Formation of lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification / Toshiyuki Suzuki in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 183-194 Titre : Formation of lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiyuki Suzuki, Auteur ; Hidetaka Iwai, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 183-194 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Emulsion  'Cristal  liquide'  'Gel  lipide'  Céramide  Emulsification  'Structure  lamellaire' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Recently developed emulsion technologies for the formation of fine emulsions, lipid emulsions and clear gels by liquid crystal emulsification were reviewed. As a basic information on liquid crystal emulsification, the structures and characteristic behaviours of lyotropic liquid crystals were summarized. Formation of a liquid crystalline phase was often seen in emulsions and biological systems. The significance of liquid crystal formation during emulsification was analysed by comparing the states and stabilities of emulsions prepared by different processes. Then uses of liquid crystals for formation of the characteristic emulsions and gels were also discussed. In liquid crystal emulsification, an oil phase is dispersed directly into the lamellar liquid-crystalline phase composed of surfactant, glycerol and water to prepare a gel-like oil-in-liquid crystal emulsion. This is followed by dilution with the remaining water to produce an emulsion. From the phase behaviour during emulsification and analysis of the local motion of the liquid crystal membrane by fluorometry, it was confirmed that the interaction between surfactant and a polyol molecule such as glycerol promotes hydrogen bonding and enhances the strength of the lamellar liquid crystal membranes, which results in the formation of oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions. The interaction between the liquid crystal and oil was analysed from the changes in molecular motion of the membrane at the oil-liquid crystal interface using the spin label technique of electron spin resonance (ESR). The fluidity of the liquid crystal membrane did not change when oil was added, and therefore oil-in-liquid crystal emulsions of various oils were prepared by the identical process. This lack of dependence of the liquid crystal membrane on oil results in the unique properties of liquid crystal emulsification, which can be used for oils of various polarity and different molecular constituents. When a self-organizing artificial stratum corneum lipid containing pseudo-ceramide was used as a principal component of the oil, a multilamellar emulsion of concentric lamellar structure was formed. The multilamellar emulsion supplements the physiological function of stratum corneum by the identical mechanism as natural intercellular lipids. High-pressure treatment of the lipid emulsion produced a gel-like emulsion crystal, in which the homogeneous nanoemulsion droplets were arranged in a hexagonal array. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10442 [article]

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Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics / Akio Kashimoto in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 3 (07-08-09/2004) . - p. 183-187 Titre : Soft press : the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Akio Kashimoto, Auteur ; Yoshimune Nonomura, Auteur ; Hajime Hotta, Auteur ; Toshiyuki Suzuki, Auteur ; Yohei Kaneko, Auteur ; Kazuhiro Iitaka, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 183-187 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Poudre  'Moulage  pression'  Liant  'Lauroyl  taurate  de  calcium'  'Polymère  contact' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra-low pressure molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named soft press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: (i) mixing the binder dispersion; (ii) soft compression; and (iii) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using soft press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30 wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation of a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10473 [article]

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