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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panierAn integrated approach to optimizing skin delivery of cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives / Steven Abbott in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 3 (06/2012)
Titre : An integrated approach to optimizing skin delivery of cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Steven Abbott, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 217-222 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption cutanée
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Perméation
SolubilitéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The academic literature on skin delivery provides countless examples of scientific insights into specific aspects of the overall process. For the practical formulator, however, it is difficult to know how to combine such insights in a way that fits into the realities of commercial formulations. In this study, five key principles are combined into an integrated approach that can be applied to real-world formulations. Given the complexities of skin science, the integrated approach cannot be expected to be highly precise. Instead, it is intended as a way for a formulation team to balance the many conflicting issues. The predictions are sufficiently specific to be examined by those with the appropriate analytical resources and data on formulation efficacy. It is hoped that such challenges will allow the approach to be refined for the future. Note de contenu : - Ideal solubility
- Solubility and partition
- Diffusion
- Multiple ingredients
- Finite dose
- The integrated approach
- The basics
- The fate of the formulation on the skinDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00710.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00710.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15030
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Titre : The location of the thioglycolic acid molecules in intrafibrillar unordered areas of the human hair keratin structure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Y. F. Zabashta, Auteur ; A. V. Kasprova, Auteur ; S. P. Senchurov, Auteur ; Y. E. Grabovskii, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 223-225 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide thioglycolique
Diffractométrie de rayons X
Kératines -- Structure
Permanente (coiffure)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It has been established after conducting an X-ray diffraction study of the structure of hair treated with the thioglycolic acid solution that the preferable location of thioglycolic acid molecules should be the intrafibrillar unordered areas. Based on this fact it has been concluded that the redistribution of disulphide bonds of hair occurs mainly in the mentioned above areas when treated with thioglycolic acid solution. DOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00707.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00707.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15031
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Titre : Development and application of a HPLC method for eight sunscreen agents in suncare products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : L. M. Peruchi, Auteur ; S. Rath, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 226-233 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie en phase liquide à hautes performances
Cosmétiques
Produits antisolairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This work describes the development, validation and application of a simple and fast high-performance liquid chromatography-with diode array dectection (HPLC-DAD) method for the determination of eight sunscreen agents: benzophenone-3, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate (used in two isomeric forms), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA in sunscreen formulations. The separation of the eight sunscreen compounds was achieved using an ACE C18 column (250 × 4.6 mm, 5 μm), with a column temperature 20°C, and a mobile phase of 88 : 12 (v/v) methanol-water with isocratic elution. Column temperature strongly influences the retention time and resolution of the compounds. The flow rate was 1.0 mL min−1 and quantitation was performed by external calibration at the maximum wavelength of each compound. The sample preparation was simple and consisted basically of sample dilution with methanol, centrifugation and filtration in syringe filters before quantitation. Total run time was 18 min. The method was validated according to the parameters: linear range, linearity, selectivity, intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy. Ten samples of sunscreen emulsions commercially available in Brazil (SPF 30) from different manufacturers were analysed using the proposed method. The number of the sunscreen agents varied between one and five in a single sample. The concentrations of all compounds were in the range of 0.9–10% (w/w) and were in accordance with the current Brazilian legislation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Equipment - Standards and reagents - Standard solutions - Method validation - Samples
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Chromatography - Validation - Sample analysisDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00703.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00703.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15032
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Titre : Inhibition of propionibacterium acnes lipase by extracts of indian medicinal plants Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : V. Patil, Auteur ; A. Bandivadekar, Auteur ; D. Debjani, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 234-239 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Bactéries propioniques
Concentration minimale bactéricide
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- InflammationIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Lipases play an important role in pathogenesis of acne by hydrolysing sebum triglycerides and releasing irritating free fatty acids in the pilosebaceous follicles. Lipase is a strong chemotactic and proinflammatory antigen. Therefore, lipase has generated a high interest as a pharmacological target for antiacne drugs. The aim of this study was to identify inhibitory effects of plant extracts on the lipase activity of Propionibacterium acnes. Colorimetric microassay was used to determine lipase activity. Extracts from Terminalia chebula and Embelia ribes showed lower IC50 value (1 μg mL−1) for lipase inhibition as compared to Vitex negundo and Picrorhiza kurroa (19 and 47 μg mL−1, respectively). The active component responsible for lipase inhibition was isolated. This study reports for the first time the novel antilipase activity of chebulagic acid (IC50: 60 μmol L−1) with minimum inhibitory concentration value of 12.5 μg mL−1 against P. acnes. The inhibitory potential of plant extracts was further confirmed by plate assay. The organism was grown in the presence of subinhibitory concentrations of extracts from P. kurroa, V. negundo, T. chebula, E. ribes and antibiotics such as clindamycin and tetracycline. Extract from T. chebula showed significant inhibition of lipase activity and number of P. acnes. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant material - Reagents and chemicals - Evaluation of antimicrobial activity by cup plate diffusion method - Determination of minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) and minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values - Evaluation of lipase activity by colorimetric microassay - Determination of antilipase activity of plant extracts by plate assay method - Determinationof viable count by spread plate method - Extraction of chebulagic acid by preparative high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC)
- RESULTS : Antipropionibacterium assay by agar cup diffusion, MIC and MBC - Isolation of chebulagic acid - Inhibition of lipase activityDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00706.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00706.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15033
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Titre : Photostabilization of ascorbic acid with citric acid, tartaric acid and boric acid in cream formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. Ahmad, Auteur ; M. Ali Sheraz, Auteur ; S. Ahmed, Auteur ; Z. Shad, Auteur ; F. H. M. Vaid, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 240-245 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cinétique chimique
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Photodétérioration
Stabilisants (chimie)
Vitamine CIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This study involves the evaluation of the effect of certain stabilizers, that is, citric acid (CT), tartaric acid (TA) and boric acid (BA) on the degradation of ascorbic acid (AH2) in oil-in-water cream formulations exposed to the UV light and stored in the dark. The apparent first-order rate constants (0.34–0.95 × 10−3 min−1 in light, 0.38–1.24 × 10−2 day−1 in dark) for the degradation reactions in the presence of the stabilizers have been determined. These rate constants have been used to derive the second-order rate constants (0.26–1.45 × 10−2 M−1 min−1 in light, 3.75–8.50 × 10−3 M−1 day−1 in dark) for the interaction of AH2 and the individual stabilizers. These stabilizers are effective in causing the inhibition of the rate of degradation of AH2 both in the light and in the dark. The inhibitory effect of the stabilizers is in the order of CT > TA > BA. The rate of degradation of AH2 in the presence of these stabilizers in the light is about 120 times higher than that in the dark. This could be explained on the basis of the deactivation of AH2-excited triplet state by CT and TA and by the inhibition of AH2 degradation through complex formation with BA. AH2 leads to the formation of dehydroascorbic acid (A) by chemical and photooxidation in cream formulations. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of cream formulations - pH measurements - Spectral measurements - Light intensity measurements - Photolysis of cream formulations - Thin-layer chromatography (TLC) of photolysed creams - Assay of ascorbic acid in creams
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Products of ascorbic acid photodegradation - Spectral changes in photodegraded creams - Assay of ascorbic acid in creams - Kinetics of photodegradation - Effect of stabilizers - Statistical evaluation of stabilizers and concentration - Degradation of AH2 in presence of stabilizers in the dark - Mode of interactionDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00708.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00708.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15034
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Titre : Spectrofluorescence of skin and hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Roger L. McMullen, Auteur ; S. Chen, Auteur ; David J. Moore, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 246-256 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux
Peau
Spectroscopie de fluorescenceTags : 'Spectroscopie fluorecence' Peau Cheveux Ovins Caprins Bovins Homme Chromophore 'Composés fluorescent peau' 'Matrice excitation-émission' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : There are numerous chromophores present throughout the strata of human skin, which present many challenges and opportunities to probe molecular events. Fluorescence spectroscopy is principally employed to identify important biochemical components of the skin including endogenous tryptophan, tyrosine, pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links, collagenase-digestible collagen cross-links, NADH, etc. Over the last 15 years, many advances in instrument technology have been introduced allowing for much faster data acquisition with spectrofluorometers. As a result, a series of spectrofluorescence emission scans can be generated for a range of excitation wavelengths, or vice versa (excitation scans for a range of emission wavelengths), quickly to generate excitation–emission matrices. In this work, we constructed an endogenous fingerprint of fluorescent compounds present in skin, hair and nail tissues by employing a range of excitation wavelengths from 270 to 450 nm with a resolution of 2 nm. As a result, we generated surface plots of fluorescence emission as a function of excitation and emission wavelengths. From these data, we identified the predominant fluorescent chromophores in each tissue. We examined several sources of skin including in vivo human and ex vivo pig, sheep, goat and cow skin. We also analysed various types of mature hair characterized by the degree of melanin content. These analyses provided us with a fundamental understanding of the effects of melanin distribution in hair fibres and aided with the identification of fluorophores present in hair. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Skin and nail - Hair - Instrumentation
- RESULTS : Ex vivo pig skin - Ex vivo sheep, goat and cow skin - In vivo human skin - In vivo human nail - Ex vivo human hairDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00709.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00709.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15035
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Titre : In vivo measurement of the surface energy of human fingernail plates Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Murdan, Auteur ; C. Poojary, Auteur ; D. R. Patel, Auteur ; J. Fernandes, Auteur ; A. Haman, Auteur ; P. S. Saundh, Auteur ; Z. Sheik, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 257-262 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Abrasion
Energie de surface
Etude in vivo
Hydratation
Ongles
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The surface energy of the human nail plate is expected to influence the adhesion of microorganisms (and subsequent colonization and infections) as well as that of medicines (and subsequent drug permeation) and of cosmetics. The aim of the study was therefore to measure the surface energy of nail plates in vivo. The surface energy of healthy human fingernails (untreated, hydrated and abraded) and of hoof membranes (often used as a model for the nail plate) was estimated from contact angle measurements of liquids (water, formamide, diiodomethane and glycerol) on the nail plate and subsequent computation using the Lifshitz–van der Waals/acid–base (LW-AB) approach. The surface energy of untreated fingernail plates was found to be 34 mJ m?2. Most of this total energy was from the apolar Lifshitz–van der Waals component. When the polar component of the surface energy was analysed, the electron donor component was considerably larger than the electron acceptor one. Hydrating the nail plate had no significant influence on the surface energy. In contrast, abrasion caused a small, but statistically significant increase in the apolar surface energy component. The surface energy of bovine hoof membrane was similar to that of the fingernail plate. We conclude that the human fingernail plate is a low-energy surface and that bovine hoof membranes may be used as a substitute for the nail plate in certain experiments. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Measurement - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Conctact angles of liquid drops on human fingernail plate in vivo - Influence of nail plate hydration and abrasion on contact angles - Surface energy of fingernail plates - Influence of hydration and abrasion on nail plate surface energy - Surface energy of hoof membranesDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00711.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00711.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15036
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Titre : An effective night slimming topical treatment Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : E. Berardesca, Auteur ; E. Abril, Auteur ; C. Rona, Auteur ; R. Vesnaver, Auteur ; A. Cenni, Auteur ; M. Oliva, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 263-272 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Amincissants
Echographie
Etude in vivo
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The surface energy of the human nail plate is expected to influence the adhesion of microorganisms (and subsequent colonization and infections) as well as that of medicines (and subsequent drug permeation) and of cosmetics. The aim of the study was therefore to measure the surface energy of nail plates in vivo. The surface energy of healthy human fingernails (untreated, hydrated and abraded) and of hoof membranes (often used as a model for the nail plate) was estimated from contact angle measurements of liquids (water, formamide, diiodomethane and glycerol) on the nail plate and subsequent computation using the Lifshitz–van der Waals/acid–base (LW-AB) approach. The surface energy of untreated fingernail plates was found to be 34 mJ m−2. Most of this total energy was from the apolar Lifshitz–van der Waals component. When the polar component of the surface energy was analysed, the electron donor component was considerably larger than the electron acceptor one. Hydrating the nail plate had no significant influence on the surface energy. In contrast, abrasion caused a small, but statistically significant increase in the apolar surface energy component. The surface energy of bovine hoof membrane was similar to that of the fingernail plate. We conclude that the human fingernail plate is a low-energy surface and that bovine hoof membranes may be used as a substitute for the nail plate in certain experiments. Note de contenu : - Study design
- Study procedure
- Statistical analysis
- Statistical methodologyDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00712.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00712.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15037
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Titre : Coenzyme Q10 enhances dermal elastin expression, inhibits IL-1α production and melanin synthesis in vitro Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : M. Zhang, Auteur ; L. Dang, Auteur ; F. Guo, Auteur ; W. Zhao, Auteur ; R. Zhao, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 273-279 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Anti tyrosinase
Antiâge
Antioxydants
Elastine
Mélanine
PeauIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a well-known antioxidant and has been used in many skincare products for anti-ageing purpose. However, the molecular mechanisms of CoQ10 function in skin cells are not fully understood. In this paper, we compared the effects of CoQ10 on primary human dermal fibroblasts from three individuals, including adult. We demonstrated that CoQ10 treatment promoted proliferation of fibroblasts, increased type IV collagen expression and reduced UVR-induced matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) level in embryonic and adult cells. In addition, CoQ10 treatment increased elastin gene expression in cultured fibroblasts and significantly decreased UVR-induced IL-1α production in HaCat cells. Taken together, CoQ10 presented anti-ageing benefits against intrinsic ageing as well as photo damage. Interestingly, CoQ10 was able to inhibit tyrosinase activity, resulting in reduced melanin content in B16 cells. Thus, CoQ10 may have potential depigmentation effects for skincare. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Cell culture - Cell proliferation assay - RNA extraction and QPCR - CoQ10 emulsion- UV irradiation - Intracellular ROS assay - Enzyme linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) - Melanin assay, tyrosinase activity measurement and DOPA staining - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : CoQ10 han anti-ageing effects against multiple ageing processes - CoQ10 protects cell from UV irradiation induced damage - CoQ10 reduces melanin synthesisDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00713.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00713.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15038
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Titre : Moisturizing effect of alcohol-based hand rub containing okra polysaccharide Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mayuree Kanlayavattanakul, Auteur ; C. Rodchuea, Auteur ; Nattaya Lourith, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 280-283 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcool
Cosmétiques
Désinfectants
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PolysaccharidesLes polysaccharides (parfois appelés glycanes, polyosides, polyholosides ou glucides complexes) sont des polymères constitués de plusieurs oses liés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques.
Les polyosides les plus répandus du règne végétal sont la cellulose et l’amidon, tous deux polymères du glucose.
De nombreux exopolysaccharides (métabolites excrétés par des microbes, champignons, vers (mucus) du ver de terre) jouent un rôle majeur - à échelle moléculaire - dans la formation, qualité et conservation des sols, de l'humus, des agrégats formant les sols et de divers composés "argile-exopolysaccharide" et composites "organo-minéraux"(ex : xanthane, dextrane, le rhamsane, succinoglycanes...).
De nombreux polyosides sont utilisés comme des additifs alimentaires sous forme de fibre (inuline) ou de gomme naturelle.
Ce sont des polymères formés d'un certain nombre d'oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : -[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1). On distingue deux catégories de polysaccharides : Les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes ; les hétéropolysaccharides (ou hétéroglycanes) formés de différents monosaccharides : hémicelluloses.
Les constituants participant à la construction des polysaccharides peuvent être très divers : hexoses, pentoses, anhydrohexoses, éthers d'oses et esters sulfuriques.
Selon l'architecture de leur chaîne, les polysaccharides peuvent être : linéaires : cellulose ; ramifiés : gomme arabique, amylopectine, dextrane, hémicellulose et mixtes : amidon.
Produits hydratantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A natural, moisturizing alcohol-based hand rub (ABHR) containing okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) polysaccharide was formulated to reduce the dryness caused by traditional hand-cleansing products. The ABHR developed also reduced infectious disease transmission. Preliminary evaluations of the stable natural hand hygiene preparations were conducted to determine preference and short-term moisturizing efficacy in volunteers. Formulations contained varying amounts of gelling agent (0.5% and 0.3% w/v). Accelerated stability testing using a centrifugation assay and six heating/cooling cycles of the ABHR bases were performed. Then, okra polysaccharide (5%, 7%, 10% and 15% w/w) was incorporated into the base, and stability tests were repeated. The moisturizing okra polysaccharide was compatible with the formulations at all concentrations. All of the formulated ABHRs were stable. Sensory evaluation was conducted in 36 volunteers. The two most preferred okra ABHRs were patch-tested in 12 volunteers; results indicated none of the preparations caused irritation. Efficacy of the most preferred moisturizing ABHR containing 0.3% gelling agent and 10% (w/v) okra extract was determined. Short-term moisturizing efficacy of a single application was examined in 20 volunteers. The okra ABHR hydrated skin significantly better than a control ABHR (P < 0.005) at 30 min after application. Skin moisture was retained for 210 min of the observation period. Thus, the ABHR product containing moisturizing okra is safe, efficacious and possesses desirable properties. The formulation can be applied every 3 h for good hand hygiene with moisturizing efficacy. Note de contenu : - Formulation
- Stability and preference tests
- Moisturizing efficacy evaluation
- Data analysisDOI : 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00715.x En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00715.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=15039
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