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Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! / Alexander T. Wagner in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Amino acid-based surfactants : more than just 'natural' ! Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander T. Wagner, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 92-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides aminés Les acides aminés (ou aminoacides) sont une classe de composés chimiques possédant deux groupes fonctionnels : à la fois un groupe carboxyle –COOH et un groupe amine –NH2. Parmi ceux-ci, les acides α-aminés se définissent par le fait que leur groupe amine est lié à l'atome de carbone adjacent au groupe acide carboxylique (le carbone α), ce qui leur confère la structure générique H2N–CHR–COOH, où R représente la chaîne latérale, qui identifie l'acide α-aminé.
Les acides α-aminés jouent un rôle fondamental en biochimie comme constituants élémentaires des protéines : ils polymérisent en formant des liaisons peptidiques qui aboutissent à de longues chaînes macromoléculaires appelées peptides.
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Huiles et graisses
Hygiène
Produits nettoyants
shampooings
Surfactants
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Amino acids are key components of the human metabolism : Glutamate, for instance, is the most important substance in the brain to transport information from one nerve cell to another. It is a neurotransmitter.
Additionally, amino acids can be linked together in different combinations to create shorter (peptides) and longer (proteins) chains. Both fulfil a variety of different vital functions in the human body : Collagen, for instance, is the most frequently occurring protein in the human body. It is composed of three intertwined chains (triple helix) to lend structure to connective tissue. Simply for spatial arrangement reasons in this protein the smallest amino acid, glycine, is the main component.
The water solubility of amino acids also makes them an attractive choice for the hydrophilic part of surfactants. When an amino acid is linked with a triglyceridederived fatty acid (e. g. from coconut oil), surfactants (N-acyl derivatives, "amino acid surfactants") exclusively based on natural components are created. When the amino acid is produced via a fermentation process starting from glucose or its derivatives, the surfactants even are completely composed of renewable raw materials (e. g. cocoyl glutamate). Those surfactants are an ideal choice for natural cosmetic applications.
Contrary to expectations, the development of amino acid surfactants is not a result of the current trend towards ‘green’ surfactants. The first examples were patented in the 1930s. Already at that time one candidate, a derivative of sarcosine, was introduced to the market. The original idea behind this development was to create surfactants alternative to soaps to overcome their drawbacks (precipitation in pH-neutral aqueous solutions, sensitivity to water hardness). The 'trick' is to insert a suitable spacer between the hydrophobic part and the carboxylate group. By the way, in the 1930s also another solution was found : To introduce a sulfo-group and to "block" or replace the carboxylic group of fatty acids (e. g. acyl isethionates and fatty alcohol sulfates).
The attractiveness of amino acid surfactants for cosmetic applications is additionally based on two other aspects : At first, they are proven mild and well foaming surfactants. Secondly, they are excellent biodegradable. The linkage between the hydrophobic and the hydrophilic part of the surfactant is an amide bond. This type of bondage is frequently ‘used’ by nature (e.g. in peptides and proteins) and can therefore easily be cleaved by nature´s enzymes.Note de contenu : - Acyl sarcosinates and acyl glycinates : unequal siblings
- Acyl glutamates : completely sustainable
- The principle 'thickening without thickeners'
- Fig. 1 : Examples for natural amino acids in aqueous solutions (pH 7) : a) Glutamate, b) Glycine, c) Sarcosine
- Fig. 2 : a) Surfactants based on N-lauroyl amino acids (amino acid surfactants), R : Amino acid specific rest, R* : H for glutamates and glycinates, CH3 for sarcosinates b) Soap (laurate)
- Fig. 3 : Two amino acid surfactants: Hydrogen bonds (hashed line) can be created only in acyl glycinates
- Fig. 4 : Radical change of micellar structures: Thickening by lowering the pH
- Fig. 5 : Anionic and neutral form of an amino acid surfactant: Effective spatial arrangement within micelles. For the position of the “border” between hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts see literature
- Fig. 6 : Schematic spatial arrangement of acyl glutamates within micelles
- Fig. 7 : Thickening by lowering the pH
- Table 1 : PEG-free luxurious facial cleansing oil
- Table 2 : Very mild and creamy foaming body shampoo
- Table 3 : Shower gel for natural cosmeticsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lAbknzP3EERz6-Qf39MDKT2xg6j5Abgp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33958
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 92-96[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21621 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible An advanced method for the preparation of erucyl dimethyl amidopropyl betaine and acid solution properties / Hongsheng Lu in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 49, N° 6 (11-12/2012)
[article]
Titre : An advanced method for the preparation of erucyl dimethyl amidopropyl betaine and acid solution properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hongsheng Lu, Auteur ; Xuan Zhang, Auteur ; Hongping Quan, Auteur ; Shanshan Dai, Auteur ; Tailang Zhang, Auteur ; Zhiyu Huang, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 445-450 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Erucylamidopropyle bétaïne
Surfactants
ViscoélasticitéIndex. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : In this paper, an improved method for the preparation of erucyl dimethyl amidopropyl betaine (EDAB) was provided. The synthesis conditions were investigated. N,N-dimethyl-N’-erucyl-1,3-propylenediamine was synthesized by the reaction of erucic acid with N,N-dimethyl-1,3-propylenediamine at 170°C for 7 h, and then the intermediate was reacted with sodium chloroacetate in the mixture of methanol and water (3:7 v/v) at 60°C. The product was obtained after 6 h. The compounds were confirmed by IR and 1H-NMR. The properties of EDAB acid solution were also studied. The results indicated that viscosity of acid solution increased with decreasing hydrochloric acid concentration and was mainly controlled by surfactant concentration and temperature. The viscosity of an acid solution was maximum when the concentration of hydrochloric acid was at 15 wt%. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Materials - Synthesis routes of EDAB - Synthesis of N,N-dimethylerucylamine - Synthesis of N,N-dimethylerucylamine hydrochloride - Synthesis of EDAB - Viscosity measurement of viscoelastic surfactant acid solution
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Effect of reaction temperature - Effect of reaction materials Ratio - Effect of alcohol-water system - Effect of temperature and time on quanterization reaction - Effect of temperature on live acid viscosity - Effect of EDAB concentration on live acid viscosity - Effect of hydrochloric acid concentration of viscosity of acid solution - Effect of temperature on viscosity of acid solutionDOI : 10.3139/113.110215 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=16530
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 14334 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible An efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of CiEj/n-octane/water emulsions / Maxime Nollet in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 2 (04/2019)
[article]
Titre : An efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance of surfactants using the phase inversion temperature deviation of CiEj/n-octane/water emulsions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maxime Nollet, Auteur ; H. Boulghobra, Auteur ; E. Calligaro, Auteur ; Jean-David Rodier, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 99-108 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Equilibre hydrophile-lipophile
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Inversion de phase (chimie)
Surfactants
TempératureIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectif : Le but de cette étude était de développer une méthode rapide et efficace pour déterminer le nombre Hydrophiles-Lipophiles Balance (HLB) d'agents tensioactifs cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques.
- Méthodes : Cette méthode est basée sur le déplacement de la température d'inversion de phase induite par l'addition du composé à tester par rapport à la température d'inversion de phase d'un système de référence, comprenant un tensioactif éthoxylé. Cette méthode s'appelle PIT-déviation.
- Résultats : Trois courbes d'étalonnage sont établies avec trois tensioactifs éthoxylés de référence. Ces courbes d'étalonnage permettent d'évaluer le comportement interfacial de certains produits chimiques. Plus particulièrement, ces courbes permettent de déterminer facilement le HLB de tensioactif.
- Conclusion : Dans cette étude, une méthode rapide et précise a été développée pour déterminer le Hydrophilet-Lipophile Balance (HLB) de produits chimiques amphiphiles. Cette nouvelle méthode peut être appliquée pour établir un HLB de tous les ingrédients amphiphiles. Les composés dont la PIT-deviation est proche de zéro sont également abordés.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Conventional HLB number measurement - Synthesis of polyoxyethylene alkyl ether (C1E4) - PIT deviation measurement of C1E4 reference systems
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS : Measurement of HLB number of commercial surfactants - PIT deviation as an extensive value - Correlation between PIT deviation and HLB number - Special case : PIT-deviation is close to zeroDOI : 10.1111/ics.12516 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12516 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32431
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20895 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Analysis of surfactants by thin-layer chromatography : a review / S. A. Bhawani in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 47, N° 2/2010 (03-04/2010)
[article]
Titre : Analysis of surfactants by thin-layer chromatography : a review Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. A. Bhawani, Auteur ; O. Sulaiman, Auteur ; R. Hashim, Auteur ; M. N. Mohamad Ibrahim, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 73-80 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chromatographie sur couches minces
SurfactantsIndex. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Thin-layer chromatographic analysis of surfactants is presented in this review. Various chromatographic systems useful for the identification, separation and quantification of surfactants are reported. New approaches in thin-layer chromatography enable analysts to separate and determine surfactants in complex mixtures (in various environmental samples). Thin-layer chromatographic methods are mainly used for the separation of surfactants either in the separation of different classes or separation of different groups within the same class. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8868
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012052 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Analysis of the influence of alkyl polyglycoside surfactant and cosolvent structure on interfacial tension in aqueous formulations versus n-octane / S. Iglauer in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 47, N° 2/2010 (03-04/2010)
[article]
Titre : Analysis of the influence of alkyl polyglycoside surfactant and cosolvent structure on interfacial tension in aqueous formulations versus n-octane Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Iglauer, Auteur ; Y. Wu, Auteur ; P. Shuler, Auteur ; Y. Tang, Auteur ; W. A. Goddard, Auteur Année de publication : 2010 Article en page(s) : p. 87-97 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alkyl polyglycosides
solvants
Surfactants
Tension superficielleIndex. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : We studied the influence of molecular structural elements of alkyl polyglycoside (APG) surfactants on the interfacial tension (IFT) in aqueous formulations against n-octane. This included the analysis of alkyl and aryl chain length, type and number of sugar-ring head, anomers, addition of cosolvents and effect of salt addition. We found that longer alkyl or aryl chains lead to lower IFT, consistent with data recorded for commercial (mixed) APGs. APGs with only one sugar-ring head had lower IFT than their analog maltose derivates (two-ring head). Intriguingly the stereochemistry of the sugar head (i.e. galactose versus glucose) and the type of anomer showed a significant influence on IFT. The n-octyl-α-D-glucopyranoside anomer had a lower IFT than the corresponding β-anomer. 1-octanol and 1-hexanol were efficient cosolvents consistent with the datasets observed for commercial APGs. Salt addition reduced IFT. Functional groups (aldehyde, amide-methoxy) integrated into the molecular architecture of the APG skeleton were efficient in terms of significantly reducing IFT, suggesting a strategy for the molecular design of advanced APG surfactants. We discuss the results in the context of the hydrophilic-lipophilic deviation (HLD) concept, which we modified so that IFT values are discussed instead of phase behavior. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=8870
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 012052 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Anionic surfactant sulfate dodecyl sodium (SDS)-induced thermodynamics and conformational changes of collagen by ultrasensitive microcalorimetry / Jie Zhang in JOURNAL OF LEATHER SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING, Vol. 3 (Année 2021)
PermalinkAnionic surfactants / Emmie Helena Lucassen-Reynders / New York [United States] : Marcel Dekker, Inc. (1981)
PermalinkAOT-vesicles produced at the oil-water interface / Evelin A. Kubatta in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 48, N° 3/2011 (05/2011)
PermalinkPermalinkApplication of microcalorimetry to the study of interactions in coating formulations / Charles Kan in JOURNAL OF COATINGS TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH, Vol. 8, N° 1 (01/2011)
PermalinkApplication of nonionic gemini aliphatic polyurethane surfactant for improving the performance of vegetable tanned leather / Shuangquan Lai in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIV, N° 11 (11/2019)
PermalinkApplication of surfactants in leather making with nano-tech / Ma Jianzhong in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 89, N° 2 (03-04/2005)
PermalinkAqueous scouring milk for cleaning hard surfaces with a proportion of an anionic surfactant based on calcium and magnesium salts of linear alkylbenzene acid / Klaus Henning in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 10 (10/2021)
PermalinkAqueous solution properties, biodegradability, and antimicrobial activity of some alkylpolyglycosides surfactants / M. M. A. El-Sukkary in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 46, N° 5/2009 (09-10/2009)
PermalinkArtificial intelligence for electrical percolation of AOT-based microemulsions prediction / Antonio Cid in TENSIDE, SURFACTANTS, DETERGENTS, Vol. 48, N° 6 (11-12/2011)
PermalinkAssuring parts cleanliness, increasing economic efficiency in INTERNATIONAL SURFACE TECHNOLOGY (IST), Vol. 7, N° 2 (2014)
PermalinkAuxiliaries for the leather industry / Zschimmer & Schwarz (Max-Schwarz-Straße 3-5, Lahnstein, Germany) / Lahnstein [Germany] : Zschimmer & Schwarz (2012)
PermalinkBeneficial ingredients for natural formulations / Jennifer Allen in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 3 (06/2013)
PermalinkBenefit of coconut-based hair oil via hair porosity quantification / Vaibhav Kaushik in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)
PermalinkBenefits of the surfactant along the value chain / Christoph Söffing in POLYMERS PAINT COLOUR JOURNAL - PPCJ, Vol. 204, N° 4603 (12/2014)
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