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New methods for testing skin protection against Noxae using the Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) / Katinka Jung in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 15, N° 4 (10-11-12/2012)
[article]
Titre : New methods for testing skin protection against Noxae using the Bovine Udder Skin (BUS) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Katinka Jung, Auteur ; Wolfgang F. Pittermann, Auteur ; Marietta Seifert, Auteur ; Thomas Herrling, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 265-270 Note générale : Biobliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bovins
Etude in vivo
Expérimentation animale
Mamelle
Peau -- Inflammation
Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie
Protection cutanée
Radicaux libres (chimie)
Spectroscopie de résonance paramagnétique électronique
Tests de toxicité
Toxicologie cellulaireIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Quantitative and qualitative determination of skin irritation and skin protection through market formulations using an in vitro skin model, the perfused bovine udder (BUS) and different analytical methods, was the objective of the present research. Various noxae that are percutaneously absorbed cause skin irritation and damage through different mechanisms. Cell vitality, signs of inflammation, and the presence of inducible free radicals among the analytical parameters that enable quantification of skin damage. In this study cytotoxic effects were determined using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, and tissue levels of the pre-inflammatory mediator prostaglandin E2 in treated/untreated whole skin biopsies were assessed using an enzyme immunoassay. The inducibility of free radicals was determined by electron resonance spectroscopy techniques. Noxae (standardized chemicals and products) like detergents, coolants, toluene, and n-octane caused reduced cell vitality and metabolic activity, inflammation as evidenced by the presence of prostaglandins, and enhanced values in the inducible free radical status in in vitro bovine udder skin. The effect of the noxae is dose-dependent and permeation time-dependent, allowing construction of dose-effect curves. The induced cytotoxicity and free radical status show a positive correlation, while the inflammatory actions analyzed by the prostaglandin E2 tissue concentration do not.
As a consequence, the skin compatibility of noxae and performance of skin protection formulations can be evaluated by the measurement of different cell physiological and biophysical parameters at the very early stages of skin damage.Note de contenu : - Chemicals
- Skin protective formulation A
- Skin protective formulation B
- BUS model
- UV irradiation
- ESR spectrometer
- Determination of the radical skin status factor RSFPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=16885
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 15, N° 4 (10-11-12/2012) . - p. 265-270[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 14431 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra‐individual single-blind regression study / T. Sadowski in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)
[article]
Titre : Objective and subjective reduction of cellulite volume using a localized vibrational massage device in a 24-week randomized intra‐individual single-blind regression study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : T. Sadowski, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Auteur ; S. Sukopp, Auteur ; C. Gordon, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 277-288 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse d'image L'analyse d'image est la reconnaissance des éléments contenus dans l'image. Il ne faut pas confondre analyse (décomposition en éléments) et traitement (action sur les composantes) de l'image.
Cellulite
Etude in vivo
Massage vibratoire
ProfilométrieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cellulite occurs in females and is a common condition of altered connective tissue matrix and increased adipogenicity with visible dimples and orange-peel appearance on the skins surface. Whilst advancements in methods continue to help our understanding, attempts to correct the appearance of cellulite topically have yielded limited success. Various kinds of non-invasive body contouring methods such as whole body vibration have been reported with demonstrable visible improvements in the cellulite condition. The aim of this study was to evaluate volume reduction and improvement of the visible appearance of cellulite as judged both objectively (AEVA-HE phase-shift 3-D fringe projection, macrophotography image grading) and subjectively (questionnaires) after application of a hand-held localized vibrational device over 24-weeks. The study was conducted on 40 healthy female volunteers who were instructed how to use the device on defined areas of cellulite of the outside and rear of the thighs (iliotibial band, and over biceps femoris region respectively). The initial 12 weeks of continuous massage application of the study were followed by a 12 week phase in which volunteers were split into 2 subgroups – one for assessment of regression effects and one for continuous application effects. AEVA (skin surface volume) measurements of cellulite-related dimples correlated with questionnaires and visual image evaluation scoring, in that in the iliotibial region cellulite was significantly reduced at 12 weeks. In the regression subgroup cellulite returned to initial values soon after cessation of treatment, whereas in the continuous application subgroup, cellulite remained diminished. The effect of this device to reduce cellulite as observed in this study proves that continuous use of vibrational massage is beneficial to mitigate visible signs of cellulite. Note de contenu : - Test materials
- Volunteers
- Study exclusion criteria
- Study inclusion criteria
- Safety criteria and adverse event reporting
- Instructions prior to study commencement
- Instructions during study
- Measurement
- Data managements and statistics
- QuestionnairesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12613 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uXIfqxz76zLXKKAWaMCntL8frkEY36V3/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35275
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 277-288[article]Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy / Morgane de Tollenaere in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
[article]
Titre : Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Morgane de Tollenaere, Auteur ; Emilie Chapuis, Auteur ; Laura Lapierre, Auteur ; Marine Bracq, Auteur ; Jane Hubert, Auteur ; Carole Lambert, Auteur ; Jérome Sandré, Auteur ; Daniel Auriol, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Romain Reynaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 165-180 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Barrière cutanée
Chimie analytique
Etude in vitro
Etude in vivo
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Justification de l'allégation
Lipides
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
VetiverLe vetiver désigne un ensemble de plantes de la famille des Poaceae (Graminées). Il s'agit de plusieurs espèces du genre Chrysopogon (et anciennement placées dans le genre Vetiveria). On en connaît une douzaine d'espèces poussant dans les zones tropicales. La plus connue est Chrysopogon zizanioides qui pousse surtout sur le sous-continent indien. Deux autres espèces sont fréquemment cultivées : Chrysopogon nigritanus (Afrique australe) et Chrysopogon nemoralis (Asie du Sud-Est).
La plante se présente sous forme de grandes touffes vertes, dont la racine, se développant verticalement, peut atteindre des profondeurs allant jusqu'à trois mètres.
Usage en parfumerie : Après distillation, la racine de vétiver fournit une essence résineuse très épaisse utilisée en parfumerie. L'essence de vétiver appartient à la famille olfactive des boisés. C'est une essence à la saveur fine et complexe : boisée, aromatique, verte, quelquefois légèrement fumée. Le vétiver est principalement utilisé dans les parfums masculins, plus rarement dans les parfums féminins. Le parfumeur Guerlain crée en 1959 un parfum pour hommes nommé Vétiver, ainsi que Carven qui commercialise alors son parfum homonyme en deux versions homme et femme. Plus récemment, Dominique Ropion crée "Vétiver extraordinaire" pour les Éditions de parfum Frédéric Malle, en exploitant un procédé d'extraction qui limite les notes camphrées et permet d'utiliser l'essence à des concentrations élevées.
En parfumerie, on utilise trois variétés différentes de racines de vétiver : le vétiver Bourbon (un des plus appréciés), le vétiver Haïti et le vétiver de Java (à l'odeur légèrement plus fumée).Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.
- Method : In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.
- Results : We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.
- Conclusion : In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals and reagents - Plant extract preparation - Extract fractionation by centrifugal partition chromatography - NMR analyses and metabolite identification - In vitro lipid neosynthesis in RHE - In vitro immunofluorescence staining of CERT, dermokine and involucrin - In vitro lipid accumulation on sebocytes - In vitro Antimicrobial Lipid (AML) synthesis using sebocytes - In vitro stimulation of pre-adipocytes differentiation - Ex vivo stimulation of keratinization - Ex vivo full-skin lipids accumulation in mature adipocytes - Clinical investigation of skin hydration and lipid conformation - Clinical investigation on sebum production in elderly volunteers - Clinical investigation on skin biomechanical property and wrinkles - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Chemical profiling of the Chrysopogon zizanioides exhausted root extract - Improvement of skin lipids involved in barrier function - Improvement of quality and quantity of lipids from sebum - Reshaping skin face by improvement of lipids synthesis from adipocytesDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12678 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GpqyZdKmUxsllJGgL4sKJVJ47Cx1MDvV/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35756
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 165-180[article]Un peptide correcteur de taches innovant / Jill Hsu in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2015)
[article]
Titre : Un peptide correcteur de taches innovant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jill Hsu, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 310-314 Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment
Dermo-cosmétologie
Etude in vivo
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Le brunissement enzymatique des fruits et des légumes est causé par la polyphénoloxydase (PPO), la principale enzyme catalysant la conversion biochimique des composés phénoliques pour produire les quinones. Ces dernières subissent une polymérisation supplémentaire pour produire des polymères insolubles, sombres appelés mélanine. Les glycyl-peptides ont été étudiés pour leur capacité à inhiber le processus de brunissement des pommes et pommes de terre traitées à la DOPA. L'objectif étant de développer un dérivé de la glycine qui soit sûr, efficace, utilisable, stable et pratique. Note de contenu : - La pigmentation de la peau
- La pigmentation de la peau avec un mécanisme d'inhibition à 5 niveaux
- Diminution de la mélanine : étude ex vivo (MelanoDerm)
- Efficacité clinique : étude in vivo sur le teint
- Efficacité clinique : réduction in vivo des taches de vieillesse
- Un excellent profil de sécurité et de stabilitéEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PKO-hx0c9SEA-fmrtjF5_4rebRxTD_1a/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25171
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° Hors série (12/2015) . - p. 310-314[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17694 - Périodique Bureau N° 129 Documentaires Disponible Peptide inspired by sea anemone venom comforts sensitive skin / Franziska Wandrey in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 1/2 (01-02/2018)
[article]
Titre : Peptide inspired by sea anemone venom comforts sensitive skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Etude in vivo
Neurocosmétique
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peptides
Sensibilité cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel neurocosmetic soothing active, a biomimetic peptide inspired by the analgesic component of sea anemone venom, immediately comforts sensitive skin after the first application. An in vitro assay showed that the peptide reduced the ac¬tivation of the TRPV1 pain receptor. To ensure improved skin uptake, the peptide was incorporated into a soft sphere carrier system based on shea butter. In clinical studies, the soothing active increased the electrical current perception threshold of the skin, which is an indicator for reduced skin reactivity and decreased skin sensitivity by reducing the response to skin irritation. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Environmental factors lead to uncomfortable skin - The molecular cause of sensitive skin - A solution for sensitive skin derived from sea anemone venom
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Whole-cell patch clamp technique - Current perception threshold measurements - Lactic acid stinging test
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Peptide derived from sea anemone inhibits TRPV1 - Single treatment with the soothing active reduces skin reactivit - Reduction of skin sensitivity by the soothing active
- FIGURES : 1.Schematic illustration of the presence of TRPV1 receptors in the skin - 2. Heteractis crispa sea anemone specimen - 3. Schematic illustration of the whole-cell patch clamp technique - 4. Inhibition of TRPV1 receptor activation by the pentapeptide - 5. Increase of the CPT after a single application of the soothing active - 6. Reduction of skin sensitivity by the soothing active measured by the lactic acid stinging testEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bTqGQXa_R2aIeHMVmBtcp2ebEYypuU6b/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30333
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 1/2 (01-02/2018) . - p. 20-24[article]Réservation
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