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On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Croûte (cuir)
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On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
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Synthesis of an amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent and its application to chrome-free leather / Luo Jianxun in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 102, N° 6 (11-12/2018)
[article]
Titre : Synthesis of an amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent and its application to chrome-free leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luo Jianxun, Auteur ; Feng Yanjuan, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 298-303 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption
Colorants
Composés amphotériques
Copolymères
Croûte (cuir)On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture
Cuirs et peaux de chèvres
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Oxazolidine
Poids moléculaires
Polymères -- Analyse
Polymères -- Synthèse
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Tanins végétaux
Tannage combinéLe tannage combiné se dit des tannages qui allient deux familles ou genre de tannage pour obtenir un résultat additionnant les qualités complémentaires des tannins mis en Å“uvre par exemple Chrome-Végétal ou Chrome-SynthétiqueIndex. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : In order to reduce the disadvantages of chrome tannage, chrome-free tannage was developped by many technologists and tanneries. However, because of the structures and charge of the tanning materials in the chrome-free tannage, the absorption rate of the chrome-free leather for anionic dyestuffs, re-tanning agents and fatliquors is lower than that of the chrome-tanned leather. Therefore, in order to improve the absorptivity of the chrome-free leather for these products, an amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent was synthesized with methyl-acrylic acid, sodium methylallyl sulfonate and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (DMDAAC) by free radical copolymerization using ammonium persulfate at 80°C for 3 hours. The molar ratio of methyl-acrylic acid, sodium methylallyl sulfonate and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride was confirmed to be 1.0/0.3/ 1.0. The structure of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent was characterized by FTIR, H-NMR, C-NMR. The charge and properties of the solution of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent were characterised. Applied results of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary on the absorption of chrome-free leather for dyestuff and fatliquor, show that it has strong auxiliary absorptive capacity and the absorptive rate of dyestuff and fatliquor is more than 96%. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES : Materials - Preparation of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agents - Application of series of the copolymers and the selection of the synthetic recipe - Molecular weight of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent and its structure determination - Test of isoelectric point (pI) of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent - Application and the optimum amount of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent on goatskin crust tanned by combination tannages
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Analysis of the optimised formulation of the copolymer - Analysis of the molecular weight and the structure optimised formulation of the copolymer and its characteristics
- Table 1 : Parameters of orthogonal experiment
- Table 2 : Formulation of Lg(3 4 copolymer reaction with methyacrylic acid, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride, sodium methylallyl sulfonate
- Table 3 : The process of dyeing of the goatskin leather tanned by combination tannages with vegetable tannins and oxazolidine
- Table 4 : The process of fatliquor of the goatskin leather tanned by combination tannages with vegetable tannins and oxazolidine
- Table 5 : Results of Lg(3 4 copolymer reaction and application
- Table 6 : Relation between the band and the relevant group of APAA
- Table 7 : Relation between the band and the relevant group of APAA
- Table 8 : Relation between the band and the relevant group of APAA
- Fig. 1 : The synthesis of the amphoteric polymer auxiliary agent
- Fig. 2 : Curve of GPC of APAA
- Fig. 3 : IR spectrum of APAA
- Fig. 4 : 1H-NMR of APAA
- Fig. 5 : 13C-NMR of APAA
- Fig. 6 : relation between zeta potential and pH of APAA
- Fig. 7 : Relationship of the uptake of dyestuff and absorptive rate of fatliquor during the dyeing and fatliquoring of the goatskin crust tanned by combination tannage with vegetable tannins and aluminium tanning agent and the dosage of APAA
- Fig. 8 : Relationship of the uptake of dyestuff and absorptive rate of fatliquor during the dying and fatliquoring of the goatskin crust tanned by combination tannage with vegetable tannins oxazolidine and the dosage of APAAEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BiwvJszgvFJ3WgL2uSOk6h_DBCwO-A9M/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31324
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 102, N° 6 (11-12/2018) . - p. 298-303[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20391 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Synthesis of ionic liquid-based amphiphilic polymer surfactant and its application in leather fatliquoring / Hao Dongyan in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 107, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
[article]
Titre : Synthesis of ionic liquid-based amphiphilic polymer surfactant and its application in leather fatliquoring Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hao Dongyan, Auteur ; Xing Zhu, Auteur ; Hao Dongyu, Auteur ; Chao Wei, Auteur ; Hu Yujie, Auteur ; Wang Xuechuan, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caractérisation
Croûte (cuir)On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques
Cuirs et peaux de moutons
Douceur (toucher)
Emulsions
Granulométrie
Liquides ioniques
Polymères -- Synthèse
Polymères amphiphiles
Surfactants -- Synthèse
Wet-white (tannage)Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : In view of the environmental pollution caused by chrome tanning in current tanning processes, the development of chrome-free ecological leather manufacturing technology is an important direction for the development of the leather industry. However, the strong negative charge of chrome-free tanned leather leads to the reduction of binding sites of most anionic dyeing and finishing materials, resulting in colour fading and poor handle of the finished leather. Therefore, this paper mainly uses Nvinylimidazole, bromodecan and dimethylaminoethyl acrylate as raw materials to synthesise a ionic liquid-based amphiphilic polymer surfactant through free radical polymerisation and quaternisation and then, uses it in the fatliquoring process of a chrome-free non-metallic tanned green leather. The structure and morphology of the fatliquored wet-white leather were studied by SEM and the ultra depth of a field microscope, and the softness and physical and mechanical properties of the fatliquored leather were tested. The results showed that the collagen fibres were loosely distributed and the gap between the collagen fibres was larger after fatliquoring,and the softness and physical and mechanical properties of the fatliquored leather were improved. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL SECTION : Materials - Methods - Characterisation
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : FTIR analysis - 1H-NMR analysis - Surface tension - Emulsion particle size test - Physical property testing of crust leather - SEM observations - Ultra depth of field microscope
- Table 1 : Fatliquoring process for sheep wet-white leather tanned by F-90
- Table 2 : Test results of physical properties of crust leatherEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lHYlywraBbreP7FKgn902_KBzii8LmAB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39065
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 107, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p.[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24024 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The impact of milling on leather properties and fatliquor distribution / Richard L. Edmonds in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC), Vol. 101, N° 6 (11-12/2017)
[article]
Titre : The impact of milling on leather properties and fatliquor distribution Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard L. Edmonds, Auteur ; Adriano Peruzzi, Auteur ; Sue M. Cooper, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 312-317 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Croûte (cuir) On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Analyse
Cuirs et peaux -- Teneur en matières grasses
Douceur (toucher)
Echantillonnage
Epaisseur -- Mesure
Fragmentation
Lipides
Produits de nourriture du cuir
Résistance à la déchirureIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Leather samples were produced With five different types of fatliquor and were treated with a standard milling process. The leathers were assessed before and after milling for strength and softness using standard rnethods and fatliquor distribution was analysed. Milling was pound to increase softness and thickness, and increased the strength of the leather for four of the five different fatliquored samples. The fatliquor distribution was determined using a novel technique where image analysis of a series of photomicrographs of cross sections stained with Sudan III/IV was carried out. It was found that
different fatliquors were distributed slightly differently in the leathers. There were peaks of fat in the grain and lower corium with much less in the upper corium. When the fatliquored crust leather was milled the overall distribution of fat through the cross section remained unchanged indicating that changes in physical properties brought about by milling were not the result of bulk fatliquor redistribution.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Leather preparation - Physical testing - Staining procedure - Microscope image analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Absolute fat content - Tear strength, thickness and softness - Redistribution of fat with mechanical actionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d5JimwdFOymORe-NiEQi18bf2LpHzaME/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29671
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGISTS & CHEMISTS (JSLTC) > Vol. 101, N° 6 (11-12/2017) . - p. 312-317[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19446 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The role of the finish in affecting leather comfort / Mortimer Greif in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TRADES' CHEMISTS, Vol. 54, N° 3 (03/1970)
[article]
Titre : The role of the finish in affecting leather comfort Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mortimer Greif, Auteur Année de publication : 1970 Article en page(s) : p. 117-126 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Absorption
Adsorption
Coefficient de diffusionUn coefficient de diffusion est une grandeur caractéristique du phénomène de diffusion de la matière. Le coefficient de diffusion mesure le rapport entre le flux molaire dû à la diffusion moléculaire, et le gradient de concentration de l'espèce chimique considérée (ou, plus généralement, de la variable d'effort entraînant cette diffusion), comme formulé par la loi de Fick.
Confort
Croûte (cuir)On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Finition
Perméation
PolymèresIndex. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Leather is a unique material, possessing unusual strength and suppleness. It is able to mould itself to the shape of the foot and is capable of expanding and contracting along with the foot as the temperature and humidity vary. It can absorb relatively large quantities of water without being characterised as wet or damp. Leather provides a level of comfort which has proven extremely difficult to duplicate.
For the most part, the aforementioned properties are independent of the finish or the finishing process. However, in the recent literature, data have been obtained which correlates comfort with water vapour permeability of a shoe upper material. It is this property which the finish affects directly.
Crust leather is an extremely permeable material, able to transmit both liquid water and water vapour. The finish is expected to confer a degree of "waterproofness" to the leather; it must help keep liquid water from permeating from outside. At the same time, the finish must be of such a nature to permit the passage of water vapour from within. In effect, the finish must act like a screen possessing a mesh size small enough to prohiba the passage of clusters of water molecules, liquid water, yet large enough to permit transfer of single molecules, water vapour.
Permeation of water or any molecular species can result in a number of ways. If the medium through which the transport occurs contains a microporous structure or cracks of finite size, permeation can occur by means of convection or capillary flow. This type of flow is not particularly temperature sensitive and the rate of flow is constant for most gases. However if the transport medium is continuous and free of cracks or imperfections, then the rate of transport is very selective and is dependent upon the mobility and the solubility of the permeating substance in the medium in question. This latter process is called thermally acti¬vated diffusion and it is this subject which will be treated in this paper.
Crust leather is a highly porous material which allows permeation through a convective or capillary flow mechanism. When finish is applied to the grain layer, it is not likely that the grain layer is completely sealed because a significant volume fraction of the finishing material is volatile. Thus, assuming the leather to be saturated with finishing materials, voids would reappear after the carrier solvent evaporated. The pore volume and the pore size would be reduced but in all likelihood they would still be large enough to permit the transmission of water vapour and possibly liquid water. However, if at some point in the finishing process, a continuous film forms on the surface of the leather, an effective barrier to liquid water is obtained. This continuous film will restrict the passage of water vapour as well.
It is conceivable that during the finishing process, a continuum of leather fibres and finish ingredients could form. This continuum would then possess similar restrictive properties to the flow of liquid water and the vapour. The important feature is this : if a continuous coating forms either within or on the surface of the leather, liquid water will not permeate. Water vapour could only pass by virtue of a thermally activated diffusion process.Note de contenu : - Permeation
- Mathematics of diffusion
- Experimental
- Mechanism of the permeation process
- The diffusion coefficient
- Sorption of polymers
- Polymer data
- Finished leather
- Table 1 : Sorption and transmission properties of some common polymersPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35675
in JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF LEATHER TRADES' CHEMISTS > Vol. 54, N° 3 (03/1970) . - p. 117-126[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 007081 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Two-stage temperature change chrome tanning : A more sustainable tanning process / Hui Zeng in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXIV, N° 5 (05/2019)
[article]
Titre : Two-stage temperature change chrome tanning : A more sustainable tanning process Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hui Zeng, Auteur ; Weixing Xu, Auteur ; Bi Shi, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 153-162 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Américain (ame) Catégories : Absorption
Caractérisation
Croûte (cuir)On entend par "cuir en croûte" des cuirs ayant subi les opérations jusqu'au tannage, à l'exclusion de toute opération de corroyage ou de finissage, mais qui, par opposition aux wet-blue ont été séchés.
Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques
Cuirs et peaux de bovins
Surfaces -- Analyse
Tannage au chrome
Température
Wet-blue (tannage)Peau tannée au chrome (le chrome donne une couleur bleue)Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Under the guidance of molecular simulation of Cr(III) species in water solution, a novel chrome tanning process, the two-stage temperature change chrome tanning, was developed. In stage I, the pickled cattle hide was first tanned by a small amount of chrome tanning agent under room temperature to obtain basic hydrothermal stability. Then, in stage II, the pre-tanned wet-blue was tanned again under a high temperature (≥ 60°C) to enhance the reactivity of Cr(III) with collagen fibers. The shrinkage temperature of crusts, the absorptivity of chrome tanning agent and fatliquoring agent, the mechanical property and surface morphology of crusts were characterized to evaluate the tanning effect. The results showed that when the dosage of chrome tanning agent in two stages was 2 wt% (tanned under room temperature) and 1 wt% (tanned under 60°C), respectively, the best performances of crust were achieved. In these conditions, the shrinkage temperature of crust was 104.6°C. The comprehensive absorptivity of chrome tanning agent reached up to 96.3%. The absorptivity of fatliquoring agent in wet-blue was 90.2%. The mechanical property and grain fineness of the crust were comparable to those of conventional chrome tanned crust with 6 wt% chrome tanning agent. As a result, an efficient and more sustainable chrome tanning process with less offer of chrome tanning agent was achieved. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and equipment - preparation of chrome tanned samples (wet-blue/crusts) - The main Cr(III) species under different temperature - Measurements and instruments
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : The states of Cr2(SO4)3 in water solution at penetration stage and combination stage of chrome tanning - Effect of tanning conditions on properties of wet-blue/crusts - Effect of tanning conditions on Ts of crusts - Effect of tanning conditions on comprehensive absorptivity of chrome tanning agent
- Effect of tanning conditions on Cr2O3 content of wet-blue - Effect of tanning conditions on mechanical property of crusts - Effect of tanning conditions on grain morphology of crusts - Effect of tanning conditions on the chrome distribution in experimental wet-blue - Further optimization of the temperature change chrome tanning technology - Effect of chrome tanning agent dosage in stage II on tanning effect of experimental wet-blue/crusts - Effect of the chrome tanning agent dosage in stage II on the properties of experimental crustsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wQIwx4fNXcMH-sJ-KpQZiW-bbAkzYMCd/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32475
in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA) > Vol. CXIV, N° 5 (05/2019) . - p. 153-162[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20910 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Typical defects of natural phospholipid fatliquors in leather industry and their solutions / Zhikun Chen in JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION (JALCA), Vol. CXVI, N° 11 (11/2021)
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