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Factors to control the alignment of surface-treated titanium dioxide powders to maximize performance of sunscreens / Shoji Takekawa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)
[article]
Titre : Factors to control the alignment of surface-treated titanium dioxide powders to maximize performance of sunscreens Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Shoji Takekawa, Auteur ; Miwa Ohara, Auteur ; Taisuke Banno, Auteur ; Kouichi Asakura, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 38-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Barrière cutanée
Cosmétiques
Dioxyde de titane
Evaluation
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Traîtements de surfaceIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Titanium dioxide powders are contained in a large class of colour cosmetics and sunscreen formulas. When they are used, the formation of a uniform functional powder layer on the skin is an important factor to show their functionality, such as aesthetic and UV protection. Attempts were made to extract the factors that affect the UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer.
- Methods : Seven kinds of surface treatments were conducted on nano-sized titanium dioxide powder to modify the surface characteristics. Dispersion samples were prepared by mixing these powders with liquids, such as mixed solutions of cyclopentasiloxane, isododecane, coconuts alkane and dimethicone using a disperser and a bead mill. The dispersions were applied using an applicator on cellulose triacetate film, polycarbonate film and polymethyl pentene film. Laser microscope observation and micro-gloss glossmeter analysis were carried out to assess the flatness of the deposited powder layers, and the UV shielding ability was evaluated using SPF analyser.
- Results : Factors whose influences on the structure and UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer being analysed were pseudo-HLB of the powders, liquids for preparing the dispersions and material of the substrates. Higher UV shielding ability was attained when powders having pseudo-HLB at around 6 were employed independent from the kinds of liquids and substrates. Flatness of the deposited layer was found to enhance the UV shielding ability of the UV-B region, while that of the UV-A region was scarcely influenced by the flatness. Employing lower surface tension liquids for preparing the dispersions and materials exhibiting lower polar components of surface free energy as substrates tended to enhance the UV shielding ability.
- Conclusion : Surface treatments conducted on the powders in this study were found to change UV shielding ability, especially UV-B shielding ability, and the relation between pseudo-HLB and UV shielding ability was scarcely influenced by the kinds of liquids. Both surface tension of liquids and the polar component of surface free energy of substrates affected the UV shielding ability. It was suggested that pseudo-HLB calculated based on chemical structure becomes useful information to choose optimum surface treatment to make uniform powder alignment independent from the surrounding environment.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Surface treatment - Preparation of dispersions and their application onto substrates - Evaluation of surface tension of liquids and surface free energy of each film - Characterization of UV shielding ability and surface structure of the applied layer
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Surface tension of mixed solutions and surface free energy of each film - Effect of surface tension of mixed solutions of D5 and ID on the UV
shielding ability - Effect of cosmetic oils for the mixed solutions on the UV shielding ability - Effect of substrates on the UV shielding ability
- Table 1 : Preparation of three types of mixed solution, II, III and IV, containing cosmetic oils, DM and CA, having the surface tension approximately at 20 mN/m, i.e. the surface tension of mixed solution of D5 and ID whose weight ratio is 0.50:0.50 (mixed solution I)
- Table 2 : Mean contact angle of water and diiodomethane on the three kinds of films, mean temperature and mean three-phase point to evaluate surface free energy of each film and the dispersive and polar components
- Table 3 : Surface free energy of CTA, PC and PMP film and the dispersive and polar components
- Table 4 : Seven treated titanium dioxide powder samples employed for the experiments
- Table 5 : 45-degree gloss value of deposited seven types of surface-treated titanium dioxide layer formed on CTA filmDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12816 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dojnru5MAVRhG8HWAghnCSv5en47h7nv/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38818
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 38-49[article]Finding hidden structures / Kamakski Christopher in EUROPEAN COATINGS JOURNAL (ECJ), N° 3 (03/2017)
[article]
Titre : Finding hidden structures : Methods of determining emulsion particle morphology reviewed Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kamakski Christopher, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 84-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse mécanique dynamique
Analyse spectrale
Analyse thermique
Caractérisation
Core-Shell
Emulsions
Microscopie
Morphologie (matériaux)
Polyacrylates
Polyuréthanes
Résonance magnétique nucléaire
Revêtements en phase aqueuse -- Additifs:Peinture en phase aqueuse -- AdditifsIndex. décimale : 667.9 Revêtements et enduits Résumé : The use of emulsions with heterogeneous polymer particles can greatly enhance water-borne coating performance. Techniques range from incorporating inorganic nanoparticles to combining similar polymers. The use of various characterisation methods for systematic analysis of structure and composition is described. Note de contenu : - Summary of methods for studying morphology
- The scope of differential scanning calorimetry
- Distinguishing polymers with similar characteristics
- DMA can also indentify hidden structures
- The value and limitations of TEM
- Other forms of microscopy
- Spectroscopy methods analyse only outer layers
- Solid state NMR analysis
- Logical analysis procedure is necessary
- FIGURES : 1. Schematic representation of different morphology structure (a) gradient (b) raspberry (c) sandwich (de) inclusion (e) core-shell - 2. Idealised states of phase separation within emulsion particles and examples of their corresponding derivative modulated DSC traces - DMA traces showing the difference in tan delta of single phase and core-shell polymer - 4. TEM micrographs of the emulsions particles (a) core-shell, (b) inclusion (c) multi-lobed - 5. SEM micrographs of (a) raspberry type, (b) film hybrid emulsion, (c) hollow polymer - 6. AFM image showing topography of (a) acrylate core-shell emulsion, (b & c) acrylate core/polyurethane shell - 7. Schematic diagram for arriving at the characterisation techniques most useful for morphology identificationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zmIVnpSYeq8_a7YVhLDs1vB1AOjPOah-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27952
in EUROPEAN COATINGS JOURNAL (ECJ) > N° 3 (03/2017) . - p. 84-88[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18717 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Functionalization of polystyrene with cyclic anhydrides and their spectroscopic, adhesive and corrosive characterizations / I. L. Onder in INTERNATIONAL POLYMER PROCESSING, Vol. XXVII, N° 2 (05/2012)
[article]
Titre : Functionalization of polystyrene with cyclic anhydrides and their spectroscopic, adhesive and corrosive characterizations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : I. L. Onder, Auteur ; Ahmet Okudan, Auteur Année de publication : 2012 Article en page(s) : p. 270-276 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acylation
Adhésion
Analyse spectrale
Anhydrides
Anticorrosion
Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de
Polystyrène
Résonance magnétique nucléaireIndex. décimale : 668.9 Polymères Résumé : Polystyrene (PS) has been chemically modified with cyclic anhydrides such as glutaric anhydride (GA), citraconic anhydride (CA) and phthalic anhydride (PA) in the presence of BF3.O(C2H5)2in chloroform and succinic anhydride (SA) in 1,2-dichloroethane. Some important reaction parameters were determined in order to optimize the acylation process. ATR FTIR and1H NMR studies indicate that the acylation reaction can introduce both carboxyl group and double bond (for only citraconic anhydride) onto pendant aromatic groups of the polymer. The adhesion properties and corrosion resistance of the acylated PS on metal surface under various conditions have been investigated. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials - Chemical modifications of polystyrene with cyclic anhydrides (general procedure) - Measurements and analyses - Chemical analysis - Determination of coating properties - Determination of adhesion properties
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Synthesis - HNMR analysis - Adhesion and corrosion resistance propertiesDOI : 10.3139/217.2536 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EEUYMiySZVC5LF2pMUPiLim_lJuJznpz/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14697
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13846 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition / Leslie Labarre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023)
[article]
Titre : Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Leslie Labarre, Auteur ; Ophélie Squillace, Auteur ; Yu Liu, Auteur ; Peter J. Fryer, Auteur ; Preeti Kaur, Auteur ; Shane Whitaker, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Zhenyu J. Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 224-235 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Cheveux -- analyse
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Energie de surface
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.
- Methods : Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).
- Results : Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.
- Conclusion : Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Atomic force microscopy - AFM cantilever functionalization - Surface analysis - Surface energy
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION :Surface deposition analysis - Hair surface free energy - Surface morphology of hair fibres - Hair surface adhesion against methyl (-CH3) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against carboxylic acid (-COOH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against hydroxyl (-OH) functional group - Hair surface adhesion against amine (-NH2) functional group
- Table 1 : Silicone and cationic surfactant deposition in μg g-1 as a function of hair type (virgin hair, platinum-bleached hair) and treatment (chassis alone, chassis/TAS) in ambient air. Three hair fibre samples were collected from three different hair tresses, resulting in a total of nine measurements for each type
- Table 2 : Surface energy data obtained from contact angles on virgin hair and platinum-bleached hair using hexadecane for the non-polar liquid and water for the polar liquidDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12834 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qUQR6DU_sOnv9W97138uGnXS8zH2hwWp/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39172
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 2 (03-04/2023) . - p. 224-235[article]A highly resistant structure between cuticle and cortex of human hair / Toshie Takahashi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 3 (06/2017)
[article]
Titre : A highly resistant structure between cuticle and cortex of human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshie Takahashi, Auteur ; S. Yoshida, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 327-336 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cortex (poil)
Cuticule
MicrobiologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIF : Clarifier la présence et les propriétés d'une structure unique située entre la cuticule et le cortex des cheveux humains
METHODES : Des fibres de cheveux entières et des cheveux fendus longitudinalement ont été utilisés. Traité avec un mélange d'urée, réducteur et alcalin, les cheveux ont été divisés à l'interface entre la cuticule et le cortex. Les résidus ont été observés dans la solution au microscope et la distribution des lipides et des protéines a été déterminée.
RESULTATS : A partir des cheveux traités en coupe longitudinale, on a obtenu une structure semblable à une membrane située à l'interface entre la cuticule et le cortex. Cette structure a montré une résistance particulièrement élevée contre le traitement chimique et pourrait être la région dans laquelle les racines proximales des cellules de la cuticule sont scellées. On a supposé que certains lipides de type sterylglycoside, dont la présence dans l'interface des cuticules et du cortex ont été rapportés précédemment, se trouvent dans cette structure.
CONCLUSION : Cette étude suggère la présence d'une structure membranaire, très résistante contre le traitement chimique, dans la région entre la cuticule et le cortex des cheveux humains. Cela pourrait protéger le cortex des stimuli externes plus solidement que la partie superficielle de la cuticule.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair fibres - Chemicals - Split between cuticle and cortex - Microscopic observation - FTIR-ATR measurement
- RESULTS : Split at the interface between cuticle and cortex - FT-IR measurements : lipids and proteinsDOI : 10.1111/ics.12380 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28631
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18959 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A highly resistant structure between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair III : Characterization of the structure CARB / Toshie Takahashi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)
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