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Auteur Frédéric Flament
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L'Oréal Research and Innovation Métier Soin - Chevilly - France
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Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023)
[article]
Titre : Photoaging's portrait : The road map towards its photoprotection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 33-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermo-cosmétologie
Etudes cliniques
Intelligence artificielle
Photoprotection
Photovieillissement (dermatologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.
- Materials and Methods : Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).
- Results : In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-Ã -vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects.
The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.
- Conclusion : Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Methodologies - Subjects - Clustering procedure for sun-phobic and non-sun-phobic groups - Qualify and quantify impact of photoprotective regimen
- RESULTS : Portraying photoaging - Towards photoprotection
- Table 1 : Questionnaire used to evaluate the history of sun-exposures (combined or not to a photoprotection habit) of women and men enrolled in the studies
- Table 2 : Summary of some studies aiming at best describing the facial Photoaging status (2487 Men and Women)
- Table 3 : Summary of the works dedicated to the effects brought by a topical photoprotective regimen (671 Men and Women)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12903 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12903 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40249
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° S1 (10/2023) . - p. 33-44[article]Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)
[article]
Titre : Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; B. Gautier, Auteur ; A.-M. Benize, Auteur ; A. Charbonneau, Auteur ; M. Cassier, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 664-675 Note générale : Bibliogr Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s
Femmes
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Peau -- Variations saisonnières
Photoprotection
Produits antisolaires
Rayonnement ultraviolet
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : OBJECTIVES :
These were two-fold: (i) to assess the possible changes in some facial signs induced in a 6-month period by the periodical shift from winter to summer in Caucasian women and (ii) to appraise the preventive effects of a strong photo-protective product.
METHODS :
The facial signs of two cohorts of French women (N= 40 and 42), of comparable ages were graded between winter to summer. One group was left unprotected whereas the other daily applied a strong photo-protective product for 6 months. Facial signs (structural and pigmentation-related) were graded in blind by a panel of 12 experts from photographs taken under standard conditions. A global and focused analysis of the skin colour or dark spots, when present, was carried out through spectro-radiometry under diffuse and standardized visible light, using the L*, a*, b* referential system.
RESULTS :
The unprotected group showed significant changes in summer as compared to winter on 10 facial signs (two-third of the studied signs) that presented an increased severity, of variable respective amplitude. Five signs among the 10 were particularly and significantly affected by the seasonal transition, of an amplitude above the precision of the grading scale. Three of these five signs concerned structural elements (wrinkles), the two others being related to vascular disorders (redness). These season-induced alterations appear efficiently reduced in the photo-protected group. The colour of the facial skin then appears more homogeneous, less red, less dull, all criteria being quantified by the L*, a*, b* referential system. The comparison with a previous work carried out on Chinese women, through a similar protocol, shows that the photo-protective product brings, in Caucasian women, a more important effect upon structural and vascular features than upon pigmentation disorders, inversely to the results previously observed in Chinese women.
CONCLUSION :
The alterations in some facial signs occurring in a 6-month period between winter and summer are confirmed in Caucasian women, mostly related to structural (wrinkles) and vascular elements. Such changes appear alleviated or prevented by daily applications of a strong sun photo-protective product.Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Study design - Subjects - Pictures acquisition - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs. - Facial signs - Assessment of facial skin colour - Statistics
- RESULTS : Comparability of groups 1 and 2 - UV index recors in Paris in 2015 - Changes in facial sign induced by a seasonal effect (winter vs. summer) - Changes in facial skin colour (cheeks area) - Contrasts between dark spots and adjacent sites on checks
- DISCUSSIONDOI : 10.1111/ics.12427 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29481
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017) . - p. 664-675[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19393 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 5 (10/2018)
[article]
Titre : A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; N. Bourokba, Auteur ; S. Nouveau ; J. Li ; A. Charbonneau Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 467-481 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Etudes cliniques
Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique
Pollution -- Effets physiologiques
Vieillissement cutané
VisageIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Contexte : L'impact d'une forte pollution urbaine chronique sur certains signes faciaux liés au vieillissement cutané est un sujet très peu étudié.
- Objectif : Déterminer, par scores visuels basés sur un Atlas photographique de référence, de possibles différences cliniques sur le visage de femmes chinoises, de mêmes âges, vivant depuis plus de 15 ans dans deux villes voisines ayant un degré de pollution très différent.
- Méthodes : Les visages de 2 groupes égaux de 204 femmes Chinoises (2 × 102) et d'âges comparables (25–45 ans), vivant à Baoding (une ville très polluée) et Dalian (une ville modérément polluée) depuis plus de 15 ans, ont été analysés. L'étude s'est focalisée sur 26 signes faciaux de 3 différentes natures (texture/rides, pigmentation, pores ou rougeur de la peau), à partir de photographies standardisées du visage (vues frontales et latérales). La sévérité clinique de chaque signe a été attribuée par 15 experts selon un atlas photographique de peau asiatique de référence qui offre différentes échelles selon les signes considérés (0–5, 0–8…). De plus, un panel naïf de 80 femmes Chinoises, non expertes, a été questionné, à la vue de toutes les photographies, sur l'aspect « santé », l'éclat du teint du visage, son homogénéité et sa perception de l'âge de chacune des 204 femmes étudiées.
- Résultats : Une augmentation de la sévérité clinique de pratiquement tous les signes faciaux a été observée chez le groupe de femmes le plus âgé (40–45 ans) vivant à Baoding. En particulier, la sévérité de 8 signes (5 relatifs à la structure cutanée et 3 à la pigmentation) a été trouvée augmentée de manière importante et significative chez ces femmes exposées à une forte pollution chronique urbaine. Le panel naïf a jugé le teint du visage des femmes de Baoding moins éclatant, moins homogène, en moins « bonne santé » et les a jugées plus âgées, comparativement à leurs homologues de Dalian. Les données météorologiques de ces deux villes de même latitude (UV, température, vents, pluies…) ne permettent pas de les différencier, à l'exception de leurs indices de qualité de l'air (IQA), très différents. De la même manière, les conditions de vie des femmes des deux villes (exposition aux UV, utilisation de produits cosmétiques, cuisine douce ou épicée…) ont été trouvées similaires dans tous les groupes d'âge considérés.
- Conclusion : Comparée à une ville modérément polluée, une pollution urbaine sévère favorise l'aggravation de signes faciaux chez des femmes Chinoises. En bref, l'exposition à un environnement aérien pollué peut être considérée comme un facteur additionnel d'accélération du vieillissement cutané.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Cities, weather conditions - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by a naïve panel ( perceptions by 'the others') - Statistics
- RESULTS : Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Global synthesis of results on major clinical clusters - Appraisals by a naïve panel (perceptions by 'the others')DOI : 10.1111/ics.12487 Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31387
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20379 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin of african descent : biophysical and clinical characterization influence of age / Stéphane Diridollou in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 2 (04-05-06/2013)
[article]
Titre : Skin of african descent : biophysical and clinical characterization influence of age Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stéphane Diridollou, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Jean de Rigal, Auteur ; Bernard Querleux, Auteur ; Bertrand Piot, Auteur ; Felicia Dixon-Parks, Auteur ; Roland Bazin, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 93-99 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie
Etude in vivo
Etudes cliniques
Etudes comparatives
Peau
Peau -- analyse
Peau noire
Vieillissement cutanéTags : Peau 'Afro-américain' Caucasien 'Propriétés biophysiques' 'Caractérisation clinique' Ethnicité Atlas Age Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The Clinical and biophysical data on African skin, its specific features and effects of aging are rather sparse. Accordingly, we aimed to characterize skin of African descent (African American skin) versus Caucasian skin through biophysical and clinical investigations. Additionally, clinical changes in some skin features as a function of age are reported.
In a first study, in vivo biophysical experiments were performed on the skin of 130 African American and 80 Caucasian women aged 18 to 87 living in the U.S. They included determination of the skin microrelief, color and color evenness, sebaceous function, surface hydration, mechanical properties, and skin structures (epidermis, subepidermal non-echogenic band, dermal epidermal junction, papillary-dermis and dermis). A second study involved a larger cohort of 200 African American and Caucasian women, aged 18-87, who were split into twelve matched 5-year age groups, in order to record age-related changes. Standardized photographs of the face were taken, focusing on various skin features. These included eye bags, under eye wrinkles, crow's feet.
These studies revealed that most of these skin features are common to both the Caucasian and African American populations. Nevertheless, some features were more prominent in or specific to the African American population including
• thicker epidermis and dermal-epidermal junction,
• thicker papillary dermis,
• stronger mechanical properties,
• specific clinical signs such as less depth of vertical upper lip wrinkles and
• more hyperpigmetation as well as pig mentary growths.
Moreover, clinical results showed that expression lines and tissue sagging appear at a later age in this population.
In addition, African American and Caucasian atlases were developed that can be used as an objective tool to evaluate product effectiveness, compare as well as identify the best products, and support efficacy claims.Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Study 1 - Biophysical measurements - Color heterogeneity - Sebaceous function - Thickness of the dermal-epidermal junction and epidermis - Study 2 - Clinical
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Biophysical measurements - Clinical evaluationPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=18785
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15157 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study / Chengda Ye in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022)
[article]
Titre : Structural and functional age-related changes in some facial signs of Chinese men: A pilot study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Chengda Ye, Auteur ; Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; Yang Wang, Auteur ; Hua Sun, Auteur ; Guancheng Yang, Auteur ; Yanwen Jiang, Auteur ; Caroline Delaunay, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 530-541 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomécanique
Chinois(e)s
Mesure -- Instruments
Signes du visage
Statistiques
Vieillissement cutanéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The objective of the study was to associate, on the same Chinese male subjects, changes in facial ageing signs with some biomechanical skin properties.
- Methods : The severities of 20 facial ageing signs of 219 differently aged Chinese men (20–65 years) were graded in blind by trained experts through standardized photographs, using a referential skin Atlas dedicated to Asian men. On each subject, the mechanical properties were assessed on the cheek area (left or right at random) by the validated suction technique Cutometer®. Finally, the skin colour parameters were assessed on images from VISIA-CR device.
- Results : Clinically speaking, the severity of almost all facial ageing signs increases from 30 to 65 years, in a linear-like progression, whereas the 20–30 years shows weak increases. Skin colour shows slight but progressive decreases in Luminance and ITA, whereas the yellow and red components slightly increased between 40 and 65 years. At the exception of skin firmness, the skin mechanical properties show a clear decline during the 30–50 years period and plateau beyond.
- Conclusion : The present study suggests that the 20–30 years period, albeit more clinically ‘silent’ than the other periods of age, seems to be an age range during which early alterations of some dermal elements' onset. Deeper in vivo investigating techniques (Echography, Multiphotonic microscopy) are needed to confirm such hypothesis.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Clinical grading - Instrumental measurements - Statistics
- RESULTS : Facial clinical signs and age - Instrumental measurements and age
- Table 1 : Distribution of the 219 Chinese male subjects by age groups and their sample sizes
- Table 2 : Summary of the 20 facial signs in Asian men that can be graded by the experts, re-grouped into 5 major clustersDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12802 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14fwdiRgb67UpQpU9Xw5mjeBfdzGteaA_/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38151
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 5 (10/2022) . - p. 530-541[article]Synchronized in vivo measurements of skin hydratation and trans-epidermal water loss. Exploring their mutual influences / E. Caberlotto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)
PermalinkThe objective and subjective impact of a daily self-massage on visible signs of stress on the skin and emotional well-being / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)
PermalinkVideo-based paired comparison to evaluate some cosmetic products under camera movement for dynamic performance / Emilie Yokoyama in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 4 (08/2023)
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