An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 472-478 Titre : An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; M. Hofmann, Auteur ; E. Roo, Auteur ; C. Raimbault-Gerard, Auteur ; B. Chuberre, Auteur ; Y. Zhang, Auteur ; R. Jiang, Auteur ; Irina Kezele, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; E Elmozino, Auteur ; J. Coquide, Auteur ; Vincent Arcin, Auteur ; Parham Aarabi, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 472-478 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Evaluation Femmes Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Système de notation Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To confirm the robustness and validity of an automatic scoring system, algorithm-based, that grades the severity of nine facial signs through "selfies" smartphones pictures taken by European Caucasian women through dermatological assessments. METHODS: 157 Caucasian women from three countries (France, Germany, Spain), of different ages (20-75 years), took one "selfie" image by the frontal camera of their smartphones whereas local dermatologists photographed them with the back camera of the same smartphone. The same nine facial signs of these subjects were initially graded by these local dermatologists, using referential Skin Aging Atlases. All 314 "selfies" images were then further automatically analyzed by the algorithm. The severity of facial signs (wrinkles, pigmentation, ptosis, skin folds etc.) were statistically compared to the assessments made by the three dermatologists, taken as ground truth. - RESULTS : Highly significant coefficients of correlation (P < 0.001) were found in the three cohorts between the grades provided by the system and those from dermatologists in live. The back camera - of a better resolution than the frontal one - seems affording slightly more significant correlations. However, although significantly correlated, the signs of vascular disorders and cheek skin pores present some disparities that are likely linked to the technical diversity of smartphones or self-shootings, leading to lower coefficients of correlations. - CONCLUSION : This automatic scoring system offers a promising approach in the harmonization of Dermatological assessments of skin facial signs and their changes with age or the follow up of anti-aging treatments. Note de contenu : - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics DOI : 10.1111/ics.12563 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15YUKd-XvjX_G9bcL0QhcIQjC6tPn3O6_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33214 [article]

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Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 450-461 Titre : Assessing the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on some facial signs of differently-aged Chinese men Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; D. Amar, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 450-461 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Asiatiques Etudes cliniques Peau -- Effets de la pollution atmosphérique Peau asiatique Perception de l'âge Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impact of an aerial chronic urban pollution (UP) on the severities of some facial signs of Chinese men living in two close but differently polluted Chinese cities. - Materials and Methods : Standardized digital photographs were taken on 201 subjects from two cohorts of Chinese men (100 inhabitants of Baoding/very polluted and 101 inhabitants of Dalian/less polluted) differently aged (20–60 years) allowing a focus on 17 different facial signs. The latter were graded by 15 experts, using a clinical referential skin atlas. A questionnaire was filled by all subjects collecting their habits and uses with regard sun-exposures and skincare products. A naïve panel of 80 Chinese women, of comparable ages, attributed a perceived age to each subject under blind conditions. - Results : These confirm previous data obtained on Chinese women, with a similar protocol, i.e. that some facial signs show an increased severity in the more polluted city. However, changes in facial signs, with age, are of a different pattern according to gender. In Chinese men, most signs show early onsets with however low age-related changes, inversely to those observed in women, at the exception of vascular disorders. Habits of sun-exposures and uses of skincare product were found totally similar in both cohorts, reinforcing the specific role of UP in the progressive changes of facial signs. Similar to the results previously obtained on Chinese women, men living in a more polluted city were judged older than those living in a less polluted aerial environment. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that a more severe UP increases the severities of some facial signs in Chinese men. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Cities,weather conditions - Protocol - Pictures acquisitions - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by a naïve panel (perceptions by 'the others') - Statistics - RESULTS : Answers form questionnaire - Evaluation and grading of facial skin aging signs - Appraisals by the naïve panel (age perceptions by 'the others') DOI : 10.1111/ics12558 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zLFkcTex4UqjjSxHaEeiFiyCW2gzJzm0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33203 [article]

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Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 425-436 Titre : Clinical impacts of sun exposures on the faces and hands of Japanese women at different ages Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; D. Velleman, Auteur ; S. Yamamoto, Auteur ; A. Nicolas, Auteur ; K. Udodaira, Auteur ; C. Morimoto, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; C. Nègre, Auteur ; C. Delaunay, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 425-436 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Japonaises Mains Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Rayonnement solaire Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To assess the impacts of sun exposures on some skin signs on the faces and hands of differently aged Japanese women, according to their distinct behaviours towards vis à vis sun exposure. - Methods : Two comparable cohorts of Japanese women (aged 18–83 years) were created according to their usual behaviour towards sun exposure i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 495) and sun-phobic (N = 516) and through their regular use(s) of a photo-protective product. Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 18 facial signs that were graded by 15 experts, using a referential skin ageing Atlas. From these two cohorts, two sub-cohorts (114 and 122 women) were created with regard to the similar clinical aspects of the dorsal side of their hands (Left vs. Right) that were further graded. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-ranges, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and photo-protection. - Results : Facial signs related to skin wrinkles/texture and pigmentary spots were found significantly more accentuated among non-sun-phobic women and show an early onset (20–30 years). Facial sagging and crow’s feet wrinkles appear delayed (30–40 years). The severity of vascular disorders was found to be similar in the two cohorts. The absolute differences in the grading’s of almost all signs were unsurprisingly found increased with advancing ages, illustrating the combination of chronological and photo-ageing processes. With regard to hands, differences in skin texture and pigmentary disorders are of a late onset (40–50 years) and were found much increased at older ages. The cutaneous signs of the hands of Japanese women can hardly be taken as reliable markers of their photo-ageing status. - Conclusion : The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impact of sun exposures on the facial skin of Japanese women, pinpointing the fact that some facial signs are of an early onset. Results significantly confirm the importance of both sun avoidance coupled with photo-protective measures. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Subjects - Clustering procedure - Pictures acquisitions - Protocol - Evaluation and grading of facial skin ageing signs - Global synthesis of results on major clinical clusters - Clinical signs on the hands - Statistics - RESULTS : Facial sign - Impact of age on the major structural and pigmentary facial signs - Hands clinical signs DOI : 10.1111/ics12555 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n6h1RLnHgnfWY4L3ImYPlcAWe5vudjbP/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33200 [article]

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Facial radiance influences facial attractiveness and affective impressions of faces / Hanako Ikeda in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 2 (04/2021) . - p. 144-157 Titre : Facial radiance influences facial attractiveness and affective impressions of faces Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Hanako Ikeda, Auteur ; Yuriko Saheki, Auteur ; Yuichi Sakano, Auteur ; Atsushi Wada, Auteur ; Hiroshi Ando, Auteur ; Keiko Tagai, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 144-157 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brillance (optique) Clarté de la peau Couleur Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Perception visuelle Peau -- Physiologie Perception de l'âge Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Facial attractiveness has been reported to be influenced by visual features such as facial shape and the colour and texture of the skin. However, no empirical studies have examined the effects of facial skin radiance on facial attractiveness. The present study investigated whether types of skin reflection (i.e. radiant, oily and shiny, and matte) and the position of the reflection on the face influence facial attractiveness and other affective impressions. - Methods : A total of 160 female participants (1) estimated the ages and (2) evaluated attractiveness and other impressions of unfamiliar female faces in a total of seven skin reflection conditions. These conditions incorporated three types of reflection (i.e. radiant, oily and shiny, and matte) and three positions of the reflection on the face (i.e. entire facial skin, only cheeks, and only T-zone). - Results : The facial images of radiance on entire faces were rated as appearing younger than the facial images of oily shine on entire faces and the matte faces. Attractiveness ratings and other positive impressions increased in the order of the matte (ranked lowest), the oily shine on entire face, and the radiance on entire face (ranked highest) conditions. The reflection position also influenced facial attractiveness: attractiveness ratings and other positive impressions were higher in the radiance on entire face condition than in the radiant cheeks and the radiant T-zone conditions. Interestingly, the radiant cheek faces were rated more radiant and healthier but less feminine and less bright than the radiant T-zone faces. - Conclusion : These results suggest that facial radiance enhances facial attractiveness and conveys a wide variety of positive impressions on the observer. The magnitude of the effects of cheek radiance and T-zone radiance differs across various affective impressions. Nevertheless, the results demonstrate that cheek and the T-zone radiance both contribute to higher attractiveness and other positive impressions of the radiance on entire faces. We believe that our findings can contribute as a guide to the enhancement of positive facial impressions by means of skin radiance, thereby leading to a better understanding of the value of skincare and base makeup. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Participants - Apparatus - Facial stimuli - Photography phase - Tasks and procedures - RESULTS : Task 1 - Task 2 - DISCUSSION : Âge estimation - Impressions of the face - Cultural effects - CONCLUSION - Table 1 : Differences in scores of paired comparison on Task 2. There were significant results at a 5% yardstick interval (*) and a 1% yardstick interval (**). (a)–(j) indicated each result of all questionnaires DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12673 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/150hTfHEbXOETdBBZxyDRu5WWAAvj0oU9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35754 [article]

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Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 411-424 Titre : Facial skin mapping : from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; J. Gierschendorf, Auteur ; B. Summers, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 411-424 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Evaluation Groupe ethnique Hydratation Peau -- Physiologie Sébum Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non-photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio-instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less-pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo-controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology. Note de contenu : - Part 1 : Observational study : exploratory inter-ethnic 2D approach using capacitance and TEWL measurements - Part 2 : Proof of concept moisturisation study : inter-ethnic 3D approach using capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH measurements - Part 3 : Facial sebum mapping, observational study on Caucasian subjects - Part 4 : Vehicle-controlled moisturisation study : conductance measurements on Chinese subjects DOI : 10.1111/ics12562 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d-E-H2weXqFx3Xyfv-3yr2aWMyXnI8t5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33199 [article]

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Factors associated with quality of life in facial melasma: a cross-sectional study / C. F. Pollo in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 3 (06/2018)

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Imaging and visualization : A game changer in claim substantiation / Remo Campiche in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

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Improvement in skin color achieved by smoking cessation / T. Ishiwata in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 2 (04/2013)  

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In vivo barrier challenge and long-term recovery in human facial skin / Mihaela Gorcea in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 3 (06/2013)  

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In vivo evaluation of some biophysical parameters of the facial skin of Indian subjects living in Mumbai. Part II : Variability with age and gender / L. Colomb in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 2 (04/2018)

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In vivo evaluation of some biophysical parameters of the facial skin of Indian women. Part I: variability with age and geographical locations / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 1 (02/2018)  

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Influence of skin ageing features on chinese women's perception of facial age and attractiveness / Aurélie Porcheron in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 4 (08/2014)  

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Instrumental and clinical studies of the facial skin tone and pigmentation of Shanghaiese women. Changes induced by age and a cosmetic whitening product / Q. Huixia in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 34, N° 1 (02/2012)  

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Lipidomic analysis of facial skin surface lipids in acne in young women / Qianqian Su in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 3 (06/2024)  

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Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach / J. Pierre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 5 (10/2018)

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Poudre pressée fini satin in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 168 (12/2002)

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Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

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Quantifying dyspigmentation in facial skin ageing : an explorative study / G. Dobos in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 5 (10/2015)  

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A quantitative evaluation method of skin texture affected by skin ageing using replica images of the cheek / J. H. Ryu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 36, N° 3 (06/2014)  

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Quantitative two-dimensional analysis of facial wrinkles of Japanese women at various ages / K. Tsukahara in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 24, N° 2 (04/2002)  

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