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Coming to terms with sammying and setting / Steve Hodges in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 19-22 Titre : Coming to terms with sammying and setting Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Steve Hodges, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 19-22 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux Cuirs et peaux -- Appareils et matériels Essorage Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : When I first entered the leather industry, it soon became clear that it had a unique vocabulary all of its won. I have yet to learn the origin of the term "sammying" or "samming" for the process of mechanically squeezing the water from a wet hide or skin. "Setting", also sometimes known as "striking out", is a little more straight forward, being the process of mechanically smoothing and spreading a damp (or sammed) hide or skin to set its grain and surface prior to drying. The introduction of machinery to tanneries initially saw separate machines for the two processes, but these have been largely replaced by the combined sammy/sette machine, first in its traditional format working individual hides, but increasingly found now as a through-feed machine. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Conventional sammy/setting machine with foot pedal controls (C.M.) - Fig. 2 : Conventional sammy/setting arrangement - Fig. 3 : Throughfeed machine arrangement with top and bottom felts and downward acting pressure roller (Bauce) - Fig. 4 : Throughfeed sammy/setter for whole wet-blue hides (C.M.) - Fig. 5 : Throughfeed wet blue sammy/setter with inverted pressure roller (Rizzi) - Fig. 6 : Massive bearing housings of a 5-roller, 4-nip throughfeed machine (Bauce) - Fig. 7 : Throughfeed machine arrangement for dyed leather, with two parallel pressure nips, plastic infeed conveyor, and oscillating double setting cylinders (Bauce) - Fig. 8 : Operators feeding dyed hides from a mobile tank into a through feed sammy/setter with stacker (Pittards plc) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17Kdi6RUA6sFxxHd8KHi60hYSbq8O5kf2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32245 [article]

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The tanning process / Richard Daniels in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 28 Titre : The tanning process : Back to basis : Part 4 of 9 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Daniels, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Picklage Le picklage consiste à faire absorber à la peau en tripe une quantité importante d'acide, en présence de sel neutre (NaCl) pour réprimer le gonflement que provoquerait l'acidité du milieu. Tannage au chrome Tannage végétal Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : The objective of tanning is to modify the chemical structure of the skin collagen to provide resistance to putrefaction, and stability under conditions of heat and moisture. Many tanning materials are in common use, applied either alone or in combination with other agents to target leather qualities. The predominant tanning technique in the world is chrome tannage (approximately 85%) but a significant quantity of vegetable tanned leathers are also made. A small but growing volume - often termed "wet white" - is part-tanned before committing to specialised tannage. Note de contenu : - Pickling process - Chrome tannage - Vegetable tannage - Panel 5 : General properties of different tannages En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJNYdz-MXy9opUI68K0DiZ8MKWW0G4i9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32246 [article]

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New liquid-ice raw hide preservation in Ireland / Steve Hodges in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 31-36 Titre : New liquid-ice raw hide preservation in Ireland Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Steve Hodges, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 31-36 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automatisation Cuirs et peaux -- Conservation Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie Peaux brutes Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The modern, wet blue processing factory of Michell Ireland was opened by the parent Australian compagny G.H. Michell and Sons in 1993 near Portlaw, Country Waterford. It was designed to accept 6,000 fresh hides a week from abattoirs within a 150-mile radius of the plant. The sucess of the enterprise has meant that capacity been steadlily increased, and the plant can now process 10-11,000 hides per week, which represents about 25% of the total Irish kill. As the skill base of the Irish leather industry is quite small, the tannery has had to look worldwide for its employees, and the 80-strong workforce now also includes operators and technicians from the Czech Republic, Brazil and Romania. Although the output of the plant has been substantially increased since its opening, the emphasis in recent years has been on the quality of the wet blue produced. Most of the hides are destined for automotive and furniture upholstery where quality expectation is high, and the plant is approved ti ISO 9002. Anthony Sheehan, Michell Ireland's trading manager, belives that the emphasis on freshly killed hides, put into controlled preservation in the shortest possible time, gives a major advantage in maximising grain quality. The company has invested 1 million euros in automated handling in the last six months, and a major proportion of this has been in fresh hide reception, grading and preservation using the lastest "liquid ice" technology from the Italian automated handling specialist Feltre. The original hide reception system at the plant was based around the arrival of truckloads of fresh hides arriving from the abattoirs in the evening following the day's kill. Tipper trucks backed up to a large external door, then tipped their load of hides onto a lower level concrete floor inside the factory. Operators climbed the heap to work amongst the hides, separating and dragging out individual hides to place on an overhead conveyor with hooks on chains. A cut was made in the hide to accept the hook, and the hide carried along for weighing, trimming and grading, before being put into plastic boxes. Cubed ice from an ice-making machine was shovelled in between the hides, and the boxes moved to a chilled store room until delivery to the liming vessels. The system was labour intensive, and involved hard, physical labour for the workers. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Schematic diagram of hide handling facility - Fig. 2 : First three conveyors of system - Fig. 3 : Operator attaching hides to overhead conveyor - Fig. 4 : Trimming the hide - Fig. 5 : Grader's pushbutton panel - Fig. 6 : Weighing station on overhead conveyor track - Fig. 7 : Dropping points above plastic bins - Fig. 8 : Hide release mechanisms on overhead conveyor - Fig. 9 : Liquid ice blending unit - Fig. 10 : Liquid ice discharge manifold to bin - Fig. 11 : Central computer control panel - Fig. 12 : Control panel data display En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HaHlclSyISaZECJGh6pr2mZhXudNVPxe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32247 [article]

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The flexibility of finishing / Flavio Guarda in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 47-49 Titre : The flexibility of finishing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Flavio Guarda, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 47-49 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agent mattant Charges (matériaux) Cires Colorants Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Emulsions Epaississants Liants Pigments Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The main purpose of finishing is to provide different types of leather with characteristics that satisfy the requirements of a continuously evolving global market. These charateristics include following : colour, brightness, matting, feel, softness, print pattern, water resistance, special physical properties. Almost all types of hides and skins can be finished. The final uses of the different leathers is wide and includes shoe uppers, furniure and automotive upholstery, garments and leather goods. It is therefore very important for the finisher to know the final leather use in order to adjust the finishing in the best way. The range of the chemical products used in finishing is considerable, and combinations of these products can produce almost any effect or property. These auxiliaries can be divided into the following groups: Note de contenu : - BINDERS : Acrylic binders - Polyurethane binders - Butadiene binders - Protein binders - Crosslinkes - MATTING AGENTS - FILLERS - WAXES - WETTING AND PENETRATING AGENTS - THICKENING AGENTS - EMULSIONS AND SOLVENT BASED PRODUCTS : Nitro-ceLlulose lacquers and emulsions - Cellulose acetobutyrate (CAB) laquers and emulsions - Mono and two-component solvent-borne polyurethanes - Aqueous and solvent-borne silicones - Fluorine derivitives - PIGMENTS - LIQUID DYESTUFFS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_IuF_5LsR0Dz_zarxXJ4W1DgVf0WtFdc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32264 [article]

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How can dye migration be stoppped ? / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 51-52 Titre : How can dye migration be stoppped ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur ; Michael Vaskovich, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 51-52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Décoloration Produits chimiques -- Migration Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Most of us will have seen a change in the colour of finished leather which has taken place subsequent to the application of an aqueous top coat. Immediately the leather has been finished it matches the standard colour pattern; sometime later the colour has changed. There are three possible reasons : bleeding of colour from the base to the top, yellowing and discoloration caused by light, change due to exposure to heat and humidity. Note de contenu : - DYE MIGRATION INTO AQUEOUS TOP COATS : Procedure 1 : determine the colour fastness of the finish - Procedure 2 : determine the influence of the crust leather on discoloration of the top coats - WHAT CAN BE REDUCED ? - AVOIDING MATERIALS THAT MIGRATE - MINIMISING DISCOLORATION En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Az2RcoASnhWWDiNRjzLBPau7WLqZCpLx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32265 [article]

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The lightfastness of dyestuffs and leathers / Bernd Kahne in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 53-56 Titre : The lightfastness of dyestuffs and leathers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernd Kahne, Auteur ; Jurgen Brosi, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 53-56 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Essais accélérés (technologie) Photostabilité Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Lightfastness, particularly for furniture and garment leathers, is a major issue, and tanners are experiencing more technical problems in leather dyeing than previously encountered. When grain leathers were finished using pigments, the lightfastness was largely dependent upon the properties of the pigment used. However, today the dyestuff is often the main component for lightfastness. Demands can vary depending on the intended purpose of the leather. While a lightfastness of grade 3 is sufficient for shoe upper leathers, the market asks for grade 3-4 for garment leathers and, for upholstery, a lightfastness of grade 4. These values apply for both full grain and velour leathers and are influenced by the following factors: - Dyestuff selection (type/structure). - Shade depth (dyestuff amount/dye procedure). - Leather type. - Characteristics of tannage, retannage and fatliquor. - Physical and chemical properties of the leather and conditions within dyeing process. Note de contenu : - Lightfastness and the type of dye - Shade intensity, normed dye intensity (RT), and absorptive ability - Lightfastness in relation to colour intensity - Dyeing leathers using combinations of dyestuffs - The influence of chemicals used in leather manufacture - The technical issues - Fig. 1 : Lightfastness related to metal - Fig. 2 : Standardises normed dye intensities (RT) - Fig. 3 : The build-up properties of fast acid brown ANP on full chrome and retanned leathers - Fig. 4 : Lightfastness test IUF - 402 - Fig. 5 : Lightfastness test IUF - 402 - Fig. 6 : The darkening effect of vegetable extracts - Fig. 7 : The effect of vegetable extracts on colour chrome En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wOTldisePmjccFEK09Q5RW8xFr1u4Wh7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32268 [article]

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Minimising fogging / Joris Gielen in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 59-60 Titre : Minimising fogging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joris Gielen, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 59-60 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Automobiles -- Habitacles Buée Cuir dans les automobiles Formulation (Génie chimique) Humidité -- Absorption Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Fogging occurs when the volatiles contained in a component used in the interior of an automobile evaporate, then condense as a film on the window screen. This condensate reduces the driver's visibility, and the film also promotes dust adhesion, which further worsens the problem. Leather upholstery and fittings are important components for adding value in the automotive sector, and the fogging phenomenon can be reduced by careful attention in three areas. Note de contenu : - Selection of raw materials - The selection of chemicals and auxiliaries - Attention to manufacturing technique - General techniques in upholstery manufacture - Panel 1 : Fogging tests - Panel 2 : Guideline formulation : Automotive upholstery leather En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BYXWn3Im4IgvRpVqianWQcR-gAMU26ST/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32269 [article]

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Biosensors mean business / Sarah Young in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 62-63 Titre : Biosensors mean business Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sarah Young, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 62-63 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biocapteurs Cuirs et peaux -- Aspect de l'environnement Cuirs et peaux -- Industrie -- Aspect de l'environnement Eaux usées -- Analyse Industrie -- Pollution -- Lutte contre Produits chimiques -- Détection Produits chimiques -- Toxicologie Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Pollution in many forms is a major issue for a broad range of industries and the leather sector is no exception. Keeping track of harmful substances is becoming increasingly important as legislation gets tougher and associated clean-up costs and penalties get higher. Monitoring, using biotechnology, has many applications in industry including: - rapid measurement of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD) and chemical oxygen demand (COD) of wastewater - measuring toxicity of effluent or process water - detecting specific substances or contamination within the process - authenticating raw materials or high value products. Note de contenu : - How do they work ? - Biosensor benefits - Analysis - Industrial examples - Fig. 1 : A schematic representation of a biosensor En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5O8XRoAHnSBI1YKgQIgVdHFHzN0V8iW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32270 [article]

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