New formulation technology to boost sun protection / Hélène Meaudre in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023) . - p. 802-814 Titre : New formulation technology to boost sun protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hélène Meaudre, Auteur ; Odile Aubrun, Auteur ; Jean-Baptiste Boitte, Auteur ; Stéphane Douezan, Auteur ; Martin Josso, Auteur ; Danielle Le Verge, Auteur ; Pascale Renoux, Auteur ; Gaelle Rondepierre, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 802-814 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Texture Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Polymères Produits antisolaires Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : As every skin type worldwide is concerned by photoprotection, with consumers preferring cosmetic elegant and efficient sunscreen products, we aim at developing the most performant and desirable sun care products. - Methods : We selected an interesting polymer, abbreviated AAHCP and designed scanning electron cryomicroscopy (cryoSEM), small angle and wide angle X-ray scattering and confocal laser scanning microscopy studies to understand its behaviour in solution and in simplex sun care formulations. This allowed us to develop innovative sunscreen formulation technology that was demonstrated by in vitro and in vivo photoprotection methods. Comprehensive photoprotection evaluations were made on the fully developed sun protection product. - Results : We observed the polymer oil structuring properties as well as its ability to form small and stable droplets in simplex emulsions. In vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) measurements demonstrated the sun protection boosting efficacy of AAHCP polymer in several emulsions or as a stand-alone emulsifier. This formulation technology also allowed to filtering system concentration optimization. Use-test performed on a fully developed AAHCP-based sunscreen validated its optimal performances as well as its ideal cosmetic features, with non-sticky, non-greasy perception and invisible skin result. - Conclusion : For the first time, thanks to a new specific polymer creating a new type of emulsion, we succeed in reconciliate in a single sun care product maximal SPF efficacy, resistance to numerous stresses and optimal sensoriality. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Materials - Physicochemical studies on the new polymer AAHCP - Sun protection evaluation studies - RESULTS : Structure of AAHCP - AAHCP in oil and emulsion - AAHCP as an additive for sunscreen - AAHCP as a sun-boosting technology - Table 1 : Composition of simple sunscreen formulations - Table 2 : Test panel demographics - Table 3 : Recapitulative table of the peak values - Table 4 : Very water resistance of sunscreen Emulsion L DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12889 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z5Bk-sl6NlI0rBeK7zTXj9WmWG6Qm24R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40266 [article]

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