Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate : Influence on photostability / J. Duarte in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 6 (12/2019) . - p. 585-593 Titre : Alginate microparticles as carriers for the UV filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate : Influence on photostability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. Duarte, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur ; M. Costa, Auteur ; E. S. Da Silva, Auteur ; J. L. Faria, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Paulo Jorge Cardoso Costa, Auteur ; S. Scalia, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 585-593 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alginate de sodium L'alginate de sodium ou polymannuronate sodique, de formule NaC6H7O6 est un additif alimentaire (E401) utilisé dans les boissons, constitué d’alginate et de sodium. Il se présente sous forme de poudre blanche à blanc crème, inodore et sans saveur, très soluble dans l'eau. C'est une longue molécule extraite d'algues brunes, constituée d'unités de glucides reliées ensemble pour former une chaîne. Cosmétiques Encapsulation Octyl méthoxycinnamate Particules (matières) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photostabilité Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The organic ultraviolet UVB filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) was encapsulated in microparticles (MPs) of sodium alginate and co-loaded with vitamin E (Vit.E) by an extrusion process using an aerodynamically assisted jetting (AAJ) methodology. The aim was to assess the effect of encapsulation concerning UVB filter release from the MPs and its photochemical stability. - Methods : The EHMC photostability was analysed by exposing the samples (both MPs in aqueous dispersion and incorporated in a cream preparation) during 1 h to simulated solar light. For the MPs (empty-MP, EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP), the morphology and size were characterized ; while in the case of the encapsulated samples, the amount of EHMC-loading was determined. The release of EHMC was evaluated by adding EHMC-MP or EHMC + Vit.E-MP to 65% ethanol in water under mechanical stirring at 32°C. - Results : All MPs showed a homogeneous size distribution with a median of 90.5 ± 2.5 µm for EHMC-MP and 70.4 ± 1.14 µm for EHMC + Vit.E-MP. The encapsulation efficiency was 92.9% and 99.4% for EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP, respectively. The observed release from the MPs was lower than the dissolution of the pure UV filter. EHMC-MP and EHMC + Vit.E-MP were successfully incorporated into a cream formulation, with no evidence of phase separation or colour modification. Upon simulated light exposure, the photoisomerization/phototransformation of EHMC encapsulated in MPs and Vit.E-MP decreased as compared to free EHMC, both in aqueous dispersion and as a cream. The conformational ratio of the isomers (Z-/E-EHMC) was found to be the lowest in the presence of Vit.E. - Conclusion : This work demonstrates that use of these alginate microparticulate carriers could enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen preparations containing this UVB filter. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : materials - Microparticles production - Microparticles freeze drying - EHMC assay - Microparticles characterization - Cream preparation - Photostability - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Microparticles characterization DOI : 10.1111/ics.12578 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vdfA1ng0cfaEgKvHauMvWo7OC225Zq7X/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33667 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21409	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics / S. Silva in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019) . - p. 378-386 Titre : Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Silva, Auteur ; M. Ferreira, Auteur ; A. S. Oliveira, Auteur ; C. Magalhães, Auteur ; Maria Emilia Sousa, Auteur ; M. Pinto, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 378-386 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine C Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition. - Methods : Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018. - Results : Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018. - Conclusion : This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics. Note de contenu : - Antioxidant trends - Tocopherol and its derivatives - Ascorbic acid and derivatives - Others - Combinations of antioxidants - Limitations DOI : 10.1111/ics.12551 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T7cPMDWZ6GBYQXOz-N4Trln1xb6-h8qZ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33117 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21170	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Quality of life in female users of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments / Marta Evangelista in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 650-662 Titre : Quality of life in female users of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marta Evangelista, Auteur ; Margarida Vilaça, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur ; M. Graça Pereira, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 650-662 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Ageing is accompanied by physical changes, both at the physiological and appearance levels. The way people perceive these changes have important consequences on general health and quality of life (QoL). This study analysed the relationship between sociodemographic variables, psychological variables, use of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments, and QoL. - METHODS : This cross-sectional study included a sample of 271 women, aged between 25 and 70 years, users of antiageing cosmetic products and/or aesthetic services. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory – Revised), self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), self-perceptions of ageing (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and QoL (SF-12v2). - RESULTS : Being older and having a higher household income was associated with better QoL. The use of facial firming products, hair colouring products, and sunscreen was also associated with better QoL. Psychological morbidity and perfectionism contributed negatively to QoL, while household income contributed positively. Ageing perceptions moderated the relationship between self-esteem and QoL. - CONCLUSION : According to the findings, intervention programs to reduce psychological morbidity, increase self-esteem, promote more adaptive patterns of perfectionism, and recognize the role of age perception are needed to improve women's QoL. The perceived influence of the usage of cosmetic products to prevent/minimize aging signs should be further. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Participants - Instruments - Procedure - Data analysis - RESULTS : Sample characteristics - Relationship between sociodemographic variables, psychological variables, use of cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments, and QoL - Ageing perceptions as a moderator between self-esteem and QoL - Table 1 : Correlation between sociodemographic variables, use of anti-aging products, and QoL - Table 2 : Correlations between psychological variables and QoL - Table 3 : Variables that contribute to QoL DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12804 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vKWhpHcxrQOmRh5xy99EYT1S9_GjAaMZ/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38389 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight / Marta S. Ferreira in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 1 (02/2022) . - p. 56-73 Titre : Sensitive skin : Active ingredients on the spotlight Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marta S. Ferreira, Auteur ; José M. Sousa Lobo, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 56-73 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Allergies Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Physiologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. - Methods : A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. - Results : Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. - Conclusion : This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Data collection - Data analysis - Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Ingredient use and combinations - Top ingredients for sensitive skin - Scientific evidence of active ingredients for sensitive skin - Mechanisms of action - Table 1 : Active ingredients found at INCI lists from analysed products for sensitive skin and their relative usage - Table 2 : Summary of the top ingredients used for sensitive skin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12754 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pXO_8nSog6e-XzSdmHiEgsVN2oDohzTp/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37266 [article]

Exemplaires

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
aucun exemplaire

---

1 (1 - 4 / 4)