Formulating : The ultimate balancing act / Lou Graydon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021) . - p. 73-75 Titre : Formulating : The ultimate balancing act Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lou Graydon, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 73-75 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In the age of misinformation, there is a myriad of articles, blogs and social media posts claiming that cosmetic ingredient ‘X’ is terrible but ‘Y’ is perfect. Cosmetic scientists around the globe baulk at these claims as very rarely is anything so black and white, particularly when it comes to skin care. In fact, an individual’s skin care needs constantly change depending on diet, hormones and even the time of year.1 What skin actually requires is a balance of a variety of ingredients to target those needs – there is no universal serum that will give everyone perfect skin. Cosmetic formulations themselves are mixtures of different materials carefully balanced to provide the best stability, aesthetics and texture possible. Arguably the most important category of ingredients for personal care is emulsifiers. However, when formulating a cosmetics product there is a lot more to consider than just the ingredients. Sustainability and environmental impact are at the top of nearly everyone’s agenda, with many claims being made about eco-friendly practices, but in reality, the issues we face are enormously complex. As with skin care, there is no single method of reducing environmental impact and, in many cases, choosing to focus on one area of sustainability can have consequences elsewhere This article discusses the conflicts, compromises and trade-offs that formulators encounter every day, whether related to ingredient performance, naturality, sustainability or consumer perception. Note de contenu : - Sun care - Naturals vs synthetics - Local vs global sourcing - Aqueous vs anhydrous En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mz2sqXBJXshFFCo2UdnFyLLqybJYAROJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36932 [article]

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Not for your eyes only : high-efficacy actives / Agnieszka Bucholc in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022) . - p. 72-76 Titre : Not for your eyes only : high-efficacy actives Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Agnieszka Bucholc, Auteur ; Lou Graydon, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 72-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cernes Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peptides Poches sous les yeux Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Eyes are an insight into a person's life and mind, often giving away what someone is thinking or feeling at any given moment. It is no wonder, then, that the eye area has long been a leading skincare concern among consumers. The global eyecare market is estimated to be worth up to S61.3million in 2020 and considerable annual growth of up to 6.4 % is predicted over the next 10 years. The skin surrounding eyes is thinner than other areas and is more susceptible to signs of sleep deprivation, stress and ageing. Weakening collagen easily causes wrinkles in this area and damaged blood vessels are more visible, leading to dark circles. Formats such as creams and serums that target these concerns have been commonplace on beauty shelves for many years, but in recent times the options available have considerably expanded to include masks, sticks and under-eye patches, among others. Eyecare products are a staple for any skin care routine, and can be found across all types of skin care range, from 100 % natural to science-driven cosmeceutical brands. The actives used in these products are imperative to their function, and therefore need to have robust data behind them as well as being from appropriate sources to align with the product messaging. Using cutting edge biotechnotogical techniques, Aston Chemicals' partner Lipotrue has developed three eyecare actives from natural and synthetic sources, which help to reduce signs of ageing and sleep deprivation. Note de contenu : - iPeptide - Meiview - Tight and bright eye serum - Col-frag remastered - Elastic eye butter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1meYz38_xgwd9dSC1cGt79-AIRQDoIP0w/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37414 [article]

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Seven steps for formulating on a budget / Lou Graydon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023) . - p. 45-48 Titre : Seven steps for formulating on a budget Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Lou Graydon, Auteur ; Katherine Goodwin, Auteur ; Martha Stagg, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Coût -- Contrôle Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With many consumers of cosmetics facing issues related to the cost of living, British distributor Aston Chemicals explains why reducing the cost of formulations is best tackled in a holistic way by analysing the whole development and manufacturing process to identify areas of potential cost saving. In times of financial hardship, consumers continue to purchase smaller, more affordable luxuries. This is known as the lipstick effect, a trend identified by Professor Juliet Schor in 1998 and later supported by claims from Estée Lauder’s Leonard Lauder, who noted that their lipstick sales had increased in line with recessions triggered by the 9/11 attacks and the 2008 financial crash. The trend is also seen across eyeliner, mascara, and other relatively inexpensive treats, but not across personal care as a whole. Mintel have reported that 54 % of consumers are reducing their spend on beauty products, and 25 % are ‘trading down’ by buying cheaper versions of products and services. At the same time, the cost of raw materials, packaging and production is also increasing, leading many brands to reduce the costs of their formulation. Replacing expensive materials with cheaper alternatives is a popular way to reduce the cost, but this also comes at a price. Cheap alternatives are often less refined and may contain more impurities, which can wreak havoc with the stability of the formulation. For example, cheaper natural oils and butters may initially work well in existing formulations, but will oxidise more quickly than more refined products. This could cause discolouration, rancidity, and instability, leading to consumer complaints and, ultimately, damage to brand reputation. Reducing the cost of formulations is best tackled in a more holistic way, by analysing the whole development and manufacturing process to identify areas of potential cost saving. Below is a summary of ways in which this could be achieved. Note de contenu : - Simplification of formulations - Embracing the cold - Multifunctional ingredients - Multifunctional formulations/product format - Boosting efficacy - Incorporating instant effects En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gRzE4u9fkhHLGOUt-ggJBQYgTK42z6to/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39793 [article]

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