Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 6 (12/2021) . - p. 691-702 Titre : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside : An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Nathalie Borotra, Auteur ; Fernanda Chaves, Auteur ; Fabio Sanches, Auteur ; Anne L. Gaudry, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 691-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acide ascorbique glucoside Antioxydants Dermo-cosmétologie Explant de peau Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau humaine Protection cutanée Systèmes de livraison (pharmacie) Vitamine C Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations. - Methods : Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase. - Results : Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions. - Conclusion : A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Storage stability - Penetration and metabolism in viable fresh human skin explants - HPLC/UV analysis of AA and AA2G - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Stability of AA2G and AA in formulations - Prodrug concept: AA release in fresh viable human skin explants from AA2G - Kinetic of penetration of AA2G vs. AA formulations in fresh viable human skin explants - Antioxidant protection of AA2G in RHE model DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12745 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jBKOIM98kz6UIcCT2A28dTue6JagkvCH/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37050 [article]

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Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties / Carine Jacques in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 391-404 Titre : Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Carine Jacques, Auteur ; Daniel Bacqueville, Auteur ; Corinne Jeanjean-Miquel, Auteur ; Camille Génies, Auteur ; Maité Noizet, Auteur ; Amélie Tourette, Auteur ; Sandrine Bessou-Touya, Auteur ; Hèlène Duplan, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 391-404 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cosmétiques Glucoside de tocophéryle Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxothiazolidine Peau -- Soins et hygiène Pénétration (physique) Produits antisolaires Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. - Methods : After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. - Results : The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. - Conclusion : These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Chemicals - Reconstructed skin models - Application of the sunscreens - Skin irradiation - Penetration and metabolism using reconstructed skin models - Measurement of oxidative stress and antioxidant response in RHE models - Data handling and analyses - RESULTS : Skin penetration of 14C-OTZ and 14C-DTG equivalents - Formation and distribution of metabolites - Antioxidant properties of OTZ and DTG - MDA - SOD - Catalyse DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12705 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dMEd-TG9S7X1oIiAhI9cz-n490m132CR/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36674 [article]

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