Choosing the correct base coat resin / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Choosing the correct base coat resin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couche de base Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de moutons Cuirs et peaux de vachettes Polymères Réticulants Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Before developing a new finished leather, the tanner needs a great deal of information about the characteristics of the finished product if the leather is to match requirements completely and profitably. Getting it right first time is always a worthwhile challenge as this leads to speedy and timely delivery and the opportunity to put a new product onto the market ahead of the competition. To achieve this, the tanner needs to know how best the finished product will match customer needs, primarily through selecting the most competitively priced raw material. Having decided this, there still remain many process choices from beamhouse through to finishing. Usually there are many reference points from which existing processes may be adopted and this is the safest and easiest way to begin. Note de contenu : - MEETING THE SPECIFICATION : A white full grain shoe upper leather - Super-soft sheepskin garment leather - ESTABLISH THE BUILDING BLOCKS - PREPARATION OF THE FINISH FORMULA : Physical properties of finished leathers - Properties of polymers - A guide to cross-linkers - FUNDAMENTALS FOR SUCCESS - Fig. 1 : Typical properties required for modern finished leathers - Fig. 2 : Typical properties of polymers used for leather finishing - Fig. 3 : Guide to available cross-linkers - Panel 1 : Compacted products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4bIUz8R_QtRTMtFDN_RERDWwOtsaOKV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32337 [article]

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How can dye migration be stoppped ? / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 15, N° 5 (08-09/2002) . - p. 51-52 Titre : How can dye migration be stoppped ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur ; Michael Vaskovich, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 51-52 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorants Cuirs et peaux -- Teinture Décoloration Produits chimiques -- Migration Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Most of us will have seen a change in the colour of finished leather which has taken place subsequent to the application of an aqueous top coat. Immediately the leather has been finished it matches the standard colour pattern; sometime later the colour has changed. There are three possible reasons : bleeding of colour from the base to the top, yellowing and discoloration caused by light, change due to exposure to heat and humidity. Note de contenu : - DYE MIGRATION INTO AQUEOUS TOP COATS : Procedure 1 : determine the colour fastness of the finish - Procedure 2 : determine the influence of the crust leather on discoloration of the top coats - WHAT CAN BE REDUCED ? - AVOIDING MATERIALS THAT MIGRATE - MINIMISING DISCOLORATION En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Az2RcoASnhWWDiNRjzLBPau7WLqZCpLx/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32265 [article]

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How to make perfect patent leather / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 6 (10/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 6 (10/2005) . - p. 39-42 Titre : How to make perfect patent leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 39-42 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Essais dynamiques Flexion (mécanique) Vernis Vernis en phase aqueuse Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Patent leathers are currently fashionable. When demand is strong, as is the case today, tanners and finishing units that have the expertise to produce leather finished with a well proven patent coating system will have experienced and overcome the many application and performance difficulties that are associated with this type of finish. The original patent leather finishing process that was developed and introduced into commercial manufacture during the latter part of the ni neteenth century used a linseed oil based lacquer coating. This process produced finished leather having the desired high gloss, "plastic" surface. Physical performance was adequate initially but the finish hardened on ageing, resulting in a tendency to crack. Technology has moved since Chose days but the so-called "genuine patent leather" produced today is finished using solvent dilutable polyurethane solutions that are cured using isocyanate based crosslinkers. Water based products are now available that will produce what are termed "wet look" finishes. These products are relatively easy and safe to apply and overcome many of the difficulties and hazards associated with the well-tried solvent based systems. However, they still fall slightly short on the depth of transparency and lustrous gloss level when compared with that of the solvent based systems. Whilst it is the final top coat applied to the leather that determines its gloss level, there are many additional factors that determine the quality, physical performance, consistency and look of the finished leather. Note de contenu : - Making patent leather - Creating a clear, smooth, glossy and glass-like look : Preparation of the crust leather - Impregnation - Base coat - The intermediate coat - Patent top coat - Drying and curing conditions - Handling - Troubleshooting problems - Overall - Panel 1 : Finish peeling off the toe of a shoe on ageing - Panel 2 : Finish peeling off the upper of a shoe on ageing - Panel 3 : Finish cracking on lasting - Panel 4 : Troubleshooting and solutions - Panel 5 : Testing patent leather for flex resistance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cfE5J0MRh-e_X5rhpzZa7VL_KYtxarCK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32481 [article]

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Impregnation improves selection / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 14, N° 8 (12/2001 - 01/2002)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 14, N° 8 (12/2001 - 01/2002) . - p. 44-45 Titre : Impregnation improves selection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 44-45 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chrome Cuir pleine fleur Cuir végétal Matériaux -- Imprégnation Polymères en émulsion Retannage Surfaces (technologie) Index. décimale : 675.2 Préparation du cuir naturel. Tannage Résumé : Surface impregnation is the first stage in finishing certain types of leather. Its purpose is to reduce looseness of the grain, provide improved finish uniformity and lasting properties of the leather and to improve final selection. However, impregnation tends to firm the leather and this needs to be taken into account when preparing the retannage for softer leathers. Impregnation can be applied to both vegetable and chrome tanned full grain and corrected grain leathers. For a leather to be impregnated, a polymer dispersion needs to be applied so that it will penetrate through the grain surface to the lower layers. Upon drying, this fills and supports the fibre structure between them. Note de contenu : - Impregnation resins - Determining the optimum quantity of penetrator - Penetrator performance - Choice of resin - How much resin should be used ? - Fig. 1 - Fig. 2 - Fig. 3 : Retanning and fatliquoring - Fig. 4 : Full grain vegetable leather 1.8mm thick - Fig. 5 : Corrected grain vegetable leather 1.8mm thick - Fig. 6 : Full grain chrome leather 1.8mm thick - Fig. 7 : Corrected grain chrome leather 1.8mm thick En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mHrg7Wfv5iJjXhduMmXj3gxiu1T6DUP3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32191 [article]

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