Titre : |
How to make perfect patent leather |
Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
Auteurs : |
Peter Jessop, Auteur |
Année de publication : |
2007 |
Article en page(s) : |
p. 39-42 |
Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
Catégories : |
Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Essais dynamiques Flexion (mécanique) Vernis Vernis en phase aqueuse
|
Index. décimale : |
675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure |
Résumé : |
Patent leathers are currently fashionable. When demand is strong, as is the case today, tanners and finishing units that have the expertise to produce leather finished with a well proven patent coating system will have experienced and overcome the many application and performance difficulties that are associated with this type of finish.
The original patent leather finishing process that was developed and introduced into commercial manufacture during the latter part of the ni neteenth century used a linseed oil based lacquer coating. This process produced finished leather having the desired high gloss, "plastic" surface. Physical performance was adequate initially but the finish hardened on ageing, resulting in a tendency to crack. Technology has moved since Chose days but the so-called "genuine patent leather" produced today is finished using solvent dilutable polyurethane solutions that are cured using isocyanate based crosslinkers. Water based products are now available that will produce what are termed "wet look" finishes. These products are relatively easy and safe to apply and overcome many of the difficulties and hazards associated with the well-tried solvent based systems. However, they still fall slightly short on the depth of transparency and lustrous gloss level when compared with that of the solvent based systems.
Whilst it is the final top coat applied to the leather that determines its gloss level, there are many additional factors that determine the quality, physical performance, consistency and look of the finished leather. |
Note de contenu : |
- Making patent leather
- Creating a clear, smooth, glossy and glass-like look : Preparation of the crust leather - Impregnation - Base coat - The intermediate coat - Patent top coat - Drying and curing conditions - Handling
- Troubleshooting problems
- Overall
- Panel 1 : Finish peeling off the toe of a shoe on ageing
- Panel 2 : Finish peeling off the upper of a shoe on ageing
- Panel 3 : Finish cracking on lasting
- Panel 4 : Troubleshooting and solutions
- Panel 5 : Testing patent leather for flex resistance |
En ligne : |
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cfE5J0MRh-e_X5rhpzZa7VL_KYtxarCK/view?usp=drive [...] |
Format de la ressource électronique : |
pdf |
Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32481 |
in WORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 6 (10/2005) . - p. 39-42