Aller sur edunet
Accueil
Détail de l'auteur
Auteur Sandra Breitenbach |
Documents disponibles écrits par cet auteur
Ajouter le résultat dans votre panier Affiner la recherche
Titre : Beauty and the mask - eyes only : How wearing a face mask affects the choice of the right skin care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Consommateurs -- Attitudes
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Masques antimicrobiens
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Perte insensible en eau
Solutions (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Behavioural changes : Within a very short period of time, wearing a face mask has led women to focus more on the eye area when applying make-up. A survey by the French IFOP showed that 44% of women who regularly used decorative cosmetics no longer put make-up on their lips under the mask. The proportion of women who used make-up daily decreased by half. The trend is now strongly moving towards skin care and wellness at the expense of color cosmetics (Premium Beauty News, July 12, 2020). Surveys in France, Germany and U.K. confirm this. Of those over 55, 46% say they have more often taken up beauty and body care activities to promote their health. Of the 16-34 year olds, 45% say they do this to reduce stress and anxiety. Overall, 59% said that beauty and body care activities were used to have a good time (Mintel survey, 2020).
In uncertain times, people want to feel safe and secure. This leads to a strong demand for cosmetics that care for consumers and make them feel good. In other words, products with fragrances and active ingredients that help people to relax and cope better with stress. The personal care industry can respond with more positive and emotional marketing. However, the products must also be effective enough to generate long-term trust and interest, which is very important for emotional products.Note de contenu : - Behavioural changes
- What happens above the mask ?
- What happens under the mask ?
- RAHN offers various cosmetic actives as a solution
- SEBOCLEAR TM-MP takes care of the causes of maskne
- Fig. 1 : The application of 2 % LIFTONIN®-XPRESS leads to an immediate reduction of wrinkles. In less than a minute
- Fig. 2 : After 2 hours of wearing a simple protective mask, the TEWL increases by almost 75%
- Fig. 3 : 3 DEFENSIL® maintains control of the skin barrier after irritation with SLS
- Fig. 4 : DEFENSIL®-SOFT can reduce skin irritation and discomfort within 3–5 minutes. It prevents heat-related transepidermal water loss, reduces microcirculation and skin redness
- Fig. 5 : Single tape stripping simulates a damage of the skin barrier, as one can imagine a mechanical abrasion of corneocytes under a mask
- Fig. 6 : SEBOCLEARTM-MP reduces corynebacteria and propionibacteria and promotes healthy skin microflora, recognizable by the reduction of porphyrin-positive pores. It reduces the number of inflamed papules, which can develop into acne pimples when irritated
- Formulation : Example of a formulation perfectly designed to strengthen the skin barrier and prevent maskne when wearing face masksEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vED2H2y0eBttiOdg8yzxQ4Sptlmuac_k/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34597
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 26-32[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)
Titre : Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 6-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits de beauté masculins
Soins de beauté masculins
Tatouage
Tests d'efficacité
VergeturesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Men’s care is a difficult topic. Although the number of new product launches for men is steadily increasing (Mintel GNPD database July 2019), it seems that the use of cosmetic products by men is still mostly restricted to basic needs: rinsing, washing and hygiene products, deodorants, sun care and beard and hair care products. The use of anti-ageing formulations and creams for long-term protection of the skin still appear not to be of particular interest to male consumers. Note de contenu : - Introduction : 1. Targeted applications specifically design to meet men's needs - 2. "Masculine" ingredients - A medium for differentiation - 3. "Masculine" claims - A medium for differentiation - 4. "Masculine" efficacy testing - A way to convince men to use cosmetics
- Concepts for targeted applications
- (After) tattoo care
- Stretch marks
- Cosmetics for hard-working men
- Combining "masculine" ingredientsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-ZqMbFlvEfu8VkG2uLLwkmmQKZINWzS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33145
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 6-12[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21167 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Titre : CELLACTIVE - Care for hair and climate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires
Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Follicule pileux
KératinocytesLes kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure.
L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) :
1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme)
2. stratum spinosum
3. stratum granulosum
4. stratum lucidum
5. stratum corneum
Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme.
Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis).Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The microalga Chlorella vulgaris and the white lupin are well known sources of valuable nutritional building blocks such as amino acids, proteins and carbohydrates. Both superfoods are combined together in CELLACTIVE®, the Carbon Neutral Essential Cell Boost-Factor for skin and hair. The active ingredient promotes the integrity of the integumentary system and it encourages the longevity of hair follicles. Furthermore, it improves hair quality parameters such as the anti-static effect and structure.
Thanks to a dedicated carbon footprint calculation and neutralisation of produced carbon dioxide, CELLACTIVE® paves the way for a new generation of climate-neutral cosmetic active ingredients with excellent transparency across their whole supply chain while assumption of social responsibility compensates for any unavoidable emissions.Note de contenu : - The "kings of superfood" : Chlorella vulgaris - the power of microalgae - Lupinus albus protein - nutraceutical seed
- Hair - From root to tip
- Material and methods : In vitro
- Results and discussion : ECM integrity promotion (in-vitro study) - Increase of keratinocytes viability (in-vitro study) - Serum for hair follicles (ex-vivo study) - Improvement of the quality of damaged hair (ex-vivo study)En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1y6MGZMiiLC_BA5FIe9cnIglbZKkieK8U/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32284
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019) . - p. 12-17[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20826 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Titre : More than morning coffee for yours eyes Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 43-46 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Artichaud et constituants
Biomolécules actives
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PolysaccharidesLes polysaccharides (parfois appelés glycanes, polyosides, polyholosides ou glucides complexes) sont des polymères constitués de plusieurs oses liés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques.
Les polyosides les plus répandus du règne végétal sont la cellulose et l’amidon, tous deux polymères du glucose.
De nombreux exopolysaccharides (métabolites excrétés par des microbes, champignons, vers (mucus) du ver de terre) jouent un rôle majeur - à échelle moléculaire - dans la formation, qualité et conservation des sols, de l'humus, des agrégats formant les sols et de divers composés "argile-exopolysaccharide" et composites "organo-minéraux"(ex : xanthane, dextrane, le rhamsane, succinoglycanes...).
De nombreux polyosides sont utilisés comme des additifs alimentaires sous forme de fibre (inuline) ou de gomme naturelle.
Ce sont des polymères formés d'un certain nombre d'oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : -[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1). On distingue deux catégories de polysaccharides : Les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes ; les hétéropolysaccharides (ou hétéroglycanes) formés de différents monosaccharides : hémicelluloses.
Les constituants participant à la construction des polysaccharides peuvent être très divers : hexoses, pentoses, anhydrohexoses, éthers d'oses et esters sulfuriques.
Selon l'architecture de leur chaîne, les polysaccharides peuvent être : linéaires : cellulose ; ramifiés : gomme arabique, amylopectine, dextrane, hémicellulose et mixtes : amidon.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The most delicate skin on our body is found around the eyes, so-called periorbital skin. Regardless of what skin type one has, you may assume that everyone has more or less sensitive skin in that area. This part of our body is always exposed to environmental conditions and is a mirror of how we feel. Therefore, it deserves special attention and intensive care. Rahn has developed a natural product with an ingenious combination of different xanthines, artichoke extract and the fructan polysaccharide (levan) addressing the problem of dark circles and puffy eyes. It successfully reduces eye bag volume and any associated skin discolouration, and rejuvenates the eye area. Note de contenu : - Eye bag volume / skin roughness
- Dark circles
- Photographic documentationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lE97UGNUoMS-yWMeJ7aLhMmYPLxK77pR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31279
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018) . - p. 43-46[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20328 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Titre : A multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 46-52 Note générale : Bibliogr.
Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acné L'acné (nom féminin) est une dermatose (maladie de la peau) inflammatoire des follicules pilosébacés (glandes sécrétant le sébum, à la racine des poils) avec formation de comédons.
Cette maladie de la peau est représentée dans sa forme la plus fréquente par l'acné polymorphe juvénile qui touche les adolescents, mais qui ne résume pas toutes les acnés. Il existe aussi des acnés exogènes d'origine professionnelle, médicamenteuse, cosmétique...
Biomolécules actives
Dermo-cosmétologie
Flavonoïdes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
SéborrhéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Prevention of acne or reduction of oily skin are challenging tasks for the cosmetic industry. Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids are all specialized ingredients to either control corneocyte shedding, the microflora or to reprogram the cell's biochemistry. All of them are efficient specialists but no all-rounders. However, there are at least four trigger factors for the development of acne: activity of sebocytes, dihydrotestosterone level, inflammation and skin microbiota. It is difficult to develop active ingredients, which are suitable to cover all necessary needs to improve oily skin and as such, they are rare on the market. Additionally, very effective agents tend to irritate the skin and, like retinoic acid, are in most countries only available as prescriptive drugs from the dermatologist in effective concentrations.
Acne vulgaris affects about 80 % of adolescents and young adults aged 11-30 years. Also in aged people, persistent acne is common in the Western civilizations. According to "The International Dermal Institute" 40 to 55 % of the adult population in the age of 20-40 have signs of persistent acne and oily skin. It is a major problem leading to discomfort, lowered self-confidence and the tendency to distract oneself from social life. Inflammation, hormonal state, activity of sebocytes and the skin microflora have influence on the development of acne. To prevent acne formation, normalization of oily skin is key. Oily skin is mainly caused by a chronic subliminal inflammatory state of the skin leading to a subtle change of the expressome of sebocytes. This leads to excess sebum — the ideal nutrition for unwanted microbes like Propionibacterium acnes, which in turn aggravates inflammation and further increases sebum production. As such, also a disturbed microflora can trigger the appearance of acne. Additionally, the hormonal state of the skin plays an important role: excess of dihydrotestosterone, derived from testosterone or 17-hydroxyprogesterone fuels the sebum production and inflaienmation. With SEBOCLEARTM-MP (INCI : Propanediol, Bioflavonoids), all four trigger factors of acne development are controlled to reach superior efficacy on acne prone skin.Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The skin types : role of the steroid α-reductase - An elevated inflammatory state is an underlying condition of acne prone skin
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Inhibition of the steroid α-reductase - Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing enzymes - In vivo study - Bioflavonoids reduce signs of acne (in vivo study)
- RESULTS : Bioflavonoids directly inhibit steroid α-reductase - Bioflavonoids shut down inflammation by blocking arachidonic acid processing enzymes - Maclura cochinchinensis extract reduces signs of acne (in vivo study)
- Fig. 1 : The hormonal state of our body changes during lifetime. Starting with puberty, the sex hormones estradiol and testosterone rise dramatically in females or males, respectively. While in males, testosterone declines only subtle within a second half of life, women experience a rapid drop of of estradiol during menopause. Dta compiled from
- Fig. 2 : Sebum production during lifetime. The sebum amount corresponds roughly to the sex hormone levels of androgens in males and estrogens in females. Dta compiled [5-8]
- Fig. 3 : Inhibition of arachidonic acid processing counteracts the development of acne. The inflammatory mediators prostaglandins and leukotrienes are produced by the COX-1/COX-2 and 5-LPO enzymes from arachidonic acid. Inhibition of both pathways is required to shut down inflammation and to prevent an acne prone skin condition
- Fig. 4 : Maclura cochinchinensis extract blocks the activity of steroid 5a-reductase. It prevents the generation of the highly active dihy¬drotestosterone from testosterone
- Fig. 5 : Maclura bioflavonoids inhibit both pathways of inflammatory mediator generation from arachidonic acid. At a concentration of 0.1 %, Madura cochinchinensis extract significantly inhibits the constitutively expressed COX-1, as well as the inducible COX-2, elevated in acne prone and ageing skin. Also the activity of 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) is almost completely blocked
- Fig. 6 :Maclura bioflavonoids decrease the number of active seba¬ceous glands. Compared to placebo, the number of active glands was significantly reduced after 84 days. Wilcoxon signed rank test
- Fig. 7 : Maclura bioflavonoids are effective against open and closed comedones. After 84 days, open and closed comedones were significantly reduced. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo
- Fig. 8 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce porphyrines. After 84 days, the porphyrins were significantly reduced proving a reduction of sebum and settlement of P. acnes
- Fig. 9 : The total lesion count is significantly reduced after application of 3 % Maclura cochinchinensis extract. After 84 days, the total lesions including inflammatory spots were reduced by 35 %. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to comparison with baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with placebo
- Fig. 10 : Maclura bioflavonoids reduce inflammatory spots. After 84 days, red spots were significantly reduced by 22 % over baseline and placebo. Wilcoxon signed rank test. Statistical values in black refer to baseline while values in blue refer to comparison with comparison with placeboEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1esjtx3MxNzKOyXzYjNyqPEBJB4R2piG3/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31329
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018) . - p. 46-52[article]Réservation
Réserver ce document
Exemplaires (1)
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20515 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
Permalink
Permalink
Permalink
Permalink
PermalinkPermalink
