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Alabaster like skin with tannin and botanical silicon / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 3 (03/2017)
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Titre : Alabaster like skin with tannin and botanical silicon Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 18-21 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Collagène
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pigmentation de la peau
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie
TaninsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An even complexion is key to youthful skin appearance. While the reduction of spots and unbalanced skin tone is an obvious approach to achieve an even complexion, skin texture does contribute significantly to the skin's aspect. Here we show that the use of tannic acid combined with millet seed extract providing bioavailable silicon can level out an uneven texture by strenghtening the dermal collagen network with high significance in vivo. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XScXjxXPZww7g62WSjYwbQUaKm50dX6I/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28197
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 143, N° 3 (03/2017) . - p. 18-21[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18743 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
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Titre : Analysis of 'The trilogy of lifting' Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 167-172 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Biomolécules actives
Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Wrinkle minimization is the Holy Grail of cosmetic actives development. Since the creation of the first anti-aging formulations, the topic has been explored from every angle.
The easiest way is of course to cover the skin with foundations to hide those unattractive features of skin ageing. But besides this use of camouflage, there is more which can be done. To understand how to improve or preserve the youthful appearance of the skin we need to know about its underlying biology.
The skin is composed basically of three layers: the subcutaneous adipose tissue, the dermis and the epidermis, which protects the body from the environment. Wrinkles only develop in the dermis and epidermis. Because of this, it is important to keep these tissues in a juvenile state.
The dermis is a very strong and resilient tissue, which is responsible for the skin’s firmness and elasticity as well as its hydration. You can think of it in terms of a piece of leather as that is what it actually is; a tightly packed protein mesh consisting mainly of collagen,1 which is responsible for the firmness together with elastin, which is responsible for the elasticity. This tissue is supplemented by moisture-retaining molecules such as hyaluronic acid and proteoglycans.
The epidermis is even stronger than the dermis and is held together by a huge network of keratin that forms interconnections between the cells of the upper epidermis.
It is easy to understand that the firm and elastic skin we had in our childhood requires sufficient quantities of the important components and that any decrease in these, e.g. in collagen and elastin, will affect the restoring potential of the skin. You can readily observe this in real life: if you pinch the skin of a child on the back of their hand, you will see that the skin retracts immediately when you let it go. In contrast, when you do the same to a person aged 80 years and older, this can take up to a minute or even longer.
Wrinkles appear at regions where the dermal proteins collagen and elastin are less dense and where the connectivity of the dermis with the epidermis is weakened. This does not happen by chance but is the result of continuous repeated mechanical forces acting on the skin. The first mechanical forces that do this are involved in movement and as a result, the very first wrinkles we have are on the joints of our fingers and palms that are already there when we are born. So, whatever moves will cause wrinkles to develop and therefore our facial expressions will make wrinkles appear on our face sooner or later.
Rahn has developed three solutions in its Liftonin® range to fight wrinkles using completely different approaches :
1. Liftonin-Xpress, the instant wrinkle minimizer that employs a surface-acting biopolymer blend.
2. Liftonin for alabaster-like skin is an epidermal astringent thanks to the tannins it contains while it also stabilizes the dermal structure by providing bioavailable silicon.
3. Liftonin-Xpert Eco, the smart and ecological collagen manager improves dermal density by delivering the perfect amount of additional youth collagen.Note de contenu : - Instant wrinkle minimizer
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) - Pullulan - Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
- For alabaster-like skin
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Tannins and tannic acid: natural astringents derived from oak gallnut - Millet Seed Extract: bioavailable silicon for strong connective tissue
- Smart collagen management
- Functional ingredients and efficacy : Mannan from Bulbine frutescensleaf juice
- Formulation : Ageless eye serumEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19rAZjKHvb_qE3DJKUPeHMox36O_ah7W5/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33970
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 167-172[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21621 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Beauty and the mask - eyes only : How wearing a face mask affects the choice of the right skin care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Consommateurs -- Attitudes
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Masques antimicrobiens
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Perte insensible en eau
Solutions (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Behavioural changes : Within a very short period of time, wearing a face mask has led women to focus more on the eye area when applying make-up. A survey by the French IFOP showed that 44% of women who regularly used decorative cosmetics no longer put make-up on their lips under the mask. The proportion of women who used make-up daily decreased by half. The trend is now strongly moving towards skin care and wellness at the expense of color cosmetics (Premium Beauty News, July 12, 2020). Surveys in France, Germany and U.K. confirm this. Of those over 55, 46% say they have more often taken up beauty and body care activities to promote their health. Of the 16-34 year olds, 45% say they do this to reduce stress and anxiety. Overall, 59% said that beauty and body care activities were used to have a good time (Mintel survey, 2020).
In uncertain times, people want to feel safe and secure. This leads to a strong demand for cosmetics that care for consumers and make them feel good. In other words, products with fragrances and active ingredients that help people to relax and cope better with stress. The personal care industry can respond with more positive and emotional marketing. However, the products must also be effective enough to generate long-term trust and interest, which is very important for emotional products.Note de contenu : - Behavioural changes
- What happens above the mask ?
- What happens under the mask ?
- RAHN offers various cosmetic actives as a solution
- SEBOCLEAR TM-MP takes care of the causes of maskne
- Fig. 1 : The application of 2 % LIFTONIN®-XPRESS leads to an immediate reduction of wrinkles. In less than a minute
- Fig. 2 : After 2 hours of wearing a simple protective mask, the TEWL increases by almost 75%
- Fig. 3 : 3 DEFENSIL® maintains control of the skin barrier after irritation with SLS
- Fig. 4 : DEFENSIL®-SOFT can reduce skin irritation and discomfort within 3–5 minutes. It prevents heat-related transepidermal water loss, reduces microcirculation and skin redness
- Fig. 5 : Single tape stripping simulates a damage of the skin barrier, as one can imagine a mechanical abrasion of corneocytes under a mask
- Fig. 6 : SEBOCLEARTM-MP reduces corynebacteria and propionibacteria and promotes healthy skin microflora, recognizable by the reduction of porphyrin-positive pores. It reduces the number of inflamed papules, which can develop into acne pimples when irritated
- Formulation : Example of a formulation perfectly designed to strengthen the skin barrier and prevent maskne when wearing face masksEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vED2H2y0eBttiOdg8yzxQ4Sptlmuac_k/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34597
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 10 (10/2020) . - p. 26-32[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019)
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Titre : Can active ingredients improve the reach of men care products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Sandra Breitenbach, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 6-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits de beauté masculins
Soins de beauté masculins
Tatouage
Tests d'efficacité
VergeturesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Men’s care is a difficult topic. Although the number of new product launches for men is steadily increasing (Mintel GNPD database July 2019), it seems that the use of cosmetic products by men is still mostly restricted to basic needs: rinsing, washing and hygiene products, deodorants, sun care and beard and hair care products. The use of anti-ageing formulations and creams for long-term protection of the skin still appear not to be of particular interest to male consumers. Note de contenu : - Introduction : 1. Targeted applications specifically design to meet men's needs - 2. "Masculine" ingredients - A medium for differentiation - 3. "Masculine" claims - A medium for differentiation - 4. "Masculine" efficacy testing - A way to convince men to use cosmetics
- Concepts for targeted applications
- (After) tattoo care
- Stretch marks
- Cosmetics for hard-working men
- Combining "masculine" ingredientsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-ZqMbFlvEfu8VkG2uLLwkmmQKZINWzS/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33145
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 9 (09/2019) . - p. 6-12[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21167 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible
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Titre : Can fermentation "preserve" the skin ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Brigit Suter, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 24-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Dermo-cosmétologie
Eczéma constitutionnel
EnzymesUne enzyme est une protéine dotée de propriétés catalytiques. Pratiquement toutes les biomolécules capables de catalyser des réactions chimiques dans les cellules sont des enzymes ; certaines biomolécules catalytiques sont cependant constituées d'ARN et sont donc distinctes des enzymes : ce sont les ribozymes.
Une enzyme agit en abaissant l'énergie d'activation d'une réaction chimique, ce qui accroît la vitesse de réaction. L'enzyme n'est pas modifiée au cours de la réaction. Les molécules initiales sont les substrats de l'enzyme, et les molécules formées à partir de ces substrats sont les produits de la réaction. Presque tous les processus métaboliques de la cellule ont besoin d'enzymes pour se dérouler à une vitesse suffisante pour maintenir la vie. Les enzymes catalysent plus de 5 000 réactions chimiques différentes2. L'ensemble des enzymes d'une cellule détermine les voies métaboliques qui peuvent avoir lieu dans cette cellule. L'étude des enzymes est appelée enzymologie.
Les enzymes permettent à des réactions de se produire des millions de fois plus vite qu'en leur absence. Un exemple extrême est l'orotidine-5'-phosphate décarboxylase, qui catalyse en quelques millisecondes une réaction qui prendrait, en son absence, plusieurs millions d'années3,4. Comme tous les catalyseurs, les enzymes ne sont pas modifiées au cours des réactions qu'elles catalysent, et ne modifient pas l'équilibre chimique entre substrats et produits. Les enzymes diffèrent en revanche de la plupart des autres types de catalyseurs par leur très grande spécificité. Cette spécificité découle de leur structure tridimensionnelle. De plus, l'activité d'une enzyme est modulée par diverses autres molécules : un inhibiteur enzymatique est une molécule qui ralentit l'activité d'une enzyme, tandis qu'un activateur de cette enzyme l'accélère ; de nombreux médicaments et poisons sont des inhibiteurs enzymatiques. Par ailleurs, l'activité d'une enzyme décroît rapidement en dehors de sa température et de son pH optimums.
Fermentation
Hydratation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Visage -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Fermentation preserves food by displacing unwanted microorganisms. Does it work in the same way with skin ? Fermented products are becoming increasingly popular in the food sector. Although it is an ancient process for preserving food, fermentation is a very modern topic, including in the cosmetics industry. It is known that certain lactic acid bacteria such as Lactobacillus sakei can positively affect atopic dermatitis (taken orally). Here we show that millet ferment, produced with lactic acid bacteria from sourdough production, can also positively influence atopic skin when applied topically. We demonstrated that bacteria of a healthy skin microbiota can gain a growth advantage and thus lead the skin out of dryness stress. A dermatological assessment of the atopic condition showed a rapid reduction of symptoms even compared to placebo-treated areas. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Homo and hetero fermantative lactic acid fermentation in summary
- Fig. 2 : Promotion of the growth of various skin germs. Staphylococcus epidermidis is strongly positively regulated
- Fig. 3 : Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss on the face and atopic sites. The active ingredient can increase skin hydration at atopic sites by up to 140%
- Fig. 4 : Dermatological assessment of atopic conditions. Symptoms of atopic dermatitis are highly significantly reduced with active ingredient after 2 weeks, significantly faster than with placebo
- Fig. 5 : Improvements in facial skin (left) and atopic sites (right) with the active ingredient
- Table 1 : Comparison of ingredients before and after fermentation. Polysaccharides and sugars are completely converted into organic - acids and ethanol. Minerals can be released more effectivelyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1avHNL99BQJk_JlflfbDdppFWfVzae2Pn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36553
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 10 (10/2021) . - p. 24-29[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22967 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible CELLACTIVE - Care for hair and climate / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 4 (04/2019)
PermalinkPermalinkGenderless cosmetics with gender-specific efficacy / Emina Besic Gyenge in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
PermalinkA global consumer journey in scalp care / Chiara Degl'Innocenti in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 25, N° 4 (04/2024)
PermalinkIn active we trust : sustainability, traceability and transparency in cosmetics / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 11 (11/2020)
PermalinkMinimal care - spa-feeling for skin and hair / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)
PermalinkMore than morning coffee for yours eyes / Emina Besic Gyenge in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
PermalinkA multifunctional solution for acne prone skin with a single natural active ingredient / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 10 (10/2018)
PermalinkNatural alternatives for retinoic-acid-like anti-ageing / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 3 (06/2018)
PermalinkNatural skin barrier supplement to resist artificial radiation / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 10 (10/2019)
PermalinkA new class of tyrosinase inhibitors for skin luminosity / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 4 (04/2024)
PermalinkA personal Faraday shield for a radiant, high-tech world / Stefan Hettwer in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)
PermalinkPsoriasis - Plant based approach to strengthen the skin's immune system / Stefan Hettwer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 6 (06/2022)
PermalinkPumpkin seed extract to boost skin energy / Stefan Hettwer in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 4 (04/2023)
PermalinkRise above the maze of "clean beauty" - RAHN-cosmetics actives' approach / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 5 (05/2021)
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