| Titre : |
Skin-lightening agent with different pathways of action on melanogenesis |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
S. John, Auteur ; P. Lorenz, Auteur ; R.-D. Petersen, Auteur ; Martina Heldermann, Auteur ; S. Borchert, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2005 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 40-49 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Agents de blanchiment
Cosmétiques
|
| Tags : |
'Bellis perennis' 'Blanchiment de la peau' 'Expression tyrosinase' 'Inhibition tyrosinase ROS 'Scannage par superoxyde (O2-)' mélanine' Mélanosome MC1-R ?-MSH Endothéline-1 (ET-1) |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
A novel botanical ingredient -trade name: Belides - obtained from daisy flower blossoms (Bellis perennis L.) consists of bioactive constituents such a saponins (triterpene glycosides), polyphenols and polysaccharides. The presence of these constituents suggests that this active produces a variety of effects which are also used in phytomedicine. Surprisingly, Belides was found to exhibit a strong inhibitory effect on melanogenesis (patent pending). The fraction of polyphenols is known to inhibit tyrosinase enzymatic activity. results of a comparative study conducted with Belides and aubutin, used at equivalent polyphenol concentrations, revealed that Belides was about twice as active as arbutin. Tests carried out on melanoma cells (B16V) have shown that Belides controls transcription of tyrosinase expression, thus inhibiting its synthesis. In addiction, Belides has been found to significantly decrease the release of the peptide hormone endothelin (ET-1), the binding capacity of alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormaone) on the melanocortin receptor-1 (MC1-R) and also melanosome uptake mechanisms. Furthermore, results of a pilot study performed on human volunteers demonstrate the in vivo skin-lightening efficacy of Belides. Belides is recommended for use in skin-lightening cosmetics and in case of pigmentation disorders, hyperpigmentation or age spots. |
| Note de contenu : |
- INTRODUCTION : The plant
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Manufacturing process of Belides - Total polyphenol content - Speroxide scavenging(O2-) capacity - Tyrosinase enzymatic activity - Melanin inhibition assay - Enzymatic quantification of tyrosinase expression - Endothelin-1 (ET-1) assay - The alpha-MSH assay - Phagocytosis activity of keratinocytes as a function of melanosome uptake - Skin-lightening efficacy test on human volunteers (in vivo pilot study) |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=28130 |
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 131, N° 7 (07/2005) . - p. 40-49
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