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A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics / Tetsuji Hirao in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 103-109 Titre : A novel non-invasive evaluation method of cornified envelope maturation in the stratum corneum provides a new insight for skin care cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tetsuji Hirao, Auteur ; Motoji Takahashi, Auteur ; Katsuko Kikuchi, Auteur ; Tadashi Terui, Auteur ; Hachiro Tagami, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 103-109 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Stratum  corneum'  'Enveloppe  cornifiée'  Involucrine  Transglutaminase  'Méthode  non-invasive' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cornified envelopes, which are rigid and insoluble structures surrounding the corneocytes, are assembled by cross-linking of several precursor proteins by transglutaminases and provide the basis for barrier function of the stratum corneum. We have recently established a novel double staining method to evaluate the level of cornified envelope maturity in stratum corneum samples collected by non-invasive tape stripping, in order to examine the relationship between cornified envelope maturation and barrier function. This method is based on both loss of involucrin antigenicity and acquisition of hydrophobicity during cornified envelope maturation. We applied it to various kinds of skin and found that immature cornified envelopes were abundant not only in involved areas of inflammatory dermatoses, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, but also in the face of healthy subjects, and were associated with impaired barrier function of the stratum corneum. The appearance of immature cornified envelope in the face was heterogeneous and was not dependent on the race or age of the subjects. Ex-vivo incubation of the outermost stratum corneum of the face in a humidified environment resulted in conversion of immature cornified envelopes to mature cornified envelopes, mediated by transglutaminases. This maturation process was inhibited under low humidity conditions and recovered on application of moisturizers to stratum corneum samples prior to the incubation. These results suggest that immature cornified envelopes in the face retain the potential ability to mature and that moisturization helps the maturation. These ex-vivo results were consistent with in-vivo findings that immature cornified envelopes in the face were increased in winter season, and that cornified envelope maturation was promoted by daily skin care treatment with a moisturizing cream. Although many studies on the stratum corneum barrier function have been carried out mainly focusing on the role of the intercellular lipids, our present studies may provide the basis for a new approach to skin care cosmetics that will promote proper assembly of the stratum corneum through promoting the maturation of cornified envelopes. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10594 [article]

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The characteristics of a microcapsule made entirely from a new silicone-resign-polypeptide and its application / Yuka Ueda in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 111-116 Titre : The characteristics of a microcapsule made entirely from a new silicone-resign-polypeptide and its application Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yuka Ueda, Auteur ; Akihiro Segawa, Auteur ; Masato Yoshioka, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 111-116 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Microcapsule  'Absorbeurs  UV'  Encapsulation  Silicone  'Produit  de  protection  solaire' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A new method was developed to prepare microcapsules involving hydrophobic components and a totally new silicone-resin-polypeptide material used as the encapsulating body, where the polypeptide was made by hydrolysis of collagen and silk protein combined with silicone. This microcapsule was easily prepared from a silicone-resin-polypeptide in water solution. Not only was the extent of encapsulation in the micro-capsule as high as 90% (which has never been reached) but also the particle size was also homogeneous and could be sufficiently controlled to obtain very small sizes. Moreover, these microcapsules were resistant to relatively high shear forces and were stable over a long time period. Application in cosmetics by using the UV absorbers (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (BMDBM)) as the encapsulated ingredients was examined. Because the polymer acts like as surfactant itself, it was possible to apply organic UV absorbers in water-rich formulations without any surfactant. This formulation demonstrated a good moisturizing and soft skin feel. In addition, since the microcapsules were easily mixed with inorganic compounds like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, the amount of their dispersants could be reduced to maintain a high SPF value. As a result, it was concluded that such microcapsules might be widely applied in cosmetics. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10595 [article]

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Ceramides from wool : analysis and structure / L. Coderch in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 117-123 Titre : Ceramides from wool : analysis and structure Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : L. Coderch, Auteur ; Isabel Bondia, Auteur ; Jordi Fonollosa, Auteur ; Sandra Mendez, Auteur ; J. L. Parra, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 117-123 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Céramides Un céramide est un sphingolipide résultant de la combinaison d'un acide gras avec la sphingosine via une liaison amide. On trouve de telles molécules en abondance dans les membranes cellulaires, où elles entrent notamment dans la constitution des sphingomyélines. Les céramides ne jouent pas qu'un rôle structurel dans les membranes biologiques, et peuvent également revêtir des fonctions de signalisation lipidique. Leurs actions les mieux comprises vont de la différenciation cellulaire à la mort cellulaire programmée (apoptose) en passant par la prolifération cellulaire. Les acides gras qui les constituent ont généralement un nombre pair (de 16 à 24) d'atomes de carbone, sont saturés ou monoinsaturés, et sont souvent α-hydroxylés. La plupart des céramides n'existent pas à l'état naturel si ce n'est comme précurseurs de la biosynthèse des sphingolipides par une réaction d'addition sur la fonction alcool primaire de la sphingosine. (Wikipedia) Couche cornée Fourier, Spectroscopie infrarouge à transformée de Laine Lipides Résonance paramagnétique électronique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The crucial role played by intercellular lipids, especially the ceramides, in the epidermal permeability barrier properties of the skin has been demonstrated, reducing the transepidermal water loss and improving the regulation of skin hydratation. Extracts of internal wool lipids are rich in ceramide compounds, the composition of which resembles those present in membranes from other keratinous tissues such as human hair or stratum corneum. Analytical and structural studies of ceramides obtained from wool fibers and their comparison with those in the stratum corneum are presented to determine their suitability for designing new pharmaceutical or cosmetic products for skin care. Lipid extracts from these two keratinized tissues are qualitatively and quantitatively analysed by TLC/FID. Their bilayer structural organization as liposomes mimics the organized lipid structure present in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, their physicochemical study by FTIR and EPR enables us to characterize the domain organization and the conformation order of the differant ceramides in the bilayer assembly. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10596 [article]

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Development of an indicator thet quantifies the tendency of cosmetic product usage / C. Guinot in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 125-130 Titre : Development of an indicator thet quantifies the tendency of cosmetic product usage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : C. Guinot, Auteur ; J. Latreille, Auteur ; L. Ambroisine, Auteur ; Elodie Mauger, Auteur ; M. Tenenhaus, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 125-130 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Etude  marketing'  'Habitudes  cosmétiques'  'Utilisation  de  produit  cosmétique'  'Profils  des  utilisateurs' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this project was to produce an indicator (score) that quantifies the tendency of cosmetic product usage and could be used to describe individuals in consumer studies as well as in the selection process for sensory analysis studies or in application test studies. A study was conducted on a representative sample of 1000 women ot the Ile-de-France area to collect information on the cosmetic habits of each volunteer, i.e., the use of different types of cosmetic products. The Partial Least Square (PLS) path modelling approach, which allows theunderlying structure of the data to be taken into account, was used to produce a series of partial scores corresponding to homogeneous groups of products (body care, facial care, specific facial care, skin complexion, make-up, and sun care), and a global score summarizing the global tendency of cosmetic product use by balancing the different types of products. Then, the relevance of the global score was checked using behavioral and skin characteristic variables known to influence the use of cosmetic products. Twenty-seven cosmetic products grouped into 6 single-dimensional blocks were retained for the construction of the scores. Finally, an equation was produced to allow the calculation of each individual's global score directly from the initial data. As expected, our global score was found to be relevant to characterize specific groups of subjects : significant effects on the global score were found for the socio-professional category of the "main salary earner", habits such as voluntary sun exposure, sporting activities, importance of personal appearance, facial skin type, dryeness of body skin, and age. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10597 [article]

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The application of mixed micelle theory to personal care ingredients / John Gormley in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 133-138 Titre : The application of mixed micelle theory to personal care ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John Gormley, Auteur ; Chris Cook, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 133-138 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Concentration micellaire critique Micelles Parabènes Produits de toilette Surfactants Tags : 'Synergie  d'agent  tensio-actif'  'Théorie  régulière  de  solution'  'Compteur-irritation'  'Nettoyage  doux'  'Efficacité  des  parabens' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Specific surfactant blends may contribute to reduce irritation by synergistically lowering the critical micelle concentration (CMC)and the monomer level of the more irritating surfactant in bulk solution. A computer program was made and used to calculate molecular interaction parameters (beta) using the widely accepted regular solution theory. This information allowed for the prediction of monomer levels at and above the CMC in mixed surfactant solutions having known CMC values. Such information is included for a series of amphoteric surfactants interacting with SLES-2 at pH 7 and ranked according to their efficiency in lowering the free anionic monomer content in the bulk phase. There is strong debate over whether a correlation truly exists between skin irritancy and CMC techniques. This technique and software provide part of the data set that can help support of refuse such a correlation. This technique was also used to prescreen a developmental non-ionic surfactant for counter-irritancy with C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonates. The test surfactant was found to lack synergy with the anionic mixture, thus predicting that it would not be a milder system. This prescreening prevented testing this system on humans or animals. The model was extended to calculate the interaction of Polysorbate-20 with propylparaben. The free active level(ex-micelle) of preservative was calculated as a function of total amount of preservative added. A strong interaction reduced the unbound propylparaben concentration such that anti-microbial activity was lost. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10604 [article]

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