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Eugenyl glucoside as an active ingredient for hair re-growth agent : release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp and 5alpha-reductase inhibitory effect / Kazuto Hamada in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 83-87 Titre : Eugenyl glucoside as an active ingredient for hair re-growth agent : release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp and 5alpha-reductase inhibitory effect Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kazuto Hamada, Auteur ; Uchiwa Hideyo, Auteur ; Takeshi Ikemoto, Auteur ; Hiroyuki Nishio, Auteur ; Hirofumi Kuwahara, Auteur ; Yasushi Watanabe, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 83-87 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Eugenyl  glucoside'  Eugenol  Clove  'Release  control'  Anti-androgen  '5alpha-reductase  inhibitor'  'Androgenetic  alopecia'  'Hair  re-growth' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Clove bud oil is an important natural essential oil known to be effective in activating hair growth as well as blackening gray hair though its mechanisms remain clear. The main component of this oil is eugenol, which is used as a herbal remedy for a wide variety of diseases. However, eugenol typically has a spicy odor and is effective for a limited time only, due to its volatility. We investigate the fact that unopened clove buds contain odorless eugenyl glucoside as one of the precursors of eugenol and examined the effect of eugenyl glucoside in vitro, as well as its effect on hair re-growth in vivo. Eugenol generated from eugenyl glucoside showed a much stronger 5α-reductase inhibitory effect than other related compounds and plant extracts. Further, the release of eugenol from eugenyl glucoside on human scalp showed an increase that began from just after application, and remained sustained after 24 hours. In a clinical pilot study, the efficacy rate of a hair growth agent containing 0.5% eugenyl glucoside was 83.3%. No adverse reactions were observed in any patient throughout the study period. Moreover, a 0.5% dose of eugenyl glucoside showed a mitigative effect against alcohol. From our results, we concluded that eugenyl glucoside was a useful active ingredient that showed potential as an agent for hair re-growth. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10730 [article]

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The age dependant changes in skin condition in japanese females living in northern versus southern japan / Greg. G. Hillebrand in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 89-96 Titre : The age dependant changes in skin condition in japanese females living in northern versus southern japan Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Greg. G. Hillebrand, Auteur ; Beverly Schnell, Auteur ; K. Miyamoto, Auteur ; Masamitsu Ichihashi, Auteur ; Reiko Shinkura, Auteur ; Suminori Akiba, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 89-96 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Skin  Wrinkling  Hyperpigmentation  Photodamage  'Ultraviolet  radiation'  Sebum  Hydration  Imaging  Epidemiology Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Image analysis and biophysical methods were used to compare the skin condition of a group of females ranging in age from 5-65 years who had lived all of their lives in either Kagoshima prefecture (n=300), located in southern Japan, or Akita prefecture (n=302), located in northern Japan. Compared to Japanese women living in Akita, Japanese women living in Kagoshima had significantly longer facial wrinkles, higher number of wrinkles, larger hyperpigmented spots, higher number of spots, rougher facial skin texture, more yellow foreheads and upper inner arms, darker foreheads, and less stratum corneum hydration in the cheeks and arms. When compared on an age-for-age basis, the average 40 year-old Kagoshima women has the same level of facial wrinkling as a 48 year-old Akita women, an acceleration of 8 years for living in the more sunexposed southern latitude. For facial hyperpigmentation, the increase in onset is 16 years; the average 40 year-old Kagoshima women has the same level of facial hyperpigmentation as a 56 year-old Akita women. The results further testify to the skin damaging effects of sun exposure and may be useful in public health education to promote everyday sun protection. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10737 [article]

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Polycation substantivity to hair during shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing / Manuel Gamez-Garcia in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 99-107 Titre : Polycation substantivity to hair during shampoo application, foaming, and rinsing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Manuel Gamez-Garcia, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 99-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The formation of various colloidal structures and accompanying cationic polymer deposition during the application, foaming and rising of various model conditioning shampoos were analyzed. When the shampoos were applied to hair at a 1 to 10 dilution they frequently gave rise to the formation of coacervates or precipitates. During the lathering, the coacervates along with their cophases, were fully converted into foams. In the course of the rinsing step, foam dilution gave rise to the formation of aggregates which adsorbed onto the hair surface. Substantivity analyses demonstrated that polycation adsorption onto the hair surface during the application step is strongly dependent on whether or not a coacervate or precipitate is formed. The high substantivities characteristics of the coacervates, persisted during the foaming step. It was found that the coacervates in conjunction with their cophases partition within the foam between the walls of the foam lamella ("crust") and the lamellar liquid ("core"). Precipitates and other insoluble particles present in the shampoo were also seen to partition. The preferential partitioning or adsorption of coacervates onto the foam "crust" was found to depend on their surface activity while that of the insoluble particles was contingent on their contact angle. The results suggest that during shampoo rising the foam lamella reaches a critical dilution concentration at which polycations and insoluble particles flocculate giving rise to the formation of heterogeneous aggregates which adsorb onto the hair surface. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10738 [article]

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GMP and Natural Active Ingredients : A Tracer Method for Analytical Determination in Finished Products / Karl Lintner in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 109-112 Titre : GMP and Natural Active Ingredients : A Tracer Method for Analytical Determination in Finished Products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Karl Lintner, Auteur ; Viviane Genet, Auteur ; Catherine Julien, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 109-112 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : '6th  amendment'  'tracer  molecule'  biotin  'plant  extracts'  'complex  blends'  'analytical  determination'  'cosmetic  active  ingredients' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetic manufacturers are faced with increasingly demanding and complex legislation (GMP, 6th amendment). In order to help improve traceability of certain ingredients (in particular "Botanicals/Actives") in finished cosmetic formulas, we have developed a method that uses a tracer molecule for ascertaining and quantifying the presence of a specific, otherwise indefinable ingredient blend. The tracer molecule, biotin (vitamin H), detectable at ppb levels, fulfils the requirements of safety, stability, alalytical sensitivity and economics. The methodology, its advantages and shortcomings are discussed in this article. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10739 [article]

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Stress, Apoptosis and Ageing in Human Skin / Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 115-124 Titre : Stress, Apoptosis and Ageing in Human Skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; D. Gauché, Auteur ; G. Pauly, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 115-124 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin is exposed to a great number of different stress factors which can lead to structural and biological damages. In the case of important lesions, apoptosis is the witness of all these events and also a good marker of cell alterations. It is important to bring a good protection to these cells with active ingredients that can decrease the effect of these stresses. Our goal was to use different techniques of human cell cultures in-vitro and human skin explants ex-vivo to quantify apoptotic lesions induced by different stresses, to identify a couple of specifiq markers, and to select some active plant extracts acting against these stresses. First we have used the cell culture technique to estimate the apoptotic lesions provoked by different types of stress. Then we have confirmed these apoptotic lesions in human skin explants and identified 4 markers of apoptotic steps characteristic for our test conditions : Fas, APO 2.7, p53 and TUNEL technique. To study the ageing of skin we have used an original model of skin explants ex-vivo with deprivation of growth factors, similar to the deficiency found in ageing organs[5]. Finally in our search for new products, we found some active plant extracts which can prevent apoptotic cell lesions. In particular A.P.S. provided a good protection against lesions provoked by exhaust gas, and extracts of Cassia and Vigna provided a cytophotoprotection effect (against UV-irradiation) and an anti-ageing effect (against deprivation of growth factors) to epidermal cells. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10740 [article]

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The Protective Function of Compatible Solute Ectoin on the Skin, Skin Cells and its Biomolecules with Respect to UV-Radiation, Immunosupression and Membrane Damage / Joachim Bünger in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 2 (04-05-06/2001) . - p. 127-131 Titre : The Protective Function of Compatible Solute Ectoin on the Skin, Skin Cells and its Biomolecules with Respect to UV-Radiation, Immunosupression and Membrane Damage Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Bünger, Auteur ; Joachim Degwert, Auteur ; Hansjürgen Driller, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 127-131 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Ectoin  'membrane  protection'  'Langerhans  cells'  'sun  burn  'UV-induced  skin  damage',  'immune  suppression' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10744 [article]

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