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Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020)
[article]
Titre : Evaluation of alkenones, a renewably sourced, plant-derived wax as a structuring agent for lipsticks Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Christopher M. Reddy, Auteur ; Gregory W. O'Neil, Auteur ; Mark Chandler, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 146-155 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcénones Les alcénones (ou alkénones) sont des composés organiques (cétones) très résistants (et fossilisables) produits depuis des millions d'années par des algues phytoplanctoniques de la classe des Prymnesiophyceae. Leur rôle biologique exact dans la cellule reste débattu.
Analyse thermique
Cires -- Analyse
Cosmétiques
Couleur
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Maquillage
Rouges à lèvresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Waxes are used as structuring agents in lipsticks. There are a variety of waxes combined in a single lipstick to provide good stability, pleasant texture and good pay-off. Due to a significant growth for natural, green and sustainable products, there is a constant search for alternatives to animal-derived and petroleum-derived ingredients. In this study, a green, non-animalderived wax, namely long-chain ketones (referred to as alkenones), sourced from marine microalgae was formulated into lipsticks and evaluated as a structuring agent.
- METHODS : Alkenones were used as a substitute for microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and candelilla wax, typical structuring agents. In total, 384 lipsticks were formulated: L1 (control, no alkenones), L2 (alkenones as a substitute for ozokerite), L3 (alkenones as a substitute for microcrystalline wax) and L4 (alkenones as a substitute for candelilla wax). Products were tested for hardness (bending force), stiffness, firmness (needle penetration), pay-off (using a texture analyser and a consumer panel), friction, melting point and stability for 12 weeks at 25 and 45°C.
- RESULTS : Alkenones influenced each characteristic evaluated. In general, lipsticks with alkenones (L2-L4) became softer and easier to bend compared to the control (L1). In terms of firmness, lipsticks were similar to the control, except for L4, which was significantly (P < 0.05) firmer. The effect on pay-off was not consistent. L2 and L3 had higher pay-off to skin and fabric than L1. In addition, L4 had the lowest amount transferred, but it still had the highest colour intensity on skin. Alkenones influenced friction (glide) positively; the average friction decreased for L2-L4. The lowest friction (i.e. best glide) was shown in L4. Melting point of the lipsticks was lower when alkenones were present. Overall, L4, containing 7% of 4 alkenones in combination with microcrystalline wax, ozokerite and carnauba wax, was found to have the most desirable attributes, including ease of bending, high level of firmness, low pay-off in terms of amount, high colour intensity on skin and low friction (i.e. better glide). Consumers preferred L4 the most overall.
- CONCLUSION : Results of this study indicate that alkenones offer a sustainable, non-animal and non-petroleum-derived choice as a structuring agent for lipsticks.
Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS
- CONSUMER STUDY : Differential scanning analysis - Stability
- RESULTS : Hardness and stiffness - Needle penetration test - Pay-off - Consumer study - DSC - Stability studyDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12597 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lTh2efTQC9-1vrsOMJCh37twlXNzmSTp/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=34505
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 2 (04/2020) . - p. 146-155[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21862 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology / Gabriella Baki / Hoboken [USA] : John Wiley & Sons (2015)
Titre : Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriella Baki, Auteur ; Kenneth S. Alexander, Auteur Editeur : Hoboken [USA] : John Wiley & Sons Année de publication : 2015 Importance : XVIII-698 p. Présentation : ill. Format : 24 cm ISBN/ISSN/EAN : 978-1-118-76378-0 Prix : 136 E Note générale : Index - Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : I. GENERAL CONCEPTS : 1. Basic definitions - Classification of cosmetic and OTC drug - 2. Cosmetic products. Cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients used in cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products - 3. Dosage forms for cosmetic and OTC drug-cosmetic products
II. LEGISLATION FOR COSMETIC AND OTC DRUG-COSMETIC PRODUCTS : 1. Current rules and regulations for cosmetic and TOC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union - 2. Labelling tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products marketed in the United States - 3. Government and independent organizations in the cosmetic industry - 4. Cosmetic godd manufacturing practices
III. SKIN CARE PRODUCTS : 1. Skin anatomy and physiology - 2. Skin cleansing products - 3. Skin moisturizing products - 4. Products for special skin concerns - Aging and acne - 5. Sun care products - 6. Deodorants and antiperspirants
IV. COLOR COSMETICS : 1. Lip makeup products - 2. Eye makeup products - 3. Facial makeup products - 4. Nail care products
V. HAIR CARE PRODUCTS : 1. Hair anatomy and physiology - 2. Hair cleansing and conditioning products - 3. Hair styling products, hair straightening products, and hair waving products - 4. Hair coloring products
VI. ORAL AND DENTAL CARE PRODUCTS
VII. OTHER PRODUCTS : 1. Hair removal products - 2. Baby care products - 3. Sunless tanning products - 4. Feminine hygiene products
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17721 668.5 BAK Monographie Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick / Briana Maktabi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021)
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Titre : Meadowfoam seed oil as a natural dispersing agent for colorants in lipstick Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Briana Maktabi, Auteur ; Matthew W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 484-493 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cosmétiques
Couleur
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Huiles et graisses végétales
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Limnanthe et constituants
Maquillage
Rouges à lèvres
StatistiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Green and sustainable trends are growing and with that the demand for naturally derived ingredients is rising. Dispersing agents are essential components of lipsticks due to their ability to wet pigment particles, reduce agglomerates and prevent re-agglomeration by stabilizing pigment particles. In this study, meadowfoam seed oil was evaluated as a pigment-dispersing agent for lipsticks and compared with castor oil and octyldodecanol.
- Methods : Dispersions of Red 7 Lake were formulated with 20, 30 and 40% solid content using castor oil, octyldodecanol or meadowfoam seed oil. Particle size, viscosity, spreadability, wetting, oil absorption and colour were measured. Four of the nine dispersions were then formulated into lipsticks, including all the 30% pigment dispersions and the 40% dispersion with meadowfoam seed oil. Lipsticks were tested for hardness, pay-off, friction, rheology, colour and stability for 4 weeks.
- Results : Average particle size was between 6 and 9 µm across the dispersions. The castor oil dispersions were more viscous, stickier and harder to spread than the other dispersions. The wetting contact angle was very low for all three dispersing agents, indicating that all of the oils wet the pigment well. The lipsticks varied in hardness, as expected, based on differences in the viscosity of the dispersing agents, and oil absorption of the powder. Red 7 Lake absorbed the highest amount of castor oil, which contributed to higher stick hardness. The castor oil lipstick and the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment were the hardest and most elastic. The octyldodecanol lipstick was the softest. Friction was the lowest for the meadowfoam seed oil lipstick containing 40% pigment, while pay-off was the highest for the octyldodecanol lipstick. The colour of the lipsticks as a stick and after being spread on paper was very similar.
- Conclusion : While the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the dispersing agents were different, all three dispersing agents studied formed dispersions and lipsticks with appropriate characteristics. Meadowfoam seed oil's performance was qualitatively and quantitatively similar to castor oil and octyldodecanol. By modifying the amount of pigment and dispersing agent used, lipsticks that have similar characteristics to commercial products can be formulated.Note de contenu : - Materials
- Methods—Pigment dispersions
- Methods—Lipsticks
- Results—Pigment dispersions
- Results—Part II : Lipsticks
- Table 1 : Red 7 Lake dispersions made in this study
- Table 2 : Lipstick formula
- Table 3 : Firmness, stickiness, viscosity and colour of the dispersions
- Table 4 : Viscosity of dispersing agents, oil absorption of Red 7 Lake and contact angle (n = 3)DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12724 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uzbFy-4hbz4dUPtJe5ucx5OikMeTIXJ9/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36684
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 4 (08/2021) . - p. 484-493[article]Exemplaires
Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité aucun exemplaire Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions / An Huynh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)
[article]
Titre : Measurements meet perceptions : rheology-texture-sensory relations when using green, bio-derived emollients in cosmetic emulsions Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : An Huynh, Auteur ; A.G. Garcia, Auteur ; L. K. Young, Auteur ; M. Szoboszlai, Auteur ; M. W. Liberatore, Auteur ; Gabriella Baki, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 11-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Caractérisation
Cosmétiques -- Texture
Emollients
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Rhéologie
Statistique
Taille des gouttelettesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Product aesthetics and sensory performance can strongly influence a cosmetic product’s acceptance by consumers. However, classic sensory analysis is time-consuming, expensive and does not provide information on the target group’s preference. In the previous phase of this project, we had untrained consumers evaluate six cosmetic emulsions based on their aesthetics using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey. In this project, our goals were to quantitatively characterize the rheology and textural properties of the six cosmetic emulsions containing green, bio-derived emollients and identify statistical relationships between the consumers’ description of products and the instrumental measurements.
- Methods : Six emulsions were prepared—three with olive oil and three with heptyl undecylenate as an emollient. Four sensory-like attributes, namely firmness, work of shear, stickiness and adhesiveness, were tested using a texture analyser. Rheological characterization included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements. Droplet size and stability were also evaluated. Statistical relationships were quantified between measurements in this study and sensory survey results published previously.
- Results : The textural and rheological results indicated that the emulsions were different—as designed. The texture and rheology measurements had analogous grouping outcomes to the consumers’ discrimination. Emulsions 1 and 2 were the firmest, hardest to spread, stickiest and had the highest viscosity, while Emulsions 5 and 6 were the least firm, easiest to spread, less sticky than Emulsions 1 and 2, and had the lowest viscosity. Emulsions 3 and 4 fell in between the other two groups. Using olive oil instead of heptyl undecylenate as an emollient increased firmness, spreading, stickiness, viscosity and droplet size of the emulsions in every case—when comparing emulsions within each pair. All six emulsions had a shear-thinning behaviour. Viscosity and firmness directly correlated for the emulsions. Emulsions were visually stable at room temperature over the course of 6 months and viscosity remained relatively constant over this period also.
- Conclusion : Certain sensory attributes can be reliably predicted with instrumental measurements. Identifying and quantifying sensory–texture–rheology relationships can contribute to achieving appropriate product characteristics tailored to suit market needs.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS
- METHODS : Formulation of the emulsions - Viscosity and rheology - Texture analysis - Droplet size determination - Stability - Data analysis
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Texture analyser - Rheology - Droplet size - Stability - Relationship between rheology–texture–sensory characteristics
- Table 1 : Ingredients and percentage of ingredients in the emulsions used in this study
- Table 2 : Correlation matrix and scoring coefficients of instrumental variables
- Table 3 : Spreadability of the emulsions
- Table 4 : Power law parameters, viscosity, storage modulus and yield stress of the emulsions at 25°C
- Table 5 : Droplet size of emulsions (average ± SD)
- Table 6 : Summary statistics of indicators and CATA counts
- Table 7 : Univariate Poisson regression resultsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12661 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-SqGcJRQQ3LfzPJkuRqYczO4ClxJ5gW-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35439
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 11-19[article]Exemplaires
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