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Auteur Mathias Gempeler |
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Ajouter le résultat dans votre panier Affiner la rechercheAn extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo / Remo Campiche in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022)
Titre : An extract of Leontopodium alpinum inhibits catagen development ex vivo and increases hair density in vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Alizée Le Riche, Auteur ; Janin Edelkamp, Auteur ; Alfonso Fernandez Botello, Auteur ; Emmanuel Martin, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Marta Bertolini, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 363-376 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Edelweiss et constituants
Follicule pileux
Produits capillairesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : Hair loss and reduction in hair volume are hallmarks of hair disorders, such as telogen effluvium, or male or female pattern hair loss, and hair ageing, which can cause severe distress in both men and women. Common anti-hair loss drugs carry some side effects; therefore, novel, safer approaches targeting milder phenotypes are highly advocated. In this context, we investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss, Leontopodium alpinum var. Helvetia, for its ability to modulate hair follicle (HF) growth ex vivo and inhibit hair loss while increasing hair regeneration in vivo.
- Methods : Human amputated HFs were microdissected from three donors, two women and one man, and cultured ex vivo for 6 days. After treatment with 0.001% Edelweiss extract (EWDE), we investigated hair shaft production and anagen/catagen conversion, and measured known parameters associated with hair growth, that is hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation and apoptosis, dermal papilla inductivity, and growth factors, by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry. To assess the anti-hair loss potential of the alpine plant compound, we performed a randomized, placebo-controlled human study enrolling Caucasian women and men, aged 18 to 65 years, with normal hair loss. After 5 months’ daily use of an extract containing leave-on serum, we analysed hair density and anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio by the Trichogram analysis.
- Results : Our results revealed a significant prolongation in the anagen phase in HFs treated with 0.001% Edelweiss, as indicated by an increase in HFs remaining in anagen and a significant decrease in hair cycle score. In line with this effect, EWDE significantly stimulated hair matrix (HM) keratinocyte proliferation, and dermal papilla inductivity, as shown by a significant up-regulation of versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity, and a tendential increase in FGF7 immunoreactivity in the dermal papilla of all HFs or only anagen VI HFs. Corroborating the ex vivo results, we observed a significant increase in growing hair shaft numbers (hair density) after treatment with Edelweiss extract formulation, and a tendential up-regulation in the anagen-to-catagen/telogen ratio.
- Conclusions : We show here, through several lines of evidence, that the selected extract of the alpine plant Leontopodium alpinum var Helvetia (Edelweiss) inhibits premature catagen induction, possibly by stimulating dermal papilla inductivity. It is therefore worth exploiting this extract clinically as an anti-hair loss agent, both for preventing ageing-associated hair shedding and as an adjuvant therapy for hair loss disorders.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Donor material and information - Leontopodium alpinum extract preparation - Hair follicle organ culture and treatment - Frozen hair sample processing - Immunofluorescence - Histochemistry - Alkaline phosphatase in situ activity - Hair cycle staging and scoring - Hair follicle elongation/Hair shaft production - Clinical study
- RESULTS : Edelweiss extract prolongs anagen phase ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly stimulates hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation - Edelweiss extract stimulates dermal papilla inductivity ex vivo - Edelweiss extract significantly increases hair density in our study population - Edelweiss extract increases anagen/catagen-to-telogen ratioDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12783 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1roEyyeeGxdrMDR8pTlYOeFSjjusLGtvd/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38136
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 3 (06/2022) . - p. 363-376[article]Exemplaires
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Titre : Blue light induced hyperpigmentation in skin and how to prevent it Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rolf Schütz, Auteur ; Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Jürgen Vollhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues unicellulaires
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Etudes cliniques
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
Produits antisolaires
Protection cutanéeIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Unlike UV, to date her has been little clinical research int the immediate and chronic effects of blue light on skin. Therefore we aimed to specifically investigate skin hyperpigmentation in human subjects caused by blue light. Our initial study, the first of its kind, assessed hyperpigmentation induced by single, high-dose or repetitive, moderate doses of LED blue-light exposure in vivo. In a placebo-controlled trial the study substantiated the protective effects of an SPF 30 sunscreen formulation containing performance in the blue light range.Evidence from the literature further indicates an association between the exposure of skin to blue light and the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Previously, we demonstrated - through in vitro and ex vivo experiments - that a formulation containing a microalgae extract of Scenedesmus rubescens could enhance skin resilience to blue light-induced ROS formation. Here we report on the first clinical study with this microalgae product, which also confirms the protective effect against blue light irradiation in vivo. As a consequence we have developed a multi-mechanistic strategy for the prevention of hyperpigmentation caused by exposure to blue light. Note de contenu : - Clinical effects of LED blue light on skin pigmentation and sunscreen protection
- Protective effects of the natural microalga extract Scenedesmus rubescensEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RVXZOoPc2WSAwuK8VvNQG-OUin_4_N69/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32928
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 7/8 (07-08/2019) . - p. 12-17[article]Réservation
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Titre : Imaging and visualization : A game changer in claim substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Cosmétiques
Imagerie (technique)
Justification de l'allégation
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
VisageIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Visualizing the effects of skin treatment is a key aspect of claim substantiation and the successful promotion of skin care applications. To create visuals, we have employed innovative image acquisition and image processing technologies in various ways. For example, to visualize the effects of anti-aging skin care applications we have used wrinkle segmentation on high resolution images. And with our award-winning facial color mapping technology, we can readily show differences in skin hydration and detect areas of dry and well hydrated skin both in 2D and 3D. Recently, we extended this approach to map significance and relevance as well. In this article, we present an overview of the main imaging and visualization procedures we use to substantiate claims when promoting cosmetic actives. Note de contenu : - Image acquisition
- Continuous facial color mapping
- Mapping wrinkles through segmentationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z45KEBNEbuaL5-dwQ8GOqk8ln7bC8dLE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37014
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 18-22[article]Réservation
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Titre : New data on topical peptide for needle-free facial remodeling Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; Sonia Dawson, Auteur ; Remo Campiche Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 16-20 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Composés organiques -- Synthèse
Cosmétiques
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
PeptidesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan is a compound found in skin which is crucial to the smooth and full appearance of the face. It is frequently used as a filler injection in the cosmetic surgery industry. Since 2006, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. (DSM) has known that its proprietary peptide molecule SYN®HYCAN (INCI: Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate) was effective in significantly upregulating hyaluronic acid expression within the skin itself. The aim of the research presented here was to make its demonstrated efficacy tangible and visible with novel technologies.
The data shows just how much this peptide boosts HA synthesis in dermal and epidermal cells in vitro and ex vivo. Moreover, thanks to cutting-edge 3D visualization technology and a novel, non-contact compression device, we can see how this compound significantly improves skin volume and restores firmness across multiple facial areas in vivo. Human ileedback has also delivered useful results. Over 87 % of panelists reported that their skin felt supple and smooth and nearly 70 % confirmed that their skin had more elasticity.
DSM's peptide solution can therefore be used as an effective cosmetic alternative to dermal fillers or to enhance the effects of HA injections in between treatments.Note de contenu : - The rise and rise of hyaluronic acid
- Boosting HA with peptides
- In vitro studies
- New ex vivo study
- New in vivo studies
- An injection-free way to firmer facial skin
- Fig. 1 : Different facial zones that can be augmented by dermal fillers
- Fig. 2 : Mimicking TGFβ1 activation for increased HA synthesis
- Fig. 3 : HA synthesis in keratinocyte (Test A) and fibroblast (Test B) cell culture
- Fig. 4 : Tect C - increase in biosynthesis (%) after treatment with DSM's peptide, regular TGFβ1, and a control
- Fig. 5 : Visible increase in hyaluronic acid ex vivo (blue staining). UVR = UV radiation
- Fig. 6 : Semi-quantitative analysis using image J software. *p<0.05 vs vehicle by paired student's t-test
- Fig. 7a 3D imaging showing skin volume change over time (base formulation without SYN-HYCAN)
- Fig. 7b 3D imaging showing skin volume change over time (base formulation with 2.5% SYN-HYCAN
- Fig. 8 : Skin firmness at day 0 and day 29 after treatment with DSM's peptide at 2.5%, the base formulation only, and a 3% competitor formulation. Shown is the depth of the skin's deformation evoked by the DynaSKIN device. After 29 days of treatment with a 2.5% SYN-HYCAN formulation we found a significantly smaller deofmration indicative for firmer skinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gTdDjl3_8-5czFfOxns4gEm0ye_siVYB/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30954
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 9 (09/2018) . - p. 16-20[article]Réservation
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Titre : Pigmentation effects of blue light irradiation on skin and how to protect against them Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; S. J. Curpen, Auteur ; V. Lutchmanen-Kolanthan, Auteur ; Sarah Gougeon, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; G. Laurent, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur ; R. Schuetz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 399-406 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues d'eau douce
Biomolécules actives
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques
Lumière bleue
Nicotinamide
Pigmentation, Troubles de la
StatistiqueIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Visible light, in particular blue light, has been identified as an additional contributor to cutaneous photoageing. However, clinical studies demonstrating the clear effect of blue light on photoageing are still scarce, and so far, most studies have focused on broad-spectrum visible light. Although there is evidence for increased skin pigmentation, the underlying mechanisms of photoageing in vivo are still unclear. Furthermore, there is still a need for active ingredients to significantly protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation in vivo.
Our study had two aims: to detect visible changes in skin pigmentation following repeated irradiation of the skin with LED-based blue light and to reduce pigmentation using suitable active ingredients.
- Method : We conducted a randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical study on 33 female volunteers with skin phototypes III and IV. We used a repetitive blue light (4 × 60 J cm−2, 450 nm) irradiation protocol on the volunteers’ inner forearms. Using hyperspectral imaging, we assessed chromophore status. In addition, we took chromameter measurements and photographs to assess visible hyperpigmentation.
- Results : We measured significant changes in chromophore status (P < 0.001 vs baseline), that is of melanin, haemoglobin and oxygen saturation, immediately after blue light irradiation. In addition, we found visible skin colour changes which were expressed by a significant decrease in ITA° values (delta ITA° = -16.89, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) and an increase in a* (delta a* = +3.37, P < 0.001 vs baseline for the placebo group) 24 h post-irradiation. Hyperpigmentation and skin reddening were mitigated by both a formulation containing 3% of a microalgal product and a formulation containing 3% niacinamide.
- Conclusion : Our study sets out an efficient and robust protocol for investigating both blue light-induced cutaneous alterations, such as changes in skin chromophores, and signs of photoageing, such as hyperpigmentation. Moreover, we have shown evidence that both an extract of the microalga Scenedesmus rubescens and niacinamide (vitamin B3) have the potential to protect against blue light-induced hyperpigmentation.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test compounds - Blue light source - Clinical study design - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Blue light‐induced changes in skin chromophores - Blue light‐induced changes in skin colour
- Table 1 : Formulations used in this studyDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12637 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LwcZLPEyAn7hYOz0vljrQ_rPWJ1WpkLk/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35291
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 4 (08/2020) . - p. 399-406[article]Exemplaires
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