Emulsifier system influences O/W emulsion preservation / Alexander Thiemann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 9, N° 1 (02/2016) . - p. 60-62 Titre : Emulsifier system influences O/W emulsion preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander Thiemann, Auteur ; Wilfried Petersen, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 60-62 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Emulsifiants Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The emulsifier system showed a pronounced influence on the antimicrobial performance of a surfactant and organic acids based preservation system. Emulsifier blends comprising hydrocarbon moieties showed a negative influence on the antimicrobial performance of the tested perservation system. Anionic emulsifiers have a tendency to support the preservation activity better than non-ionic emulsifiers. It is important to understand that most ingredients have an influence on the product preservation. This influence can be favourable or detrimental. It cannot be assumed that even a slight change of a formulation or the variation of the dosage of a component does not alter the result of the preservation performance. Challenge tests need to be performed in order to proof sufficient preservation after each change in a formulation composition. Note de contenu : - Table 1. General composition of the O/W emulsions - Table 2. Emulsifier dosage En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGK5ZqXB2E7L9AYtMz7Y4sbb7Rz6M2ob/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25623 [article]

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Oxidation stability - a new holistic approach for cosmetic product protection / Marcella Stockstrom in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 12 (12/2022) . - p. 12-18 Titre : Oxidation stability - a new holistic approach for cosmetic product protection Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marcella Stockstrom, Auteur ; Alexander Thiemann, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 12-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Emulsifiants Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Oxydation -- Stabilité Palmitate d'ascorbyl Synergie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Formulators are facing new challenges when protecting oil-containing systems such as cosmetic O/W (oil suspended in water) emulsions against oxidative deterioration. These challenges are a result of both growing consumer awareness of sustainability and the increased use of natural raw materials. As a result, planning cosmetic formulation concepts is becoming increasingly complex. The remedy of choice against lipid oxidation is the use of antioxidant systems, such as tocopherols. An initial prerequisite for their targeted and careful use in cosmetic formulations is reliable analysis of their antioxidant efficacy. Unlike the requirements for the formulator, current measurement methods do not reflect the conditions of a product’s life-cycle associated with cosmetics. A method developed by Evonik for testing oxidative stability can overcome this. This method is based on measuring oxygen levels above the formulation, within a closed system and under conditions relevant to cosmetics. In this study, we investigated the product-protective efficacy of certain antioxidant products (dermofeel® Toco 70 non GMO, dermofeel® TocoBalance, dermofeel® AP MB) in O/W emulsions with different emulsifier systems (dermofeel® GSC SG and Distearyldimonium Chloride and symbio®muls GC MB). The results exemplify our ability to assist formulators in their planning and raw material selection by providing precise information on system-dependent efficacies, consisting of interactions, synergies, but also pro-oxidative effects. Note de contenu : - The challenges of oxidative product protection - Test methods for the formulator with regard to lipid oxidation - Results : Investigation of tocopherols as a protective system against oxidation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dNQYLZJpgSXFLcm8h2mhoVTte55IE6P6/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38573 [article]

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Rethinking oxidation protection in cosmetics / Marcella Stockstrom in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023)  

[article]  inGLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 5 (05/2023) . - p. 57-61 Titre : Rethinking oxidation protection in cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Marcella Stockstrom, Auteur ; Katharina Nieswandt, Auteur ; Alexander Thiemann, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 57-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Stabilité Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Mesure Oxydation -- Stabilité Vitamine E Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With the increasing use of unsaturated natural oils and the simultaneous replacement of antioxidant systems with more sustainable alternatives, efficient oxidation protection becomes highly essential to maintain shelf life and product integrity. However, selecting the right antioxidants at the right concentrations is time-consuming and largely dependent on application experience and guesswork. Adapted to the needs of the formulator, armed with new technical capabilities, and with consumer demands in mind, Evonik has developed a unique method for testing oxidation stability. The method measures the oxygen consumption of the formulation without destroying it and captures the entire oxidation process under standardized, real product conditions. Discovering consumer-accepted solutions for oxidation protection and verifying the efficacy of antioxidants in cosmetic formulations are the tools of choice to provide optimal, in depth support to the formulator. Note de contenu : - The biggest challenges for formulator with product protection - Supporting the formulation process - Factors influencing the product oxidation process - How does the interphase of an emulsion affect the antioxidative potential of tocopherols ? - What factors promote the efficacy of the co-antioxidant ascorbyl palmitate in cosmetic formulations ? - How does Evonik support the formulator ? En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DXoIQXuGwoDAziJsuKyRy25KBQgiBNp-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=39795 [article]

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The formulator's guide to safe cosmetic preservation / Alexander Thiemann in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014) . - p. 39-43 Titre : The formulator's guide to safe cosmetic preservation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander Thiemann, Auteur ; Jan Jänichen, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 39-43 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Cosmétiques -- Additifs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Future-proof cosmetic preservative systems with listed preservatives are becoming more and more restricted. In response to this negative trend, Dr.Straetmans developed two product lines for cosmetic preservation, dermosoft and Verstatil. Both product lines comprise raw materials and blends, which can be matched with the cosmetic formulations and their special features and claims. Dermosoft offers formulators multifunctional additives with antimicrobial properties for preservation without any listed preservatives, whereas Verstatil combines well established, inexpensive preservatives from Annex V with modern multifunctional additives to exploit synergies. Note de contenu : - Multifunctional product range - Listed preservative product range - Table 1 : Dermosoft multifunctional additives - Table 2 : Verstatil blends of listed preservatives and multifunctional additives En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbGhUd8c9Y8_AUyLYa4v8vspx6QhWWRt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22266 [article]

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