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Arnica montana L. extract containing 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin accelerates growth and differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes and leads volumizing of skin / Kotaro Sakamoto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 1-13 Titre : Arnica montana L. extract containing 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin accelerates growth and differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes and leads volumizing of skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kotaro Sakamoto, Auteur ; Chiharu Watanabe, Auteur ; Teruaki Masutani, Auteur ; Asuka Hirasawa, Auteur ; Kanae Wakamatsu, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur ; Yuya Kakumu, Auteur ; Kosei Yamauchi, Auteur ; Tohru Mitsunaga, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 1-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adipocytes Antiâge:Antirides Arnica et constituants Arnica est un genre d'environ 30 espèces de plantes pérennes, herbacées, appartenant à la famille des Asteraceae. Ce genre montagnard se développe essentiellement dans les régions tempérées néarctiques (Amérique du Nord). Seules deux espèces sont natives des régions paléarctiques (Eurasie) : Arnica angustifolia et Arnica montana. En médecine traditionnelle, l'usage de l'arnica des montagnes est décrit dans des pharmacopées européennes pour son usage sur le traitement de petits traumatismes comme les hématomes, troubles menstruels, mais cet usage n'est pas soutenu par des études scientifiques. Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Chimie analytique Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Repulpant (cosmétique) Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objective : An important factor in the aging of the face is a reduction in the volume of adipose tissue. This reduction in adipose tissue contributes to decreased skin elasticity, which is also part of the aging process. Overall, these lead to wrinkle formation. Fat injection is a common means of addressing this issue and is used to reduce the effects of aging on the face and to increase the fullness of the lips and breasts. However, fat injection is an invasive surgical procedure. This study aimed to discover novel cosmetic ingredients that increase the volume of subcutaneous (pre)adipocytes to create the appearance of more youthful skin. - Methods : We focused on the number of subcutaneous preadipocytes and the accumulation of lipid droplets. To discover natural ingredients that increase both of these, extracts of 380 natural products were prepared and screened for their effects on both growth and differentiation (i.e., lipid droplet accumulation) of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. One extract was found to have the desired effects, and this was further studied to determine the active compounds. We then evaluated its efficacy in a human clinical study. - Results : We found that Arnica montana L. flower extract (AFE) accelerates both the growth and the differentiation of human subcutaneous preadipocytes. AFE was found to significantly increase the volume of adipocyte spheroids. The active compounds 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin were found to be responsible for the effects of AFE on preadipocytes. In a human clinical study, gels containing 1% AFE successfully enhanced the volume of the lips and face with reduction of wrinkles with no adverse reactions. - Conclusion : This is the first report to demonstrate that AFE and the included compounds, 6-O-methacryloylhelenalin and 6-O-isobutyrylhelenalin, act on preadipocytes. AFE would be ideal for use in products that plump the face to reduce wrinkles and create a more youthful appearance. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant extracts preparation - In vitro cell-based assay - Evaluation of adiponectin secretion - Preparation of cell spheroids - Evaluation of lipid droplet amount in spheroids - Fractionation and identification of active compounds of AFE - Ethics statement - Chemical trials - Statistics analysis - RESULTS : Screening of 380 natural extracts for their effects on the growth and differentiation of preadipocytes - AFE activation of subcutaneous preadipocytes - AFE volumizing effects on adipocytes spheroids (3D-cultured cells) - Active compounds responsible for the effects of AFE on preadipocytes - Volumizing and wrinkle-reducing effects of AFE on human skin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12815 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a9DVvVwVnqDJA4DkGFZOmqmp_Alfg-za/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38815 [article]

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Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping / Ghaith Kourbaj in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 14-28 Titre : Assessment of penetration and permeation of caffeine by confocal Raman spectroscopy in vivo and ex vivo by tape stripping Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ghaith Kourbaj, Auteur ; Annette Gaiser, Auteur ; Stephan Bielfeldt, Auteur ; Dominique Lunter, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 14-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caféine Décapage Pénétration cutanée Perméation Rubans adhésifs Spectroscopie Raman Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of non-destructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping. - Methods : Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin. - Results : Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values. - Conclusion : The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Test solutions - Ex vivo tape stripping - In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy - Statistics - RESULTS : Results of ex vivo tape stripping - Results of in vivo CRS measurements - DISCUSSION : Tape stripping results - DISCUSSION OF THE CRS RESULTS : Comparing tape stripping results to CRS results - Table 1 : Make-up of test solutions - Table 2 : Incubation times - Table 3 : Flux from different experimental setups - Table 4 : Flux from different experimental setups. Flux over 1 h from different experimental setups DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12820 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/144nCOFKEh8YNpyXDssgQ2dBq7xZHp7Ff/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38816 [article]

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Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin / Ariadna Ortiz Brugués in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 29-37 Titre : Clinical studies in Chinese subjects investigating the tolerance and soothing efficacy of a cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol on the sensitivity of facial skin Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ariadna Ortiz Brugués, Auteur ; Lara Claude Braeuer, Auteur ; Jean-Baptiste Grieu, Auteur ; Ying Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 29-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : 4-t-butylcyclohexanol Baumes Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peau asiatique Sensibilité cutanée Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : Asian subjects are particularly prone to skin sensitivity. We developed a facial cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol to provide skin comfort and a soothing effect for sensitive skin. - Objectives : Assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance and efficacy in improving skin sensitivity of face cream and balm under normal conditions of use by a population known to be particularly prone to this problem. - Methods : In a monocentric non-randomized open trial, the cream or balm was applied twice daily to the face, neck, and eye contour of 33 stinger subjects with hypersensitive skin (22-63 years old). Assessments included dermatological and ophthalmological physical and functional signs on Day 1 (D1), D8, and D22, and cosmetic acceptability, cutaneous sensitivity according to a stinging test and the sensitive scale, and the soothing efficacy according to a questionnaire on D22. - Results : The cream and balm were very well tolerated. Immediately after application, subjects reported a reduction in the skin's hypersensitivity (93.9% of subjects for the cream and 81.8% for the balm), skin redness (90.9% of subjects for the cream and 87.9% for the balm), sensations of tightness (93.9% for the cream and 97.0% for the balm), and discomfort sensations (93.9% for the cream and 87.9% for the balm). After 21 days, the application of the cream and balm decreased the stinging scores by 65% and 41%, respectively, with 94% and 77% of subjects showing an improvement, respectively. The sensitivity scale questionnaire indicated that the cream and balm significantly and profoundly decreased all negative signs, for example, irritability, stinging, general discomfort, redness, and dryness on D22 compared to D1. On D22, all 15 parameters recorded were improved by 89%–100% by the cream and by 74%–100% by the balm. The majority (90.9% and 96.8% of subjects using the cream and balm, respectively) of the subjects noticed positive changes in their skin condition after using the product for 21 days. - Conclusions : The cream and balm were very well-tolerated. This study demonstrated that both products controlled and markedly reduced skin hypersensitivity in Asian subjects, with an immediate and lasting skin soothing and repairing effect over 21 days. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Test formulations - Subjects - Treatment and evaluation visits - Evaluations - RESULTS : Dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance - Efficacy endpoints DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12822 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19HbQq9f8ZWvdcEcjZB0IuVotmZZT3x1O/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38817 [article]

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Factors to control the alignment of surface-treated titanium dioxide powders to maximize performance of sunscreens / Shoji Takekawa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 38-49 Titre : Factors to control the alignment of surface-treated titanium dioxide powders to maximize performance of sunscreens Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Shoji Takekawa, Auteur ; Miwa Ohara, Auteur ; Taisuke Banno, Auteur ; Kouichi Asakura, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 38-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse spectrale Barrière cutanée Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Evaluation Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Traîtements de surface Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Titanium dioxide powders are contained in a large class of colour cosmetics and sunscreen formulas. When they are used, the formation of a uniform functional powder layer on the skin is an important factor to show their functionality, such as aesthetic and UV protection. Attempts were made to extract the factors that affect the UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer. - Methods : Seven kinds of surface treatments were conducted on nano-sized titanium dioxide powder to modify the surface characteristics. Dispersion samples were prepared by mixing these powders with liquids, such as mixed solutions of cyclopentasiloxane, isododecane, coconuts alkane and dimethicone using a disperser and a bead mill. The dispersions were applied using an applicator on cellulose triacetate film, polycarbonate film and polymethyl pentene film. Laser microscope observation and micro-gloss glossmeter analysis were carried out to assess the flatness of the deposited powder layers, and the UV shielding ability was evaluated using SPF analyser. - Results : Factors whose influences on the structure and UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer being analysed were pseudo-HLB of the powders, liquids for preparing the dispersions and material of the substrates. Higher UV shielding ability was attained when powders having pseudo-HLB at around 6 were employed independent from the kinds of liquids and substrates. Flatness of the deposited layer was found to enhance the UV shielding ability of the UV-B region, while that of the UV-A region was scarcely influenced by the flatness. Employing lower surface tension liquids for preparing the dispersions and materials exhibiting lower polar components of surface free energy as substrates tended to enhance the UV shielding ability. - Conclusion : Surface treatments conducted on the powders in this study were found to change UV shielding ability, especially UV-B shielding ability, and the relation between pseudo-HLB and UV shielding ability was scarcely influenced by the kinds of liquids. Both surface tension of liquids and the polar component of surface free energy of substrates affected the UV shielding ability. It was suggested that pseudo-HLB calculated based on chemical structure becomes useful information to choose optimum surface treatment to make uniform powder alignment independent from the surrounding environment. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Surface treatment - Preparation of dispersions and their application onto substrates - Evaluation of surface tension of liquids and surface free energy of each film - Characterization of UV shielding ability and surface structure of the applied layer - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Surface tension of mixed solutions and surface free energy of each film - Effect of surface tension of mixed solutions of D5 and ID on the UV shielding ability - Effect of cosmetic oils for the mixed solutions on the UV shielding ability - Effect of substrates on the UV shielding ability - Table 1 : Preparation of three types of mixed solution, II, III and IV, containing cosmetic oils, DM and CA, having the surface tension approximately at 20 mN/m, i.e. the surface tension of mixed solution of D5 and ID whose weight ratio is 0.50:0.50 (mixed solution I) - Table 2 : Mean contact angle of water and diiodomethane on the three kinds of films, mean temperature and mean three-phase point to evaluate surface free energy of each film and the dispersive and polar components - Table 3 : Surface free energy of CTA, PC and PMP film and the dispersive and polar components - Table 4 : Seven treated titanium dioxide powder samples employed for the experiments - Table 5 : 45-degree gloss value of deposited seven types of surface-treated titanium dioxide layer formed on CTA film DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12816 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dojnru5MAVRhG8HWAghnCSv5en47h7nv/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38818 [article]

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How different is human hair ? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification / Gabriela Daniels in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 50-61 Titre : How different is human hair ? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Gabriela Daniels, Auteur ; Ashiana Fraser, Auteur ; Gillian E. Westgate, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 50-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Africain(ne)s Asiatiques Caucasien(ne)s Cheveux -- Classification Cheveux bouclés Densité Dermatologie Fibre capillaire Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This review critically appraises the reported differences in human hair fibre within three related domains of research: hair classification approaches, fibre characteristics and properties. The most common hair classification approach is based on geo-racial origin, defining three main groups: African, Asian and Caucasian hair. This classification does not account sufficiently for the worldwide hair diversity and intergroups variability in curl, shape, size and colour. A global classification into eight curl types has been proposed but may be too complex for reproducibility. Beyond that, hair cross-sectional shape and area have been found to have an inverse relation to curl: straighter fibres are circular with larger cross-sectional area, whilst the curlier fibres are elliptical with smaller cross-sectional area. These geometrical differences have been associated with bilateral vs homogenous distribution of cortical cell in curly vs straight hair respectively. However, there is no sufficient data demonstrating significant differences in hair amino composition, but proteomic studies are reporting associations of some proteins with curly hair. Eumelanin’s relative abundance has been reported in all hair colours except for red hair which has a high pheomelanin content. Higher tensile and fatigue strength of straight hair are reported, however, curly hair fragility is attributed to knotting, and crack and flow formations rather than the structural variations. African hair has been found to have the highest level of lipids, whilst the water sorption of Caucasian hair is the highest, and that of Asian hair the lowest. Not all comparative studies clearly report their hair sampling approaches. Therefore, to strengthen the robustness of comparative studies and to facilitate cross-study data comparisons, it is recommended that the following hair defining characteristics are reported in studies: hair cross sectional diameter/area, curl type, hair assembly colour, as well as where possible donor data (age/gender) and sample pooling approach. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Historical perspectives on hair classifications - Hair characteristics - Hair fibre properties - Table 1 : Search terms applied for each search topic - Table 2 : Hair density DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12819 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b6wOBEKSfPwVcGsNkV8ilEYGvJpQENGH/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38819 [article]

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Inhibition of lipogenesis and sebum secretion for Lotus corniculatus seed extract in vitro and in vivo / Lu Cheng in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 62-72 Titre : Inhibition of lipogenesis and sebum secretion for Lotus corniculatus seed extract in vitro and in vivo Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Lu Cheng, Auteur ; Jingyi Guo, Auteur ; Yina Lu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 62-72 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : 5'-o-rhamnosyluridine Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cheveux -- Teinture Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Lipogénèse Lotier corniculé Peau -- analyse Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sébocytes Séborrhée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : Botanical ingredients are widely used in hair- and skin-care products. However, few studies have investigated the effectiveness of botanical products on counteracting sebum synthesis and secretion. - Objective : To investigate the composition of Lotus corniculatus seed extract (LC) and its potential inhibition of lipogenesis in SZ95 sebocytes and oily human skin. - Methods : The active components of LC solutions were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The in vitro effects of LC were evaluated using SZ95 cells treated with linoleic acid (LA) and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and incubated with LCs for 24 h and 72 h. Lipogenesis was assessed by Oil Red O and Nile Red staining of the cells. In vivo effects were assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin who were enrolled in a randomized, blank-controlled trial and were treated with LC solution for 6 h and 4 weeks. The skin sebum contents and area on the forehead and cheeks were evaluated using a Sebumeter SM815 and Sebfix sebutape with Visioscan VC98. In addition, VISIA was used to collect half-face photos for analysis. - Results : A novel active molecule, 5′-o-rhamnosyl uridine, was identified in LC. LC exhibited a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on LA and DHT-induced lipid synthesis. When 5% LC was applied for 3 h, the skin sebum contents and area were significantly reduced compared with the vehicle control, with an obvious reduction after 6 h. Continued use of the serum containing 5% LC for 4 weeks resulted in a significant reduction in the skin sebum contents and area. No adverse reactions were reported during the study. - Conclusions : Topical application of LC resulted in an immediate and long-lasting reduction of the sebum contents and area of oily human skin by reducing sebaceous lipogenesis through the LA and DHT pathways. This indicates the potential of LC as a new biological treatment for oily skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Analysis of LC composition - Cell culture - Cell staining - Clinical research - RESULTS : Active components of LC - Lipogenesis in SZ95 sebocytes - Six-hour oily skin evaluation - Four-week oily skin evaluation - Effects of LC on sebum contents - Effects of LC on sebum area - Effects of LC on skin pores DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12823 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-XNRv8JntUaPMXIRk6qIoJuNhEaa11zx/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38820 [article]

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Protective effect of human amniotic membrane extract against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts / Negin Talachi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) Titre : Protective effect of human amniotic membrane extract against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Negin Talachi, Auteur ; Elaheh Afzal, Auteur ; Masoumeh Nouri, Auteur ; Saeid Abroun, Auteur ; Morteza Zarrabi, Auteur ; Hoda Jahandar, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge Antioxydants Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Dermo-cosmétologie Fibroblastes Membrane amniotique Peau -- Soins et hygiène Peroxyde d'hydrogène Le peroxyde d'hydrogène (H2O2), communément appelé eau oxygénée ou encore perhydrol (appellation industrielle), est un composé chimique liquide et visqueux, aux puissantes propriétés oxydantes (il est aussi réducteur). C'est donc un agent blanchissant efficace qui sert de désinfectant et (à haute concentration) d'oxydant ou monergol dans les fusées spatiales. Stress oxydatif Vieillissement cutané -- Prévention Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : One of the main approaches to preventing skin ageing is to protect fibroblast cells from oxidative stress. The promoting effect of the human amniotic membrane extract (hAME) on re-epithelization, proliferation and migration of cells in wound healing has been already well studied. This experimental study aimed to investigate the antioxidant activity of hAME against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)-induced dermal fibroblast damage. - Methods : Here, to establish the ageing model, human foreskin fibroblasts (HFFs) were exposed to 200 μM H2O2 for 2 h. HFFs were treated with 0.1 mg/ml AME for 24 or 48 h before or/and after H2O2 exposure. A total of 48 h following the H2O2 treatment, we measured cell proliferation, viability, senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal), antioxidants and preinflammatory cytokine (IL-6) levels, as well as the expression of senescence-associated genes (P53 and P21). - Results : The obtained results indicated that under oxidative stress, AME significantly increased cellular viability and not only promoted the cell proliferation rate but also attenuated apoptotic induction condition (p < 0.001). AME also significantly reversed the SA-β-Gal levels induced by H2O2 (p < 0.001). Additionally, both pre- and post-treatment regimen by AME down-regulated the expression of senescence marker genes (p < 0.001). Moreover, AME declined different oxidative stress biomarkers such as superoxide dismutase and catalase and increased the glutathione amount. - Conclusion : Altogether, our results indicated that AME had a remarkable antioxidant and antiageing activity as pre- and post-treatment regimen, pointing to this compound as a potential natural-based cosmeceutical agent to prevent and treat skin ageing conditions. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Preparation of AME - Cell culture and treatment - Establishment of ageing condition - Evaluation of cellular viability and apoptosis - Detection of senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) - Assessment of antioxidants levels - Superoxide dismutase - Catalase - Glutathione - Assessment of IL-6 level - RNA isolation and real-time PCR analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULT : Establishment of H2O2-induced ageing in human fibroblasts - AME attenuates H2O2-induced ageing regimen, promotes proliferation and enhances cellular viability - AME protects human fibroblasts from oxidative stress-induced senescence - Antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects of AME - H2O2-induced ageing regimen is not associated with interleukin-6 expression DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12818 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/16lcmBb9zjEzLQaKzp5_cWXTqu-hFJmm-/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38821 [article]

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Randomized comparative double-blind study assessing the difference between topically applied microbiome supporting skincare versus conventional skincare on the facial microbiome in correlation to biophysical skin parameters / Emilia Santamaria in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 83-94 Titre : Randomized comparative double-blind study assessing the difference between topically applied microbiome supporting skincare versus conventional skincare on the facial microbiome in correlation to biophysical skin parameters Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Emilia Santamaria, Auteur ; Ulf Akerström, Auteur ; Nicolas Berger-Picard, Auteur ; Sylvain Lataste, Auteur ; Johanna M. Gillbro, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 83-94 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) Dermo-cosmétologie Diversité bactérienne Étude randomisée Etudes comparatives Evaluation Microbiome -- Analyse Microbiome cutané Peau -- Soins et hygiène Séquençage des acides nucléiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background : There are trillions of live bacteria, of around 1000 different species, living in human skin which are considered essential for the balance and barrier function of the skin. The gut microbiome has been a subject of extensive research and evidence shows that the gut flora is affected by preservatives and processed foods. In conventional skincare, preservatives are used, and this raises the question of how it affects the skin flora and its balance. - Methods : A randomized double-blind study on 14 healthy volunteers ages 23–45 years old were advised to use microbiome-supporting (MS) products on one cheek and benchmark (BM) products on the other cheek daily for 3 weeks. To investigate how the skin was affected, the skin microbiome was analysed using 16 S rRNA sequencing and biophysical parameters were assessed using an Antera 3D camera. Measurements were performed before and after the 3 weeks of using the products. - Results : The use of MS products for 3 weeks significantly increased the total number of reads mapped to unique bacterial species (p < 0.05) and the number of different unique species (p < 0.05). In addition, the use of MS products significantly reduced redness (p < 0.05) and improved skin texture (p < 0.01). The use of BM products showed no significant difference in any of the parameters except improved skin texture (p < 0.05). Additionally, the MS side showed a significantly improved diversity (p < 0.05) compared with the BM side. The four major phyla found were, similarly to previous findings by others, Actinobacteria, Firmicutes, Proteobacteria and Bacteroidetes. Some of the most prevalent species were Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Pseudonomas aeruginosa. - Conclusion : The findings of this study showed significant improvements in the microbiome and biophysical parameters within 3 weeks of using MS skincare alone, while BM skincare only gave significantly improved skin roughness. Importantly, the MS side gave a significantly improved bacterial Shannon diversity (p < 0.05) compared with the BM side. Regarding the biophysical parameters, the MS skincare gave significant improvements in several parameters compared with baseline. However, they were not yet significant when compared to using BM skincare and therefore a larger study population will be needed. Importantly, this is the first study to investigate how preservatives affect the facial microbiome in vivo and has raised a need for further investigation. These results together with further studies can lead to innovations within the cosmetic industry that promote healthier skin. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subject population - Study design - Test products - Evaluation of the skin microbiome - Evaluation of skin biophysical parameters by image analysis - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Microbiome sequencing - Biophysical parameters (Antera 3D) - Table 1 : Benchmark cleanser ingredients (according to INCI) - Table 2 : Microbiome-supporting cleanser ingredients (according to INCI) - Table 3 : Benchmark cream ingredients (according to INCI) - Table 4 : Microbiome-supporting cream ingredients (according to INCI) DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12826 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HoA0q4V_OEyScOL-9dN7d7JkwmemTgcz/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38822 [article]

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Reproducible method for assessing the effects of blue light using in vitro human skin tissues / Rishabh Kala in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 95-107 Titre : Reproducible method for assessing the effects of blue light using in vitro human skin tissues Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rishabh Kala, Auteur ; Nicole Heiberger, Auteur ; Heather Mallin, Auteur ; Stephanie Wheeler, Auteur ; Anna Langerveld, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 95-107 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Elisa, Test Le test ELISA est une méthode de laboratoire qualifiée d'immuno-enzymatique. Il s'agit d'un test immunologique, car il a pour principal objectif de mettre en évidence la présence d'anticorps ou d'antigènes spécifiques à une pathologie, dans un échantillon de sang. Cet examen utilise une protéine appelée enzyme, qui va se fixer à certains constituants spécifiques de la maladie, et par repérage et quantification de cette enzyme, la maladie pourra être affirmée, ainsi que son intensité évaluée. Expression génique Lumière bleue Peau -- Inflammation Peau -- Maladies Stress oxydatif Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Introduction : High-intensity visible light (HEV), also referred to as blue light, has a wavelength of 400–500 nm and accounts for approximately one-third of the visible light. Blue light is also emitted from electronic devices and artificial indoor lighting. Studies have shown that exposure of human skin cells to light emitted from electronic devices, even as short as 1 h, can cause an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS), apoptosis and necrosis. Despite comprising a significant portion of the light spectrum, the effects of HEV light have not been studied as extensively. This is in part due to a lack of suitable in vitro testing methods. This work was conducted in order to develop a reproducible testing method for assessing the effects of blue light on the skin. - Methods : Testing was performed using a full thickness, 3D in vitro skin tissue model. Different exposure protocols were tested to (1) determine the biological effects of blue light on the skin and (2) to identify an appropriate exposure for routine testing of cosmetic materials that may protect the skin from blue light damage. Gene expression and protein biomarkers were measured using qPCR, ELISA and immunohistochemical (IHC) methods. - Results : Our work demonstrates that daily exposure to blue light produced dose-and-time-dependent changes in biomarkers associated with skin damage. Exposure to blue light for 6 h for 5 consecutive days (total intensity of 30 J/cm2) increased the expression of genes that regulate inflammation and oxidative stress pathways and decreased the expression of genes that maintain skin barrier and tissue integrity. Exposure to blue light significantly increased protein biomarkers associated with ageing, inflammation and tissue damage. IHC staining confirmed changes in collagen, filaggrin and NQO1 protein expression. Treatment with ascorbic acid inhibited the effects of blue light, demonstrating a role in protection from blue light. - Conclusion : Our results showed that consistent blue light exposure produced skin damage via alterations in biological pathways that are associated with skin ageing. This work provides a new, reproducible in vitro testing method for assessing the effects of blue light on human skin using gene expression, protein ELISA and IHC staining. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : In vitro skin tissues - Treatment of skin tissues - RNA isolation and quantitative reverse Transcription-polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) analysis - Enzyme-linked immunosorbent (ELISA) protein assays - Immunohistochemistry (IHC) staining - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Blue light produced dose-dependent changes in gene expression - Blue light produced oxidative DNA damage - Blue light exposure caused an increase in skin ageing and MMP1 activity - Blue light exposure caused an increase in pro-inflammatory cytokine expression - Vitamin C prevents blue light damage - Table 1 : Statistically significant (unpaired t test, p < 0.05, N = 4) changes in gene expression are shown in Table 1 for each group vs the unexposed group DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12821 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15yOdVPKCyBpYYMPGCXgl8r5MER1WHETA/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38823 [article]

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Results from an extended study on the reliability of a questionnaire for the diagnosis of sensitive skin: Confirmations and improvements / Alessandro Borghi in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 45, N° 1 (02/2023) . - p. 108-115 Titre : Results from an extended study on the reliability of a questionnaire for the diagnosis of sensitive skin: Confirmations and improvements Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Alessandro Borghi, Auteur ; Fabrizio Guarneri, Auteur ; Leda Montesi, Auteur ; Lucrezia Pacetti, Auteur ; Irene Donelli, Auteur ; Monica Corazza, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 108-115 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Barrière cutanée Dermatologie Lactique, Acide L'acide lactique est un acide organique qui joue un rôle dans divers processus biochimiques. Un lactate est un sel de cet acide. Contrairement à ce que peut laisser penser son nom, l'acide lactique n'est pas présent uniquement dans le lait, mais également dans le vin, certains fruits et légumes, et dans les muscles. L'acide lactique est un acide alpha hydroxylé, sa formule chimique est C3H6O3 et sa structure se reflète dans son nom systématique, l'acide 2-hydroxypropanoïque. Questionnaires Sensibilité cutanée Statistique Test de la piqure (dermatologie) Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : A recently proposed self-assessment questionnaire aimed at diagnosing sensitive skin provided promising results in a relatively small population. The main objectives were: (i) to assess the reliability of the aforementioned questionnaire in a larger population and verify the cut-off score previously found to predict skin sensitivity (defined as positivity to LAST, lactic acid stinging test) and (ii) to define a formula that yields the probability of a positive LAST result. - Methods : Adult volunteers were included in this observational, cross-sectional, extended study. Both LAST-positive subjects, who were considered as having sensitive skin (‘patients’) and negative ones (‘controls’) completed the questionnaire, which concerned sensitivity to possible triggers of unpleasant skin sensations in real life. A cumulative score (questionnaire-based skin sensitivity score, 0–10) was calculated from the sum of all items. - Results : Three hundred and sixty-four subjects were enrolled, 214 patients and 150 controls. The mean questionnaire-based skin sensitivity score was significantly higher among patients than controls. Using two different methods, cut-off values of 4 and 5 were defined for the identification of LAST-positive subjects, with 76.6% and 72.8% accuracy, respectively. Scores below 4 or above 5 showed a high (80% or better) negative or positive predictive value, respectively. The coefficients found that in multivariate analysis for each questionnaire item, gender and age allowed us to calculate the probability of LAST positivity with higher precision taking into account the 'relative weight' of each factor. - Conclusion : With small variations in the results, the self-assessment questionnaire confirmed its reliability for diagnosing sensitive skin in clinical practice. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Study design and population - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Patients' characteristics - Self-assessment - Questionnaire reliability - Table 1 : Demographic characteristics of the study subjects who claimed having/not having sensitive skin - Table 2 : Self-assessed skin sensitivity scores (VAS, 0–10) of patients and controls, grouped (i) by sex and (ii) by their answer to the question ‘Do you think that you have sensitive skin ?’ - Table 3 : Reaction to potentially triggering stimuli : Mean cumulative scores of patients and controls, grouped (i) by sex and (ii) by their answer to the question ‘Do you think that you have sensitive skin ?’ - Table 4 : Sensitivity, specificity, positive and negative predictive values and accuracy of the possible cut-off values of questionnaire-assessed skin sensitivity score for the correct diagnosis of sensitive skin, i.e. positivity to the LAST - Table 5 : Multivariate logistic regression showing the relevance of different variables in determining the positive result to LAST DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12817 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JfUKUOmmlrpt44NqriXQ4IfrPyn937J7/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38824 [article]

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