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Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges / Edith Filaire in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 604-613 Titre : Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Edith Filaire, Auteur ; Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Auteur ; Camille Laporte, Auteur ; Marie-Françoise Harmand, Auteur ; Marina Simon, Auteur ; Christian Poinsot, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 604-613 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie analytique Cosmétiques -- Toxicologie Dermo-cosmétologie Etude in vitro Tests cutanés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Guided by ethical considerations and regulatory requirements such as the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive N° 1223/2009, the cosmetic industry has developed and evaluated alternative test strategies such as in vitro assays, in silico approaches for toxicological endpoints and efficacy of cosmetic products and cosmetics ingredients. In consequence, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) has proposed a list of validated cell-based in vitro models for predicting the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients. These models have been demonstrated as valuable and effective tools to overcome the limitations of animal in vivo studies. For example, 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption. - OBJECTIVE : This review presents, in relation to the regulatory requirements, the main alternative in vitro models used in the safety tests of cosmetic products, focusing on skin sensitization, skin corrosion, skin irritation and skin absorption, with advantages and limitations of each model. Recent innovative 3D cell technologies such as Organ-on-a-Chip (OoC) models that can bring significant improvements for toxicology and efficacy testing are also presented. - CONCLUSION : The development of OoC technology is promising for assessing the toxicity of substances contained in cosmetics, particularly for repeated dose toxicity, for which no alternative in vitro methods are currently available. Nevertheless, aside from the challenges, the technology needs to be validated and accepted by regulatory organizations as an effective method. Collaboration between researchers, regulatory organizations and industry would be required to achieve this validation. Note de contenu : - SKIN TOXICOLOGY EVALUATION : Skin absorption - Skin corrosion - Skin irritation - Skin sensitization - OPPORTUNITIES FOR DEVELOPMENT OF NEW IN VITRO MODELS FOR SKIN TOXICITY DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12803 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Up7T5YpQhPlZdc9E1U35KQWLhtMoufyC/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38385 [article]

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Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition / Romain Duroux in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 614-624 Titre : Targeting inflammation and pro-resolving mediators with Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp condition Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Romain Duroux, Auteur ; Vincent Baillif, Auteur ; Fabien Havas, Auteur ; Morgane Farge, Auteur ; Alban Maurin, Auteur ; Thierry Suère, Auteur ; Emeline VanGoethem, Auteur ; Joan Attia, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 614-624 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Barrière cutanée Cellules -- Cultures et milieux de culture Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract. - METHODS : The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro-CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analysed by LC–MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated. - RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro-CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease in sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analysed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase in Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decrease in pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health. - CONCLUSION : The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - In vitro cell studies - Ex vivo study - Clinical trial - RESULTS : Anetholea anisita extract decreases oxidative stress and inflammation in HFDPC cultures - Anetholea anisita extract decreases the volume of sebaceous glands from scalp - Anetholea anisita extract clinically decreases pro-inflammatory markers and increases SPMs in scalp sebum - Anetholea anisita extract clinically improves scalp condition and decreases dandruff - Table 1 : Clinical trial formulations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12813 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w3tBFMwD4mmgtIGsOpjfcLJw4_DrCVt1/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38386 [article]

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Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol / Kieran T. Mellody in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 625-635 Titre : Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Kieran T. Mellody, Auteur ; Eleanor J. Bradley, Auteur ; Bezaleel Mambwe, Auteur ; Lindsay F. Cotterell, Auteur ; Orsolya Kiss, Auteur ; Poonam Halai, Auteur ; Zeena Loftus, Auteur ; Mike Bell, Auteur ; Tamara W. Griffiths, Auteur ; Christopher E. M. Griffiths, Auteur ; Rachel E. B. Watson, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 625-635 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anatomie Antiâge Barrière cutanée Formulation (Génie chimique) Peau -- Anatomie Peau -- Physiologie Peau noire -- Soins et hygiène Photodétérioration Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. - OBJECTIVE : To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study. - METHODS : For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5 ; age range 66–84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3 % or 1 % retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly. - RESULTS : Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3 % retinol and 1 % retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01) ; other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1 % retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ2(1) = 23.97 ; p < 0.001). - CONCLUSIONS : This study suggests that 1 % and 0.3 % retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3 % retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1 % retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application. Note de contenu : - Tissue sample acquisition and preparation - Biomarker detection and imaging - Image analysis - Statistical analysis - Consumer tolerance study - Tolerance profile study analysis DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12799 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C2tBcYfsMW37WaPs8Q-k0HjuTCahQAuk/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38387 [article]

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Quantification of perception towards facial skin ideal complexion in multiple ethnic populations from clinical imaging cues / Ziqi Wu in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 636-649 Titre : Quantification of perception towards facial skin ideal complexion in multiple ethnic populations from clinical imaging cues Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Ziqi Wu, Auteur ; Di Qu, Auteur ; Sarah Whitehead, Auteur ; Xiaojuan Wang, Auteur ; Jianwei Liu, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 636-649 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Groupe ethnique Modèles numériques Peau -- Perception visuelle Pigmentation de la peau Statistiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Ideal complexion is a perceptual skin quality that is strongly influenced by cultural and ethnic background. The objectives of this study are to quantitatively characterise skin ideal complexion based on clinical image cues and to compare the perceptions of ideal - METHODS : Facial images of Indian, Chinese, Caucasian and Latino females collected using VISIA®-CR were presented to naïve panels of the same ethnicity following a two-alternative forced choice design and responses on skin ‘ideal complexion’ were obtained from 336 panellists. Panel perception was transformed logistically (d′) and projected onto a continuum (ω) following Bradley-Terry model. Image cues including skin colour and unevenness, skin shine and surface smoothness and pigmentary blotches and spots were computed using image analysis, and their relationship with ω was evaluated through multiple regression analysis. A novel skin index, namely ideal complexion score (ICS), was developed and correlated against age using linear regression. Finally, ICS was applied to evaluate treatment efficacy of a skin brightening kit on 35 female Caucasian subjects. - RESULTS : Panel perception d′ showed statistically significant (p < 0.05) correlation with the contrast of image cues for all ethnic panels (R2 = 0.74, 0.76, 0.62 and 0.46 for Indian, Chinese, Caucasian and Latino respectively) and strong correlations between perception ω and linear combinations of image cues were observed (R2 > 0.88 for all). Main effects of facial image visual cues on ideal complexion were compared: contrast of skin redness and pigmented spots and visual smoothness were important in determining ICS for all ethnicities; skin colour unevenness was more pronounced for Indian and Caucasian; skin lightness was important for Indian and Chinese; skin shine was critical for Chinese and Latino; and skin hue angle ranked higher for Caucasian. Correlations between ICS and age were observed for Indian and Caucasian (R2 = 0.55) in which ICS decreased as age increased. Twenty-nine percent improvement on ICS was observed after 12 weeks' treatment using the brightening kit compared with the baseline. - CONCLUSION : Mathematical models were successfully established to describe subjective perception towards skin ideal complexion based on objectively measured image cues for multiple ethnicities. Note de contenu : - MATERIAL AND METHODS : Photography subject recruitment - Clinical digital photography - Digital imaging analysis and image cues - Panel perception trial design - Modelling of panel perception - Statistical analysis - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Demographics and imaging cues - Panel perception and contrast of image pairs - Skin ideal complexion score and correlation with image cues - Aging and skin ideal complexion - Treatment efficacy and skin ideal complexion - Table 1 : Objectively measured image cues (mean and standard deviation) of four ethnic populations - Table 2 : Contrast of image cues (median and range) for pairwise image comparison of four ethnic populations - Table 3 : Standardised regression coefficients of Lasso linear regression model for four ethnic populations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12801 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ND2gkdxvtUrh2IAW_zaSDXviHbGoMQmL/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38388 [article]

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Quality of life in female users of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments / Marta Evangelista in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 650-662 Titre : Quality of life in female users of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marta Evangelista, Auteur ; Margarida Vilaça, Auteur ; Isabel F. Almeida, Auteur ; M. Graça Pereira, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 650-662 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - BACKGROUND : Ageing is accompanied by physical changes, both at the physiological and appearance levels. The way people perceive these changes have important consequences on general health and quality of life (QoL). This study analysed the relationship between sociodemographic variables, psychological variables, use of antiageing cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments, and QoL. - METHODS : This cross-sectional study included a sample of 271 women, aged between 25 and 70 years, users of antiageing cosmetic products and/or aesthetic services. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory – Revised), self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), self-perceptions of ageing (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and QoL (SF-12v2). - RESULTS : Being older and having a higher household income was associated with better QoL. The use of facial firming products, hair colouring products, and sunscreen was also associated with better QoL. Psychological morbidity and perfectionism contributed negatively to QoL, while household income contributed positively. Ageing perceptions moderated the relationship between self-esteem and QoL. - CONCLUSION : According to the findings, intervention programs to reduce psychological morbidity, increase self-esteem, promote more adaptive patterns of perfectionism, and recognize the role of age perception are needed to improve women's QoL. The perceived influence of the usage of cosmetic products to prevent/minimize aging signs should be further. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Participants - Instruments - Procedure - Data analysis - RESULTS : Sample characteristics - Relationship between sociodemographic variables, psychological variables, use of cosmetic products/aesthetic treatments, and QoL - Ageing perceptions as a moderator between self-esteem and QoL - Table 1 : Correlation between sociodemographic variables, use of anti-aging products, and QoL - Table 2 : Correlations between psychological variables and QoL - Table 3 : Variables that contribute to QoL DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12804 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vKWhpHcxrQOmRh5xy99EYT1S9_GjAaMZ/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38389 [article]

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Ultraviolet transmission microscopy for the imaging of topical sunscreen emulsions in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 663-671 Titre : Ultraviolet transmission microscopy for the imaging of topical sunscreen emulsions Type de document : document électronique Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 663-671 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (génie chimique) -- Stabilité Justification de l'allégation Microscopie électronique en transmission Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Protection contre le rayonnement ultraviolet Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Microscopy is widely used during the development and testing of topical formulations; however, it often lacks the ability to be chemically specific with regard to what is being imaged. This article describes how moving outside of the visible light region and into different parts of the ultraviolet (UV) spectrum enables differently UV absorbing components in topical emulsions to be directly visualized using optical transmission microscopy. - METHODS : Optical transmission microscopy of different sunscreen emulsions was carried out using a custom-built microscope, imaging in the UVB (313 nm), UVA (365 nm) and visible light (546 nm) and with different magnifications. - RESULTS : By using light of different wavelengths, direct visualization of different UV absorbing ingredients within the product emulsion using optical transmission microscopy has been performed and the locations of the UV absorbing actives in the formulations imaged. - CONCLUSIONS : Microscopy has long been a valuable tool for the skin researcher, providing structural information about the products and how they perform. By moving outside of the spectral region of visible light and into the UV, it has been possible for the first time to directly image different SPF ingredients within topical formulations using optical microscopy. Note de contenu : - Table 1 : Camera settings for images (10× and 32× objectives) - Table 2 : Test product formulation details, UV absorbing behaviour and viscosity - Table 3 : Comparison of Abbe (R = λ/2NA) and Rayleigh (R = 1.22λ/[NAobj + NAcond]) resolutions for the 10× NA 0.2 and 32× NA 0.4 objectives calculated at the different wavelengths DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12809 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OKh_YEsBR_gzUbhzwbaD7RH_PQTjF18F/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38390 [article]

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UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome / Alastair B. Ross in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 672-684 Titre : UV and visible light exposure to hair leads to widespread changes in the hair lipidome Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Alastair B. Ross, Auteur ; Evelyne Maes, Auteur ; Erin J. Lee, Auteur ; Ines Homewood, Auteur ; Jennifer M. Marsh, Auteur ; Stephanie L. Davis, Auteur ; Robert J. Willicut, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 672-684 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Effets du rayonnement ultraviolet Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chimie analytique Lipidomique La lipidomique est l'étude à grande échelle des voies et des réseaux de lipides cellulaires dans les systèmes biologiques. Le mot "lipidome" est utilisé pour décrire le profil lipidique complet dans une cellule, un tissu, un organisme ou un écosystème et est un sous-ensemble du « métabolome » qui comprend également les trois autres grandes classes de molécules biologiques : les protéines/acides aminés, les sucres et les acides nucléiques. La lipidomique est un domaine de recherche relativement récent qui a été porté par les progrès rapides de technologies telles que la spectrométrie de masse (MS), la spectroscopie par résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN), la spectroscopie de fluorescence, l'interférométrie à double polarisation et les méthodes informatiques, associées à la reconnaissance du rôle des lipides dans de nombreuses maladies métaboliques telles que l'obésité, l' athérosclérose, les accidents vasculaires cérébraux, l'hypertension et le diabète . Ce domaine en pleine expansion complète les énormes progrès de la génomique et de la protéomique, qui constituent la famille de la biologie des systèmes. (Wikipedia) Spectrométrie de masse Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Scalp hair is among the most exposed parts of the human body, yet the impact of visible and UV light on hair lipids, an important structural component of hair, is poorly researched. We have used lipidomics, a broad-based approach to measure lipids in samples, which has hitherto not been applied to UV-exposed hair in the published literature, and could allow for a wider understanding of how UV light impacts on specific hair lipids. - METHODS : Mixed blonde Caucasian hair switches were divided into two groups of five, with half of the hair switches exposed to UV and visible light mimicking normal daytime exposure and half left unexposed. LC–MS lipidomics was used to profile the lipids in the hair samples. - RESULTS : A total of 791 lipids and 32 lipid classes with tentative identifications were detected in the hair samples. Nineteen lipid classes and 397 lipids differed between UV-treated and non-treated hair. The main lipid classes that differed were vitamin A fatty acid esters, sterol esters, several ceramides, mono-, di- and triglycerides, phosphatidylethanolamines (all decreased in UV-exposed hair) and bismonoacylglycerolphosphates, acylcarnitines and acylglycines (all increased in UV-exposed hair). Most detected lipids were decreased in UV-exposed hair, supporting earlier work that has found that UV exposure causes oxidation of lipids which would result in a decrease in most lipid classes. - CONCLUSION : Light exposure to hair has a widespread impact on the hair lipidome. This study also adds to the emerging literature on the hair lipidome, broadening the range of lipid classes reported in hair. Note de contenu : - METHODS : Hair samples - UV treatment - Sample preparation - LC–MS lipidomics analysis - RESULTS : Method development - Hair lipidomics - Comparison between UV- and non-UV-treated hair - Table : Lipid classes that differed between UV-exposed and non-UV-treated hair DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12810 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UzzGL7RbLXv5v-oZMbFhtz2_BP-FZ2ou/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38391 [article]

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Understanding of the residual odour of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products / Marie Jaricot in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 685-702 Titre : Understanding of the residual odour of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Marie Jaricot, Auteur ; Catherine Malhiac, Auteur ; Christina Chao, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur ; Michel Grisel, Auteur ; Géraldine Savary, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 685-702 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Chimie analytique Composés organiques volatils Emollients Esters gras Formulation (Génie chimique) Odeurs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : Fatty esters are known for their versatility, but in addition to their performance as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, or dispersing agents, they have to meet more and more criteria to be used in cosmetic products. Thus, their olfactory characteristics are expected to be as neutral as possible. However, despite a step of deodorization during the synthesis of fatty esters, a residual odour is currently still perceived at the end of the process. - METHODS : In this study, a specific analytical methodology combining sensory with chemical analyses was implemented to characterize the residual odour of two fatty esters and to determine its origin. Ethyl oleate and isononyl isononanoate were selected and underwent a sensory analysis to evaluate their odour intensity and odour profile. Volatile compounds released by these esters were assessed by GC–MS after solid-phase microextraction and among them, odouractive compounds were brought into light using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry and olfactometry analyses. - RESULTS : On the isononyl isononanoate chromatogram, only peaks corresponding to the different isomeric ester forms were evidenced while around 70 volatile compounds were detected in the ethyl oleate headspace, including esters, aldehydes, hydrocarbons, and ketones. Isononyl alcohol used as raw material in the synthesis was proven to be responsible for isononyl isononanoate final odour. As for ethyl oleate, of the 23 odour-active compounds perceived, 14 have been identified; they are mainly esters and saturated as well as unsaturated aldehydes. - CONCLUSION : A novel measurement approach was presented to analyse trace odours of fatty esters and the results will be useful to control their deodorization by targeting appropriate strategies with the aim to either avoid the formation or remove the identified odorant compounds. This study may be further expanded by investigating the impact of deodorization on odour-active compounds for a complete understanding of their contribution to the fatty ester global odour. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples - Sensory analysis - Analysis of volatile compounds by SPME-GC–MS - Analysis of odorant compounds by GC–MS-O - Quantification of isononyl alcohol and 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid traces in isononyl isononanoate samples by GC-FID - RESULTS : Ethyl oleate - Isononyl isononanoate - Table 1 : Relative amounts of volatile compounds detected in the headspace of ethyl oleate with assigned odorant perceptions - Table 2 : Volatile compounds detected in the headspace of raw materials of ethyl oleate: olein and stearin DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12811 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1izYOCyoP9kTB5dCdRCYgYBiiw_ErqHRM/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38392 [article]

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A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 6 (12/2022) . - p. 703-718 Titre : A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Marie Cherel, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 703-718 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Cornéométrie Cosmétiques Couche cornée Dermo-cosmétologie Hydratation Mesure Produits hydratants Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVES : The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches. - METHODS : We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results. - RESULTS : The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin. - CONCLUSIONS : Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered. Note de contenu : - Study population and general approach - Expert grading of facial dryness and roughness (whole face) - Bio-instrumental evaluation - Creation of facial colour maps for skin hydration, Δ% and correlation - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Scales for expert gradings of facial dryness and facial roughness - Table 2 : Mapping layout, description of the 30 predefined facial measurement points - Table 3 : Summary of data and evaluations DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12814 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VI5F2j9CH50jwWeiA2VCrnG2AcV1NBht/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38393 [article]

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 44, N° 6 URL