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Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method / Myriam Sohn in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 2-9 Titre : Nano or non-nano the key aspect of the measurement method Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Myriam Sohn, Auteur ; Wendel Wohlleben, Auteur ; Philipp Müller, Auteur ; Denis Botin, Auteur ; Marcel Schnyder, Auteur ; Stanislaw Krus, Auteur ; Stephanie Acker, Auteur ; Bernd Herzog, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 2-9 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Dioxyde de titane Formulation (Génie chimique) Granulométrie Ingrédients cosmétiques Mesure Microscopie électronique en transmission Nanoparticules Oxyde de zinc Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Despite the UV performance benefits of particulate UV filters, concerns have been raised over their potential percutaneous permeation leading to the requirement of a specific approval for all nano UV filters in Europe. Under the legally binding definition of the Cosmetic regulation No. 1223/2009, nanomaterial means […] a material […] on the scale from 1 to 100 nm. The recommendation of the European Commission (2011/696/EU) revised 10 of June 2022 (2022/C229/01) further specifies that a material is nano when at least 50% of the number size distribution of the constituent particles is comprised between 1 and 100 nm. The situation for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide is confusing since the constituent particles are often part of agglomerates. Some suppliers clearly specify the nano feature of their material, while others declare the non-nano property of their inorganic products. The objective of this study was, therefore, to measure the number-based particle size distribution of three marketed Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide grades using the decision support flow scheme devised by the NanoDefine project. This group was created to support the identification of nanomaterials as required by the European legislation. We employed the tier 1 method asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation (AF4) coupled with UV and IC-PMS (inductively coupled plasma mass spectroscopy) detectors and tier 2 method transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The study clearly taught that the samples that appeared to be non-nanomaterials with AF4-IC-PMS measurements were finally proven to be nanomaterials using the TEM tier 2 method. Relying only on tier 1 methodologies such as AF4, X-Ray Disc Centrifuge or Dynamic Light Scattering to determine the non-nano property of a material is insufficient, since tier 1 methods are not able to detect constituent particles as part of agglomerates, which is often the case for Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. The status of being a non-nanomaterial can, in this case, only be certified with a tier 2 technique, particularly electron microscopy. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Samples of inorganic UV filters - Sunscreen market product - Particle size measurement methods - RESULTS : Asymmetrical flow field-flow fractionation - Transmission Electron MIcroscopy En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cR6X6diZiXzgjg00_rZyAvVldN9PMu8l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37924 [article]

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Solid sun care / Nora Schiemann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 16-18 Titre : Solid sun care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Nora Schiemann, Auteur ; Anne-Sophie Gardes, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 16-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques solides Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits antisolaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When we analyse new product launches a significant part is about solid product forms. In this context solid bar formats are the natural place to start. A much more concentrated formulation in terms of ingredients, solid formats can have a lower cost per use than traditional formats, which contain a lot more water, particularly in the haircare and bath or shower categories. Packaging of solid bars can provide further sustainable benefits, using biodegradable cardboard as opposed to the large plastic container required to house liquid shampoo. Mintel recommends that brands think more broadly when entering the waterless category than just eliminating water from the product. The true impact will come from how that product is used by the consumer, and more importantly, what is left over after the product is used up. Boosting a solid product form works very well with oil soluble ingredients and particles. However, these ingredients should support the skin barrier and not compromise the skin microbiome. Based on a product concept, which has been developed at the IMCD Skin Care and Sun Care Center of Excellence in Paris and which has been awarded by the SEPAWA Innovation Award 2021 we find a lot of inspiration. Note de contenu : - Solid product forms as an emerging trend - Considerations for sun care - Beauty Salon in a pill Box - finger beauty - Boosting ingredients - Formulation 1 : Solid sun cream with hydrating effects En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oc0L8AZEPqhAOuYPnky5eB5WUeD9EhB8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37925 [article]

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Bright partner for bright skin / Amélie Gafari in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 20-22 Titre : Bright partner for bright skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amélie Gafari, Auteur ; Joachim Hans, Auteur ; Marine Lochouarn, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-22 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Antiâge Nicotinamide Peau -- Soins et hygiène Taches pigmentaires (dermatologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As a pioneer explorer of the exposome, Symrise is constantly developing new solutions for pigmentation. Dark spots are now perceived as the new wrinkles, and Symrise has been exploring the paths to tackle this specific concern and looking for a bright partner with optimized efficacy. To capitalize on our blockbuster SymBright® 2036, we looked for a smart & efficient combination! Niacinamide – vitamin B3 – appeared as a perfect match to enhance the efficacy of SymBright® 2036 thanks to its multiple virtues leading to the development of SymBright® PLUS, a ready-to-use liquid blend. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CixOOgy9MDs7Zv5jGH_dZDOx4FEISyOU/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37926 [article]

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Irritated, itchy, scaly, seborrheic scalp / Liki von Oppen-Bezalel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 24-29 Titre : Irritated, itchy, scaly, seborrheic scalp : Causes and relief with a proprietary, cold-pressed nigella sativa (black seed) oil, standardized to 3% thymoquinone Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Auteur ; Julie S. Jurenka, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 24-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermatite sébhorrhéique Dermo-cosmétologie Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Nigella sativa et constituants La nigelle cultivée (Nigella sativa L. 1753) ou cumin noir est une espèce de plante annuelle de la famille des Renonculacées originaire du sud-ouest de l'Asie. Les graines sont utilisées comme remède traditionnel ou comme épice dans de nombreux pays du monde - Synonymes : Herbe aux épices, Cheveux de Vénus, Barbe des Capucins, Patte d'Araignée, Barbiche, Cheveux d'Ange. Les graines de cumin noir sont aussi appelée "poivrette". - Composition chimique : Les graines de nigelle cultivée contiennent des lipides, protéines, acides aminés, glucides (ou extrait non azoté, ENA), et des métabolites secondaires en quantité bien moins grande : terpénoïdes, polyphénols, alcaloïdes, acides organiques, tanins, des saponines, mucilage, des fibres et des vitamines. Les graines de cumin noir contiennent une forte teneur en huile grasse (31 %) constituée d'ester du glycérol des acides linoléique, oléique et palmitique. Avec en outre, des phospholipides, glycolipides, tocophérols, stérols et surtout les dérivés phénoliques actifs que sont la thymoquinone, la thymohydroquinone, et le thymol. La nigella sativa contient des saponosides, des composés phénoliques et des alcaloïdes. On obtient également de l'huile essentielle de nigelle par distillation à la vapeur d'eau de l'huile végétale obtenue par première pression à froid. - Activités pharmacologiques : Elle possède des composés antioxydants, anti-inflammatoires, sédatifs, contre l'hypertension, antivirales, contre la covid-19, contre l'obésité, le diabète de type 2, des propriétés antitumorales, antibactériennes et antifongiques. - Toxicologie : La toxicité de la nigelle est pratiquement nulle en ce qui concerne la consommation des graines, de l'huile ou de l'extrait aqueux.Seules la thymoquinone et l'huile essentielle possèdent une toxicité chez la souris en injection intrapéritonéale. Cependant, il manque encore des études sur la tolérance cutanée, la mutagénicité et le potentiel de toxicité de l'huile essentielle lorsqu'elle est absorbée par voie orale. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Medicinal herbs have been used as natural healing and cosmetic remedies since ancient times. The annual flowering plant, Nigella sativa, its black seeds and oil derived from them were used for medicinal and beauty routines since the ancient Egyptian pharaohs and queens. It has been studied more recently for its many health and cosmetic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antifungal benefits. To harness the power of the Nigella sativa (black seed) oil (BSO), its active constituent, thymoquinone, and their demonstrated benefits, a patent pending, cold-pressed, full-spectrum black seed oil, standardized to 3% thymoquinone and very low FFAs was developed. Branded as B’utyQuinâ„¢ for cosmetic use, BSO has been studied in vitro to determine the mechanisms responsible for skin disorders such as, irritated, itchy, scaly skin and scalp and seborrheic dermatitis. The studies included BSO’s antimicrobial effects on microorganisms such as Malassezia furfur, Candida albicans and Staphylococcus aureus, often associated with such disorders. This has been followed by clinical research to establish efficacy, safety and compatibility of BSO as a topical active ingredient for the scalp. BSO’s ability to positively impact the irritated, itchy, scaly scalp associated with seborrheic dermatitis has been revealed. In a blinded, controlled clinical trial in subjects with mild to moderate seborrheic dermatitis, topical application of scalp serum with 5% B’utyQuin for 28 days resulted in significant improvements in scalp oiliness, irritation, itchiness, scaling, and overall health of the scalp as compared to baseline. Note de contenu : - Seborrheic dermatitis - Black seed oil - In vitro research - Clinical research study - Clinical results discussion - Table BSO compositions for antimicrobial benefits En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l7mbrFJWpNjACp412L3XnrE5FEQ41Yoe/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37927 [article]

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Proven benefits on hair growth and nail quality in women of a recently developed dietary supplement / A. Derr in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 30-35 Titre : Proven benefits on hair growth and nail quality in women of a recently developed dietary supplement Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : A. Derr, Auteur ; U. Heinrich, Auteur ; D. Seiler, Auteur ; M. R. Götz, Auteur ; C. Neumeister, Auteur ; N. Braun, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Croissance Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Compléments alimentaires Dermo-cosmétologie Evaluation Ongles -- Soins et hygiènes Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Deficiency of micronutrients may represent a modifiable risk factor associated with the development, prevention, and treatment of decreased hair and nail quality or hair loss. The aim of this monocentric, single-arm intervention study was therefore to investigate whether taking a food supplement with a rational composition of components affects hair and nail quality in women. A validated and non-invasive tool, the Trichoscale method, was used to quantify hair loss / hair growth.Subjective evaluation of hair and nail quality was also carried out by subjects and experts using a questionnaire. Intake of the dietary supplement resulted in significant improvement in hair status in several key parameters.The number of hairs in the growth phase significantly increased when compared to baseline (+7.5% after 8 weeks, +10.7% after 16 weeks), as did the density of adult fully pigmented hairs per square centimetre (+2.6% after 8 weeks; +5.9% after 16 weeks). Hair and nail quality improved significantly according to both the self-evaluation of the female participants and the assessment by a dermatological expert. The results of the Trichoscale method and subjective evaluations consistently demonstrated the beneficial effects of a food supplement on hair growth and nail quality in women. Note de contenu : - Methods - Study conduct : Determination of hair status with the trichoscale method - Self-assessment of the volunteers - Results : Anagen rate [%] - Number of terminal hairs / tets field - expert evaluation of effectiveness - Self-assessment of the effectiveness by the subjects - Summary of results - Table 1 : Vitamins and nutrients contained in BIO-H-TIN hair essentials - Table 2 : Results of expert evaluation and subjects' self-assessment of hair and nails. Statistically significant differences are highlighted in lilac En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vdlgo1uyxIN_XWVyshIlXsxgWhr5H1jJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37928 [article]

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Aerobic spore-formers (Bacillus spp.) as contaminants of cosmetic products / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 36-40 Titre : Aerobic spore-formers (Bacillus spp.) as contaminants of cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur ; Joelle Nussbaum, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 36-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Bactéries -- Identification Contamination microbienne Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Evaluation Microbiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Aerobic spore-formers of the genus Bacillus are found as contaminants of cosmetic products. Therefore, the primary target is to avoid contaminations with these microorganisms. For this purpose, requirements are needed for raw materials-quality as well as for the hygiene-system in the production areas. Additionally, growth of these contaminants has to be avoided through an effective preservation of product-phases and the finished product. Usual preservative systems can be assumed to be effective against these spore-formers. Cosmetic products containing -counts in conformity with the limits given in ISO 17516 do not present a risk for the product or the health of the user. This applies for products used under usual conditions, and if the microorganisms are not able to multiply in the product and if the conformity of the batch with the required microbiological limits is proven in adequate control tests. Note de contenu : - Characteristics of teh Bacillus species - Appearance in cosmetic products : Detection and identification of aerobic spore-formers - Behavior of the contaminants in the product : Protection measures in the production area - Protection through preservation - Safety assessment in case of Bacillus-contaminations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XvHZMbpS5MYDOGlRMl6OVEy5YBvHpeUJ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37929 [article]

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How in-line, real-time rheology sensors can provide agile manufacturing in the rpersonal care sector / Thomas Machin in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 7/8 (07-08/2022) . - p. 42-45 Titre : How in-line, real-time rheology sensors can provide agile manufacturing in the rpersonal care sector Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Thomas Machin, Auteur ; Rob Travis, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 42-45 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Commerce électronique Cosmétiques Procédés de fabrication Rhéologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Rheology is the study of the way a material flows and is a key component in the manufacturing process of any liquid product. It is vital that this property is measured in the manufacture of household and personal care ingredients to enhance operational efficiency and ensure final product quality. Without the correct rheology, items like washing up liquid and shampoo would look and feel very different. As manufacturers in the personal care industry look to improve process efficiency and grow with demand, a new era of measurement technology is emerging. Real-time, in-line rheology measurements are supporting manufacturers with their efforts to innovate, create new ways to get their products to market, release capacity, and improve quality and agility in their manufacturing base. With the growing trends of e-commerce and a dynamic consumer market, Rob Travis and Thomas Machin, of Stream Sensing, discuss the importance of real-time process measurements in agile manufacturing. They take a look at how electrical resistance sensing can be used to monitor rheological properties, within the process line and look at the benefits which this emerging digital process technology could have across the sector. Note de contenu : - Explosion in E-commerce - From DTC to product personalisation - Data-driven product development and innovation - Limitations of traditional rheology measurement - Reimagining personalisation with in-line rheology sensors - Flowing towards greater agility and adaptability En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13QsXsapvh5Ll_tZZKLrqAKr_my2TcO5K/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37930 [article]

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