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The power of silicones in cosmetic applications : The science behind the performance / Sabrina Marchioretto in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 2-7 Titre : The power of silicones in cosmetic applications : The science behind the performance Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sabrina Marchioretto, Auteur ; Ingrid Vervier, Auteur ; Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur ; Kathy Plotzke, Auteur ; Beth Johnson, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Durée de vie (Ingénierie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Polydiméthylsiloxane Le polydiméthylsiloxane —[O-Si(CH3)2]n—, ou poly(diméthylsiloxane) selon la nomenclature systématique, communément appelé PDMS ou diméthicone, est un polymère organominéral de la famille des siloxanes souvent présent dans les shampoings. On l'y ajoute pour augmenter le volume des cheveux mais il peut également aller boucher les pores du cuir chevelu et rendre les cheveux gras. C'est une des raisons pour lesquelles se laver les cheveux tous les jours est très déconseillé avec un shampooing contenant des silicones. Il existe également de l'amodiméthicone, qui est un dérivé du diméthicone. Le polydiméthylsiloxane est un additif alimentaire (E900), utilisé comme antimoussant dans les boissons (Coca-Cola BlāK). La chaîne de poly(diméthylsiloxane) forme également la structure de base des huiles et des caoutchoucs silicones. shampooings Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With a long-standing history of safe use in personal care, silicones have changed the face of the beauty industry. They have unique, long-lasting properties that enable increased efficiency of finished formulations [1]. These properties fuel our imaginations, enable continuous performance innovation, and contribute to a more sustainable future. Unfortunately, there are misperceptions regarding the impact of silicones on the planet and on human safety which create consumer concerns. This article bridges the gap between myths and facts for the purpose of encouraging a transparent science-based dialogue. It covers safety, sustainability, and performance benefits – but it all begins with the unique chemistry of silicones. Note de contenu : - Silicone chemistry - Silicone chemistry physicochemical properties - Silicones beauty : Health, environment and safety of silicones - Silicone sustainability - Silicone truths vs myth - Fig. 1 : Traditional representation of polydimethylsiloxanes - Fig. 2 : Polydimethylsiloxane conformational arrangement on a polar substrate - Fig. 3 : Silicone deposition up to 10 shampoos (CIP-OES) - Fig. 4 : Silicone remobability with a clarifying shampoo (ICP-OES) - Fig. 5 : Color rub-off resistance of a mascara coated on a skin-mimicking substrate after friction cycles on a felt band (colorimeter) - Fig. 6 : In-vitro permeability of artificial skin (collagen) treated with neat materials (payne-cup test) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wkcA0wQzl_lGgqIU0i3KFq_PIfjUSNKt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37011 [article]

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Probiotic-derived ingredient for a new era in skin harmony / Maria Giovanna Bruno in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 8-11 Titre : Probiotic-derived ingredient for a new era in skin harmony Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maria Giovanna Bruno, Auteur ; Stefania Zanzottera, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 8-11 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge Barrière cutanée Biomolécules actives Microbiote Peau -- Soins et hygiène Probiotiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modern cosmetics is demanding of ingredients able to positively interact with skin ecosystem in which billions of microorganisms live and where the equilibrium of protective and pathogens should be maintained. The beauty industry is moving forward to find the way to incorporate in cosmetics recipes probiotics, prebiotics or probiotic derived ingredients, well known in food supplement market. The present paper aims at demonstrating the efficacy of a specific probiotic-derived ingredient able to strengthen skin barrier and its natural defenses promoting skin ecosystem well-being by preventing pathogens colonization. Note de contenu : - Methodology - Focus on a new probiotic-derived active ingredient for skin microbiota cara - Efficacy dossier : Modulation of inflammatory status - Prevention of pathogens colonization - Prevention of pathogens colonization - "Prebiotic" effect - Reduction of the SLS-induced redness and improvmeent of skin barrier - Reduction of the UV-induced redness - Reduction of skin agins signs En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eersVYgsNJfEIiY9qVZe9oLd3Geyw7Z8/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37012 [article]

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Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant / Elza B. Marangoni in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 12-17 Titre : Rhamnolipid : an eco- and skin-friendly alternative to synthetic surfactant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Elza B. Marangoni, Auteur ; Ticiane R. Rodrigues, Auteur ; Carla Porto, Auteur ; Rafaela T. R. Almeida, Auteur ; Maria I. Harris, Auteur ; Rita K. Oliveira, Auteur ; Dajara M. B. Moreira, Auteur ; Lucas G. S. Oliveira, Auteur ; Kaique J. Silva, Auteur ; Bruno Malito, Auteur ; Juliana S. Nakayama, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants Biosurfactants Chimie analytique Concentration micellaire critique Cosmétiques -- Analyse Démaquillants Evaluation Ingrédients cosmétiques Rhamnolipides Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The search for innovative and sustainable products that are less damaging to the skin is a matter of foremost importance in the cosmetics area. Chemical surfactants are widely used in cosmetic formulations, however, they have harmful effects, such as allergic reactions and skin irritations, therefore, it is evident that chemical surfactants need to be replaced by more sustainable compounds that present fewer or no negative effect on skin health. Biosurfactants have shown great potential, presenting advantages such as biodegradability, low toxicity, skin compatibility, increased protection and moisturizing effects. Rhamnolipids (RLs) are biosurfactants produced by some bacteria, mainly . Because of the presence of hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups in the same molecule, RLs present interesting emulsifying and surfactant properties, making them a suitable alternative to chemical surfactants in cosmetic formulations. In the current study, the properties of the biosurfactant produced by Apoena Biotech were investigated through surface tension tests, CMC, foam formation and stability, antioxidant potential and makeup removal. It was found that RL is a potential substitute or co-surfactant for chemical surfactants. In addition, its antioxidant activity makes it a multifunctional active that can provide benefits to the skin, besides its surfactant’s properties. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry analysis(UHPLC-MS/MS) - Evaluation of foam formation and stability - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as an active for make-yp remover lotion - RESULTS : Structural elucidation of RLs - Measurement of surface tension and CMC determination - Antioxidant potential - Evaluation of RLs as active for make-up remover lotion - Tableau 1 : Different rhamnolipid structures detected using UHPLC-MS/MS and respective relative areas (%) - Tableau 2 : Evaluation of RL's ability to reduce surface tension under different conditions En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rk-vJaD3Mb4OMuiWbm3LSK6MRQFtD0Jj/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37013 [article]

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Imaging and visualization : A game changer in claim substantiation / Remo Campiche in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 18-22 Titre : Imaging and visualization : A game changer in claim substantiation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Remo Campiche, Auteur ; Mathias Gempeler, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Cosmétiques Imagerie (technique) Justification de l'allégation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Visualizing the effects of skin treatment is a key aspect of claim substantiation and the successful promotion of skin care applications. To create visuals, we have employed innovative image acquisition and image processing technologies in various ways. For example, to visualize the effects of anti-aging skin care applications we have used wrinkle segmentation on high resolution images. And with our award-winning facial color mapping technology, we can readily show differences in skin hydration and detect areas of dry and well hydrated skin both in 2D and 3D. Recently, we extended this approach to map significance and relevance as well. In this article, we present an overview of the main imaging and visualization procedures we use to substantiate claims when promoting cosmetic actives. Note de contenu : - Image acquisition - Continuous facial color mapping - Mapping wrinkles through segmentation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z45KEBNEbuaL5-dwQ8GOqk8ln7bC8dLE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37014 [article]

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Microbiological quality management for the control of quality costs (Part 2) / Joelle Nussbaum in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 24-31 Titre : Microbiological quality management for the control of quality costs (Part 2) Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joelle Nussbaum, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 24-31 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse des défaillances (fiabilité) Assurance qualité Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Coût -- Contrôle Microbiologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The definition and implementation of measures to ensure microbiological product stability, the success controls for the established measures, the detection of internal and external failures as well as their corrections cause costs, the so-called quality costs. Cosmetic companies are interested in minimizing these costs during the production of cosmetics. The aim of this document is to present a concept for a possible cost-saving potential for microbiological expenses in the development and production of cosmetics without compromising the product safety. Every cost-saving consideration is first preceded by an analysis of the failure potentials that could lead to a negative impact on the end product. In every process - whether in product planning, product development or manufacturing of cosmetics - a multitude of such potential failure opportunities can be identified, which are evaluated according to the probability that they will lead to a significant reduction in the quality of the end product. Corresponding protective measures have to be defined and implemented. The next step is to consider the potential for saving testing costs and to implement cost-optimized measures. It is obvious that such optimization measures should be defined at the earliest when it can be demonstrated over a longer period of time that the entire process regarding quality planning, development and manufacturing leads to consistently good results with regard to microbiological purity and stability of the finished product. Optimization measures should be defined with a sense of proportion and evaluated for suitability by considering the entire process. Note de contenu : - Quality costs - potential savings : General considerations - Determining saving potentials - Concluding remarks - Table 1 : Practical examples En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lo4bdKWti4k609ZJBilYQMUxSTmY3hTE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37015 [article]

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Pre-screening rinse surfactants for more sustainable ADW formulations / Johannes Bookhold in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 12 (12/2021) . - p. 30-35 Titre : Pre-screening rinse surfactants for more sustainable ADW formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Johannes Bookhold, Auteur ; Hannah Benson, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détergents Produits chimiques -- Sélection Ressources renouvelables Rinçage Surfactants Vaisselle -- Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Rinse surfactants are core ingredients of automatic dishwashing (ADW) product formulations, integral to key performance aspects. As Home Care product launches with environmental and ethical claims now exceed those without, formulators require the support of ingredient developers to quickly identify new more sustainable surfactant options suitable for delivering on these criteria plus consumer-demanded high effectiveness in rinse performance. To effectively achieve this balance, the surfactant creator is challenged to replace some or all ingredient building blocks with more renewable, sustainable alternatives. Supporting more efficient and systematic surfactant development for sustainable ADW formulations, Clariant has introduced a new system for efficiently pre-screening surfactant characteristics and relating them to required ADW performance benefits. The process advantages extend beyond Clariant’s faster and resource-saving development of market-relevant ingredients. The pre-screening also provides performance indicators plus temperature and concentration dependent measurements to support customers’ selection of surfactants based on specific needs and formulations. This paper details the unique combination of laboratory methods employed to ultimately select the best-performing surfactant within a product group. The pre-screening study example features renewable substances with RCI >50% compared to benchmark petrochemical-based products. Note de contenu : - Introduction : Efficiently finding ingredients for changing needs - Pre-screening study : selecting the best-performing surfactant : Materials - Main pre-screening methods - Parameters - Results : Rinse capability - relative dynamic surface pressure - Rinse performance - QCM-D measurements - On steel - On glass - Validation trial - Additional performance insights - Conclusion - Discussion : Identifying rinse aids for customers En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X_Ni5mapcxsRu7CnQfU3MaB_Z_jLx3Ad/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37016 [article]

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