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Minimal care - spa-feeling for skin and hair / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 2-5 Titre : Minimal care - spa-feeling for skin and hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Emina Besic Gyenge, Auteur ; Stefan Hettwer, Auteur ; Barbara Obermayer, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 2-5 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydratation Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits hydratants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin minimalism or minimal skin care is a new trend that is taking hold in the cosmetics world. On the one hand, it is about formulating as few different ingredients as possible into cosmetic products, and on the other hand, it is about creating maximum beauty effects with only one active ingredient, for example. Here we present two hydration products that can do just that. In Skin Care and also in Hair Care. Note de contenu : - In-vivo skin studies - Ex-vivo hair studies En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K1rsSg2U4zA5uoYkp-r8mnRKObMzylWo/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36986 [article]

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Anti-inflammatory and scalp care efficacy of a multi-herb extraction against malassezia furfur / Yina Lu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 6-11 Titre : Anti-inflammatory and scalp care efficacy of a multi-herb extraction against malassezia furfur Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yina Lu, Auteur ; Jun Tian, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 6-11 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermatite sébhorrhéique Dermatites fongiques Dermo-cosmétologie Eczéma constitutionnel Essais (technologie) Malassezia Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé :  Malassezia furfur is a lipophilic and dermatological pathogenic yeast, which normally exists on human skin, and causes tinea versicolor, seborrhoeic dermatitis, and atopic dermatitis, especially on human scalp. The multi-herb extraction VGP which consists of Vitex trifolia fruit, Gentiana scabra, and Polygonum multiflorum root extract was used to study its effect of anti-inflammation, controlling sebum and dandruff on scalp care. Results showed that on the model of NHEK and THP1 cell inflammation induced by Malassezia furfur, VGP can inhibit the expression of interleukin 6 (IL-6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2), monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 (MCP-1) and interleukin 1β (IL-1β) in a dose-dependent manner under 0.01% to 0.125% concentration. On the inflammatory model of 3D reconstructed skin induced by H2O2, VGP significantly improved the cell viability and skin structure, and reduced the production of interleukin 8 (IL-8), PGE-2, and leukotriene B4 (LTB4). During 4 week’s treatment with test shampoo contained 0.5% VGP thrice a week on 16 subjects met with different symptom, VGP reduced the sebum content and TEWL, improved the redness, itching and dandruff on human scalp skin. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient VGP can play a role in scalp care and skin care by targeting inflammation. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : VGP preparation - Maintenance of cells - Anti-inflammatory experiments on cells - Anti-inflammatory experiments on 3D reconstructed skin - Scalp care test in vivo - Statistical analysis - RESULTS : Anti-inflammatory efficacy of VGP against M. furfur on cells - VGP inhibited the inflammation and cell damage on reconstructed skin - VGP reduced the itching and redness of human scalp skin En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fHsMXBQzG3UwovFof_wsjz_WoYMRYdbR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36987 [article]

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New method for connecting sunscreens with consumers via a relative eco-score / Gernot Kunze in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 12-17 Titre : New method for connecting sunscreens with consumers via a relative eco-score Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gernot Kunze, Auteur ; Alexander Schlifke, Auteur ; Hefner Hefner, Auteur ; Eileen Jackson, Auteur ; Katja Berg, Auteur ; Anne Janssen, Auteur ; Jürgen Vollhardt, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 12-17 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Consommateurs -- Préférences Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Dermo-cosmétologie Etiquetage écologique Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits antisolaires Produits chimiques Recherche de l'information Systèmes d'aide à la décision Systèmes d'information Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In sun care products, UV filters are the most important active substances, protecting the user against UV radiation. Recently, these substances have been linked to concerns about application safety and potential harmful effects on the environment. Ample human safety data and environmental compatibility studies are available already, but nevertheless, the debate about the possible impact of UV filters, in particular in relation to coral systems, has received widespread public attention. Consumers want to make the best choices for protecting the environment, but that is only possible with deep expert knowledge. The aim of this project, therefore, was to create an easy-to-comprehend information system, and ideally a logo as well, to facilitate decision-making. The system needs to use all available knowledge on the eco-compatibility features of UV filters and connects all available data in a transparent and logical manner. A newly developed computer-aided system helps sunscreen developers to design, or simply rate and compare their sunscreen products. The option of comparing products to a virtual eco-benchmark, based on the median of an eco-score distribution of hundreds of marketed sunscreens, takes comparison to a new level. Public product databases were analyzed with a smart algorithm to derive the necessary individual sunscreen eco-scores. The result of this comparison is an easy-to-comprehend, relative eco-label, designed to connect directly with consumers and to give them the choice of purchasing the best available products for the environment. Note de contenu : - UV filters are in the spotlight of health and environmental matters and consumer judgement - Three steps to eco-friendly sun protection - how does it work ? : Step 1 - UV filter evaluation - Step 2 - UV filter composition in a sunscreen - Step 3 - Relative eco-compatibility classification based on market data for existing sunscreens - Eco-data calculation system for designing a new formula or rating an existing one - Table 1 : Overview of scoring systems for individual UV absorbers - Table 2 : Scoring in the case of an absence of chronic datasets based on solubility and result of the P parameter En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/14QsEP11Tj0YvdqZQYDWoVlXDbIFFJ4Od/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36988 [article]

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Eco-friendly ingredients for biodegradable cosmetic products / Anja Stork in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 18-22 Titre : Eco-friendly ingredients for biodegradable cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anja Stork, Auteur ; Werner Mauer, Auteur ; Arne Ptock, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 18-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Opacifiants Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits chimiques -- Biodégradation Ressources renouvelables Stabilisants (chimie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Modern consumers want cosmetic products that are free from ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment. At the same time, consumers also expect products to deliver outstanding performance and attractive sensory properties. Cosmetics manufacturers face challenges when trying to meet these expectations while also operating in line with associated regulatory changes such as those regarding microplastics. New, readily biodegradable and renewable-based innovations such as the opacifier Euperlan® OP White and the stabilizer Lamesoft® Balance offer manufacturers sustainable ingredients for hair and skin cleansing products that are able to match or exceed the performance of traditional ingredients. Note de contenu : - A sustainable alternative to synthetic polymer-based opacifiers - An eco-friendly ingredient for stabilizing rinse-off formulations - The performance and physical properties of Euperlan OP white - The performance and physical properties of Lamesoft Balance En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/161zmgfmsPL0fpSF6fZMEko-jNT4qwL1l/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36989 [article]

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A readily biodegradable alternative to microplastic opacifiers / Florence Bussod in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 24-29 Titre : A readily biodegradable alternative to microplastic opacifiers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Florence Bussod, Auteur ; Hocine Kabir, Auteur ; Céline Orizet, Auteur ; Ali Sahouane, Auteur ; Sujandi Zhou, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 24-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement Essais accélérés (technologie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Microplastiques Opacifiants Produits chimiques -- Biodégradation Stabilité chimique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The personal and home care market is under continual development and raw material manufacturers need to develop new products to anticipate new consumer needs and regulation evolutions. Hygiene and care products are an integral part of our daily lives, and unfortunately the same goes for plastics. It is present in large quantities in cosmetics and home care products, mostly in the form of synthetic polymers that are used for instance for exfoliation, opacification or rheology modification. However, in recent years, the use of plastics and especially microplastics is at the heart of many controversies and debates due to their impact on the environment and health. It is required to find some alternatives. In this context, Solvay has developed a naturally-derived biodegradable opacifying agent to replace the existing solution based on Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS : Mackadet OPR-2 - Styrene/acrylates copolymer - Fomulations - METHODS : Raw material ageing test - Formulation ageing test - Opacifying performance - RESULTS : Opacifying performance in a simplified personal care formula - In formulations containing dyes - Opacifying performance in hand dis application - Stability results - Limitations & solutions - Table 1 : Typical simplified personal care formula En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DHCoLR4oc-NWBU5y8Dqfd-3hiec-Lawc/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36990 [article]

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Cleaning more, for less - a sustainable liquid laundry concentrate / Claudia Sturm in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 147, N° 11 (11/2021) . - p. 30-34 Titre : Cleaning more, for less - a sustainable liquid laundry concentrate Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Claudia Sturm, Auteur ; Fanélie Jaeglé, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 30-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Détergents liquides Développement durable Eau -- Consommation -- Réduction Emballages Emballages -- Consommation -- Réduction Formulation (Génie chimique) Lessives Produits chimiques -- Suppression ou remplacement Surfactants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : When looking at the current trends within the laundry sector, it is clear, consumers are looking for more sustainable solutions. They are demanding laundry products that can help to reduce consumption of plastic packaging and that will have a longer-term approach to the world’s water scarcity issues. However, the trends in consumption tell a different story. As the use of powdered laundry detergent continues its steady decline, consumers are increasingly turning to the more convenient, but less sustainable, liquid laundry capsules, rather than the liquid laundry option which is remaining flat. At IMCD we have looked at how the formulation of new liquid laundry concentrates can help to meet the consumer demand for ‘greener’ solutions, reduce the amount of packaging and water required and remove the need for more the complicated manufacturing and formulation processes required by PVOH film pods. This article will demonstrate how a 25ml liquid laundry concentrate can maintain comparable cleaning performance and physical stability to liquid capsules from a leading European brand, while using more sustainable raw materials, and providing cost effective choices. The success of this solution will, however, lie with manufacturers to develop a suitably flexible and convenient package to ensure ease and accuracy of use for end-users. Note de contenu : - Our approach - Cleaning performance of various surfactants : Procedure - Results - Obstacles and solutions - From economical to ecological, a proposal for 25 mL liquid laundry concentrates - Table 1 : Stains test - Table 2 : Formulation bases - Table 3 : Test stains - Table 4 : Proposed formulations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YLBtZColoMsXoQt821pgZFf7sL7Mc5ZD/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36991 [article]

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