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Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends / Delvallé Cindy in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Delvallé Cindy, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Garaud, Auteur ; Lanxade Julie, Auteur ; Sabrina Marchioretto, Auteur ; Almeida Daniel, Auteur ; Tafarelo Natalia, Auteur ; Engerer Paige, Auteur ; Aliro Do Vale Isabel, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Cyclopentasiloxane Gommes et résines Produits capillaires Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As consumers become increasingly eco-conscious, the personal care and cosmetics market is seeing a rise in demand for biobased and sustainable products. This article presents four new silicone gum blends developed by Dow that are designed to meet these demands without sacrificing performance within hair care formulas. As the market sees growing demand for products that achieve the same performance associated with silicone gum blends using alternative carriers including bio-processed materials and renewable sources, four new blends are now available, designed to meet this need and built from the same silicone gum as traditional blends using cyclopentasiloxane as a carrier. The four blends provide formulators with a new level of flexibility of variety and criteria, including volatility, manufacturing process and the sustainability profile. The blends also now offer a carrier toolbox approach built around the same dimethiconol gum. Hair care formulations created with these blends can achieve smoothness and conditioning while also reaching modern environmental standards. Combining these blends creates additional options for formulators and allows for fine-tuning for specific sets of desired formulation properties and benefits, beyond the traditional performance of silicone gum blends. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods : Sample preparation – Hair care testing - Volatility profile - Volatility valued - Comb comfortably : hair combing benefits - Shine on - Silky smooth : Hair sensory benefits - Go for smoothness : coefficient of friction - Look after your locks : Heat protection - A win for skin - Fig. 1 : New silicone gum blends overview - Fig. 2 : Volatility profiles (32°C) of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend - Fig. 3 : Hair combing performance of new silicone gum blends in cmparison to cyclopentasiloxane-based blend - Fig. 4 : Shine performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxanebased blend - Fig. 5 : Sensory on hair of 2 cSt gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentzsiloxane-based blend - Fig. 6 : Coefficient of friction performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend - Fig. 7 : Heat protection performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend - Fig. 8 : Sensory profle of C13-15 alkane-based silicone gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OMQhzDmMYr3IrxcUjpMDlmZbLCARmKO2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35000 [article]

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Next generation dandruff control in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 8-13 Titre : Next generation dandruff control Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 8-13 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Antipelliculaires Biomolécules actives Caprylate de propanediol Cosmétiques Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Produits capillaires shampooings Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Dandruff is a global phenomenon and the need for cosmetic products to relieve symptoms like flaking, itching and redness remains high [1]. Anti-dandruff consumer products in the cosmetics market typically rely on the use of strong anti-fungal ingredients. Three conventional actives are commonly used from a global perspective : zinc pyrithione, climbazole and piroctone-olamine. Except for a limited selection of multifunctionals, some blends or natural extracts, there has been no major new active launched to market for decades. In this article we present an entirely new solution : propanediol caprylate (Crinipan® PMC green), a novel molecule for cosmetic applications, developed to serve multiple needs: comparable efficacy to conventional anti-dandruff actives, natural origin, green chemistry, sustainability, new mode of action and simple formulating. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Production process – Antimicrobial efficacy against malassezia – Determination of microbial ester cleavage – In vivo study assessing reduction of dandruff – Physicochemistry : Effect on foam and sensorial properties - RESULTS : In vitro efficacy – In vivo efficacy – Physicochemistry : Effect on foam and sensorial properties - Fig. 1 : Suggested mechanism for propanediol caprylate’s mode of action ; presence of malassezia spp « activates » propanediol caprylate to release the active caprylic acid - Fig. 2 : The IC values for propanediol caprylate are in a similar range as for caprylic acid. The efficacy of caprylic acid can be used for cosmetic purpose by applying its ester - Fig. 3 : Rinse off shampoo study : propanediol caprylate reduces dandruff significantly in a 30 days studyvs placebo and achieves comparable results to the established anti-dandruff benchmark climbazole - Fig. 4 : Physicochemical behavior : Propanediol caprylate improves foam and sensorial experience of skin - Table 1 : Malassezia test strains - Table 2 : In vivo shampoo study ; test shampoos - Table 3 : In vivo shampoo study ; conditioning phase ; mild wash-out shampoo from the market En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XABUolaFKuZuk77h_1NEB10nLy23emq0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35001 [article]

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A new peptide mimicking a good sleep in times of pandemia / Miriam Mateu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 14-19 Titre : A new peptide mimicking a good sleep in times of pandemia Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Miriam Mateu, Auteur ; Patricia Carulla, Auteur ; Marco J. Klein, Auteur ; Ariadna Grau-Campistany, Auteur ; Silvia Pastor, Auteur ; Meritxell Llinas, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 14-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Glycation Inflammation Interleukines Les interleukines (IL) sont un groupe de cytokines, ainsi nommées car les premières observations semblaient montrer qu'elles étaient exprimées par les globules blancs (leucocytes, d'où -leukin) en guise de moyen de communication (d'où inter-). Les interleukines sont produites par une large variété de tissus et cellules, et que, bien que regroupées sous cette terminologie par commodité, elles ne présentent aucune parenté biochimique ni de fonction entre elles. Elles ont été classées par numéro au gré des découvertes. Au début 2006, 31 cytokines sont connues et dénommées sous l'intitulé IL. La fonction du système immunitaire dépend en grande partie des interleukines et de rares déficiences de certaines d'entre elles ont été décrites, conduisant à des maladies auto-immunes ou des immunodéficiences. Mélatonine Peptides Sommeil Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Regularly skipping sleep is associated with chronic low inflammation, oxidative stress and weakened immune system. These three factors are interconnected and all of them generate further inflammation, oxidative stress and worsen the immune system. The alarmin interleukin IL-33 is a pro-inflammatory cytokine released upon cell damage activating the immune response and inducing oxidative stress and further inflammation. IL-33 is over-expressed in conditions of chronic inflammation like a topic dermatitis and obstructive sleep apnea. Sleep disturbance also presents high levels of glucose which may glycate proteins of the skin and the endothelial and lymphatic vessels, weakening their integrity and producing oxidative stress and more inflammation. In addition, melatonin levels are decreased, which not only affects its circadian role but also as a potent antioxidant and antiglycant. iPeptide™ is a peptide that was discovered to down-regulate IL-33 expression through a Big Data analysis. It showed to modulate chronic inflammation and damages induced by hyperglycemia due to sleep deprivation. It also presented a melatonin-like protection effect and reinforced the first line of immune defense. In vivo, it decreased fatigue features, awakened sleepy lookand had a local cool effect. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Gene expression modulation of sleep deprivation – Modulation of IL-33 release – Regulating hyperpigmentation – De-stressing capillarity – Reinforcing lymphatic integrity – Melatonin-like protection against glycation and lipid peroxidatione – Melatonin-like modulation of the epidermal immune protection – Guarding from hyperglycemia damage – Anti-fatigue efficacy in sleep deprived volunteers – Refreshing effect in sleep deprived volunteers - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Gene expression modulation of sleep deprivation – Modulation of IL-33 release – Regulating hyperpigmentation – De-stressing capillarity – Reinforcing lymphatic integrity – Melatonin-like protection against glycation and lipid peroxidation – Melatonin-like modulation of the epidermal immune protection – Guarding from hyperglycemia damage – Anti-fatigue efficacy in sleep deprived volunteers – Refreshing effect in sleep deprived volunteers - Fig. 1 : Melatonin-like protection of the peptide against glycationand lipid peroxidation - Fig. 2 : Protection against glycation of human skin explants treated with MGO and non-treated and treated with 0.005 mg/mL ofpeptide. Fibrillin-1 in green - Fig. 3 : Increase of the angle of the eye opening (+21%) in a 59-year-old volunteer before applying a cream with 0.015 mg/m/ of peptide and after 28 days - Fig. 4 : Fatigue features improvement, which is the average of tiredness, dark circles, eyebags and wrinkles - Fig. 5 : Local cooling effect (-0.7°C) in a volunteer of 35 years old before applying a cream with 0.015 mg/mL of peptide and after 28 days - Fig. 6 : Dark circles improvement in a 37-year-old volunteer applying a cream with 0.015 mg/mL of peptide and after one week En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mOAQywzRfktLYNaWWiMLmZWyVYXfSm75/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35002 [article]

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The extracellular metabolite of bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 as the next generation cosmetic ingredient / Muhammed Majeed in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 20-23 Titre : The extracellular metabolite of bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 as the next generation cosmetic ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Muhammed Majeed, Auteur ; Lakshmi Mundkur, Auteur ; Shaheen Majeed, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 20-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antimicrobiens Biodégradation Ecotoxicologie Ingrédients cosmétiques Métabolites Nutricosmétique Peptides Probiotiques Sécurité des produits de consommation Tests de sécurité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - METHODS : Effect of bacillus ferment filtrate extract on preserving the extracellular matrix – Antimicrobial activity of bacillus ferment filtrate extract – Safety studies - RESULTS : Effect of bacillus ferment filtrate extract on preserving the extracellular matrix – Antimicrobial activity of bacillus ferment filtrate extract - SAFETY AND TOXICITY : Effect of bacillus ferment filtrate extract on in vitro ocular safety in SIRC cell lines – Effect of bacillus ferment filtrate extract on bacterial reverse mutation in salmonella typhymurium tester strains - ECOTOXICITY STUDIES : Growth inhibition study of bacillus ferment filtrate extract on freshwater algae (pseudokirchneriella subcapitata) – Ready biodegradability – Stability and future applications Note de contenu : The concepts in beauty are constantly changing, bringing novel innovations in the cosmetic industry. The industry is also adapting to eco-friendly ingredients and packaging technologies, biodegradable cosmetics, environmentally safe products, and innovations to preserve the skin microbiome. We have earlier reported the extracellular metabolite from the probiotic strain Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 to have antimicrobial and skin protection activities. We examined the skin and environmental safety aspects of the ingredient in the present study. The studies were conducted as per the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) guidelines. Mutagenicity potential was studied by the Ames test. Environmental safety was conducted to assess the effect of the ingredient on microalgae and other zooplankton. LactoSporin was found to be safe in the ecotoxicity studies at a concentration of 100 mg/ L. It was readily biodegradable and was nonmutagenic. These results suggest that LactoSporin is an eco-friendly cosmetic ingredient with antimicrobial and skin-protecting properties. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/13wY5mw-dRKfjmtaEsUp8M8meff9GWRh0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35003 [article]

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Evaluation of health risks caused by microorganisms in cosmetic products / Ulrich Eigener in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 24-28 Titre : Evaluation of health risks caused by microorganisms in cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrich Eigener, Auteur ; Joelle Nussbaum, Auteur ; Rainer Simmering, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contamination microbienne Cosmétiques Cosmétiques -- Aspect sanitaire Evaluation du risque Risques pour la santé Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Microbial contamination of cosmetic products may under certain conditions lead to a health risk of the consumer. Such health hazards obviously appear very rarely if the consumers are in good health and consequently there are no reports of such cases. However, due to the pathogenic character of some microorganisms found as contaminants in cosmetic products, health hazards cannot be excluded and have also been demonstrated in predisposed users. Therefore, microbiologically safe products must guarantee not to cause a health risk for the user. The requirement for sufficiently safe microbial counts can only be fulfilled through a suitable formulation providing an efficient preservation, through a safe manufacturing process and the application of adequate control measures. These targets require all personnel to act responsibly in each process area involved. Respective effective procedures and measures demand a quality management system (based on MQM), which also ensures the qualified performance of microbiological activities including professionally made decisions and risk assessments. Note de contenu : - Microbiological quality of cosmetic products - Microorganisms in cosmetic products and health hazards : Influencing factors : microorganisms and host – Risk assessment - Avoiding microbial health risks En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NR58jVRBDpi2EVIapRV7TIXfhBlfv1Kn/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35004 [article]

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HLB – Alternative concepts / Arjan Gelissen in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 24-28 Titre : HLB – Alternative concepts Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Arjan Gelissen, Auteur ; Renke Rommerskirchen, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsions Equilibre hydrophile-lipophile Inversion de phase (chimie) Microémulsions Surfactants Index. décimale : 660.2 Génie chimique Résumé : Alternative classification concepts of emulsifiers have to cope with HLB’s main flaw, which is assigning a single, “universal”, calculated number to an emulsifier, as discussed in our previous paper. For emulsions, the influence of the oil phase needs to be considered as well as temperature, pH or salinity. Both alternatives to HLB discussed here make use of a thermodynamic equilibrium state as a reference – in case of oil/water/surfactant this means a microemulsion. The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Deviation (HLD) describes the deviation of an entire formulation of water, oil, and a surfactant from the optimum, balanced reference state. From this the characteristic curvature (Cc) of surfactants can be determined, which is a number that describes their hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity. In contrast, the PIT-slope method characterizes the hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity of a surfactant in relation to C10E4 in an octane/water system; therefore, it is also able to capture all effects of molecular structure of the surfactant. Note de contenu : - Basics – Emulsions and microemulsions - HLD - PIT-slope - Table 1 : General differences between (macro-)emulsions andmicroemulsions - Fig. 1 : Idealized fish diagram of oil/water/surfactant to explain the formation of microemulsions - Fig. 2 : Optimum salinity of di-hexyl sulfosuccinate sodium salt with varying EACN at 25°C En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aqygJ7v---6UJbl2KRfLgg3Fbk3GJFAu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35005 [article]

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New forms of trademarks - "Sensual" intellectual property rights for cosmetics in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p.34-38 Titre : New forms of trademarks - "Sensual" intellectual property rights for cosmetics Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p.34-38 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Brevets d'invention -- Droit Cosmétiques Droit d'auteur Marques de commerce Propriété intellectuelle Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Trademarks reflect our lifestyle like no other intellectual property right. Traditional trademarks in the form of words, pictures, three-dimensional forms and colors today still enjoy great popularity in the field of cosmetics, detergents and cleaners. However, in times when manufacturers and traders offer a plethora of products and the brand awareness of the customer increases, also the demand for signs with high prestige and recognition value will increase. Since 1 October 2017 European trademark applications and since 14 January 2019 national German trademark applications no longer have to be capable of graphic representation. As a result, new forms of trademarks open imaginative possibilities for companies to assign the goods and services they offer to their company. However, this liberalization does not cover all potentially interesting forms of trademarks. In particular, olfactory marks are still excluded from registration because the European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) as well as the German Patent and Trademark Office (DPMA, Deutsches Patent- und Markenamt) both take the position that a smell cannot be clearly and unambiguously identified with currently available technology. In this article, we report which additional forms of trademarks are now available and how they can be used effectively in the field of cosmetics, detergents and cleaning agents. Note de contenu : - NEW SENSUAL TRADEMARKS FOR COSMETICS - SMELL/OLFACRORY MARKS ARE STILL NOT PERMITTED : Representation and description in words – Chemical formula – Deposit of a sample - EXCURSUS : FRAGRANCES AAS INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY : Trademarks cannot protect fragrances per se – Patent protection – Copyright - Fig. 1 : Traditional trademarks in the field of cosmetics, detergents and cleaning products - Fig. 2 : EUIPO and DPMA have dropped the requirement of graphical representation - Fig. 3 : New trade mark shapes - Fig. 4 : Important decisions regarding smell marks : Permittes (single case 1999) : "The odor of freshly cut grass" - Rejected (current official view) : "The odor of a ripe strawberry" En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aG734-Zzjx6ZLftfcdMN8S5r77Q6PGv0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35006 [article]

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