Dépouillements

A Swiss glacier bacterium to vitalize tired skin / Christina Pickel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 2-7 Titre : A Swiss glacier bacterium to vitalize tired skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Christina Pickel, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur ; Daniel Schmid, Auteur ; Bernhard Henes, Auteur ; Fred Zülli, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-fatigue (cosmétique) Antiâge:Antirides Bactéries Cosmétiques Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Fibroblastes Molécules chaperonnes Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today’s society is characterized by demanding jobs, long working hours and an increasingly hectic lifestyle, which frequently results in a lack of sleep. This is often markedly reflected of the skin by a tired appearance of the face. Recent research showed that also on the molecular level, lack of sleep causes stress and leads to premature aging. A major stress mechanism, the unfolded protein response (UPR) of the endoplasmic reticulum (ER), gets compromised by sleep deprivation, leading to the accumulation of misfolded proteins which damage the cell. To target this novel cellular aging mechanism, an extract of the psychrotolerant Swiss glacier bacterium Iodobacter ssp. was developed and analyzed for its efficacy to reduce ER stress and visible signs of tiredness. Treatment of aged fibroblasts with the extract led to an increase in the expression of ER chaperones which mediate the UPR and energized cells through an increase of ATP levels in a cellular model of sleep deprivation. Placebo-controlled randomized clinical studies conducted with sleep-deprived and overworked volunteers demonstrated that treatment with the Iodobacter-derived active ingredient IceAwake™ improved several skin parameters associated with skin aging, leading to a vitalized and rejuvenated appearance. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Lack of sleep impacts on the cellular stress response - Harnessing the potential of extremophile organisms - A freshness kick for tired skin with a swiss glacier bacterium - METHODS AND RESULTS : Iodobacter ssp. extract re-activates chaperone expression in aged fibroblasts - ER stress is reduced by iodobacter ssp. extract in a cellular model of sleep deprivation - IceAwakeTM ameliorate visible signs of tiredness in mixed study population - Fig. 1 : Gene expression of chaperone genes in aged fibroblasts treated with Iodobacter ssp. extract relative to untreated cells - Fig. 2 : ATP levels in AD fibroblasts upon treatment with Iodobacter ssp. extract relative to untreated cells - Fig. 3 : Quantification of MAM contact points in healthy cells or AD fibroblasts treated with the Iodobacter active or left untreated - Fig. 4 : Immunofluorescence staining of MAM contact points in healthy cells or AD fibroblasts treated with the Iodobacter active or left untreated - Fig. 5 : Decrease of wrinkle depth upon treatment with IceAwake™ - Fig. 6 : Reduction of tired appearance upon treatment with IceAwake™ - Fig. 7 : Visible improvement of wrinkle depth and dark circles with IceAwake™ - Fig. 8 : Increase in radiance with IceAwake™ En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1loBLI9V-EftSW37JaxNslSg-kvYiOCzi/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33820 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

A shot of well-being for healthy skin / Philippe Moussou in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 8-10 Titre : A shot of well-being for healthy skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; Sabrina Leoty-Okombi, Auteur ; Carole Boury, Auteur ; Florence Trombini, Auteur ; Valérie André-Frei, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 8-10 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Actifs anti-fatigue (cosmétique) Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Extraction (chimie) Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polyphénols Les polyphénols constituent une famille de molécules organiques largement présente dans le règne végétal. Ils sont caractérisés, comme l’indique le nom, par la présence d'au moins deux groupes phénoliques associés en structures plus ou moins complexes, généralement de haut poids moléculaire. Ces composés sont les produits du métabolisme secondaire des plantes. Les polyphénols prennent une importance croissante, notamment grâce à leurs effets bénéfiques sur la santé. En effet, leur rôle d’antioxydants naturels suscite de plus en plus d'intérêt pour la prévention et le traitement du cancer, des maladies inflammatoires, cardiovasculaires et neurodégénératives. Ils sont également utilisés comme additifs pour les industries agroalimentaire, pharmaceutique et cosmétique "Ils ont tous en commun la présence d'un ou plusieurs cycles benzéniques portant une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyles". La désignation "polyphénols" est consacrée par l'usage et, alors qu'elle ne devrait concerner que les molécules portant plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle phénolique, elle est habituellement utilisée pour l'ensemble de ces composés. Les polyphénols naturels regroupent donc un vaste ensemble de substances chimiques comprenant au moins un noyau aromatique, portant un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, en plus d’autres constituants. Il y a quatre principales familles de composés phénoliques : les acides phénoliques (catéchol, acide gallique, acide protocatéchique), les flavones, l'acide chlorogénique et les quinones. Ils peuvent aller de molécules simples, comme les acides phénoliques, à des composés hautement polymérisés, de plus de trente mille daltons, comme les tanins (acide tannique). Les polyphénols sont communément subdivisés en phénols simples, acides phénoliques et coumarines, en naphtoquinones, en stilbénoïdes (deux cycles en C6 liés par deux atomes de carbone), en flavonoïdes, isoflavonoïdes et anthocyanes, et en formes polymérisées : lignanes, lignines, tanins condensés. Ces squelettes carbonés de base sont issus du métabolisme secondaire des plantes, élaborés par la voie du shikimate. Les polyphénols sont présents dans diverses substances naturelles : sous forme d'anthocyanine dans les fruits rouges, le vin rouge (en relation avec les tanins, phénomène du "paradoxe français"), sous forme de proanthocyanidines dans le chocolat et le vin, d'acides caféoylquinique et féruloylquinique dans le café, de flavonoïdes dans les agrumes, et sous forme de catéchines comme le gallate d'épigallocatéchine dans le thé vert, de quercétine dans les pommes, les oignons, le vin rouge, etc. D'après une étude réalisée avec des volontaires via Internet, les sources alimentaires de polyphénols sont principalement le café (36,9 %), le thé — vert ou noir — (33,6 %), le chocolat pour son cacao (10,4 %), le vin rouge (7,2 %) et les fruits (6,7 %)18. Parmi les fruits, les polyphénols, très présents dans toutes les pommes, sont encore plus concentrés dans les pommes à cidre (riches en tanin), qui peuvent en contenir jusqu'à quatre fois plus : c'est une biodiversité qui se manifeste en richesse aussi bien qualitativement que quantitativement en polyphénols. (Wikipedia) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : From a centuries-old superfood to a "magic" ingredient : BASF's latest bioactive Inolixir™, a 100% natural extract of the chaga mushroom native to Canadian birch forests, pro-motes skin health with fast and long-lasting efficacy for tired and sensitive skin. That's the feedback from trial participants – and various in vitro and in vivo studies have confirmed its efficacy. By fortifying the skin's protection system and reducing pro-inflammatory response, it delivers visible results on fine lines and dark circles, as well as skin dullness, redness and comfort. A special extraction method is key to harnessing the mushroom’s power. Note de contenu : - Subcritical water extraction - A strengthened skin barrier with well-protected vessels - A spa experience for tired skin - A wave of radiance and comfort for sensitive skin prone to redness - Formulations - Fig. 1 : Phase diagram of water as a function of temperature and pressure - Fig. 2 : A. Dosage of polyphenol content according to extraction methods. Ref are commercial extracts. RT : room temperature. B. Anti-inflammatory activity of extracts. Dosage of IL-8 (ELISA) on keratinocytes stimulated by a pro-inflammatory cocktail (TNFα, IFNγ and PolyI:C) - Fig. 3 : Protection of the microvascular network in a 3D vascularized dermis model - Fig. 4 : Illustrative picture showing improvement in signs of fatigue (fine lines) with Inolixir™ - Fig. 5 : Chromameter measurement of skin redness : a* value. Inolixir at 1% versus placebo - Fig. 6 : Illustrative picture showing decrease in facial redness with Inolixir - Table 1 : Changes in extraction potential with the SWE process En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QfJ1EGsecXJA5nFozvsPT_J3dbX3jYuM/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33821 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Towards a sustainable solution for skin health and well-being / Harald van der Hoeven in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 12-18 Titre : Towards a sustainable solution for skin health and well-being Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Harald van der Hoeven, Auteur ; Heiko Prade, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 12-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Kératinocytes Les kératinocytes sont des cellules constituant 90 % de la couche superficielle de la peau (épiderme) et des phanères (ongles, cheveux, poils, plumes, écailles). Ils synthétisent la kératine (kératinisation), une protéine fibreuse et insoluble dans l'eau, qui assure à la peau sa propriété d'imperméabilité et de protection extérieure. L'épiderme est divisé en 4 couches basées sur la morphologie des kératinocytes (de l'intérieur vers l'extérieur) : 1. stratum germinativum (couche basale à la jonction avec le derme) 2. stratum spinosum 3. stratum granulosum 4. stratum lucidum 5. stratum corneum Les kératinocytes passent progressivement de la couche basale vers les couches supérieures par différenciation cellulaire jusqu'au stratum corneum ou ils forment une couche de cellules mortes nommées squames, par apoptose. Cette couche constitue une barrière de protection et réduit la perte d'eau de l'organisme. Les kératinocytes sont en perpétuel renouvellement. Ils mettent environ 1 mois pour aller de la couche basale au stratum corneum mais ce processus peut être accéléré en cas d'hyperprolifération de kératinocyte (psoriasis). Peau -- Soins et hygiène Sensibilité cutanée -- Mesure Tests d'efficacité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A novel cosmetic active ingredient, based on the fruit of Annona cherimola, here called Cherimoya (trade name: AnnonaSense CLR™), has shown to potently activate the skin’s endocannabinoid system. It improves skin health and well-being and po-tently reduces skin sensitivity. Note de contenu : - From CBD, via the endocannabinoid system to Annona cherimola fruit extract - In search of homeostasis, health and well-being - Efficacy studies - in vitro assays : Agonistic effect of cherimoya on CB3 - Reduction of TRPV1-induced inflammation, co-cultivation of kertinocytes - sensory neurons - Reduction of TRPV1-induced inflammation, keratinocytes - Efficacy studies - in vivo studies : Assessment of skin sensitivity - Skin discomfort - Skin appearance - Perception of skin health and well-being - Fig. 1 : Agonistic influence on CB2 - Fig. 2 : Influence on IL-1β, IL-8 and CGRP release - Fig. 3 : Influence on IL-8 release - Fig. 4 : Assessment of skin sensitivity - Fig. 5 : Assessment of skin discomfort - Fig. 6 : Assessment of skin appearance - Fig. 7 : Perception of skin health and well-being En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jt9lDWoASF3HZCoPGXyIxFJN1teY65Du/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33822 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Clay-like ingredient for a better skin and well-being / Julia Comas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Clay-like ingredient for a better skin and well-being Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Julia Comas, Auteur ; Olga Laporta, Auteur ; Elena Cañadas, Auteur ; Albert Soley, Auteur ; Raquel Delgado, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Argile Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène Régénération (biologie) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Clay-based skin care treatments are one of the oldest skin care treatments still being used today by many consumers. They are known to present multiple cosmetic benefits, as well as well-being-enhancing properties, becoming an ideal ally for people living in busy and urban environments. However, these ancient treatments are also asked to be reinvented to bring fresh air to the market. Uniclay™ biotech ingredient is a fermentation-based extract derived from a clay microorganism that mimics the effects of clays on the skin, offering a cleaner, smoother and more beautiful skin for all ethnicities and improved sense of well-being. The ingredient can also be incorporated into all types of skin care formulations, bringing renovated applications to consumers. Note de contenu : - Let's talk beauty - The magic of clays - Addressing three current beauty trends : wellness-driven beauty, inclusivity and clean beauty - P. acnes biofilm formation - Reduced inflammatory resopnse to P. acnes - Enhanced skin regeneration - Cleansing effect - Antioxidant response determined by ROS - Cellular oxygen consumption - Minimizing imperfections - Well-being and self-perception enhanced - Improved skin complexion in all ethnicities - Fig. 1 : Mechanical wound in human keratinocytes. The purple arrows show the empty area, corresponding to the injured region - Fig. 2 : Images of fibroblasts, with ROS staining shown in orange and cell nuclei in blue - Fig. 3 : Images of the red spots of a volunteer before and after the treatment. - Fig. 4 : UV photographs of a volunteer before and after 14 and 28 days of the active treatment. The presence of porphyrins can be seen as colored fluorescent spots - Fig. 5 : Image of a volunteer before and after the treatment - Fig. 6 : Changes in the vocal analysis (intensity and tone parameters) of the volunteers after different treatments (**p<0.01, ***p<0.001) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VLpTjMGghydCgsN5j4-lGOQOup-IlDS9/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33823 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Moringa oleifera Lam. leaf extract : Anti-inflammtory and antioxidant cosmetic ingredient for holistic skin and hair care / Luis Apaza in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 26-33 Titre : Moringa oleifera Lam. leaf extract : Anti-inflammtory and antioxidant cosmetic ingredient for holistic skin and hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Luis Apaza, Auteur ; Lorena Sánchez, Auteur ; Cristina Thiebaut, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antiâge Antioxydants Antiradicalaire Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Dermo-cosmétologie Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Photoprotection Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The current cosmetic market is shifting towards integrated sustainability, greener and more natural ingredients. Cosmetic ingredients must not only be efficient but also meet the criteria of environmental, social and economic sustainability. Along this line, COBIOSA, in its continuous commitment to natural and safe products, has developed CobioPure, a product based on Moringa oleifera leaf extract, with powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The Moringa tree is cultivated in Paraguay following the biodynamic agriculture norms (DEMETER certification). Moringa leaf extract holds high antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities thanks to its high content of polyphenolic compounds used for skin disorders [1]. Although Moringa has gained increasing popularity as a superfood supplement, its cosmetic properties are still not well known in the cosmetic market. The polyphenolic compounds present in CobioPure protects the skin from environmental damage and fights skin aging, reducing free radicals and inflammation caused by exposure to UV radiation. The aim of this study was to assess the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of Moringa oleifera leaf extract on skin and hair cells. Our results show that CobioPure protects both the skin and hair from environmental damage and has shown to fight skin aging, reducing the production of free radicals and inflammation caused by exposure to UV radiation. Note de contenu : - Demeter biodynamic agriculture : shaping the future - Moringa : natural photoprotective active ingredient - Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential of Moringa Oleifera leaf extract - CobioPure skin antioxidant and protectiv effect : Protocol - CobioPure anti-inflammatory effects onf TNF-α, IL-6, and NF-kB gene expression in human keratinocytes : Protocol - Results - CobioPure hair protective effects after UV induced damage : Protocol - Results - Fig. 1 : Mechanism of action of CobioPure during the inflammatory cascade after UV radiation induced damage - Fig. 2 :Bar graphs represent ROS accumulation in samples treated with Moringa oleifera leaf extract at 0.01 % after UVA irradiation for 30 minutes, on HaCaT keratinocytes, normalized to the irradiated group - Fig. 3 : Bar graphs showing LPS-induced TNFα expression results after treating hu-man keratinocytes with 0.001 % Moringa oleifera leaf extract - Fig. 4 : Bar graphs showing LPS-induced IL-6 expression results after treating hu-man keratinocytes with 0.001 % Moringa oleifera leaf extract - Fig. 5 : Bar graphs showing LPS-induced NF-kB expression results after treating hu-man keratinocytes with 0.001 % Moringa oleifera leaf extract - Fig. 6 : Bar graphs represent ROS accumulation in human hair samples after treatment with Cobiopure Gel or Placebo Gel, and UVA irradiation, compared to Control + UVA - Table 1 : Statistical analysis of the results shown in Fig. 2 - Table 2 : Statistical analysis of the results shown in Fig. 3 - Table 3 : Statistical analysis of the results shown in Fig. 4 - Table 4 : Statistical analysis of the results shown in Fig. 5 - Table 5 : Statistical analysis of the results shown in Fig. 6 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zYZWgZc-yoXxdR1q8NoLD4vBktYQqlbr/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33824 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Micellar formulation - Old wine in new skins ? / Kathrin Brandt in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 34-37 Titre : Micellar formulation - Old wine in new skins ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kathrin Brandt, Auteur ; Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 34-37 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Douceur (toucher) Evaluation Formulation (Génie chimique) Hygiène Micelles Peau -- Nettoyage Peau -- Soins et hygiène shampooings Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : An increasing number of “micellar” formulations (e.g. micellar water, micellar shampoo, even micellar laundry detergent) has recently been introduced to the market, causing quite some confusion among both consumers and surfactant experts. Since every aqueous formulation containing surfactants above their so-called Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC) contains surfactant micelles, micellar formulations have been around basically forever. However, a simple soap solution does not get the “micellar” marketing claim because it fulfills neither the performance requirements nor today’s mildness expectations. The new feature of modern “micellar” formulations is that they are now both highly effective when it comes to solubilizing (“deep cleansing”) and – especially in case of micellar water for skin cleansing – exceptionally mild and gentle. Examples of such modern – nowadays called “micellar” – formulations for both skin and hair cleansing will be given. Contrary to some expectations, there is no direct correlation between micelle size or CMC and mildness or performance; according to latest research, another crucial parameter for mildness seems to be the charge density of the surfactant micelles. All in all, the modern “micellar” formulations should not be considered as “old wine in new skins”, but rather as “new wine in old bottles”. Note de contenu : - Facts about micelles - Ingredients for mild surfactant formulations - Assessment of mildness - Correlation of mildness with micellar properties - Moder "micellar" skin and hair care - Fig. 1 : Schematic representation of A) spherical micelle and B) worm-like micelle ; C) Detection of nm-size objects (micelles!) in crystal-clear aqueous surfactant solutions by laser (pointer) light scattering - Fig. 2 : RBC assay - L/D values of typical surfactants - Fig. 3 : Structure of rhamnolipid (INCI : Glycolipids). - Table 1 : Guideline formulation "Classical shampoo" from the "pre-micellar" era - Table 2 : Guideline formulation "Purifying micellar shampoo" with high cleansing efficacy and low level of surfactants - Table 3 : Guideline formulation "Pure micellar water", pH 6.0, in vitro mildness test result (RBC test) : basically non irritant - Table 4 : Guideline formulation "Micellar water for facial cleansing", pH 5.0, in vitro mild-ness test result (RBC test) : basically non irritant En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aBz0LlTjWL5xjFYy_8Qfvs8ZO9okgV9y/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33825 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Sustainable solutions for hair care / Michael Franzke in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 38-44 Titre : Sustainable solutions for hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Michael Franzke, Auteur ; Bert Kroon, Auteur ; Tuttu Nuutinen, Auteur ; Eric-Jan de Feij, Auteur ; Lidia Kulcsar, Auteur ; Coralie Alonso, Auteur ; David Streuli, Auteur ; Anthony Luschen, Auteur ; Penny Antonopoulos, Auteur ; Xin Qu, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 38-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Conditionneurs (cosmétique) Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Mousse (chimie) Produits capillaires Produits coiffants Rhéologie shampooings Surfactants Viscosité Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Sustainability is an area which is permanently growing in importance. Therefore, there is also a growing demand for environmentally conscious cosmetic products. The current article summarizes a series of solutions for hair care that fit this market need applying different concepts. A snapshot of varying hair care formulation concepts – shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling – with different strategies to help improve sustainability profiles for the different product types is presented. Examples include cellulose derivatives that help to reduce raw material use like surfactants in shampoos or conditioners while maintaining the original level of performance. Guar derivatives improve deposition of natural oil or anti dandruff actives on hair and scalp thus optimizing the benefits of such ingredients. Biodegradable guars can also be used in styling products creating high performing systems, with long-lasting hold. Note de contenu : - SUSTAINABLE APPROACHES FOR SHAMPOO : Reducing surfactant by adding methylhydroxypropylcellulose - Guars, nature-derived materials for optimized deposition - IMPROVING SUSTAINABILITY PROFILE OF RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS : Hair mousse - Table 1 : Sulfate-free surfactant formula w HPMC for foam study - Table 2 : Effect of HPMC in reducing Interleukin1-alpha release in sulfate-free formula - Table 3 : Mousse Formulations - Fig. 1 : Foam profile sulfate-free surfactant mix with HPMC vs commercial sulfate-based shampoo - Fig. 2 : Diluted commercial AD w. Guar large flocs formed and AD prototype with Guar Nhance BF 13 small flocs formed - Fig. 3 : Viscosity profile of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Using Serrated parallel plates (50 mm), 25 deg C, Controlled shear stress, Bohlin Rheometer. All Conditioners were made using identical process, same ageing time - Fig. 4 : Wet and dry sensory assessment of conditioner w. and w/o HMHEC in comparison to conditioner with higher FA/Surfactant ratio. Test Mannequin heads with damaged hair. - Fig. 5 : High humidity curl retention of aqueous Styleze ES-1 solutions in comparison to Aqueous PQ-4 solutions. Cond: 90% rel. Hum./25°C - Fig. 6 : Styleze™ ES-1 delivers long term (48-hour) styling benefits vs. PQ-4 mousse - Fig. 7 : Tack measurement of Styleze™ ES-1 and PQ-4 with texture analyzer - Formulation 1 : Base formulation conditioner En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15GWzyaeN4T0a7gkqNszcvryvubAdcrLK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33826 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

New technologies for specific antiperspirant actions / Jessica Welzel in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 46-51 Titre : New technologies for specific antiperspirant actions Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jessica Welzel, Auteur ; Sabine Grüdl, Auteur ; Bernhard Banowski, Auteur ; Andrea Sättler, Auteur ; Thomas Förster, Auteur ; Thomas Welss, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 46-51 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Aisselles -- Soins et hygiène Antiperspirants Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Sels d'aluminium -- Produits de remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cosmetics support a well-balanced quality of life of consumers by improving their outer appearance or repressing unpleasant attributes such as inordinate sweating or smelling. Especially sweating may be socially stigmatizing when becoming excessive. However, the biological mechanisms behind perspiration are not completely understood. The only effective cosmetic antiperspirant technology to reduce sweating is based on the use of aluminum salts, which lately became publicly misperceived. Henkel Beauty Care developed a sophisticated in vitro model of the human eccrine sweat gland to screen for and identify new antiperspirant technologies substituting these aluminum salts. This proprietary cell model combines all the relevant sweat gland cells in a three-dimensional (3D) environment. In verification tests of the cell model the in vitro simulation of both, stimulation of the sweating process and its inhibition, were shown. Further, this 3D model was used for screening of sweat-regulating actives. Thereby, we focused on the change of certain ion-levels within the cells upon treatment with potential inhibitors. Positively screened potential antiperspirant substances were subsequently tested in vivo revealing a striking in vitro / in vivo correlation. A new biologically potent antiperspirant technology is on its way to the consumer successfully replacing the common aluminum salts. Note de contenu : - 3D in vitro cell model of the human eccrine sweat gland - The in vitro screening - In vivo validation of in vitro observation - In vitro/in vivo correlation - Fig. 1 : Eccrine sweat gland cells in a suspension aggregate at the tip of the medium droplet in a Hanging Drop Plate forming the 3D eccrine sweat gland model - Fig. 2 : 2D cell culture (a) and 3D eccrine sweat gland model (b) in which the cells are loaded with an ion-sensitive fluorescence dye to measure the changes of intracellular ion contents. Bar represents 100 μm - Fig. 3 : Concentration dependent reduction of the intracellular sodium content after treatment of eccrine sweat gland cells with substance 1. ***: significantly different from 0% with p < 0.0001 (one-way ANOVA with Tukey’s post-hoc multiple comparison test). Data are mean ± SD of two independent experiments performed in sextuplet - Fig. 4 : Photograph of a volunteer’s back in a sweat reduction study during occlusion phase - Fig. 5 : Sweat reducing effect of test substance 1 determined on the back of volun-teers. Increasing concentrations of test substance 1 enhanced the sweat reducing potential up to the efficiency reached with conventionally used Aluminium chloro-hydrate (ACH). Data are mean of 15-20 volunteers - Fig. 6 : Observed correlation between the intracellular sodium content determined in substance 1-treated eccrine sweat gland cells in vitro and the actual sweat reducing efficiency of substance 1 achieved on the back of volunteers in vivo En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uEVDnRC-MX-BGCnG11l8AZ0n5T6CuKaW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33827 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Effective cleaning through a second skin – Why proteins improve cleaning / Matthias Reihmann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 52-58 Titre : Effective cleaning through a second skin – Why proteins improve cleaning Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Matthias Reihmann, Auteur ; Berthold Köhler, Auteur ; Nina Rittereiser, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 52-58 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique) Hydrophilie Produits nettoyants Protéines Surfaces -- Nettoyage Vitres -- Nettoyage Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : An innovative, easy-to-clean concept with hydrophilic protective layers formed by functional collagen peptides on cleaned sur-faces, has been successfully employed in professional vehicle cleaning applications. This has allowed for the reformulation of cleaners to less alkaline and more environmentally friendly conditions. In addition to improved cleaning results, extended cleaning cycles and reduced water consumption are well documented benefits. Meanwhile these protein protection layers are also finding use in hard-surface cleaners. Note de contenu : - Cleaning through a second skin – The role of proteins in a formulation - Example of the protein-induced easy-to-clean effect on a glass surface - Tracking the protein layer formation in real-time - Fig. 1 : Scheme of the protective hydrophilic protein layer formation during cleaning of a train surface - Fig. 2 : Glass cleaner with NOVOTEC® CB800 induced easy-to-clean effect Step 1: Glass plate treated with different permanent markers before rinsing with pure water; Step 2: Glass plate after rinsing with 40 °C warm water - Fig. 3 : Ink removal from NOVOTEC® CB800 covered gold surface visualized by QCM-D real-time measurements. Similar results were achieved on a glass-sputtered gold sensor - Fig. 4 : A tile pre-washed with concentrated cleaner with/without NOVOTEC®CB800 and cleaned again with the respective cleaners shows only a minor improvement due to protein protection of the first cleaning - Fig. 5 : A tile pre-washed with 1:1 diluted cleaner with/without NOVOTEC®CB800 and cleaned again with the respective cleaners shows a major improvement due to protein protection of the first cleaning - Fig. 6 : A tile pre-washed with 1:5 diluted cleaner with/without NOVOTEC®CB800 and cleaned again with the respective cleaners shows only an improvement due to protein protection of the first cleaning but the final cleaning result is not satisfying - Table 1 : Glass cleaner with NOVOTEC® CB800 induced easy-to-clean effect - Table 2 : All-Purpose cleaning formulation with NOVOTEC® CB800 induced easy-to-clean effect En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12HzultBBhkt6qFdw77wzzxWOwbvqhtMv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33828 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible

Determination of CMCs – Results from CESIO/TEGEWA Working Groups / Joachim Venzmer in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 3 (03/2020) . - p. 60-65 Titre : Determination of CMCs – Results from CESIO/TEGEWA Working Groups Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Joachim Venzmer, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 60-65 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Concentration micellaire critique Surfactants Tension superficielle Index. décimale : 668.1 Agents tensioactifs : savons, détergents Résumé : Because of the trend towards “micellar” formulations, surfactant manufacturers often get requests to prove the existence of micelles and/or provide values for Critical Micelle Concentrations (CMC). Therefore, the CESIO Working Group “Test Methods of Surfactants” and the TEGEWA Working Group "Surface Active Substances" have conducted round robin tests using “technical” surfactants, i.e. surfactants having alkyl chain length distributions : A) fatty alcohol ethoxylates with 9EO and different alkyl chain lengths (C12-C18) and B) two alkylamidopropyl betaines (coco vs. C12). The methods employed were the standard procedures established in industry, e.g. Wilhelmy Plate, du Noüy Ring or Pendant Drop. Two aspects have been the focus of this work : A) the effect of alkyl chain length variations on the CMC values, and B) the influence of the experimental procedures on the results of the surface tension measurements. There is indeed a significant influence of the experimental procedure on the surface tension values – especially for surfactants with broad alkyl chain distribution. Since these differences are mostly below CMC, the values of the CMCs itself are somewhat consistent. However, giving more “precise” values than one significant digit does not make much sense. But this should be sufficient, since in practical applications one is always well above CMC. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : Surface tension of C12/14E9 as a function of concentra-tion; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „reverse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data D, E and L have been determinded in the same laboratory) - Fig. 2 : Surface tension of C12-18E9 as a function of concentra-tion; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „reverse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data D, E and L have been determinded in the same laboratory) - Fig. 3 : Surface tension of C10E9 as a function of concentration; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „re-verse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data D, E and L have been determinded in the same laboratory) - Fig. 4 : Surface tension of C18E9 as a function of concentration; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „re-verse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data D, E and L have been determinded in the same laboratory) - Fig. 5 : Surface tension of LAPB (brown) and CAPB (blue) as a func-tion of concentration using the Pendant Drop Method; (Different shapes are a code for the different participating laboratories) - Fig. 6 : Surface tension of LAPB as a function of concentration; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „reverse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data E, L and N have been determinded in the same laboratory) - Fig. 7 : Surface tension of CAPB as a function of concentration; filled symbols in blue: Automated CMC by stepwise addition of surfactant stock solution to water; filled symbols in brown: Pendant Drop method of individually prepared surfactant solutions; open symbols: Automated „reverse“ CMC. (Different shapes are a code for the different participants, e.g. data E, L and N have been determinded in the same laboratory) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VV58Fyw_nkcAQQ29o1Z4x2ObA6dNwzTv/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33829 [article]

Réservation

Réserver ce document

Exemplaires (1)

Code-barres	Cote	Support	Localisation	Section	Disponibilité
21589	-	Périodique	Bibliothèque principale	Documentaires	Disponible