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Natural ingredients for skin care applications sourced from italian agricultural products in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 2-7 Titre : Natural ingredients for skin care applications sourced from italian agricultural products Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anti-inflammatoires Antioxydants Biomolécules actives Ingrédients cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Produits naturels Régénération (biologie) Ressources agricoles Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The benefits of the Mediterranean diet are well known. Fruit and vegetables, in particular, contribute to these benefits thank to their rich composition in phytonutrients, with anti-oxidant and nourishing properties. Because skin is a part of our body, it makes sense that the general benefits of a healthy diet would translate into maintaining a healthy and good looking skin. In order to formulate topical products delivering the same benefits of a healthy diet, we selected fruits derived from Italian agriculture known to be extremely rich in molecules with anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and repairing properties. Some of the molecules we obtained originated from food by-products, in order to maximize a sustainable approach and bringing added value to raw materials that otherwise would be wasted or used into less valuable end products. One of the challenge when sourcing natural ingredients for cosmetic applications is the capacity to transform them in actives with proven efficacy. This effort implies a knowledge in how to concentrate and stabilize the ingredient as well as testing it to prove that it can indeed deliver the expected performance when targeting a specific cosmetic concern. We have created a full line of active ingredients sourced from Italian agricultural products. We called this approach Tasty Cosmetology and the resulting line of products ITALINE. We were able to identify the best plant source based on its known scientific properties and active ingredients composition and by further processing it we were able to create a unique proposal of actives with high level of efficacy, stability and safety. All our ITALINE actives were characterized by analytical chemistry for their molecular composition and fully tudied for their biological activity in the skin by in vitro, ex vivo and clinical testing. Furthermore their safety was proven clinically and their stability was followed over time in different experimental conditions. Note de contenu : - BLUEBERRY SKIN CONCENTRATE : INCI : Vaccinium Corinbosum (Blueberry) fruit extract ; trade name : Italine B - ANNURCA APPLE CONCENTRATE : INCI : Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract ; trade name : Italine A - ITALIAN RED GRAPES - SKIN MACERATE UND COLD-PRESSED COFFEE SEED OIL : INCI : Vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract & coffea arabica (coffee) seed oil ; trade name : Italine G - Fig. 1 Protection protein carbonylation - Fig. 2 : Surface percentage positive to NRF-2 immunostaining in the living epidermis - Fig. 3 : Improvemen tof skin radiance measured as the percentage increase of the gloss parameter - Fig. 4 : Amelioration of skin tone measured as the percentage increase of the ITA parameter - Fig. 5 : Neutralization of ROS in cell membrane - Fig. 6 : Comet assay on keratinocytes (HaCat) - Fig. 7 : Dark circles visibility reduction - Fig. 8 : Collage expression stimulation - Fig. 9 : Hyaluronic acid synthase stimulation - Fig. 10 : Treatment for 56 days with a product containing the actives at 2% visibly improves orange peel appearance - Fig. 11 : Skin compactness improvement En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCFCDuKZoX60Q8GAwjc4jm03EhE_B6lF/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32731 [article]

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Efficacy of an antireactive red marine algae extract to protect against the exposome / Carole Vialleix in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 8-12 Titre : Efficacy of an antireactive red marine algae extract to protect against the exposome Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Carole Vialleix, Auteur ; Thibaut Michel, Auteur ; Jean-Paul Cadoret, Auteur ; A. Sevestre, Auteur ; J. Mercier, Auteur ; Justine Demangeon, Auteur ; Jean-Yves Berthon, Auteur ; Edith Filaire, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 8-12 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Algues marines Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Exposome L'exposome est un concept correspondant à la totalité des expositions à des facteurs environnementaux (c'est-à-dire non génétiques) que subit un organisme humain de sa conception à sa fin de vie en passant par le développement in utero, complétant l'effet du génome. Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie) Peau -- Soins et hygiène Polysaccharides Les polysaccharides (parfois appelés glycanes, polyosides, polyholosides ou glucides complexes) sont des polymères constitués de plusieurs oses liés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques. Les polyosides les plus répandus du règne végétal sont la cellulose et l’amidon, tous deux polymères du glucose. De nombreux exopolysaccharides (métabolites excrétés par des microbes, champignons, vers (mucus) du ver de terre) jouent un rôle majeur - à échelle moléculaire - dans la formation, qualité et conservation des sols, de l'humus, des agrégats formant les sols et de divers composés "argile-exopolysaccharide" et composites "organo-minéraux"(ex : xanthane, dextrane, le rhamsane, succinoglycanes...). De nombreux polyosides sont utilisés comme des additifs alimentaires sous forme de fibre (inuline) ou de gomme naturelle. Ce sont des polymères formés d'un certain nombre d'oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : -[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1). On distingue deux catégories de polysaccharides : Les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes ; les hétéropolysaccharides (ou hétéroglycanes) formés de différents monosaccharides : hémicelluloses. Les constituants participant à la construction des polysaccharides peuvent être très divers : hexoses, pentoses, anhydrohexoses, éthers d'oses et esters sulfuriques. Selon l'architecture de leur chaîne, les polysaccharides peuvent être : linéaires : cellulose ; ramifiés : gomme arabique, amylopectine, dextrane, hémicellulose et mixtes : amidon. Sensibilité cutanée Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The research objective : Reactive skin induces cutaneous manifestations such as stinging, redness, dryness, and burning sensation in connection with the exposome. Its pathogenesis is mainly related to the dysfunction of neurosensory and also immune activity. Experimental methods : We evaluated the effect of polysaccharides extracted from Halymenia durvillei (Hd) on reactive skin, using an ex vivo model on inflammation and neurosensory discomfort. An in vivo study was also conducted on 25 selected volunteers with reactive skin. Clinical grading of facial skin including dryness, roughness, and erythema was assessed (SS-scale). Subject self-assessment questionnaires, photography, erythrosis were also included. Main observations : Hd extract was able to reduce the expression of TRPV-1 and NK1 -R as well as to decrease TNF-a., and VEGF suggesting that this active extract may provide protection for sensitive and reactive skin from daily environmental agressions, named exposome. The in vivo study shows that Hd extract calms feelings of discomfort and redness, and controls the microvascularization. Volunteer's questionnaire revealed self-perceived benefits consistent with expert visual grading. Conclusion : we show the efficacy of a new antireactive red marine algae rich in polysaccharides extract to protect the skin against the exposome. It will be interesting to evaluate whether this Hd extract can modulate skin microbiota, the relationship between skin microbiota and reactive skin having been recently reported. Note de contenu : - Fig. 1 : TNF-α secretion after 6 days of Hd extract treatment (expressed in pg.ml-1) - Fig. 2 : Percentage of area occupied by the substance P receptor in the epidermis at Day 6. **P<0.01 vs control - Fig. 3 : Effect of Hd extract on erythrosis - Fig. 4 : Reduction of redness induced by 28 days of HD extract application - Table 1 : Evolution of the skin irritability, sensitivity heating, pain, flushes, redness, and hydration state from D0 to D28 using the SS-10 scale. * p<0.05, *** p<0.001 vs DO En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/12-NOvy6q9l720aVWCmARyzE57fXPa2th/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32732 [article]

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The essence of white flowers for multifunctional eye care / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 14-18 Titre : The essence of white flowers for multifunctional eye care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hagen Döring, Auteur ; Miguel Perez-Aso, Auteur ; Blanca Martinez-Teipel, Auteur ; Jordi Bosch, Auteur ; Angela Roca, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 14-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Anticernes Contour des yeux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Visage -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Our laboratory has developed an active, derived from Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn) and Jasminum sambac (Arabian jasmine), which act in conjunction to create a multi-functional effect on the eye contour. It has been successfully demonstrated that the active is able to decrease vascular permeability to avoid the accumulation of components that darken the skin tone. In addition it improves blood flow, increases bilirubin degradation and thus has a lightening effect on dark circles. In vivo studies confirm the improvement of blood circulation in the eye contour and a reduction of dark circles with excellent results in just 14 days. In the same period, the active also has a lifting effect on the upper eyelid and smoothes wrinkles in the crow-feet area. The natural active Eye'fectiveTM derived from two white flowers can strongly be recommended as an active ingredient with excellent activity that improves the appearance of the eye contour area. The ingredient can be used in China rand is compliant with natural cosmetics labels. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Why dark circles ? (Microcirculation - Accumulation of melanin - Glycation) - Why droopy eyelids ? - WHITE FLOWERS FOR A RADIANT LOOK - PROOF OF CONCEPT : Effect on vascular conditions of the eye contour (Vascular permeability - Bilirubin degradation) - Decrease of melamin in the eye contour - Improvement of collagen in the skin (Collagen synthesis - Inhibition of the accumulation of glycation products) - PROOF OF ACTIVITY : Reduction of dark circles - Eyelid lifting effect - Complementary anti-wrinkle activity En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q2HCQXSGhnx9AgHcQBiHcrDhyVWnzlO7/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32733 [article]

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An alternative for the use of silicones as a hair heat protector / Flàvio Bueno de Camargo in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 20-25 Titre : An alternative for the use of silicones as a hair heat protector Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Flàvio Bueno de Camargo, Auteur ; Marcos Roberto Rossan, Auteur ; Anna Carolina Neves de Souza, Auteur ; Gessica Fernanda Duarte de Oliveira, Auteur ; Cleverson Rogério Princival, Auteur ; Wagner Magalhàes, Auteur ; Raissa Oblitas, Auteur ; Maria Cecilia Salvadori, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- analyse Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cheveux -- Teneur en eau Linoléate d'éhyle Microscopie à force atomique Microscopie électronique à balayage Oléate d'éthyle Polysaccharides Les polysaccharides (parfois appelés glycanes, polyosides, polyholosides ou glucides complexes) sont des polymères constitués de plusieurs oses liés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques. Les polyosides les plus répandus du règne végétal sont la cellulose et l’amidon, tous deux polymères du glucose. De nombreux exopolysaccharides (métabolites excrétés par des microbes, champignons, vers (mucus) du ver de terre) jouent un rôle majeur - à échelle moléculaire - dans la formation, qualité et conservation des sols, de l'humus, des agrégats formant les sols et de divers composés "argile-exopolysaccharide" et composites "organo-minéraux"(ex : xanthane, dextrane, le rhamsane, succinoglycanes...). De nombreux polyosides sont utilisés comme des additifs alimentaires sous forme de fibre (inuline) ou de gomme naturelle. Ce sont des polymères formés d'un certain nombre d'oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : -[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1). On distingue deux catégories de polysaccharides : Les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes ; les hétéropolysaccharides (ou hétéroglycanes) formés de différents monosaccharides : hémicelluloses. Les constituants participant à la construction des polysaccharides peuvent être très divers : hexoses, pentoses, anhydrohexoses, éthers d'oses et esters sulfuriques. Selon l'architecture de leur chaîne, les polysaccharides peuvent être : linéaires : cellulose ; ramifiés : gomme arabique, amylopectine, dextrane, hémicellulose et mixtes : amidon. Protection thermique Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The application of heat in hair styling is a common practice in use today. Thermal styling appliances can reach until 232°C, thereby, the heat protection is essential for any hair care routine to avoid alteration in the cuticle structure, decomposition of keratin, water loss and hair breakage. This study aimed to develop a thermal protective ingredient based on polysaccharides of Salvia hispanica and trehalose, associated with ethyl esters of sunflower and crambe oils that can be used as a silicone alternative with proven efficacy and safety : ThermoShield N. To evaluate the efficacy, after flat iron exposure, four groups of hair tresses (Control, Placebo, ThermoShield N and Benchmark) were investigated using thermal images, moisture analyzer, AFM and SEM. The results showed that the ThermoShield N provided a significantly reduction in the hair temperature and an increase in hair water content, compared to Placebo and Benchmark. The AFM and SEM micrographs of the fibers treated with ThermoShield N did not shbw the same signs of damages observed in the Control group. In the experimental conditions the results showed that ThermoShield N is able to trap water inside the fibers and creating a thermal barrier, that protects hair from overheating and consequently, from thermal damage. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Hair sample preparation - Hair temperature - Evaluation of the hair water content (hydration) - Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) - Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) - Fiber orientation (straight effect) - RESULTS : Hair temperature - Evaluation of the hair water content (hydration) - Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) - Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) - Fiber orientation (straight effect) En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GWQOokf1Q1I11xkSfdlJrRMYKm-ih3bN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32734 [article]

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What is the biodegradability of fragrances in laundry, care and cleaning products ? / Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 26-28 Titre : What is the biodegradability of fragrances in laundry, care and cleaning products ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anneliese Wilsch-Irrgang, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 26-28 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biodégradation Cosmétiques Détergents Formulation (Génie chimique) Parfums Produits nettoyants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Consumers expect laundry, care and cleaning products (LCC products) to be safe and effective. Here, the sensory evalua¬tion of a product by the customer is of great importance, be¬cause the fragrance very often not only influences the general acceptante of the product, but also has a significant bearing on its perceived performance in washing and cleaning or in laundry care. That is why LCC products contain perfume, be¬cause perfumes play a significant role in commercial success. Note de contenu : - Fragrance components in LCC products - Product safety and usage bans - Biodegradability - Fig. 1 : Product design and purchasing decision for LCC products - Table 1 : Composition and degradability of a model formulation for a detergent perfume En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MBMhLYvjbcryXjZ4X0ut61_lrAA5FidO/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32735 [article]

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How to evaluate emotional benefit of a warming cosmetic active ? / Céline Carrasco-Douroux in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019)  

[article]  inSOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 6 (06/2019) . - p. 30-35 Titre : How to evaluate emotional benefit of a warming cosmetic active ? Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Céline Carrasco-Douroux, Auteur ; Patrice Bellon, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 30-35 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Ingrédients cosmétiques Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The measure of the emotions is now a well implemented practice in fragrance domain. Thus, the study of emotional benefits obtained by cosmetics product becomes a major issue to remain competitive. The methodology is based on the emotional response induced by a warming active in a cosmetic formula. In order to measure the emotion induced by a sensorial stimulus, we observed the physiological and the cognitive component of the emotion, completed by a psychological evaluation thanks to a reference questionnaire. In view of the results, it can be concluded that the changes in heart rate generated by the warming cosmetic active compared to the placebo have a significant stimulating effect on the panelists. With regard to the self-evaluation questionnaire, it can be observed that the application of the warming active ingredient gives a feeling of pleasure and a good appreciation. All psychophysiological parameters tend towards stimulation of the cerebral cortex, the heart rate parameter is significantly stimulating and the arousal dimension increases significantly. This last point is therefore correlated with an activation of the body by the sympathetic nervous system. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : Market analysis - Can we evaluate emotions ? - METHODOLOGIES : Sensory evaluation protocol - Cognitive evaluation - Physiological evaluation - Fig. 1 : A benefit consumers are ready to pay for (Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer Study, 2017, 19 countries, n = 2000-2500 per country) - Fig. 2 : A sensation perceived as an efficacy marker (Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer Study, 2017, 19 countries, n = 200-2500 per country - Fig. 3 : Intense warming, but not heat ! (Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer Study, 2017, 19 countries, n = 200-2500 per country - Fig. 4 : Details of psychophysiological parameters used in the protocol, based on the contemporary definition of the emotional evaluation sing three different components : psychological, physiological and behavioral - Fig. 5 : Difference betweenemotion and mood - Fig. 6 : The emotional tool box : the wheel of psychophysiological parameters using for the evaluation of emotion - Fig. 7a : Scale of the evaluation of the sensation of the heating effect - Fig. 7b : Protocol of the sensory evaluation on skin - Fig; 8 : Self-assessment Manikin (SAM) for the psychological evaluation (a reference questionnaire) - Fig. 9 : Parameters used to measure the emotion induced by a sensorial stimulus - Fig. 10 : The protocol of the evaluation of the emotion provided by a warming active, takes about 37 min - Fig. 11 : The results of the physiological parameters show a significant emotional stimulating effect of the heartbeat - Fig. 12 : The results of the physiological parameters show a significant emotional stimulating effect of the heartbeat, compared to other physiological parameters that show only a tendency to stimulation - Fig. 13 : 2D emotional graph - Fig. 14 : Results on physiological & cognitive components - Graph 1 : Warming sensations measured between two emulsions, one including a warming active versus another one without warming active, called placebo, during 20 min - Graph 2 : Percentage of the thermal sensation felt by the panel, at 30 sec and 2, 5, 10, 15 & 20 min En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lMQiXJ3hGjvTouJKtw3KpXVDl2FLUWTW/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32736 [article]

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