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Effective preservation with multifunctional naturals / Fernando Ibarra in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008)
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Titre : Effective preservation with multifunctional naturals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Fernando Ibarra, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 86-88 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux -- Propriétés fonctionnelles
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Alternative preservation is becoming more and more popular, and many products that claim to be “preservative free” or “free of synthetic preservatives”, “paraben free” etc are on the market. Since the consumer perception of preservatives is not very positive, many chose their preferred cosmetic products according to the "free of…" claims. There have been many debates in the industry, criticising that development and blaming cosmetic manufacturers or raw material suppliers for this trend. Indeed many manufacturers proactively use the absence of traditional preservatives to position their products. The basic core of this conflict is that, on one hand, there are good reasons to do without some (but not all) traditional preservatives because of toxicological matters. On the other hand, there is an undisputable need for preservation in nearly all cosmetic products. The fact that an increasing number of products is nowadays preserved with alternative ingredients shows that the concepts work effectively – since the same microbiological test methods are used for the assessment of product safety. A survey from a German governmental testing institute revealed that in 400 cosmetic products that were sampled randomly, there were no differences in microbiological quality between those with traditional and alternative preservation. So, in the end there are supporters of both, traditional preservatives and alternative systems. The advantages and disadvantages of most traditional preservatives have been discussed extensively and will not be focused on in the following overview of alternative preservation systems. There have also been a number of introductions and updates on alternative or natural preservation systems. As the differences between both terms are not always entirely clear and furthermore there are many products in the market, in which traditional preservatives are blended with alternative antimicrobial ingredients, there is still need for a clarification on the definitions of traditional, alternative and natural systems for preservation. The main reason for the discrimination is not given by scientists or by efficacy data, but by the European Cosmetics Directive and other similar laws in other parts of the world. Whenever preservatives are collected in a positive list as in Europe (Annex VI of the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC), the definition of a preservative is fixed. So the possibility to use marketing claims like “preservative free” is a simple consequence of the governing legal environment as soon as there is no substance from Annex VI in the end product. There are some established ways of alternative preservation that are very effective and not at all debated, like the use of ethanol. Ethanol falls exactly in the same category as most ingredients for alternative preservation and is used extensively for alternative preservation concepts. Alternative preservation systems normally have well documented cosmetic functions like hydrating, refatting, perfuming or others. These cosmetic functions (defined as “primary function” of the respective ingredient) are a crucial requirement for the legally correct use of such antimicrobial raw materials. One of the highlights of the continuing controversy about preservatives were scientific publications that were intended to show a correlation between breast cancer and the use of parabens in deodorants. There was never proof of a causal connection, but only findings that a significant number of samples of cancer tissue contained parabens. Certainly, if tested, there would be a similarly significant amount of healthy tissue containing parabens – or other compounds present in cosmetic products. So there is certainly no reason to panic when such weak scientific conclusions reach the public. However, there are also cases where “experts” trivialise the fears of the public and by doing so act in quite the same way (i.e. not scientifically) as the mass media do – only in the opposite direction. This is for instance the case when the use of formaldehyde releasers is discussed and their supporters lecture about differences between risk and hazard and the safety at the allowed use levels. Why is it so hard to accept that consumers who buy products to promote their health and wellness are not happy about carcinogens on their skin – in whatever concentration ? Many ingredient suppliers have noticed that there are still many means to avoid ingredients with such [marketing] disadvantages and develop new and innovative systems for alternative preservation. Note de contenu : - Alternative preservation approach
- Preserving natural cosmeticsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u5KNX1tSbRxOjBXBvWCS8YizkF6JG1Lm/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=22100
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 1, N° 1 (09/2008) . - p. 86-88[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16530 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effets synergiques des extraits naturels peu transformés / Rachida Nachat-Kappes in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 51 (05-06/2018)
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Titre : Effets synergiques des extraits naturels peu transformés Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 46-49 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits naturels
SynergieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ce qui est bon pour le corps est forcément bon pour la peau. C'est pour cette raison que la cosmétique s'inspire en permanence de la nutrition ; et le développement de nombreux actifs naturels confirme cette tendance. extraits de superaliments, ingrédients actifs issus de probiotiques ou encore d'algues ou microalgues comestibles, huiles végétales riches en oméga 3, connaissent, en effet, un énorme succès auprès des industriels de la cosmétique et des consommateurs. Note de contenu : - L'ultra-transformation des aliments
- Et si nous étions en train de faire les mêmes erreurs avec nos ingrédients cosmétiques
- Des antioxydants qui deviennent pro-oxydants
- Quel est vraiment l'impact de cette transformation sur notre peau
- La synergie des molécules actives
- Un extrait de raisin plus efficace que le resvératrol purifiéEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FPWddlgQhwRcbGbw80i0UL25r-rr_TZV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30816
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° 51 (05-06/2018) . - p. 46-49[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20037 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Efficacy of natural ((-) isomer) alpha bisabolol and its sustainable supply chain versus synthetics chemicals / Gabriele Rocha in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
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Titre : Efficacy of natural ((-) isomer) alpha bisabolol and its sustainable supply chain versus synthetics chemicals Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gabriele Rocha, Auteur ; Flávia F. J. Batistela, Auteur ; Rafaela Tomazini Candido, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 36-39 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Développement durable
Etudes comparatives
Gestion de l'approvisionnement
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits naturels
Produits synthétiques
StéréoisomèresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to compare the effectiveness of both active versions : nature ((-) isomer) and synthetic (racemic mixture (±)) a-bisabolol in the treatment of skin and scalp. Natural version has advantages like being farnesol free, to have the production chain completely transparent and sustainable, in addition of the action potential guaranteed by the presence of the biologically active, that is, the negative isomer (-) in 100% of the composition. Synthetic products, although it is claimed to be similar to natural in the market, have a number of inherent manufacturing problems, such as production being dependent on environmentally and humanly harmful chemicals, difficulty in purification (i.e. product without trace of these compounds), and low efficacy. Furthermore, it is known that micro-organism-dependent technologies are naturally low in yield, requiring high consumption of chemical and biological reagents, which is in disagreement with modern industrial production techniques, in terms of resource savings and natural goods.
On the other hand, the active a-bisabolol: natural ((-) - a-bisabolol) from Candela tree has been used by the market for decades, with no correlated effects on its use, dissimilar to the synthetic or similar products, with less time in the market, with unknown long-term adverse effects.Note de contenu : - Fig. 1. Stereoisomers of α-bisabolol
- Fig. 2. The sustainable circle production of Citroleo productsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ds5x-pCqUvl6WiBBf9DtuS_dvIStXhdu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30354
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 36-39[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19758 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Emulium illustro, l'émulsionnant E/H qui n'a pas fini de vous surprendre ! in ADDIACTIVE, N° 118 (2021)
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Titre : Emulium illustro, l'émulsionnant E/H qui n'a pas fini de vous surprendre ! Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 22-23 Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Depuis le lancement d'Emulium Illustro en 2018, nous n'avons cessé de repousser ses limites et d'affiner nos connaissances sur cet ingrédient et sur la formulation des émulsions E/H de manière générale. voici quelques rappels pour formuler vos émulsions E/H. Note de contenu : - La polarité des huiles, un paramètre clé
- Mettre son grain de sel
- Un jeu d'enfant
- Une sensorialité améliorée
- Figure : Analyse sensorielle de trois formules aux applications différentes : un fond de teint, un soin solaire et une crème de soinEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10WMKipzUG-od6bUfzJTq57xKkb1LScGT/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36065
in ADDIACTIVE > N° 118 (2021) . - p. 22-23[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22853 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Engineering natural active ingredients / Laurie Verzeaux in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
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Titre : Engineering natural active ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Laurie Verzeaux, Auteur ; C. Chauprade, Auteur ; C. Soulié, Auteur ; D. Laporte, Auteur ; Solen Le Davadic, Auteur ; David Boudier, Auteur ; Brigitte Closs, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 39-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Silab creates and manufactures efficacyproven active ingredients from natural raw materials. As efficacy, safety and stability are the hallmarks of each Silab development, all the inputs are controlled from the R&D to the manufacture in situ. To meet these requirements, an essential step, settled in Silab's DNA, is the mastery of nature combined with a perfect in-house control of the extraction and purification process inspired by agro-food technologies. With a 30-year experience, the company has thus developed a solid expertise in enzymatic bioengineering and owns an enzymatic toolbox to isolate novel molecular structures from natural raw materials. Silab's expertise was illustrated through the example of Recoverine®, an eco-designed active ingredient that is capable of stimulating epidermal renewal to ensure a functional and effective cutaneous barrier.
Note de contenu : - Concept inspired by the cell wall architecture
- The raw material requirements
- A special attention paid to the raw material supply
- A mastered enzymatic engineering
- A natural active ingredient with biological activities
- Fig. 1 : schematic representation of cell wall architecture. a. Role of the cadherin in human cell wall architecture. b. Role of the pectin in plant cell wall architecture
- Fig. 2 : Four checkpoints of the botanical analysis of the chestnut
- Fig. 3 : Photographs of the selected raw material, the chestnut. a. Chestnut land, in Correze, France. b. Chestnut in their bug. c. Chestnut local producer
- Fig. 4 : Schematic representation of the enzymatic hydrolysis process
- Fig. 5 : Mechanisms regulating cohesion and desquamationEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10b1VvJGaTiiGca_VAikMqyM8UByhx5pt/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31278
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018) . - p. 39-41[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20328 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Enhancing the mechanical properties of an epoxy coating with rice husk ash, a green product / Mahboobeh Azadi in JOURNAL OF COATINGS TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH, Vol. 8, N° 1 (01/2011)
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PermalinkPermalinkExtraction of juglone from Pterocarya fraxinifolia leaves for dyeing, anti-fungal finishing, and solar UV protection of wool / Izadyar Ebrahimi in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY, Vol. 131, N° 6 (12/2015)
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PermalinkFormulating with natural ingredients / Claire Summers in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
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PermalinkPermalinkFormulations for superfoods and customisable beauty / Elisabeth Dufton in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 3 (04/2019)
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PermalinkDes fucoïdanes d'une grande pureté pour des soins naturels / Amanda Mackinnon in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-Série (12/2022)
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PermalinkGlobal ingredient & formulation guide 2004 / Bernd Ziolkowsky / Thannhausen [Germany] : Verlag für chemische Industrie (2004)
PermalinkGlobal ingredient & formulation guide 2004 / Bernd Ziolkowsky / Thannhausen [Germany] : Verlag für chemische Industrie (2004)
PermalinkGlobal ingredient & formulation guide 2015 / Robert Fischer / Thannhausen [Germany] : Verlag für chemische Industrie (2015)
PermalinkPermalinkPermalinkHair care with 100% plant-based ingredients / Ophélie Bourgon in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 10 (11/2021)
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PermalinkHamburg show has South American flavour / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014)
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PermalinkHydrolysed jojoba esters offer enhanced skin care / Tiffany Oliphant in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 1 (03/2010)
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PermalinkIllustration of the impact of naturalness and eco-design on the olfactory sensoriality of cosmetic products / Charlotte Tournier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 150, N° 3 (03/2024)
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PermalinkPermalinkIntégrer la naturalité dans une démarche responsable / Doria Maïz in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 49 (01-02/2018)
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PermalinkIntroducing a new hair care superhero / Anna Aharoni in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 3 (03/2021)
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PermalinkLife cycle assessment (LCA) of naturally-sourced and petroleum-based glycols commonly used in personal care products / Rachel Pacheco in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 11 (11/2018)
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