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Clays : a new multifunctional cosmetic natural and sustainable active ingredients / Maria Célia Hibari Reimberg in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 148, N° 4 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Clays : a new multifunctional cosmetic natural and sustainable active ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Maria Célia Hibari Reimberg, Auteur ; Hanane Chajra, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 20-24 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Argile
Biomolécules actives
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Matériaux -- Propriétés barrières
Perte insensible en eau
Produits hydratants
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Nowadays, customers are lookingforcosmetic products that bring benefits for skin health besides their capacity to ameliorate the skin beauty perception. Natural clays can provide this need through their capacity to interact with the skin, while treat them in a positive way.
The physical-chemical properties and the mineral composition supplied by clays (specially to kaolinite type), bring beneficial properties for skin, such as source of essential minerals, strength to the barrier function, detox and matte effect, and improvement of rheological parameters of formulations.
Thanks to their versatility, clays can be use in formulations for skin, providing cleaning effect, action against pollution and toxins, and also new formulas for solid cosmetics, which increases stability of formulations.
Interestingly, Brazilian clays present additional benefits in a performance-based multifunctionality, improving skin conditions through maintenance of hydration, and decrease of TEWL evaluated in short-time and long-time proof-of-concept studies, after clays foundation type formulation application in healthy skin participants.
Results obtained from that provide information regarding effectiveness on skin hydration, and skin barrier function through the decrease of the trans epidermal water loss ensuring the promotion of skin healthiness.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS
- RESULTS : Improvement of skin hydration after 4 hours of product use - Improvement of skin hydration after 28 days of product use - Study of skin barrier function - Improvement of skin barrier function after 28 days of product use
- DISCUSSION : Hydration - Tran sepidermal water lossEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fU1oEPeLJ4qwk40HeqnVT3i6yHgoCJAK/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37491
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 148, N° 4 (04/2022) . - p. 20-24[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23349 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Le contrôle neuroendocrine de la lipolyse / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2011)
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Titre : Le contrôle neuroendocrine de la lipolyse Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 279-282 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Multilingue (mul) Catégories : Lipolyse Index. décimale : 574.192 Biochimie Résumé : Cerveau et tissu adipeux collaborent étroitement à la gestion des besoins énergétiques de l'organisme. Le réseau nerveux est rarement pris en compte lors de la conception d'actifs cosmétiques lipolytiques. Nous présentons ici une approche innovante qui vise à favoriser cette voie de communication. Note de contenu : - Le cerveau, un acteur essentiel dans la gestion des réserves énergétiques
- Les adipokines, messagers envoyés par le tissu adipeux pour informer le cerveau
- Une approche cosmétique pour favoriser l'effet lipilytique des terminaisons nerveuses
- Glutrapeptide, un actif lypoytique original et performant
- Glytrapeptide potentialise l'effet de la caféineEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j6dNx6YhZoV6l4xoaVkAoiJJTs2lOeph/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=12512
in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE > N° Hors série (11/2011) . - p. 279-282[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13464 - Périodique Bureau N° 129 Documentaires Disponible Dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
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Titre : Dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jean-François Nicolaÿ, Auteur ; Emmanuel Coste, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 65-68 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
RhamnoseLe Rhamnose est un désoxyose, précisément un désoxy-hexose du mannose.
Le rhamnose est un 6-désoxy-hexose du type aldose, il est constitué d’une chaîne de 5 éléments carbone ainsi que d’une fonction aldéhyde. Il peut être classifié soit comme un méthyl-pentose ou soit comme un 6-déoxy-hexose.Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) is a complex structure (Fig. 1) primarily responsible for epidermis to dermis attachment. The DEJ thus warrants cohesion and mechanical resistance of the skin. It also behaves as a selective permeability barrier controlling cell migration (immune cells, for example), and molecular exchanges (growth factors and nutrients, stress signals). Epidermal cells'interaction with the DEJ regulates their proliferation, differentiation and migraton, which is critical for epiderma renewal, barrier function setup, and wound healing.
Intrinsic and extrinsic ageing are associated with important DEJ structural modifications including flattening (loss of rete ridges), duplication and thinning (Fig. 3b). At molecular level, there is a decreased expression of the main DEJ constituent-proteins : collagens type IV, VII and XVII, laminin 5 and integrin β4. All these changes likely participate in structural and functional changes associated with ageing skin (elasticity loss, higher fragility, decreased resilience to stress, impaired wound healing). In photo-aged skin, degradation of some specific DEJ constituents such as heparan sulfate causes permeability modifications that were reported to participate in age spots formation.
Therefore a large array of cosmetic benefits can be expecteed from DEJ protection and repair. Here we describe the properties of an original bioavailable rhamnose derivative, its mechanism of action, and clinical improvements obtained after four weeks of treatement.Note de contenu : - Design of a bioavailable rhamnose derivative
- Sirhamnose efficacy : ex vivo study
- Efficacy : clinical study
- Skin hydration
- Skin structure
- Skin tone
- Age spotsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/168yWCB7m_SLGEqjRGGjaQgKOAMzr3Qf0/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24942
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 65-68[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17594 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High wavelength high blue light induced damages in human skin / Hanane Chajra in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020)
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Titre : High wavelength high blue light induced damages in human skin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hanane Chajra, Auteur ; David Garandeau, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur ; Francine Joly, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 26-33 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Dermatologie
Diodes électroluminescentes
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Lumière artificielle -- Effets physiologiques
Lumière bleue
Peau -- Histologie
Photodétérioration
Photovieillissement (dermatologie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In our hyper-connected world, we spend countless hours in front of digital screens emitting blue light (BL) with the general perception that this is safe for our skin, but the infiltration of electronic devices in our daily lives does not come without consequence. There is scarce data that touches on the effects of BL on human skin. Moreover, the data available so far has been performed on basic cellular models that are far from the complexity of human skin. This study focuses on the identification of the BL induced damage using 3D models. We found that direct BL exposure to the skin generates ROS leading to oxidative stress marker generation including protein carbonylation, nitrotyrosine, 4-hydroxynonenal. In addition, the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 which is responsible for extracellular matrix degradation during chronological aging and photoaging processes is increased. These data show that blue light emitted by electronic devices affect skin health and may be involved in premature aging. Note de contenu : - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : LED-BL induces intracellular reactive oxygen species generation in human keratinocytes - LED-BL induces oxidative damage in human skin - Oxidative stress induced by LED-BL leads to protein damage in dermis and epidermis via the release of 4-Hydroxy-2-Nonenal (4-HNE) - LED-BL is a potent inducer of skin damage through
MMP-1 overexpression and protein oxidation - LED-BL induces similar effects as UVB irradiation in skin suggesting a potential role in triggering premature aging - Skin damage induced by blue light can be easily prevented or limited by the use of cosmetic products
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Description of light-emitting diode generated blue light (LED-BL) device used in the experimental studies - Plant extract description - Monolayer keratinocyte's model exposed to blue light - Human skin explants - Histological processing of skin samples - Image acquisition and quantification
- Fig. 1 : Light emitting diode emission spectra
- Fig. 2 : Measurement of intracellular reactive oxygen species generated using H2DCF-DA fluorescent probe
- Fig. 3 : Visualization and quantification of oxidative stress markers in human skin explants exposed or not to blue lightEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18XwQGr3LZVYDLSJgU9Xs82tQNvO9PlmR/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33756
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020) . - p. 26-33[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 21511 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A japanese zen aesthetic-inspired formulation with a root-powered active ingredient / Amandine Werle in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 147, N° 3 (03/2021)
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Titre : A japanese zen aesthetic-inspired formulation with a root-powered active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Amandine Werle, Auteur ; Charlotte Stricane, Auteur ; Sandrine Delaunois, Auteur ; Benoit Mignard, Auteur ; Alexandre Lapeyre, Auteur ; Agnès Guillaumin, Auteur ; Mathilde Fréchet, Auteur ; Hanane Chajra, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides
Bryonolique, Acide
Cosmétiques
Dermo-cosmétologie
Extraits de plantes
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Peau -- analyse
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As we are living in a world full of uncertainties, where we are challenged by the coming together of environmental, health and employment crises, mental and physical stresses tend to overwhelm us. These stresses have deleterious effects on human body and especially on skin. They lead to the impairment of cell bioenergetic functions, thus contributing to premature skin aging. To recover serenity, being inspired by Japanese traditions and their Zen aesthetic principles can be a new way to address daily stresses. This paper presents the concept of Zen aesthetics that allowed us to develop several formulations under the beauty concept called “Zenspiration”. Among these formulations, the Energizing Water Cream is dedicated to re-energizing stressed cells. This paper also describes the skin biological benefits provided by an active ingredient called Rootness™ Energize, included in the Energizing Water Cream, and developed thanks to the plant milking technology. This extract from the roots of Luffa cylindrica demonstrated in vitro its ability to protect and stimulate cell bioenergetic functions while stimulating antioxidant defense systems and accelerating the renewal of key extracellular matrix components. A clinical study enrolling stressed women demonstrated that Rootness™ Energize improved skin elasticity and firmness in stressed women, leading to a reduction in wrinkles. Note de contenu : - RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Rootness™ Energize has a unique composition enriched in bryonolic acid - Rootness™ Energize preserves and boosts stress impaired mitochondrial bioenergetic cellular functions - Rootness™ Energize stimulates intrinsic antioxidant defense cellular mechanism impaired by stress - Rootness™ Energize stimulates the renewal of key extracellular matrix components to support skin homeostasis - Conclusion
- MATERIALS AND METHODS : Plant extract studied - Determination of cellular bioenergetic functions - Transcriptomic analysis (RHE model) - Proteomic analysis of skin explants - Skin staining and immunolabelling - Clinical investigation
- Formulation
- Table 1 : Content of bryonolic acid in different plant species
- Table 2 : Effects of the stimulation on the weight of dried roots obtained and the amount of bryonolic acid after the first and the second cultivation cycles
- Table 3 : Protein expression analyzed by mass spectrometry on skin explant model treated 7 days with a formula containing 1% of Rootness EnergizeEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-cLfK4VUvsZiBQKRd_w5XVwCEBsGhwuh/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35303
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22601 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Multicompartmental protection against toxic glycation late products with a "biobetter" dipeptide / Barbara Morand in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 3 (07-08-09/2013)
PermalinkRed algae extract improves barrier recovery / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)
PermalinkRenforcer les défenses antimicrobiennes de la peau / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2013)
PermalinkRoots – the underexplored source of innovative molecules highlighted thanks to PAT plant milking™ technology / Aleksander Salwinski in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
PermalinkStimulating cellular metabolism combats ageing / Mathilde Fréchet in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 2 (06/2011)
PermalinkThe dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing products / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
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