Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform / A. R. Davies in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 3 (06/2020) . - p. 259-269 Titre : Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : A. R. Davies, Auteur ; S. Amin, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 259-269 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools gras Automatisation Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Chlorure de behentrimonium Chlorure de cétrimonium Composés lamellaires Dilution Elasticité Formulation (Génie chimique) Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie Micelles Produits après-shampooings Rhéologie Surfactants Systèmes auto-assemblés Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. Note de contenu : - Objectives : The main objective of this paper was to optimize hair conditioner performance through variation of composition utilizing automated cosmetic formulation platform and advanced characterization techniques as well as develop understanding of how performance (wet combing and wet lubrication) of hair conditioner is affected by its rheology (i.e. yield stress) and controlled breakdown of the formulations (dilution). The experimental results show that yield stress greatly impacts rheology, stability and performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning. - Methods : All samples were prepared on the Chemspeed Flex Formax. A mechanical rheometer was used to measure bulk viscosity and yield stress in each sample. Dia-stron tensile tester was used to measure the lamellar gels ability to reduce combing force. Potential stronger lamellar gel network formation in the formed lamellar gels potentially leads to higher yield stress exhibited. Viscosity values were also measured after a controlled breakdown (i.e. dilution) of each sample. This was also carried out using a mechanical rheometer. - Results : Yield stress of the formulations was engineered through composition variation and was recorded in each system. The highest yield stress value is 251.179 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 50.14 Pa at a BTAC/CA ratio of 6:5. The highest yield stress value is 50.14 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 6:10, and the lowest yield stress is 19.98 Pa at a CTAC/CA ratio of 2:10. The highest overall yield stress values can also be observed in the BTAC/CA system, whereas the CTAC/CA system has relatively lower yield stress values. Dilution of each formulation caused a breakdown in viscosity of each formulation with the formulations with highest yield stress maintaining higher viscosity than the other formulations. The formulations with highest yield stress in each system which also maintains the highest dilution viscosity (6% BTAC/10% CA and 6% CTAC/10% CA) have the best effect on reducing overall combing force, that is from dry hair tress to wet hair tress and after product is rinsed off. At a BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:5, there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. At a CTAC/CA system of ratio 2:10, there is a 65% reduction in combing force and a 88% reduction in combing force in the CTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10. A ‘conditioned’ soft feel was observed on each hair tress as the sample was applied and after it was rinsed off. - Conclusions : The overall performance of the lamellar gels for hair conditioning can be engineered through optimization of the formulation microstructure and formulation microstructure breakdown on dilution. DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12609 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eCms_kWzscE6oPauostB7q8_J8tKKwBu/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35273 [article]

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