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Turning back the clock with a new active ingredient / Philippe Moussou in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 17-19 Titre : Turning back the clock with a new active ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; David Bothorel, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 17-19 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Adénosine L'adénosine est un nucléoside formé lorsque l'adénine est attachée à un noyau ribose (sous forme de ribofuranose) via une liaison ?-N9glucoside. L'adénosine est libérée par les neurones et par les cellules gliales. Elle joue un rôle important dans les processus biochimiques, telles le transfert d'énergie - comme adénosine triphosphate (ATP) et adénosine diphosphate (ADP) - ainsi que dans la transduction de signaux comme adénosine monophosphate cyclique, AMPc. Elle a également un rôle de neurotransmetteur de type hormonal. Si l'adénine est attachée à un noyau désoxyribose, sucre typique de l'ADN, on parle alors de désoxyadénosine. Antiâge Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Perceptions of age are no longer based on fine lines and wrinkles alone. Behavioural scientific research has shown that colour irredularities, dark spots and uneven skin tones are also considered to be signs of ageing. Pigmentation irregularities considered undesirable among both men and women - regardless of their age, skin age, or the region they live in. This perception is fuelled by consumers' desire to stand out and maintain youthful-looking skin and an even complexion. Generally speaking, there is a growing demand for anti-ageing solutions worldwide. But reviving the skin's luminosity should begin with lightening its imperfections as well as smoothing out its complexion. Formulating products that meet these demands can be challenging for manufacturers - as it requires careful selection of the right active ingredient. Leveraging its scientific excellence and extensive expertise in skin pigmentation mechanisms, BASF's Personal Care business has now developed an innovative pure molecule that can inhibit the release of melanin by the inhibition of tyrosinase, a pathway already broadly investigated. This new active ingredient's efficacy has been proven for both Caucasian and Asian skin types using in vitro and in vivo studies. Its safety has also been widely demonstrated under recommended use conditions, making it a highly effective alternative to benchmark depigmenting agents. Note de contenu : - The search for the right active ingredient - A new molecule to erase signs of ageing - Efficient reductions in melanin - Protection against UVB-induced skin damage - Uniform face and hand complexion En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15LLEAJc_FDLYYsZA31mfC75HMSJLQP8m/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23170 [article]

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The power of retinol without the irritation / John Gormley in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 21-22 Titre : The power of retinol without the irritation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John Gormley, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 21-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Granative Retinoid (INCI Name : Dimethyl isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is a skin care active ingredient that belongs to a class of chemical compounds termed retinoids, which are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, capable of binding to retinoid receptors. The binding of retinoid receptors can enhance gene expression, which effectively turns key cellular functions on and off. When skin cell retinoid receptors are bound with retinoids, a cascade of mechanisms that benefit skin complexion are switched on. This can result in enhanced cell proliferation, bio synthesis of extracellular proteins and glycans, and improved cellular turnover. Stimulating these age-defying processes in the skin is critical for fighting and reversing signs of ageing. Note de contenu : - Biological pathways to youthful skin - Challenges with older generation vitamin A chemistries - Advanced opportunities in vitamin A skin care - Performance - Formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pjEwen8WKB63gjTWnL3Hz_zA-lndjGQN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23171 [article]

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Journey from saving whales to sustainable chemistry / Soraya Rohde in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 27-32 Titre : Journey from saving whales to sustainable chemistry Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Soraya Rohde, Auteur ; Christine Fouts, Auteur ; Anna Pavlovic, Auteur ; Jordan Quinn, Auteur ; Chris Furman, Auteur ; Jed Riemer, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 27-32 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Développement durable Formulation (Génie chimique) Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Jojoba et constituants Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Development of ecofriendly and natural cosmetic ingredient derived from renewable resources has become of increasing importance in response to growing demands of savvy consumers. While jojoba oil and many of its derivatives have been studies for many years, jojoba's sustainability is becoming relevant in today's personal care applications and prompting further investigations. This article describes the oil and its derivatives, and their performance as sutainable ingredients. Note de contenu : - SPERM OIL AND JOJOBA OIL CHARACTERISTICS AND ORIGINS - HISTORY OF THE JOJOBA PLANT - JOJOBA PLANT AS A GREEN-CHEMISTRY PLATFORM - JOJOBA OIL - HYDROLYSED JOJOBA OIL - HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL - JOJOBA-BASED EXFOLIATING BEADS - EXPERIMENTAL METHODOLOGY, RESULTS ANS DISCUSSION : Ecofriendly and biodegradable scrubs - Jojoba oil and derivatives emulsificant studies - Skin permeation studies - Table 1 : Physical properties - Table 2 : Jojoba derivatives formulations En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ZpOwQvR6tkeRQ2woi2utFDVMyc1NfCN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23172 [article]

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Bridging the gap between tradition and sustainability / Linda B. Sedlewicz in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 37-40 Titre : Bridging the gap between tradition and sustainability Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Linda B. Sedlewicz, Auteur ; Karin Stoffels, Auteur ; Rose F. Durham, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 37-40 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Conservateurs (chimie) -- Suppression ou remplacement Cosmétiques -- Additifs Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Public discussions of many traditional preservative chemistries has made it more difficult for formulators to develop adequately preserved products. Inadequatly preserved personal care products are a public health risk that can trigger a product recall and severely damage the repitation of the manufacturer. As a result, many formulators are turning to natural and nature-identical multifunctional additives as a way to maintain the microbiological stability and safety of their products. Schülke & Mayr GmbH has a long history of combining chemistries to obtain optimized perservative systems. The boosting effect of naturally-derived Zemea Propanediol, from DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, combined with nature-identical fragrance materials and gentle synthetics, give sensiva PA 30 and sensiva PA 40 the ability to stabilise many personal care formulations to the same stringent criteria as more traditional preservative blends, bridging the gap between tradition and sustainability. Note de contenu : - MULTIFUCTIONAL ADDITIVES : Nature identical - METHODS AND TEST MATERIAL : challenge tests - Preparation of inoculum - Test material - RESULTS En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nz4PHYKwQ70TpNqllg-gNLPNdNAuHlCw/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23187 [article]

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Good hair day : wide range of innovative hair ingredient / Barbara Brockway in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 42-44 Titre : Good hair day : wide range of innovative hair ingredient Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Barbara Brockway, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 42-44 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cosmétiques Formulation (Génie chimique) Produits capillaires Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Our hair says so much about us. Actors can completely transform themselves by simply putting on a wig. Run-aways will cut their hair and dye it in order to escape detection. Research shows that the fastest way to look younger and impress friends is to re-style your hair. Celebrities and politicians know the effects of changing their appearance. "If I want to knock a story off the front page, I just change my hairstyle." said Hillary Rodham Clinton. "There's a reason why forty, fifty, and sixty don't look the way they used to, and it's not because of feminism, or better living through exercise. It's because of hair dye," said Nora Ephron, (the American film director, producer, screenwriter, and novelist). In this article, I am going to discuss some of the lastest materials available to formulators to mak ethose 'must have' products that ensure people always have 'Good Hair Days'. Note de contenu : - Hair types - Popular ingredients - Hair straightening - Styling - Traditions - Glossy shine - Specialised laboratories - Botanical extracts - Hair conditioning - Formulation 1 : Hair gloss balm serun - Smartgel M037 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11jg30nyTwcHluik-wYYOQ44p7SnBSQ5N/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23188 [article]

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Myrica fruit wax offers hair care benefits / Martina Helderman in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 46-47 Titre : Myrica fruit wax offers hair care benefits Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Helderman, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 46-47 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène Cires végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Produits du Myrica Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Natural waxes are synthesised biochemically by numerous plants and animals. Plants secrete waxes into and on the surface of their cuticles as a way to control evaporation, wettability and hydratation. As a result of climatic conditions, many plants in tropical regions also store waxes in membrane layers in the cuticula as an additional protection against evaporation of water. In many cases, waxes exude outward and form wax coatings, which can be up to several millimeters thick. The epicuticular waxes of plants are mixtures of substitutes long-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, containing alkyl esters, fatty acids, and primary and secondary alcohols. Traditionally waxes are used as consistency modifiers, co-emulsifiers, and stabilisers particularly in W/O emulsions. It is also common to thicken and harden oleogels with them, which is a typical practice in the formulation of anhydrous systems such as stick preparations, balms, and butters. Formulations with common waxes like beeswax are often perceived as heavy, dull sometimes sticky, and too occlusive. Therefore, in skin care, waxes were primarily used in cold and barrier creams and other rich W/O emulsions. But there are other waxes that do have totally different sensorial and functional properties. Besides providing stability, enhancing viscosity and consistency, they form flexible, protective layers and many of them have a superb, light, soft, and buttery skin feel. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11BCqi0iBbO8IBH0h6XnFR9MC856V8Dry/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23189 [article]

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Lipstick formulation : not as easy as you might think / Timea Sulenta in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 48-50 Titre : Lipstick formulation : not as easy as you might think Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Timea Sulenta, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 48-50 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cosmétiques -- Stabilité Ingrédients cosmétiques Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Long lasting, hydrating, matting, plumbing : these are all qualities we read about in lipstick advertisements. With new slogans and the guarantee of unique quality, producers encourage us to buy new products. Oil/wax systems sound simple and uncomplicated, but what exactly does that mean for the development chemist ? The first step in formulation development is to define the qualities of the finished product and the basic features of the formulation, such as : price point, legislation, marketing claims, if we want to use special ingredients, packaging, customer requirements, if we work for a private label service, production possibilities, sensorial specification, physicochemical parameters. Characteristics of lipstick depend on the choice of raw materials, so if we know all the parameters mentioned above, the scale of the search area is much more limited. Note de contenu : - PHYSICOCHEMICAL PARAMETERS AND PACKAGING - REGULATIONS - STABILITY TESTS : Lipstick sweating - Colour fading - Wax crystallisation - Table 1 : Basic stability test for a non-aqueous system En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wAbBjqkhBOejsxFUlL4M2DP9bBn20Pcu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23190 [article]

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Balancing naturalness with continued results / Colin Saunders in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 52-53 Titre : Balancing naturalness with continued results Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Colin Saunders, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 52-53 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Cosmétiques Huiles et graisses végétales Ingrédients cosmétiques Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène Maquillage Rouges à lèvres Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This very popular lipstick has an eclectic mixture of the very naturel and the very synthetic. The origin of the materials seems not to have been a factor in their selection. They have concentrated on picking the best tool for the job. As it happens, the bulk of the constituents are naturel and sustainable. In the hands of those creative folks in marketing departments this lipstick could easily be made to sound like something so wholesome you would rather spread it on a suite of wholemeal bread than on your lips. It is certainly a lot greener than say a shampoo whose only nod in the direction of the environment is some essence of some herb. But I think the Mac team are wise in steering clear of the naturalness of their product in their promotion. Fashions can change very quickly. A lot of products that make a big play of their naturel credentials are not necessarily all that good. This is something the consumers might begin to notice. Or more likely, they will just not buy them again if they do not enjoy them. But good formulations will always find fans. By selecting the best functional ingredients they have created a product that people want to use again and again. I think there is a lesson here for all of us engaged in product development. At the end of the day how comforting the ingredient list reads is not that big a factor. It is what the ingredients do that is important. There are some great naturel raw materials available, particularly when you are looking at waxes and butters. As this Mac lipstick shows, naturel waxes can be the bedrock of a great formulation. But make sure you are using them because they are great, not because they are naturel. Note de contenu : - Castor oil - Trioctyldodecyl citrate - Glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate - Candelilla wax - Octyldodecanol - Jojoba oil - Cera alba - Sesame oil - Ozokerite - Carnauba wax - Cetyl ricinoleate - Microcrystalline wax - Ascorbyl palmitate - Vanillin - Tocopherol En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KSbv7FThPwxaHz5ksBK-8qPgITGoKz6R/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23191 [article]

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Analysis of cosmetic waxes and butters / Jennifer Hermitage in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 55-57 Titre : Analysis of cosmetic waxes and butters Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Jennifer Hermitage, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 55-57 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cires Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie Formulation (Génie chimique) Ingrédients cosmétiques Mascaras Pâteux (ingrédients cosmétiques) Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Waxes and butters have been used for many centuries and continue to form an important group of raw materials for the cosmetics sector. It would be impossible for us to produce a lipstick or mascara without waxes. Butters have important active benefits and skin feel qualities. There is a wide choice within this category and the combination in which they can be used is endless, thus allowing the formulator to create an infinite array or rheologies, textures and fuctional benefits. The raw materail choice will be governed by cost, performance and if the materials should be natural. Consumer demand for natural cosmtecis is strong and therefore the natural options available from this group of materials are such in demand. Note de contenu : - WAXES : Beeswax - Carnauba wax - Candelilla wax - Green tea wax - Rice bran wax - Laurel wax - Polyethylene wax - BUTTERS : Cocoa butter - Shea butter - Avocado butter - Mango butter - Olive butter - Formulation 1 : O/W emulsion mascara - Formulation 2 : Stevia sweet tea lip balm En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1937bTaN9_KZFtyUVAsIFxFNNQpxaK4iQ/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23194 [article]

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