[article]
| Titre : |
Emollients and Emulsifiers Exert their Sensory Impact in Different Phases of the Sensory Evaluation Process but How Does One Demonstrate the Absence of such an Influence? |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Johann W. Wiechers, Auteur ; Marie-Claire Taelman, Auteur ; Vincent A. L. Wortel, Auteur ; Cock Verboom, Auteur ; J. Chris Dederen, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2002 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 99-105 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Tags : |
'Skin sensory research' Emulsifier 'Cosmetic ingredient' Formulations 'Principal component analysis' |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
Whereas most experimental procedures in science are typically geared to show the presence or existence of objects or phenomena, showing the lack of presence, i.e. absence, of something is a lot more complicated, in particular if it cannot be seen. In order to demonstrate that a new emulsifier system did not impact the skin feel of a formulation in which it was incorporated, various formulations only differing in the emulsifier were made and their skin feel was compared using descriptive analysis. Paired comparisons were used to maximize the chance of measuring a difference. Clear differences were detected between the formulations in the early phases of the sensory evaluation process, demonstrating that emulsifiers in general do contribute to skin feel and to different degrees. The only remaining question was "what is no influence?"
Therefore, the formulations were compared with the neat oils, but the differences were found to be dramatic for all comparisons. When comparing formulations that only differed in their emollients, it could be shown that the formulations containing the new emulsifier were able to maintain small differences in skin feel that were also obsrved for the neat oils whereas the other emulsifier systems failed to maintain these differences or introduced new ones. The results also clearly demonstreted that while emulsifiers affect the skin feel in the early phases of sensory evaluation (appearance, pick-up and run-out), emollients exert their sensory impact predominantly during the after-feel of a cosmetic formulation.
It was conclued that despite the practical experience that the new emulsifier did not contribute to skin feel, it is impossible to show this due to the lack of a true reference that represents no skin effect. |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10652 |
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 5, N° 2 (04-05-06/2002) . - p. 99-105
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