The application of mixed micelle theory to personal care ingredients / John Gormley in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 6, N° 2 (04-05-06/2003) . - p. 133-138 Titre : The application of mixed micelle theory to personal care ingredients Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John Gormley, Auteur ; Chris Cook, Auteur Année de publication : 2003 Article en page(s) : p. 133-138 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Concentration micellaire critique Micelles Parabènes Produits de toilette Surfactants Tags : 'Synergie  d'agent  tensio-actif'  'Théorie  régulière  de  solution'  'Compteur-irritation'  'Nettoyage  doux'  'Efficacité  des  parabens' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Specific surfactant blends may contribute to reduce irritation by synergistically lowering the critical micelle concentration (CMC)and the monomer level of the more irritating surfactant in bulk solution. A computer program was made and used to calculate molecular interaction parameters (beta) using the widely accepted regular solution theory. This information allowed for the prediction of monomer levels at and above the CMC in mixed surfactant solutions having known CMC values. Such information is included for a series of amphoteric surfactants interacting with SLES-2 at pH 7 and ranked according to their efficiency in lowering the free anionic monomer content in the bulk phase. There is strong debate over whether a correlation truly exists between skin irritancy and CMC techniques. This technique and software provide part of the data set that can help support of refuse such a correlation. This technique was also used to prescreen a developmental non-ionic surfactant for counter-irritancy with C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonates. The test surfactant was found to lack synergy with the anionic mixture, thus predicting that it would not be a milder system. This prescreening prevented testing this system on humans or animals. The model was extended to calculate the interaction of Polysorbate-20 with propylparaben. The free active level(ex-micelle) of preservative was calculated as a function of total amount of preservative added. A strong interaction reduced the unbound propylparaben concentration such that anti-microbial activity was lost. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10604 [article]

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The power of retinol without the irritation / John Gormley in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015)  

[article]  inPERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 1 (02/2015) . - p. 21-22 Titre : The power of retinol without the irritation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : John Gormley, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 21-22 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge:Antirides Biomolécules actives Cosmétiques Peau -- Soins et hygiène Vitamine A Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Granative Retinoid (INCI Name : Dimethyl isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is a skin care active ingredient that belongs to a class of chemical compounds termed retinoids, which are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, capable of binding to retinoid receptors. The binding of retinoid receptors can enhance gene expression, which effectively turns key cellular functions on and off. When skin cell retinoid receptors are bound with retinoids, a cascade of mechanisms that benefit skin complexion are switched on. This can result in enhanced cell proliferation, bio synthesis of extracellular proteins and glycans, and improved cellular turnover. Stimulating these age-defying processes in the skin is critical for fighting and reversing signs of ageing. Note de contenu : - Biological pathways to youthful skin - Challenges with older generation vitamin A chemistries - Advanced opportunities in vitamin A skin care - Performance - Formulation En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pjEwen8WKB63gjTWnL3Hz_zA-lndjGQN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=23171 [article]

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