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How skincare ingredient concentrations can modulate the effect of polyols and oils on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness / G. W. Nam in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 1 (01-02-03/2006)
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Titre : How skincare ingredient concentrations can modulate the effect of polyols and oils on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : G. W. Nam, Auteur ; S. H. Kim, Auteur ; Eun Joo Kim, Auteur ; J. H. Kim, Auteur ; Byeong Gun Chae, Auteur ; Hae Kwang Lee, Auteur ; S. J. Moon, Auteur ; Hak-Hee kang, Auteur ; Ih Seop Chang, Auteur Année de publication : 2006 Article en page(s) : p. 37-41 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Huiles et graisses
Peau -- Biopsie
Peau -- Physiologie
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polyols
RugositéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skincare ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils are essential ingredients in a skin care formulation, but it is still not understood how their concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin. We studied various concentrations of ingredients from cosmetics companies using noninvasive methods. The polyols consisted of glycein and butylene glycol (BG) in a ratio of 1:1, and the oils consisted of equal parts of hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate. All compounds were tested in O/W emulsions in concentrations ranging from 0-27% for polyols and from 0-35% for oils. We investigated the effect on water content and stratum corneum roughness on forearm skin after application of the compounds. The skin water content was determined by skin capacitance measurements and the skin surface roughness by visual scoring of skin surface biopsies in the scanning electron microcrographs. The water content of the skin correlated highly with the polyol (up to 20 %) and oil (up to 12 %) concentrations, respectively. Two hours after application the correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985, respectively (p<0.01). Skin surface roughness not only showed a strong a ratio of 2.5 to 1 (polyols and oils). Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10536
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