Development of a novel oxidative hair color based on a system with an optimized ratio of higher alcohol to cationic surfactant / Takahiro Yamashita in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 8, N° 3 (07-08-09/2005)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 8, N° 3 (07-08-09/2005) . - p.163-169 Titre : Development of a novel oxidative hair color based on a system with an optimized ratio of higher alcohol to cationic surfactant Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Takahiro Yamashita, Auteur ; Masatoshi Ochiai, Auteur ; Kazuya Shibata, Auteur ; Masaaki Yasuda, Auteur ; Akira Noda, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p.163-169 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents de blanchiment Cheveux -- Teinture Surfactants Tags : 'Couleur  oxydante  des  cheveux'  'Agent  de  blanchiment'  'Rapport  molaire'  'Surfactant  cationique' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Oxidative hair color, the most commonly used for coloring hair, is characterized by its bleaching effect. This effect enables dark hair to be dyed in various bright colors. In order to enhance this bleaching effect, the concentration of either the alkalizing or oxidizing agent in the hair color base is generally increased. However, this method causes chemical damage to the hair. With the aim of finding methods to obtain an improved bleaching effect without increasing the amount of bleaching ingredients, the authors investigated the permeation mechanism. Cationic bases showed the highest bleaching effect and allowed greater penetration, permitting bleaching ingredients to enter the cortex of the hair more easily and diffuse more quickly. In addition, the molar ratios of higher alcohol (A) to cationic surfactant (C) as a function of the bleaching effect were also evaluated. The results showed an optimum range for this A/C ratio. The smoothness of the hair was also evaluated, revealing an optimum range for the A/C ratio. Based on these findings, a product with an A/C ratio that maximizes the bleaching effect and the smoothness of the hair was successfully developed. Comparison of this newly developed product with a conventional product verified that the new product has a greater bleaching effect and gives a beautiful depth of color while maintaining the silky smoothness of the texture of the hair. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10489 [article]

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A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water / Kei Watanabe in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 7, N° 4 (10-11-12/2004) . - p. 309-318 Titre : A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kei Watanabe, Auteur ; Masahiko Masuda, Auteur ; Kazuyoshi Nakamura, Auteur ; Tomoyuki Inaba, Auteur ; Akira Noda, Auteur ; Takeshi Yanagida, Auteur ; Toshio Yanaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2004 Article en page(s) : p. 309-318 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Bicontinuous  'makeup  remover'  'hydrophilic-lipophilic  balance'  'phase  diagram'  cleansing Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline cleansers. Furthermore, oil-based makeup removers do not leave the skin feeling fresh but oily, and often have been used in combination with surfactant-type cleansers. In other words, complete makeup removal and a fresh skin feel are considered to be incompatible in conventional formulation technologies. To obtain compatible systems, we investigated the applicability of a system known as the bicontinuous phase and eventually succeeded in developing a novel system for a makeup remover. This phase can be prepared with a specific composition with a complete hydrophilic-lipophilic balance in an oil/surfactant/water system by using cyclo-siloxane, which dissolves silicone resin well. The bicontinuous phase has an oil- and water-continuous microstructure, showing affinity for both aqueous and oily substances. This bicontinuous phase was applied to the development of a novel makeup remover. Determination of remover cap-ability and fresh skin feel revealed that the makeup could be completely removed and that the amount of oil remaining on skin surface after wash-off was much less than with previous oil-based removers. The results of the sensory test also supported the finding that the remover was far superior to conventional products. This makeup remover is the first example of the application of the bicontinuous phase technology to a cosmetic product and clearly seems to provide the best conditions for subsequent skin care, meaning that it is suitable for the first step in the skincare process. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10484 [article]

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