[article]
| Titre : |
4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol : a new, highly efficient lightening agent |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Gabriele Vielhaber, Auteur ; Gerhard Schmaus, Auteur ; karin jacobs, Auteur ; Helge Franke, Auteur ; Sabine Lange, Auteur ; Martina Herrmann, Auteur ; Holger Joppe, Auteur ; Oskar Koch, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2006 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 227-234 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Tags : |
'Allègement de peau' Tyrosinase 'Cellules mélanome B16' 'Modélisation d'épiderme en 3D' 'Etudes in vivo' |
| Index. décimale : |
668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques |
| Résumé : |
There is an increasing world-wide demand for skin lightening active ingredients. Many common lightening ingredients on the market are either unsafe or ineffective at low concentrations. We therefore screened a series of hydroxy-stilbene derivatives for tyrosinase inhibitory activity. By chemical synthesis, the structures were optimized for efficacy and stability. The final candidate, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol, was found to be stable and to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase 22 times more effectively than kojic acid. In an assay with B16V melanoma cells, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was the most potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis with an IC50 of 2 μM among the compounds investigated. The lightening effect of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was not due to cytotoxicity as proved by an MTT assay on B16V cells. On pigmented 3D epidermis models, 0.1% of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol led to an almost complete suppression of melanin synthesis after 14 days of incubation. Finally, an in vivo test on Asian subjects proved that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol efficiently lightens human skin at 0.5% dosage. Optimal results are achieved when 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is applied in formulations with low oil content. In summary, we have demonstrated that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is a potent, stable and safe skin lightener.
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| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10448 |
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 3 (07-08-09/2006) . - p. 227-234
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