An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 472-478 Titre : An automatic procedure that grades some facial skin structural signs: agreements and validation with clinical assessments made by dermatologists Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; M. Hofmann, Auteur ; E. Roo, Auteur ; C. Raimbault-Gerard, Auteur ; B. Chuberre, Auteur ; Y. Zhang, Auteur ; R. Jiang, Auteur ; Irina Kezele, Auteur ; J. Zhang, Auteur ; E Elmozino, Auteur ; J. Coquide, Auteur ; Vincent Arcin, Auteur ; Parham Aarabi, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 472-478 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Caucasien(ne)s Dermatologie Etudes cliniques Evaluation Femmes Photovieillissement (dermatologie) Système de notation Vieillissement cutané Visage Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - OBJECTIVE : To confirm the robustness and validity of an automatic scoring system, algorithm-based, that grades the severity of nine facial signs through "selfies" smartphones pictures taken by European Caucasian women through dermatological assessments. METHODS: 157 Caucasian women from three countries (France, Germany, Spain), of different ages (20-75 years), took one "selfie" image by the frontal camera of their smartphones whereas local dermatologists photographed them with the back camera of the same smartphone. The same nine facial signs of these subjects were initially graded by these local dermatologists, using referential Skin Aging Atlases. All 314 "selfies" images were then further automatically analyzed by the algorithm. The severity of facial signs (wrinkles, pigmentation, ptosis, skin folds etc.) were statistically compared to the assessments made by the three dermatologists, taken as ground truth. - RESULTS : Highly significant coefficients of correlation (P < 0.001) were found in the three cohorts between the grades provided by the system and those from dermatologists in live. The back camera - of a better resolution than the frontal one - seems affording slightly more significant correlations. However, although significantly correlated, the signs of vascular disorders and cheek skin pores present some disparities that are likely linked to the technical diversity of smartphones or self-shootings, leading to lower coefficients of correlations. - CONCLUSION : This automatic scoring system offers a promising approach in the harmonization of Dermatological assessments of skin facial signs and their changes with age or the follow up of anti-aging treatments. Note de contenu : - Subjects - Protocol - Statistics DOI : 10.1111/ics.12563 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15YUKd-XvjX_G9bcL0QhcIQjC6tPn3O6_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33214 [article]

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Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins / F. Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 1 (02/2021) . - p. 20-25 Titre : Changes in the eye contour signs due to age among Mexican women : Comparison with women of other ethnic origins Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : F. Flament, Auteur ; O. Coubard, Auteur ; R. Cruz, Auteur ; R. Flores, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 20-25 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Contour des yeux Etudes comparatives Femmes Groupe ethnique Mexicain(e)s Protocole d'étude Statistique Vieillissement cutané Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To evaluate the changes in certain ocular signs because of age, among Mexican women and to compare these with those previously obtained on women of other ethnicities. Material and methods Photographs were taken of the faces of 203 Mexican women of different ages, under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed us to focus and define nine ocular signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. Hence, the same protocol, previously used on 3240 women of four other ethnic origins (Caucasian : 600; Chinese : 990 ; Japanese : 1010 ; Indian : 300 ; African: 340), allowed us to compare the results obtained on Mexican women. - Results : The severity of crow’s feet wrinkles for Mexican women shows a more intense progression with age than those of women from other ancestries. The lower eyelid wrinkles of Mexican women, that show weak or erratic changes with time, were however found to have higher and significant severity at a young age. Pigmentation disorders of their ocular area were found less pronounced as compared to those of Asian or Indian women. Eye bags were observed with similar slight changes in all five ancestries. - Conclusion : The present work confirms that the clinical signs of age for the female eye area develop differently depending on the ethnic origins of the volunteer. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Subjects - Protocol - Grading the facial skin ageing signs - Statistics - Table 1 : Distribution of the studied Mexican women with age clusters - Table 2 : Illustration of the 9 studied ocular signs and their respective grading ranges in Mexican women - Table 3 : Changes of 9 ocular signs with ages in Mexican women (Mean ± Standard Deviation, S.D.). Grey, Orange or Green colours cells equivalent to non-significant differences among them. Each white cell is significantly different from all others DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12662 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/10f-za867HPOJFWHruI_kJjDFmeqnfkh2/view?usp=share [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35440 [article]

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Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women : A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 43, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 547-560 Titre : Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women : A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Rainer Voegeli, Auteur ; Rotraut Schoop, Auteur ; Elodie Prestat-Marquis, Auteur ; Anthony Vincent Rawlings, Auteur ; Todd K. Shackelford, Auteur ; Bernhard Fink, Auteur Année de publication : 2021 Article en page(s) : p. 547-560 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Âge chronologique Femmes Groupe ethnique Imagerie (technique) Perception de l'âge Statistique Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors. - Methods : Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20–34, 35–49, 50–66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity). - Results : Across ethnicities, Δ age was smallest in French assessors and largest in South African assessors. Numerically, French women were judged oldest and Chinese women youngest relative to chronological age. In younger women, Δ age was larger than in middle-aged and older women. This effect was particularly evident when considering the interaction of women's age with assessor gender and ethnicity, independently and together, on Δ age. - Conclusion : Collectively, our findings suggest that accuracy in assessments of female age from digital portraits depends on the chronological age and ethnicity of the photographed women and the ethnicity and gender of the assessor. We discuss the findings concerning ethnic variation in skin pigmentation and visible signs of ageing and comment on implications for cosmetic science. Note de contenu : - Study sample - Facial imaging - Face ratings - Statistical analysis - Table 1 : Sociodemographic information and skin pigmentation of female and male assessors in the rating study - Table 2 : Sociodemographic information and skin pigmentation of imaged female participants (n = 12 for each group, chronological age in years ± SD) - Table 3 : Main and interaction effects of assessor ethnicity and gender, and participant ethnicity and age group, on differences between perceived and chronological age (Δ age) of female portraits DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12727 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/17PMapcZcJhKn_-Sd2WHq4uZ8M7av_CJ-/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=36859 [article]

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Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 41, N° 5 (10/2019) . - p. 443-449 Titre : Morphometric characteristics of feminine eyebrows : variations with ethnicities and age Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Frédéric Flament, Auteur ; I. Seyrek, Auteur ; G. François, Auteur ; T. Zhu, Auteur ; C. Ye, Auteur ; Didier Saint-Léger, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 443-449 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Femmes Groupe ethnique Sourcils Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : To explore some morphological features of the eyebrows of women of different ethnicities and ages. - Materials and Methods : Standard digital photographs of 3600 women of six ethnicities, aged 18–84 years, previously used to describe the morphology of the human eyes, allowed us to focus on their eyebrows, as supplementary and opportunistic study. Photographs of both eyebrows were analysed partly by manual markings and automatically by dedicated algorithms. Six parameters of the eyebrows were recorded: length, waviness/curvature, oblique aspect, size (vertical height), total surface and hair coverage (density). - Results : Most criteria present ethnic specificities. These are: length (longer eyebrows of Indian, shorter among African women); waviness where the straighter eyebrows were found among Chinese and Japanese women. In general, the longer the eyebrows, the higher their waviness and vice versa. Thickness (or height) of the eyebrows presents a wide ethnic variability as well as hair coverage, where African women present the lower hair density, inversely to Indian women. The same holds true with regard to the total surface of eyebrows, of a large variability (by about four times). Some criteria appear more individually dependent than ethnic-specific, such as the oblique positioning, at the exception of Indian women with less oblique eyebrows. In all subjects, the criteria of both eyebrows (Left vs. Right) were found to be highly correlated (r > 0.7, P < 0.001). - Conclusion : The present investigation brings new findings on a scarcely studied facial element, the morphologic features of which are, for most, ethnic-dependent. As applied consequences, the results of the present work pave the road to better adapt adorning procedures of the eyebrows vis-à-vis ethnic and age specificities. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Protocol - Reproducibility of the image markings - Statistics - Retained parameters - RESULTS : Lengths of the eyebrows - Waviness of the eyebrows - Horizontality of the eyebrows - Magnitudes of the eyebrows DOI : 10.1111/ics12557 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18PZD6gtkLBN3dZyhzZiJwOPYFpFmF5kk/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=33202 [article]

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Perceived age and perceived health among a Chinese cohort : Does it mean the same thing ? / C. Messaraa in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021)  

[article]  inINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 5 (10/2021) . - p. 471-481 Titre : Perceived age and perceived health among a Chinese cohort : Does it mean the same thing ? Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Messaraa, Auteur ; T. J. C. Richard, Auteur ; M. Walsh, Auteur ; L. Doyle, Auteur ; C. O'Connor, Auteur ; N. Robertson, Auteur ; A. Mansfield, Auteur ; S. Hurley, Auteur ; Alain Mavon, Auteur ; A. Grenz, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 471-481 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chinois(e)s Femmes Peau -- Perception visuelle Perception de l'âge Perception de l'état de santé Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Background & aims : Previous investigations have aimed at investigating parameters affecting age perception on several ethnicities. Perceived health has been a newer focus on Caucasian skin, yet little is known on the skin features used to estimate the health status of Chinese women and we aimed to investigate whether these cues are the same as those used for age perception. - Methods : Age and health appearance of 276 Chinese female volunteers were estimated from their photographs by 1025 female naïve Chinese graders 20-69 years old. Models were built to predict perceived age and health from topographic, colour and biophysical measured variables, in two subsets of the studied volunteers: below and above 50 years. Machine learning‐based predictive models for age and health perception were built on the collected data, and the interpretability of the models was established by measuring feature importance. - Results : Age perception was mostly driven by topographic features, particularly eye bags and eyelid sagging in the group below 50 years old. Wrinkles, notably from the lower part of the face and oval of the lower face, were found to be more relevant in the group above 50 years. Health appearance was primarily signalled by skin imperfections and global pigmentation in the subset below 50 years, whereas colour‐related parameters and skin hydration acted as health cues for the subset above 50 years. - Conclusion : Distinct skin features were acting as cues for age perception and/or health perception and varied per age subset. Their contribution should be borne in mind when designing products for ‘younger looking skin' and 'healthier looking skin'. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Volunteers - Photographs followed by facial attributes assessment through expert grading, dermatological grading or image analysis - Antera 3D measurements - Biozoom measurements - Probe measurements - Perceived age and perceived health assessment by naïve graders - Self-declared skin ageing concerns - Statistic analysis - Machine learning analysis - RESULTS : Robustness of the models - Skin features having an impact on perceived age - Skin features having an impact on perceived health - Self-declared skin ageing concerns - Table 1 : List of skin concerns included in the ranking question for the naïve graders - Table 2 : List of facial attributes measured from photographs, probes, Antera 3D and Biozoom according to their category - Table 3 : Average performances over 5 rounds of training/testing/validation of machine learning or dummy models, trained on different data based on demographic age and predicting health score or perceived age DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12647 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tC3UerhuY_w5OkV6xYVS2HjYQy-NPaaw/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35412 [article]

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Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 5 (10/2023)  

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Seasonally-induced alterations of some facial signs in Caucasian women and their changes induced by a daily application of a photo-protective product / Frédéric Flament in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 39, N° 6 (12/2017)

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The influence of age, gender and race/ethnicity of the composition of the human axillary microbiome / M. Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 41, N° 4 (08/2019)  

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Topical niacinamide enhances hydrophobicity and resilience of corneocyte envelopes on different facial locations / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)  

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Towards a body hair atlas of women of caucasian ethnicity / Dorothea Schweiger in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 38, N° 4 (08/2016)  

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