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Titre : L'aquaporine 8 : nouvelle cible pour l'hydratation cutanée Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Pierre-Yves Morvan, Auteur ; Romuald Vallée, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 56-58 Langues : Français (fre) Catégories : Aquaporines
Cosmétiques
Produits hydratantsTags : Cosmétologie Recherche Aquaporine 'Hydratation peau' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : L'ammoniaporine, AQP8, a été mise en évidence dans l'épiderme. Elle pourrait être au centre du métabolisme de l'urée en favorisant l'entrée de l'ion ammonium dans la mitochondrie ou en favorisant son expression dans l'épiderme. Note de contenu : - Rôle des aquaporines
- Résultats
- Discussion-ConclusionEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E_gneFoUzZkdBdg_SHO2jYjoBghU3cbq/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=14311
in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES > N° 194 (04-05/2007) . - p. 56-58[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 006867 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Supplementation with nutritional cartilage extract positively influences skin hydratation, skin barrier and skin structure : a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study / Ulrike Heinrich in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 9, N° 4 (10-11-12/2006)
[article]
Titre : Supplementation with nutritional cartilage extract positively influences skin hydratation, skin barrier and skin structure : a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ulrike Heinrich, Auteur ; Birgit Garbe, Auteur ; Hagen Tronnier, Auteur ; Marie Béjot, Auteur ; Jean Marc Maurette, Auteur Année de publication : 2007 Article en page(s) : p. 319-323 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Nutrition Suppléments 'Extrait de cartilage' 'Hydratation la peau' 'Barrière 'Structure Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The aim of the study was to evaluate the efficacy of polysaccharides from fish cartilage with regard to their skin aging properties. An application test was carried out during the intake of cartilage tablets as a nutritional supplement. The study was designed as a monocentric, double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled-application test. 28 healthy female volunteers (35-60 years) with dry skin were included in the study. They were divided into two groups. Group 1 received tablets containing placebo and group 2 the verum treatment (cartilage hydrolytase combined with vitamin C). The duration of the study was 12 weeks. The focus of interest was to find out about the hydration properties, and to see whether the skin barrier and structure were influenced by the test formulation compared with placebo.
Hydration measurements were made before and during the study, and the transepidermal water loss (barrierer function of the skin) was measured. The thickness and density of the skin of all volunteers were determined by means of ultrasound measurements during of the study. Statistical analysis was based on the Wilcoxon signed rank test.
The following results were obtained in this study : there was a significant improvement in the hydration properties, a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss and a significant increase in the skin density in the verum group (cartilage extract). Nor or minor improvements could be detected in the placebo group.
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in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 9, N° 4 (10-11-12/2006) . - p. 319-323[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 007645 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Skin moisturisation and elasticity originate from at least two different mechanisms / J. M. Wiechers in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999)
[article]
Titre : Skin moisturisation and elasticity originate from at least two different mechanisms Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : J. M. Wiechers, Auteur ; T. Barlow, Auteur Année de publication : 1999 Article en page(s) : p. 425–435 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Cosmétiques 'Hydratation de la peau' 'Elasticité Efficacité Occlusion Humectance Absorption 'Analyse en composantes principales' 'Mélanges multifonctionnels' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Skin moisturisation and elasticity are clearly linked in people’s mind. For a large series of neat personal care ingredients we measured both their skin moisturising and plasticising performance on human skin in-vivo, and were able to rank the products according to their effectiveness. Efficacy was expressed relative to benchmark products: glycerine for moisturisation and water for elasticity. A good spread in skin moisturisation efficacy was found: 15 of our products had a relative performance of less than 30%, 23 products scored between 30 and 70% and 7 ingredients marked above 70%. For skin elasticity, the number of products in the corresponding groups was 36, 4 and 2. This discrepancy could be due to the choice of benchmark products, but when the values for relative elasticity performance of the various ingredients were plotted against those of relative moisturisation effectiveness, it became obvious that skin moisturisation and elasticity are not linearly correlated. This is at least remarkable as water was used as the benchmark product for skin elasticity. The common belief that increased skin moisturisation will automatically lead to enhanced skin elasticity is therefore unlikely to be true.
The only logical conclusion seems to be that different molecular and/or biochemical mechanisms are contributing to these two skin functionalities. By means of Principal Component Analysis, the correlation between molecular descriptors such as skin penetration and humectancy on the one hand and substantivity and occlusivity on the other was evaluated to explain the observed skin moisturisation. It became obvious that none of these purely molecule-based molecular descriptors could explain the measured skin effects. Skin itself plays an important role in a yet unidentified manner. If both activities are desired in one cosmetic formulation, at least two active ingredients will need to be incorporated, each contributing to one of the two effects.
Examples of multifunctional mixtures and an assessment of the feasibility of obtaining multifunctional molecules are presented.DOI : 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.236815.x En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.236815.x Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26473
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 21, N° 6 (12/1999) . - p. 425–435[article]