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The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen / Paul Mouser in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023)
[article]
Titre : The beauty of biodesign : new frontier for collagen Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Paul Mouser, Auteur ; Erin Turner, Auteur ; Michela Caffrey, Auteur ; Nick Ouzounov, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 73-76 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antiâge
Biotechnologie
Collagène
Collagène -- Synthèse
Dermo-cosmétologie
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygièneIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's beauty consumer demands sustainable, animal-free, and performance driven products. These shifting sentiments put active ingredients in the spotlight and demand innovation. Biodesign is rising to the challenge. This approach to product development combines advances in computational biology and precision fermentation to deliver the best of nature's depth and diversity to consumers. White many are familiar with biotechnology's first breakthrough ingredient — hyaluronic acid (HA) — proteins like collagen have rapidly emerged as the pioneering products enabled by biodesign.
HA from microbial fermentation paved the way for future fermentation-derived bioactive ingredients. In 1998 scientists at Savient Pharmaceuticals successfully produced high molecular weight HA, historically sourced from rooster combs, through precision fermentation of the microorganism Streptococcus zooepidemicus' Biotechnology unlocked the potential to create sustainable alternatives to animal-derived molecules that eliminate unethical practices, complicated supply chains, and the use of environmentally harsh chemical processes.
Collagen is another popular ingredient in beauty and an important target for biodesign as it is the most abundant protein in the human body, responsible for structure, stability, and strength within the dermal layers. In addition to its essential structural function, collagen is a signaling molecule defining cellular activities.
There are at least 28 types of collagen identified in the body, all sharing a common triple helix structure yet differing in a- chain composition.Note de contenu : - ECM stimulation - in vitro
- ECM stimulation - in vivo
- Endogenous production of HAEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Li5Umjr68-AgSK7CTMRg_ernPoYd-Fso/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38985
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023) . - p. 73-76[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23899 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The benefits of recycled silicone polymers / Alexander Selig in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)
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Titre : The benefits of recycled silicone polymers Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Alexander Selig, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 76-78 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Développement durable
Économie circulaireL'économie circulaire est une expression générique désignant un concept économique qui s'inscrit dans le cadre du développement durable et s'inspirant notamment des notions d'économie verte, d’économie de l'usage ou de l'économie de la fonctionnalité, de l'économie de la performance et de l'écologie industrielle (laquelle veut que le déchet d'une industrie soit recyclé en matière première d'une autre industrie ou de la même).
Son objectif est de produire des biens et services tout en limitant fortement la consommation et le gaspillage des matières premières, et des sources d'énergies non renouvelables ;
Selon la fondation Ellen Mac Arthur (créée pour promouvoir l'économie circulaire1), il s'agit d'une économie industrielle qui est, à dessein ou par intention, réparatrice et dans laquelle les flux de matières sont de deux types bien séparés ; les nutriments biologiques, destinés à ré-entrer dans la biosphère en toute sécurité, et des intrants techniques ("technical nutrients"), conçus pour être recyclés en restant à haut niveau de qualité, sans entrer dans la biosphère
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Polymères -- Recyclage
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The author explains how the German firm was able to create and develop a process to use monomers made from silicone waste to bring them back into a high-quality polymer.
Trend researchers have declared neo-ecology as the most important megatrend of the 2020s. It describes the transformation to a resourceefficient, sustainable economy that is taking place in society, with product characteristics that bring together added value and longevity.
More and more consumers prefer brands and companies that offer more than just a product. In particular, the new generation values the sustainable ideals of swapping and reusing, especially when it comes to preserving the value of a product or to save the environment.Note de contenu : - Circular economy and Sustainable Development Goals
- Recycling end-of-life silicone products
- Silicones contribute to water conservation
- CHT´s contribution - CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 EM
- PerformanceEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1koFBkUlXwp3BcCHsh7KPQfFpCCQxgmQY/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=38369
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23569 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The botanical approach to sourcing requirements / Bernard Weniger in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (09/2011)
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Titre : The botanical approach to sourcing requirements Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Bernard Weniger, Auteur Année de publication : 2011 Article en page(s) : p. 90-92 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Ethique de l'environnement
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Gestion de l'approvisionnement
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Logistique (organisation)
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : One of the major current trends in the cosmetics industry, based on both scientific and “marketing” criteria, is the pronounced aspiration to use an increasing number of plant extracts or natural molecules not used in cosmetic formulations before.
This change involves sourcing issues of plant starting materials and is, by definition, very different from that of synthetic substances. Although access to information of exotic plants from various regions of the world is relatively uncomplicated, this highly diversified sourcing nevertheless must be integrated into a relatively complex, global policy. The path generally followed involves the identification of active molecules and associated mechanisms of action, and requires costly studies to demonstrate efficacy and a lack of toxicity that in some instances do not provide the expected results. The necessity of marketing “renewal” is such that the lifetime of a cosmetic active substance is very short compared to therapeutic or dietetic plant products. This requires making the right choices to ensure a return on investment. This does not include the fact that, before setting up a supply chain for the production of plant starting materials, several criteria must be fulfilled, or at least taken into account and evaluated. This is because commitments to development programmes not fully controlled generally lead to failure that could help discourage future attempts. This contribution to sourcing policy will first address important “upstream” aspects of the industry’s search and selection process for natural ingredients with cosmetic potential. This will be followed by requirements related to agriculture and/or collection practices, providing a number of guarantees required for the quality and traceability of the material. The last point involves placing the accent on social and environmental responsibility.Note de contenu : - Bio-prospecting
- Identity
- Quality and hygiene
- Training and regulatory compliance
- Environmental and social responsabilityPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=12854
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 13351 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The challenge of effectively stable, Anhydrous Colour Cosmetic formulations / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 12 (12/2016)
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Titre : The challenge of effectively stable, Anhydrous Colour Cosmetic formulations Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 24-28 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Anhydre En principe, un matériau est anhydre, "sans eau", s'il ne contient pas du tout d'eau.
En pratique, on qualifie une substance (sel, cristal ionique, composé, solvant, gaz, etc.) d'anhydre quand elle contient très peu d'eau libre, comparée aux formes courantes de cette substance.
Cosmétiques
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Maquillage
Rouges à lèvresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Anhydrous Colour Cosmetic products are mixtures of waxes, emollients, fatty alcohols, preservatives, fragrances and various pigments. Developing these products requires understanding the physical characteristics of the ingredients as well as the mechanical process required to manufacture the product. Two essential material characteristics to consider are the ingredient's melting point and its solubility behavior. Depending on the chosen ingredients and the manufacturing procedure different problems can occur of which oil bleeding (sweating) and re-crystallization are the most common ones. There are several reasons possible, sometimes the composition is faultless but the manufacturing procedure does not match the formulation and ruins the result. Note de contenu : - Formulating lip-make up with long lasting properties
- The challenge of product stability
- Evaporation and contamination
- Interactions between waxes and oils
- FIGURES : 1. a) Oleogel showing oil bleeding and b) Stabilized oleogel by adding 2.5 % Sunflower seed wax - 2. Lipstick with blooming - 3. a) Turbid melt of a standard quality (natural) was and b) Clear melt of a high purity (natural wax) - 4. a) Pencil lead with white mold layer and b) Pencil lead with sodium hyaluronate crystalsPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=27867
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18535 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The challenge of producing a vegan formulation in beauty products / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 4 (04/2016)
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Titre : The challenge of producing a vegan formulation in beauty products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Martina Heldermann, Auteur Année de publication : 2016 Article en page(s) : p. 54-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie végétale
Cosmétiques -- Marketing
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Marketing personnalisé
Produits naturelsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It's not only food that can be vegan — beauty products can be free of animal byproducts too. But what does that really mean for the formulation ? ... At least one answer from KahlWax.
Formulating natural cosmetics, as all cosmetic scientists know, is challenging. Over the years, the number of raw materials that are suitable for natural cosmetics has grown tremendously, enabling the formulation of natural cosmetics with galenic and sensory properties that are more appealing to the consumer than some years ago. It is still very much a challenge, however, especially when taking into account the price of natural formulations, which tend to be more expensive than non-natural formulations. This is probably one of the main reasons why green washing is still such a common phenomenon in the cosmetics
market. More and more cosmetics manufacturers require raw materials that are not just natural, but also vegan, an attribute that was not originally linked with natural origins, but is now expected by consumers. This makes sourcing and formulation even more complicated, especially given that animal-derived ingredients such as beeswax are not easily replaced.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=26692
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 18171 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible The challenge of sustainable natural waxes / Martina Heldermann in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)
PermalinkThe dawn of designed enzymatic biopolymers / Natnael Behabtu in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 3 (03/2023)
PermalinkThe dermal-epidermal junction : a key target for anti-ageing products / Jean-François Nicolaÿ in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
PermalinkPermalinkThe extracellular metabolite of bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 as the next generation cosmetic ingredient / Muhammed Majeed in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)
PermalinkThe future of biodegradable emollients / Sabrina Mizaël in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
PermalinkThe golgi apparatus - Cellular detox super hero / Emina Besic Gyenge in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 4 (04/2020)
PermalinkThe harmful effects preservatives from the perspective of micro-ecology / Xing Liu in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
PermalinkThe holistic PIVOT profile : how ingredients influence sensoriality / Emmanuelle Merat in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 3 (03/2016)
PermalinkThe ideal cosmetic ally for the cold / Julia Comas in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 142, N° 1 (01/2016)
PermalinkThe importance of marine sustainability / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 14, N° 2 (04/2020)
PermalinkThe influence of natural gelling agents on the foaming behaviour and foam structure in surfactant systems / Gina marin Velasquez in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 1-2 (01-02/2020)
PermalinkThe key phytochemistry of rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) contributing to hair protection against UV / Jennifer M. Marsh in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 45, N° 6 (12/2023)
PermalinkThe many functions of azelaic acid in cosmetics / Lisanne Brouns in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 9 (10/2023)
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