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Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property / Toshiyuki Iwata in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013)
[article]
Titre : Effect of the behenyl trimethyl ammonium counterion on the lamellar gel property Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Toshiyuki Iwata, Auteur ; Kenji Aramaki, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 249-254 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chlorure de béhényl triméthylammonium
Composés lamellaires
Composites
Conditionnement
Cosmétiques
Couches minces multicouches
Friction humide
Gels -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Méthylsulfate de behenyl triméthylammonium
Rayons X -- Diffusion
RhéologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A gel network made of behenyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate (BTAMS) and its chloride version (BTAC) were compared for their colloidal structure, rheological properties and wet friction. The hair conditioners made of these gel networks were evaluated by a consumer panel for wet conditioning performance. The BTAMS gel network had a higher G', G'' and σ950 than the BTAC gel network. The rheology of the BTAMS gel network was more responsive to the concentration of the surfactant and fatty alcohols due to the bulk water phase outside the BTAMS lamellar gel phase. While the BTAC gel network swells accordingly depending on the concentration, nos sign of a bulk water phase was found. Despite the presence of a bulk water phase, the BTAMS lamellar gel was much stiffer than the BTAC lamellar gel, thus contributing to the higher G', G'' and sigma950, and making it difficult to break under conditions of stress (rinsing), which leads to a lower wet friction during rinsing that is noticeable to the consumer. The lower wet friction was not due to greater depostion of conditioning ingredients. Note de contenu : - EXPERIMENTAL : Materials and formulation - Rheology - Small and wide angle X-ray scattering - Hair swatch preparation - Wet friction - Consumer panel test
- RESULT AND DISCUSSION : Rheology - Lamellar gel structure -Wet frictionPermalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20155
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 16, N° 4 (10-11-12/2013) . - p. 249-254[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15845 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)
[article]
Titre : Effect of two shampoo formulations on the prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiota composition of the human scalp Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 62-70 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Acides ribonucléique
Âge
Bactéries
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cuir chevelu
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Dermo-cosmétologie
Levures (botanique)
Microbiote cutané
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : The human scalp is characterized by a moderately diverse microbial community, comprising prokaryotic (bacteria) and eukaryotic (fungi) members. Although the details are far from being fully understood, the human scalp microbiota is implicated in several scalp disorders, in particular dandruff formation. Hence, the protection of an intact and diverse scalp microbiota can be regarded as a quality criterion for hair and scalp care formulations. In this study, we investigated the influence of two commercially available, non-antimicrobial shampoo formulations on the structure of the scalp microbiota.
- Methods : Scalp microbiota samples, obtained by swab sampling from two cohorts of probands (n = 25, each), were analysed before and after daily use of two different shampoo formulations for 2 weeks, respectively. A polyphasic approach was used, comprising quantitative cultivation of bacteria and fungi on selective media as well as sequencing of PCR-amplified 16S rRNA and 18S rRNA genes, respectively.
- Results : All analyses revealed a microbiota composition typical for the human scalp. While in particular fungal germ numbers increased significantly during the treatments, overall bacterial and fungal community composition was not affected, based on alpha- and beta-diversity measures. However, we observed an increase in structural bacterial diversity with the age of the probands.
- Conclusions : Over an application period of 2 weeks, the investigated shampoo induced quantitative but no qualitative changes in the scalp microbial community structure of the investigated probands, suggesting no adverse but rather preserving or even stimulating effects of the underlying formulations on the scalp microbiota. Further investigation will have to clarify if this is also true for longer application periods and if the formulations might affect community functionality, for example microbial gene expression, rather than community composition.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Application study and scalp sampling - Microbiological cell counts - DNA extraction for molecular analyses - Library preparation and sequencing - Bioinformatical and statistical analyses
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Sequencing data and general microbial community composition - Factors influencing microbial community composition
- Table 1 : INCI list of the used shampoo formulationsDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12895 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/15s-ZDMAWc8OzdyvN0HdKGUiGQoIuXn5t/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40579
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 62-70[article]Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering / Irene Montano in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018)
[article]
Titre : Effective protection and repair of the hair from daily weathering Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Irene Montano, Auteur ; Franziska Wandrey, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 10-14 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antioxydants
Antiradicalaire
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux -- Teinture
Cosmétiques
Essais de résilience
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Protection thermique
Résistance aux conditions climatiquesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip and is the result of a series of cosmetic and environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as brushing, combing, dyeing, straightening, perming, etc., as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light and polluted air can induce structural damage to the F-layer and the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease in hair shine, color, elasticity and strength is observed, which eventually leads to hair damage. In different studies measured utilizing state-of-the-art technologies, a hair care ingredient that combines tara tannins derived from Caesalpinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract (trade name KeraGuard), revealed a capacity to protect hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was also shown to protect dyed hair from color fading and heat damage as well as to repair chemically treated hair. Note de contenu : - INTRODUCTION : The hair unit - The F-layer - The hair is constantly exposed to stress factors
- METHODS : Determination of the antioxidant power - Analysis of the radical scavenging properties by ESR spectroscopy - Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy on bleached hair - Hair color protection - Heat damage test
- RESULTS : Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C - Antioxidant protection effect on hair - Hair color protection against sequential washing and UV exposure - Restoraton of bleached hair - Protection of the hair from heat damage
- FIGURES : 1. Structure of the cuticle F-layer - 2. Antioxidant power compared to that of vitamin C and green tea - 3. Radical scavenging effect. Antioxidant protection effect at 0,5% and 1.0% active ingredient with/without washing - 4. Hair color protection effect against washing and UV exposure in comparison to the placebo - 5. Repair of bleached hair. Restoration effect of the hair after bleaching using 0.5% and 1.0% active ingredientEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1io77hGKB52fP6fVx8j1AX16-_-gxZoar/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=30350
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 144, N° 3 (03/2018) . - p. 10-14[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19758 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Effects of watercress extract fraction on R-spondin 1-mediated growth of human hair / Masakazu Hashimoto in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : Effects of watercress extract fraction on R-spondin 1-mediated growth of human hair Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : Masakazu Hashimoto, Auteur ; Yuka Kawai, Auteur ; Teruaki Masutani, Auteur ; Kiyotaka Tanaka, Auteur ; Kenichi Ito, Auteur ; Arunasiri Iddamalgoda, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 154-165 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alopécie
Cheveux -- Croissance
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cheveux gris
Cresson et constituants
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Extraits de plantes:Extraits (pharmacie)
Produits capillaires
Tests de sécuritéIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : Hair loss and greying affect men and women of all ages, often causing psychosocial difficulties. Dickkopf-1 (DKK1), a major hair loss factor secreted from dermal papilla (DP) cells in response to the secretion of dihydrotestosterone (DHT), has been reported to induce and accelerate androgenetic alopecia (AGA). In addition, DKK1 acts as a potent suppressor of melanogenesis and is closely related to hair colour. R-spondin 1 (RSPO1) is a secretory agonist of Wnt signalling known to antagonize the effects of DKK1, including DKK1-mediated hair follicle suppression. In this study, we investigated the effect of watercress extract (WCE) on the secretion of RSPO1 and DKK1 from DP cells as well as its anti-hair loss effect in human hair follicles and patients.
- Methods : The in vitro secretion of RSPO1 and DKK1 was measured by ELISA. Human hair follicles were collected from the scalp of a female donor and used for ex vivo organ culture to investigate the effects of WCE on human hair loss. Finally, a 6-month human clinical trial was conducted to examine the effect of WCE-containing lotion on hair growth in a male panel.
- Results : WCE significantly upregulated RSPO1 secretion and suppressed DKK1 secretion in a dose-dependent manner, even in the presence of DHT. WCE-treated hair follicles elongated 1.6-fold compared with the control, and the level of RSPO1 production in DP as well as RSPO1 bound to the outer root sheath (ORS) increased. In the clinical trial, the hair lotion containing 2% WCE increased hair thickness and density to improve against hair loss symptoms.
- Conclusion : WCE exhibited a strong anti-androgenic effect through its ability to suppress DKK1 secretion and antagonize DKK1 via RSPO1. These findings highlighted the potential use of WCE for the treatment of hair loss.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fractionation and identification of WCE components - Treatment with RSPO1, DKK1 and Wnt-3a - Measurements of protein secretion from DP cells - Elongation and immunohistochemistry of hair follicle ex vivo - Statistical analyses
- RESULTS : Enhancement of Wnt signalling by RSPO1 - Effect of WCE on RSPO1 and DKK1 secretion in DP cells - Hair follicle elongation ex vivo - Clinical trialDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12764 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mEtlNb-0EHtJAaI-UEiACOIUsnbeQepv/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37719
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 44, N° 2 (04/2022) . - p. 154-165[article]Efficacy of an agonist of α-MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20, in hair pigmentation / S. Almeida Scalvino in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 5 (10/2018)
[article]
Titre : Efficacy of an agonist of α-MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20, in hair pigmentation Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : S. Almeida Scalvino, Auteur ; A. Chapelle, Auteur ; N. Hajem ; Elian Lati ; Philippe Gasser ; J-C. Choulot ; Michel Lavalou ; Michel Hocquaux ; Estelle Loing ; Joan Attia-Vigneau ; J. Wdzieczak-Bakala Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 516-524 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Blanchiment
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Chimie biomimétique
Etudes cliniques
Peptides
Pigmentation des cheveuxIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objectif : Le blanchiment des cheveux (i.e., canitie) est un élément du vieillissement chronologique qui se produit indépendamment du genre ou de l'ethnie. La canitie est directement liée à la perte de mélanine et à l'augmentation du stress oxydatif dans le follicule et la tige pilaires. Pour favoriser la pigmentation des cheveux et réduire le processus de blanchiment des cheveux, un agoniste de l'"α‐mélanocyte‐stimulating hormone" (α‐MSH), un peptide biomimétique ("palmitoyl tetrapeptide‐20" ; PTP20) a été développé. Le but de cette étude est de décrire les effets de ce peptide conçu, sur le blanchiment des cheveux.
- Méthodes : L'effet du PTP20 a été évalué sur l'activité enzymatique de la catalase et la production de H2O2 par les cellules humaines de la papille dermique du follicule pileux (« Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells », HFDPC). L'influence du PTP20 sur l'expression du récepteur à la mélanocortine ("melanocortin receptor‐1", MC1‐R) et sur la production de mélanine ont été étudiés. L'activité enzymatique de la sirtuine 1 (SIRT1), après traitement avec PTP20, a aussi été déterminée. Des études ex vivo sur cheveux humains microdisséqués ont permis de visualiser l'effet du PTP20 sur l'expression de la catalase, TRP‐1, TRP‐2, Melan‐A, ASIP et MC1‐R, dans le follicule pileux. Ces études ont été complétées par un essai clinique incluant 15 volontaires masculins souffrant de canitie précoce.
- Résultats : Les études in vitro et ex vivo ont révélé la capacité du peptide PTP20 examiné, à augmenter l'expression de la catalase et à diminuer (30%) le niveau intracellulaire de H2O2. De plus, il a été montré que PTP20 activait le processus de mélanogénèse in vitro et ex vivo. En fait, il a été montré qu'une augmentation de la production de mélanine était corrélée avec une expression plus élevée de MC1‐R, TRP‐1 et Melan‐A, ainsi qu'avec une réduction de l'expression d'ASIP. Une modulation de TRP‐2 a aussi été observée. Le rôle clé de MC1‐R a été confirmé après analyse d'expressions protéiques, sur les cheveux épilés des volontaires, après 3 mois d'application quotidienne d'une lotion contenant 10 ppm du peptide PTP20.
- Conclusion : Les conclusions actuelles démontrent la capacité du peptide biomimétique PTP20 à préserver la fonction des mélanocytes folliculaires. Les résultats présentés suggèrent une potentielle application cosmétique de cet agoniste d' α‐MSH nouvellement conçu, pour favoriser la pigmentation et par conséquent, réduire le processus de blanchiment des cheveux.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Peptide design- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-20 synthesis - Cell culture - Evaluation of the MCI-R receptor transactivation - Evaluation of melanin synthesis - Determination of catalase enzymatic activity - SIRT1 activity evaluation - Microdissected human hairs ex vivo - In vivo clinical study - Staining & fluorescent immunostainings & immunohistochemistry - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Effect of PTP20 ON MC1-R receptor transactivation - Effect of PTP20 on melanin production - Effect of PTP20 on the enzymatic activity of catalase - Effect of PTP20 peptide on the enzymatic activity of SIRT1 - Effect of PTP 20 peptide on human hairs ex vivo - Effect of PTP20 lotion observed during in vivo clinical studyDOI : 10.1111/ics.12494 En ligne : https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12494 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31526
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20379 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Efficient hair protection - the multi-functional silk polypeptide as new and promising strategy against pollution / Natalie Blost in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 7-8 (07-08/2017)
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