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Hair shine : correlation instrumental and visual methods for measuring the effects of silicones / Isabelle Van Reeth in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001)
[article]
Titre : Hair shine : correlation instrumental and visual methods for measuring the effects of silicones Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Isabelle Van Reeth, Auteur ; Virginie Caprasse, Auteur ; Stephanie Postiaux, Auteur ; Michael Starch, Auteur Année de publication : 2001 Article en page(s) : p. 21-26 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Réflectance
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The attribute of hair shine is a very important, albeit elusive, quality whhich must be considered when evaluating the effects of a particular hair treatment. It is important for the cosmetic chemist to understand the effects of various hair treatments on shine because shine is strongly associated in the mind of the consumer with clean, healthy hair. Consequently, the measurement of hair shine is a critical part of performance evaluation for any raw material intended for use in hair care products. Silicone polymers are a class of raw materials that are effective for improving hair shine. Dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone, in particular, are often used for this purpose, but other types of silicones can also be effective. The selection of the best silicone for improving hair shine depends on the type of formula from which the silicone is to be delivered, so it is important to compare the effects of different silicones in the same formula.
In technical terms, hair shine is more accurately described as hair luster since it is associated with the appearance of stronglycontrasting, adjacent areas of light and dark (highlights). The light and dark areas arise from a phenomenon called specular reflectance, where the intensity of reflected light is highly dependent upon the angle between the observer and the light source. Specular reflectance is associated with smooth surfaces and this explains why it is associated with clean, healthy hair since both hair damage (surface roughness) and soiling reduce smoothness and therefore specular reflection. Several researchers have approached the problem of assessing hair shine by the use of a goniophotometer to measure reflected light intensity at various angles to a single hair fiber. This technique was used to study the relationship between luster and hair morphology, and the effects of various shampoo treatments. Other researchers have attempted to quantify hair luster using image analysis and data collected from hair tresses. Attempts to quantify hair shine in our laboratories have focused on the use of volunteers to evaluate hair tresses with the use of a "shine box". The shine box provides a means of controlling the illumination and observation conditions and is similar to a technique described by Reich and Robbins. Our shine box method was described in a 1995 publication. The shine box method has been used in our recent efforts to correlate data from human panels with objective measurements. Using a simple hand held meter to obtain gloss measuremsnts, we were able to show rough correlation between 60° gloss values and ranking scores from human panels using the shine box method.
Our work with the gloss meter showed that it was suitable for screening purposes, but it was relatively insensitive compared to the distinctions that are possible with the uman eye. Given this situation, we wished to continue the search for other objective methods. We also wished to expand our efforts to begin more close cooperation between our laboratories in Europe and the U.S. Both laboratories were using human panelists to evaluated hair shine using the shine box, but with different test designs. In the US, a ranking method was used, while a paired comparison method was used in Europe. The acquisition of an image analysis system and the establishment of half head (salon) testing capabilities provided further impetus to begin a joint project between our laboratories. Our goals were to develop better objective methods and to study the effects of various silicones on hair shine.Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10761
in IFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 4, N° 1 (01-02-03/2001) . - p. 21-26[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 004651 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends / Delvallé Cindy in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020)
[article]
Titre : Hair that's fair : new generation of silicone gum blends Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Delvallé Cindy, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Garaud, Auteur ; Lanxade Julie, Auteur ; Sabrina Marchioretto, Auteur ; Almeida Daniel, Auteur ; Tafarelo Natalia, Auteur ; Engerer Paige, Auteur ; Aliro Do Vale Isabel, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 2-7 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Cyclopentasiloxane
Gommes et résines
Produits capillaires
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : As consumers become increasingly eco-conscious, the personal care and cosmetics market is seeing a rise in demand for biobased and sustainable products. This article presents four new silicone gum blends developed by Dow that are designed to meet these demands without sacrificing performance within hair care formulas. As the market sees growing demand for products that achieve the same performance associated with silicone gum blends using alternative carriers including bio-processed materials and renewable sources, four new blends are now available, designed to meet this need and built from the same silicone gum as traditional blends using cyclopentasiloxane as a carrier. The four blends provide formulators with a new level of flexibility of variety and criteria, including volatility, manufacturing process and the sustainability profile. The blends also now offer a carrier toolbox approach built around the same dimethiconol gum. Hair care formulations created with these blends can achieve smoothness and conditioning while also reaching modern environmental standards. Combining these blends creates additional options for formulators and allows for fine-tuning for specific sets of desired formulation properties and benefits, beyond the traditional performance of silicone gum blends. Note de contenu : - Materials and methods : Sample preparation – Hair care testing - Volatility profile
- Volatility valued
- Comb comfortably : hair combing benefits
- Shine on
- Silky smooth : Hair sensory benefits
- Go for smoothness : coefficient of friction
- Look after your locks : Heat protection
- A win for skin
- Fig. 1 : New silicone gum blends overview
- Fig. 2 : Volatility profiles (32°C) of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 3 : Hair combing performance of new silicone gum blends in cmparison to cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 4 : Shine performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxanebased blend
- Fig. 5 : Sensory on hair of 2 cSt gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentzsiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 6 : Coefficient of friction performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 7 : Heat protection performance of new silicone gum blends in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend
- Fig. 8 : Sensory profle of C13-15 alkane-based silicone gum blend in comparison to a cyclopentasiloxane-based blendEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OMQhzDmMYr3IrxcUjpMDlmZbLCARmKO2/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35000
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 146, N° 12 (12/2020) . - p. 2-7[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 22459 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hamburg show has South American flavour / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014)
[article]
Titre : Hamburg show has South American flavour Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Richard Scott, Auteur Année de publication : 2014 Article en page(s) : p. 17-21 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biomolécules actives
Conservateurs (chimie)
Cosmétiques
Cosmétiques -- Tests
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits antisolaires
Produits naturels
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Note de contenu : - Skin care
- Preservation
- Naturals
- Silicones
- Testing
- Hair care
- Sun careEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qZa4hVDkYhG11xQrnijlC1VbZZme9fbN/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=20773
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 7, N° 2 (03/2014) . - p. 17-21[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 16107 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible High performing silicone microemulsion in hair care / Tow Kuam Lem in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
[article]
Titre : High performing silicone microemulsion in hair care Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tow Kuam Lem, Auteur ; Clara Gil Navarro, Auteur ; Aylin Bozoglu, Auteur Année de publication : 2018 Article en page(s) : p. 78-81 Note générale : Biliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Microémulsions
Polymères en émulsion
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologieIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Today's hair care industry is a highly competitive and segmented market place wherein formulators need to respond to a range of hair types, cultures, regions and ethnicities. A savvy youth market, emerging economies and an expanding group of sophisticated consumers need to be accommodated. To meet these requirements, the industry must continuously develop creative solutions. Specialty silicones are able to create hair care products that help to strengthen and protect hair from environmental stress, colour fade, heat associated damage and grooming effects. Elsewhere they are able to add volume, control hair frizziness and help repair split ends. Silicone plays a key role, whether in conditioners, shampoo, colourant or styling products. Note de contenu : - Individualism
- Specialty silicone for hair moisturisation
- Silicone Quaternium-17 in microemulsion
- Performance testing
- Application
- Fig. 1 : Molecular structure of silicone quaternium-17
- Fig. 2 : Ease of combing of wet & dry condition with Dia-Stron tensile tester
- Fig. 3 : Thermal protection with flat iron test
- Fig. 4 : Colour protection with silicone microemulsion
- Fig. 5 : Improve hair shininess with silicone microemulsion
- Formulation 1 : Shampoo for combing force measurement
- Formulation 2 : Conditioner for combing force measurement
- Formulation 3 : Heat protecting spray
- Formulation 4 : Shampoo for colour protection test
- Formulation 5 : Conditioner for colour protection test
- Formulation 6 : Whipped cream for hair shininess testEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hMjAxkb3f7BumPIyt5ZnNT3vKlIbZX45/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=31290
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018) . - p. 78-81[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20328 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Hydroalcoholic triglyceride emulsions investigated / Tony O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015)
[article]
Titre : Hydroalcoholic triglyceride emulsions investigated Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Tony O'Lenick, Auteur ; David Zhang, Auteur Année de publication : 2015 Article en page(s) : p. 51-53 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Alcools
Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Silicones -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Stabilisants (chimie)
TriglycéridesIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Emulsions are very important in preparation of a number of personal care formulations. Most emulsions contain a water phase and a water insoluble phase. Emulsions containing only these elements are difficult to make with the desired stability, functionality and aethetics. If one adds ethanol, a material that partitions between the water and oil phase, preparing suitable emulsions becomes much more difficult. This paper deals with a multi-stepped approach to making difficult emulsions, one type being emulsions that contain oil, water and alcohol. In the first step the proper HLB is determined experimentally, and in the second structural variables within a particular HLB are investigated. This combined approach provides very stable emulsions. Note de contenu : - GROUP OPPOSITES
- HYDROPHOBIC MATERIALS
- EMULSION TERMINOLOGY : Continuous phase - Discontinuous phase - Dispersion or emulsion
- EMULSIFIER KIT
- RESULTS : 24-HOUR STABILITY
- IMPROVING EMULSION STABITLITY
- PHOTOMICROGRAPHSEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tuRw9QOJRtV8W34eNF8tuoI5WrcLlN4O/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=24938
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 8, N° 6 (11/2015) . - p. 51-53[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 17594 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible IFSCC : Le "super " congrès fin de millénaire in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 144 (12/1998)
PermalinkIn-Cosmetics Milan Vitrine des fournisseurs in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 176 (04-05/2004)
PermalinkInfluence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing lipoic acid / L. C. Külkamp-Guerreiro in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 1 (02/2013)
PermalinkIngredient focus : silicone innovations / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
PermalinkIngredients focus : a concise look at new products in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 4, N° 3 (09/2011)
PermalinkIngredients focus : the latest silicone products / Richard Scott in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
PermalinkPermalinkInterview : Stewart Long, Dow Corning / Stewart Long in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 5 (11/2012)
PermalinkInvestigating versatility of silicones in personal care / John Castro in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 5, N° 5 (11/2012)
PermalinkPermalinkJouer avec les textures : des agents texturants aux multiples facettes / Lucile Blain in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (12/2013)
PermalinkLingettes : un segment très prometteur / Caroline Chavigny in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 175 (03/2004)
PermalinkPermalinkMQ resins in personal care applications / Rick Vrckovnik ; Tony O'Lenick in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 7, N° 6 (11/2014)
PermalinkNew silicone technologies for hair and skin / Beth Johnson in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 6, N° 5 (11/2013)
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