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The 'solidification' of liquid shampoos and conditioners / Trevor Barker in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022)
[article]
Titre : The 'solidification' of liquid shampoos and conditioners Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Trevor Barker, Auteur ; Antonia Hantschel, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 28-30 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Consommateurs -- Préférences
Cosmétiques -- Aspect de l'environnement
Cosmétiques solides
Produits après-shampooings
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : This article will first explore the challenges and limitations of currently available shampoo bar formulations. It will then offer a revolutionary technology which allows improved performance and consumer acceptance, not just for solid shampoos but also for conditioners and other liquid products, instantly dissolving powders, tablets and paper sheets. It offers the persona( care industry the opportunity to re-develop a wide range of existing cosmetic formulations into solid forms.
Shampoo bars and other solid formats are growing in popularity worldwide. The last five years have seen an exponential increase in shampoo bar launches, from around 50 in 2016 to around 700 in 2021. This trend is likely to continue apace due to the unique drivers involved.
Unlike many drivers in our industry, it is clear that sustainability is more than just another fashion trend. The issues are real, widespread and extremely well documented. Furthermore, these issues are not going to go away.
The cosmetics industry is essentially consumer-driven. The needs and wants of the consumer are paramount when developing and marketing new products. In recent years there has been a move away from what has become known as 'greenwashing' towards more ethical considerations. This is, to a large extent, due to a better informed and more environmentally aware consumer base.
The sustainability theme captures a wide range of issues from palm-related deforestation to carbon footprint. It is clear that, currently, shampoo and conditioning bars, powders and tablets offer the consumer a product that ticks a number of boxes : water reduction, reduced carbon footprint and non-plastic packaging to name just a few. They represent a shift away from traditional formulations to a more sustainable and consumer-acceptable range of products.Note de contenu : - Current technology
- New technology
- Fibre-surfactant ratio
- Testing
- Additional formats
- Further workEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LbALKrM-MykgRTOatuaiCCeYwrFHHAEV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37404
in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE > Vol. 23, N° 4 (04/2022) . - p. 28-30[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23326 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Therapeutic efficacy of anti-dandruff shampoos : A randomized clinical trial comparing products based on potentiated zinc pyrithione and zinc pyrithione/climbazole / James R. Schwartz in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 35, N° 4 (08/2013)
[article]
Titre : Therapeutic efficacy of anti-dandruff shampoos : A randomized clinical trial comparing products based on potentiated zinc pyrithione and zinc pyrithione/climbazole Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : James R. Schwartz, Auteur ; R. A. Bacon, Auteur ; R. Shah, Auteur ; H. Mizoguchi, Auteur ; A. Tosti, Auteur Année de publication : 2013 Article en page(s) : p. 381-387 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Antifongiques
Antipelliculaires
Barrière cutanée
Climbazole
Cuir chevelu -- Maladies
Cuir chevelu -- Soins et hygiène
Diffusion (physique)
Peau -- Physiologie
Pyrithione de zinc
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Objectifs : Les pellicules représentent un état chronique récurrent du cuir chevelu qui a un impact négatif sur la qualité de vie des personnes atteintes. L'utilisation régulière de shampooings anti-fongiques offre une stratégie thérapeutique éprouvée pour améliorer les symptômes les plus courants de flocons et les démangeaisons. Deux approches récentes pour accroître l'efficacité de shampooings antifongiques, soit optimisent la bio-disponibilité de la matière active, soit procèdent à l'addition d'une deuxième matière active. Notre objectif est de comparer l'efficacité thérapeutique de ces deux approches – l'optimisation de la bio-disponibilité du zinc pyrithione (ZPT) actif ou la combinaison du ZPT avec un actif secondaire.
Methodes : L'activité anti-fongique des shampooings représentant chacune de ces approches a été évaluée in vitro en utilisant une méthode standard de microbiologie. La distribution spatiale des particules ZPT dans l'infundibulum folliculaire a été évaluée in vivo en utilisant une nouvelle méthode de microscopie confocale. L'efficacité clinique a été évaluée dans un essai randomisé, en double aveugle impliquant 620 sujets masculins et féminins, à l'aide de la mesure de desquamation du cuir chevelu et du niveau d'histamine épidermique comme critères.
Resultats : La formule du shampooing avec ZPT à bio-disponibilité optimisée, nommée ‘ZPT potentialisé’ montrait un plus grand pouvoir anti-fongique que le shampooing ‘Actif Double’ contenant à la fois du ZPT et du climbazole. La formule de ‘ZPT potentialisé’ a également livré plus ZPT à l'infundibulum inférieur que le shampooing ‘Actif Double’. Un traitement de quatre semaines avec la formule de ZPT potentialisé a donné lieu à une efficacité clinique supérieure à celle du produit aux deux actifs, aux quatre points dans le temps pour les effets d'histamine et de desquamation de l'épiderme.
Conclusion : Ces résultats soulignent le rôle crucial que la formule du shampooing joue dans la réalisation de la pleine activité des matières actives. En optimisant le véhicule de déposition, l'activité antifongique améliorée et la distribution spatiale agrandie de l'actif résultent dans une plus notable amélioration des symptômes qu'un produit à deux matières actives. L'efficacité thérapeutique d'un produit basé sur une formulation complexe comme un shampooing doit être considérée dans une perspective du produit entier.Note de contenu : - METHODS : Measurement of anti-fungal activity - Measurement of infundibular delivery of zinc pyrithione in vivo - Clinical efficacy study design - Assessment of flaking severity - Assessment of histamine from scalp surface - Test products - Statistical analysis
- RESULTS : Anti-fungal activity of anti-dandruff shampoos - Infundibular delivery of ZPT - Evaluation of anti-dandruff clinical efficacyDOI : 10.1111/ics.12055 En ligne : http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/ics.12055 Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=19190
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 35, N° 4 (08/2013) . - p. 381-387[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 15415 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties / Ping Li in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024)
[article]
Titre : Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Ping Li, Auteur ; Tongtong Zhang, Auteur ; Shizhi Zhao, Auteur Année de publication : 2024 Article en page(s) : p. 106-118 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydrolysats de protéines
Pénétration capillaire
shampooings
Silicones -- Suppression ou remplacement
Transparence (optique)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : - Objective : With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated.
- Methods : The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester.
- Results : The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair.
- Conclusion : The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Materials - Characterization - Foaming performance test - Evaluation of hair grooming performance - Evaluation of hair penetration performance
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Basic formulation framework of transparent silicone-free shampoo - Non-sulphate surfactants - Hair conditioners - Thickeners - Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing protein conditioners - Morphology - Hair grooming performance - Hair penetration performance
- Table 1 : Summary of the major proteins
- Table 2 : The proportion of the compound proteins in the shampoo formulationDOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12913 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DC7FNx60wr6uWZ6YD7H0V1cMvlH3O21f/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40583
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 46, N° 1 (02/2024) . - p. 106-118[article]Unlocking sustainable innovation : How conditioning biopolymer AURIST AGC transforms hair care and body wash applications / Kashimura Takenori in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 149, N° 12 (12/2023)
[article]
Titre : Unlocking sustainable innovation : How conditioning biopolymer AURIST AGC transforms hair care and body wash applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Kashimura Takenori, Auteur ; Piera Pericu, Auteur Année de publication : 2023 Article en page(s) : p. 18-23 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Biopolymères
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hygiène
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Nettoyage
Peignage
Polymères -- Biodégradation
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : While mounting consumer and regulatory pressures due to changing climates are increasing the importance of sustainable materials and a rise in natural and/or bio-based ingredients in the marketplace, market research has consistently shown that efficacy is top of mind for consumers. Consumers who research ingredients are looking to better understand product effectiveness. Product performance will be key to repeat purchase. Bioengineered ingredients provide a solid narrative tool that can provide consumers improved product performance and a desired sustainability profile. This present article describes how AURISTâ„¢ AGC, an award-winning conditioning biopolymer enabled by IFF’s Designed Enzymatic Biopolymer (DEB) technology, can deliver conditioning and sensory modification properties to various product formats, while being bio-based and readily biodegradable. Note de contenu : - Better biopolymers through biomimicry
- AURIST AGC benefits in hair conditioning : Pre-treatment - Measurement
- AURIST AGEC mode of action in hair care
- Benefits in skin cleansing products
- Environmental profils of AURIST AGC
- Table 1 : Model shampoo formulation used for AURIST AGC hair combability tests
- Table 2 : Model formulae used to evaluate the effect of AURISTTM AGC in body wash applicationsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lngT8O_NLhaB1sdGbSHcOxHEmePMOKCu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=40543
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 149, N° 12 (12/2023) . - p. 18-23[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 24364 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance / C. Tabary in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020)
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Titre : Validation of hair type diversification for recruiting shampoo panelists without losing data relevance Type de document : document électronique Auteurs : C. Tabary, Auteur ; F. Pouradier, Auteur ; S. Belkebla, Auteur ; Ségolène Panhard, Auteur ; L. Carvalho, Auteur ; F. Vincenzi, Auteur Année de publication : 2020 Article en page(s) : p. 590-595 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Caractérisation
Cheveux -- analyse
Evaluation
Protocole d'étude
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A sensory descriptive method is used by the industries to characterize their various products under development. The sensory panelists are recruited through some general criteria suggested in International Standard Sensory Analysis – General guidelines for the selection, training and monitoring of selected assessors and expert sensory assessors but for hair product evaluation, some hair criteria should also be considered, as a major challenge lied in the difficulty to recruit panelists. Such an issue led us to find practical solutions to make this recruitment easier. Among others, one possible solution was to restrict some requirements in the characteristics of hair. This study aimed at checking if a hair type diversification on either sensitization or curliness could influence the sensory perception of shampoos, and, if so, to which extent. This study demonstrates that, for a shampoo trained panel, the evaluation is impacted by the hair curliness but is not impacted by the hair sensitization level. Note de contenu : - MATERIALS AND METHODS : Fieldwork - Panelist recruitment - Attributes - Training - Products - Evaluation protocol - Performance analysis - Multiple Factor Analysis - Confidence ellipse - Profile comparisons - Sensory mapping
- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION : Performance analysis results - Straight Hair Cell analysis - Routine analysis results - Products mapping
- Table 1 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for control cell (n = 17). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%
- Table 2 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SNat Cell (n = 31). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%
- Table 3 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for SHigh Cell (n = 35). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%
- Table 4 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CCol Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%
- Table 5 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for CNat Cell (n = 15). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability are between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%
- Table 6 : Agreement, repeatability and outliers % for straight cell (n = 83). Red when agreement and repeatability are inferior to 50%. Orange when agreement and repeatability is between 50 and 70%. Green when agreement and repeatability are superior to 70%DOI : https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12650 En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LHWUxof73Ikom-yYD1iHZKVLecSBsmmE/view?usp=shari [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=35425
in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE > Vol. 42, N° 6 (12/2020) . - p. 590-595[article]Visual methods demonstrate colour protection / Lidia Kulcsar in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 12, N° 5 (11/2018)
PermalinkVisualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape-strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy measurement / Guoqiang Chen in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 40, N° 5 (10/2018)
PermalinkWashing away the "Bad hair day" with silicone solutions / C. Fournier in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 143, N° 12 (12/2017)
PermalinkWhy solid shampoo ? What’s next for haircare ? / Agne Roke in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 5 (05/2022)
PermalinkYeast ferment extract for a healthy scalp / Philip Ludwing in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 8 (09/2022)
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