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A new generation of oil-compatible hydrated HA / Romain Reynaud in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017)
[article]
Titre : A new generation of oil-compatible hydrated HA Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Romain Reynaud, Auteur ; Amandine Scandolera, Auteur ; Céline Dinant, Auteur ; Fabrice Lefevre, Auteur ; Ophélie Bourgon, Auteur Année de publication : 2017 Article en page(s) : p. 65-67 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hyaluronique, acideL'acide hyaluronique est un type de polysaccharide (plus précisément une glycosaminoglycane) non fixé à une protéine centrale et largement réparti parmi les tissus conjonctifs, épithéliaux et nerveux animaux.
Il se trouve notamment dans l'humeur vitrée et le liquide synovial. Il est l'un des principaux composants de la matrice extracellulaire ainsi que de certaines mucoprotéines lorsqu'il est associé à une fraction protéique.
Depuis les années 1990, il est très utilisé dans divers dispositifs médicaux, médicamenteux et cosmétiques (présenté dans ce dernier cas comme "antistatique, humectant, hydratant, conditionneur cutané, anti-âge, etc."), bénéficiant d'un effet de mode grandement soutenu par une large publicité commerciale.
Contribuant de façon significative à la prolifération et à la migration des cellules, l'acide hyaluronique est aussi impliqué dans la progression de certains cancers. (Wikipedia)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Rouges à lèvresIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The extremely high hydrophilic nature of hyaluronic acid (HA) prevents its incorporation into any oil base formula. Being one of the world leaders in premium quality HA production, Givaudan Active Beauty's experts have designed a new generation of highly hydrated HA which for the very first time can be formulated in oils and powders. Produced by means of a highly sustainable manufacturing process (biofermentation), a specific molecular weight HA (<50 kDa) is incorporated into a microemulsion to create PrimalHyal Gold, which has won the global Beauty Industry Award for the Best Color Cosmetics Ingredient. This new generation of HA allows us to break the previous limits of formulation by enabling it to be used in oily formulas. PrimalHyal Gold can be defined as: The first oil-compatible hydrated HA, Bringing skin long term hydration and Derived from a sustainable process. Note de contenu : - Designing a new type of HA
- Hydration assessment in a lipstick
- Results : capture of total water in the skin
- Results : capture of free water in the skin
- Schematic showing relationship of hyaluronic acid and TEWL in skin
- Table : Detailed formulations used for the ex vivo evaluatio
- FIGURES : 1. Analysis of total water content by Raman spectroscopy - 2. Analysis of free water content by Raman spectroscopy
En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A1XXi2z7m3h6P84Q735oBmlI7G1t2-ff/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=29383
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 11, N° 5 (11/2017) . - p. 65-67[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 19976 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 19345 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature / Philippe Maréchal in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019)
[article]
Titre : A new multifunctional ingredient for formulators : bringing innovation in cosmetics through the instigation of nature Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Philippe Maréchal, Auteur ; Nathalie Loubat-Bouleuc, Auteur ; M. Villedieu, Auteur ; Fabien Merlaud, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 36-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Agents dispersants (chimie)
Cheveux -- Soins et hygiène
Cosmétiques
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Ester d'estolide
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Ingrédients cosmétiques
Lèvres -- Soins et hygiène
Matériaux filmogènes
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Polymères -- Biodégradation
Polymères -- Synthèse
Produits hydratants
shampooings
TexturantsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : The use of cosmetics is connected to soul and body; with an increasing desire for sustainability. As an answer, several types of estolides were synthetized by ingredient manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of synthesis of these intermolecular esters can be considered, depending on the raw materials.
We developed a new estolide ester, based on castor oil, engineered with as few transformations as possible, showing a great versatility in applications for cosmetic formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. The performances of this innovative polymer ingredient, dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, were screened through a sensorial panel and instruments.
Our estolide ester brings a broad range of properties as texturizing or film-forming agent, and moisturizer. It also shows interesting values as a pigment disperser. During application on hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give high protective properties from air pollution.
The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%.
Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester of estolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint.Note de contenu : - General ideas about estolides
- Estolide esters for innovation
- Versatility in applications
- Fig. 1 : General scheme for esterification following the Fisher's mechanism
- Fig. 2 : General chemical patern for an estolide : m1+m2 ⩾ 2 , n ⩾ 0, and R, a carbon chain of any type, short or long, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or not...
- Fig. 3 : Estolide formation from oleic acids
- Fig. 4 : estolide formation from 12-hydroxystearic acid
- Fig. 5 : Reaction of capping of a estolide chain, by a stearic acid
- Fig. 6 : Formation of an estolide ester through the reaction of an ethylhexyl alcohol
- Fig. 7 : DUB ESTOLINE chemical structure
- Fig. 8 : Sensory profile of DUB ESTOLINE in comparison with phytosqualane test on framework formulaat 15%, internal panel of 10, with a defined protocol application on forearm
- Fig. 9 : Measurement of the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) on the forearm of 10 volunteers with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 10 : Measurement of hydration on the stratum corneum with a corneometer after treatment with a cream containing 5% test substance
- Fig. 11 : Quantization of carbonyl residues in skin explants treated with a cream containing 5% ethylhexyl polyhydroxystearate
- Fig. 12 : Binding ability of DUB ESTOLINE, another binder containing castor oil derivatives and another ester
- Table 1 : Spectrum of application properties in cosmetics of estolides and estolide esters, reviewed in literature
- Table 2 : Composition of the framework formula used in sensory tests. Test substance : vegetable oil, phytosqualane, estolide ester
- Table 3 : Composition of the O/W model emulsion used in efficiency tests in skin care. Test substance : vegetable oil, hydrocarbon, estolide ester
- Table 4 : Composition of the shampoo used for thehair care tests. Test substance : estolide ester, dimethicone
- Table 5 : Evolution of the weights of tresses after treatments with model shampoos
- Table 6 : Composition of the foundation formulation used for compaction testsEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gzskXdzZwMMhVHalGbt2oHe9YUX1O8Ig/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32033
in SOFW JOURNAL > Vol. 145, N° 3 (03/2019) . - p. 36-44[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20809 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20688 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible 20697 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new natural and biomimetic detergent concept / Anna Maria Motta in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 13, N° 4 (06/2019)
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Titre : A new natural and biomimetic detergent concept Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Anna Maria Motta, Auteur Année de publication : 2019 Article en page(s) : p. 45-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Chimie biomimétique
Détergents
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Hydratation
Mousse (chimie)
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Perte insensible en eau
Produits hydratants
Produits nettoyants
Sébum
shampooingsIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : It is widely recognised that a toned and well moisturised skin can be maintained only if the superficial layers of the epidermis are able to fully accomplish their barrier function, protecting the deepest and delicate areas of the derma from sensitising agents and controlling permeability and transpiration of the physiological water present in the intercellular spaces. The skin barrier function is continuously exposed to aggressions. The daily use of soaps and potentially aggressive detergents can alter the hydrolipidic skin film and skin barrier integrity, reducing its impermeabilising action and favouring skin dehydration. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) constitutes one of the main indicator to evaluate skin barrier integrity. The ideal detergent must be able to effectively remove dirt, greasiness and pollutants, meanwhile respecting the lipidic and protein fractions of the horny layer and the superficial hydrolipidic film. Note de contenu : - Composition
- Efficacy : Short term study - Cleansing power - Fast moisturising power - In vivo test : long lasting moisturising and protective power - Skin sebum evaluation - Self-assessment questionnaire
- Applications
- Table 1 : Avogelia DS
- Table 2 : Technical characteristics of Avogelia DS
- Table 3 : Formulation at 2% and 5% Avogelia DS and placebo formulation
- Fig. 1 : Avogelia DS (5% in water)
- Fig. 2 : Foaming power of Avogelia DS vs SLES at 5% in watery solution
- Fig. 3A : Skin after deposition of carbon black Visioscan VC 98
- Fig. 3B : Skin after cleansing with the detergent formulatio A (2% Avogelia DS). Visioscan VC 98
- Fig. 4 : Moisturising efficacy of 2% and 5% Avogelia DS
- Fig. 5A : Hydration value
- Fig. 5B : TEWL after cleansing the skin with 2% Avogelia DS formulation
- Skin sebum content after 14 days after cleasing the skin with 2% Avogelia DS formulation. Similar results have been showed for the other testing volunteers
- Formulation 1 : Micellar mousse/09-TE-04-18
- Formulation 2 : Shampoo cosmos / 09-TE-05-18En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QB1qUQI66pbFGqPk6UK_hA7dP8d9-jJu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32646
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 13, N° 4 (06/2019) . - p. 45-48[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 20983 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new O/W peg-free emulsifier from olive oil / Sergio Amari in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE, Vol. 3, N° 1 (01/2002)
[article]
Titre : A new O/W peg-free emulsifier from olive oil Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Sergio Amari, Auteur ; Cristina Schubert, Auteur Année de publication : 2002 Article en page(s) : p. 59-61 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Emulsifiants
Emulsions -- Emploi en cosmétologie
Emulsions -- Stabilité
Formulation (Génie chimique)
Huile d'olive
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Stabilisants (chimie)Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate is a functional self-emulsifying system of the next generation which forms a liquid crystal network inside the emulsion and allows the formulation of stable emulsions. It has a pleasant silky feel, good moisturising properties and good spreadability, all due to its important origin from olive oil. The gel network stabilizes the emulsion, absorbs on the skin and reduces transepidermal water-loss without solubilizing skin proteins and lipids. Note de contenu : - The major advantages of using (cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate) liquide crystal system
- COSMETIC APPLICATIONS : The product is veryeasy to employ as the only emulsifier
- EMULSIFYING ABILITY
- COMPATIBILITY WITH THICKENING AGENTS : All these thickeners increase the emulsions' viscosity in many different ways
- CETEARYL OLIVATE/SORBITAN OLIVATE) AS AUTOEMULSIFYING SYSTEM
- SAFETY AND TOXICITY INFORMATION
- PATCH TEST
- RED BLOOD CELL TEST (OCULAR IRRITATION ALTERNATIVE TEST)Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=13515
in PERSONAL CARE EUROPE > Vol. 3, N° 1 (01/2002) . - p. 59-61[article]Réservation
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 013149 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible A new PDO for multi-functional applications / Mélanie Waeckel in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 23, N° 1 (01/2022)
[article]
Titre : A new PDO for multi-functional applications Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Mélanie Waeckel, Auteur ; Christine Mendrok-Edinger, Auteur ; Silke Adamietz, Auteur Année de publication : 2022 Article en page(s) : p. 57-59 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Analyse sensorielle
Cosmétiques -- Conservation
Dermo-cosmétologie
Microbiome cutané
Microbiote cutané
Peau -- Soins et hygiène
Produits hydratants
Propanediol
Tests cutanésIndex. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : With concerns about the environment and limited natural resources continuing to grow, particularly among the younger generations, beauty biotechnology is likely to gain in importance over the coming years. DSM has therefore launched a new cosmetic grade of 1,3-propanediol in partnership with the biochemistry company Metex Nøøvista. The product has a fully sustainable production process, and its much indemand skin microbiome friendliness and multifunctional properties have been demonstrated in the studies described in this article. Because it helps to reduce the complexity of cosmetics formulations, this PDO offers manufacturers a way to meet growing consumer demand for sustainable but high-performance personal care products that are also seen as a clean option. Note de contenu : - Increasing role for lab-grown ingredients
- Propanediol with a difference
- Impact on skin microbiota balance
- Skin moisturisation performance
- Human skin patch test
- Sensory enhancement
- Preservation efficacyEn ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MlxxRYKBSrpR1KeeCsWsMQIcAo5hqIov/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=37092
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Code-barres Cote Support Localisation Section Disponibilité 23094 - Périodique Bibliothèque principale Documentaires Disponible Next-gen moisturizer targeting the holobiont / Lauriane Imbert-Roux in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 24, N° 6 (06/2023)
PermalinkNo more skin dryness after cleansing / Volker Rosenberger in GLOBAL PERSONAL CARE, Vol. 22, N° 7 (07/2021)
PermalinkNot beauty is the key to happiness – Happiness is the key to beauty ! / Hagen Döring in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
PermalinkUn nouvel émulsionnant H/E d'origine naturelle sans effet savon / Alicia Roso in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors série (11/2011)
PermalinkA novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic grou / Rainer Voegeli in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Vol. 37, N° 6 (12/2015)
PermalinkPermalinkNuée parfumée pour le corps JB 2180/B in ADDIACTIVE, N° 63 (02-03/2008)
PermalinkLa nutricosmétique par voie topique / Eric Postaire in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° Hors-Série (12/2022)
PermalinkOffrir des alternatives aux formulateurs / Boris Segalowitch in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 28 (07-08/2014)
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PermalinkOverall renewal of lipids improves skin hydration and fragrances long lasting / Morgane de Tollenaere in SOFW JOURNAL, Vol. 146, N° 9 (09/2020)
PermalinkOxygénating Serum SC 2120 in ADDIACTIVE, N° 87 (04-05-06/2013)
PermalinkLes PADs / Rachida Nachat-Kappes in EXPRESSION COSMETIQUE, N° 47 (09-10/2017)
PermalinkPeaux sensibles, un marché prometteur / Doria Maïz in PARFUMS COSMETIQUES ACTUALITES, N° 205 (02-03/2009)
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