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Therapy makeup improves quality of life of patients with skin diseases – covering foundations created by integration of medical and beauty care for severe skin color problems / Yoshinori Sagehashi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008) . - p. 11-18 Titre : Therapy makeup improves quality of life of patients with skin diseases – covering foundations created by integration of medical and beauty care for severe skin color problems Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Yoshinori Sagehashi, Auteur ; Akira Ito, Auteur ; Tatsuya Ohtake, Auteur ; Masahiro Nakamura, Auteur ; Katsuhiko Yagi, Auteur ; Katsuki Ogawa, Auteur ; Tomoyuki Katsuyama, Auteur ; Mari Yoshida, Auteur ; Kimiko Oshiro, Auteur ; Wakae Aoki, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 11-18 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Maquillage  de  thérapie'  Vitiligo  'Qualité  vie' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : In collaboration with medical institutions, we have been providing makeup guidance to people with facial skin color problems under the name »therapy makeup«. The aim of therapy makeup is to reduce the anxiety and tension associated with the appearance of people with skin color problems and to provide psychological support, thereby helping them live more normal lives. Ota's nevus (blue birthmarks) and port-wine stain (red birthmarks) the leading causes of abnormal skin coloration. We have already developed covering foundations for Ota's nevus and port-wine stain using a light-filtering technology. Another common cause of abnormal skin coloration is vitiligo (white patches). Vitiligo cannot be adequately covered by conventional cosmetic foundations. Therefore, we developed a new covering foundation for vitiligo based on optical characteristics. Moreover, the effects of makeup on the psychology of patients with vitiligo were objectively evaluated using psychometrically established quality of life indices. It was demonstrated that makeup helped to alleviate the psychological anxiety and tension of patients, resulting in improvement of social relationships and self-esteem. The integration of medical care and beauty care enables therapy makeup to improve quality of life of patients with skin color disorders. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10384 [article]

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Small proteoglycans in the skin : new targets in the fight against skin aging / Gilles Pauly in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008) . - p. 21-29 Titre : Small proteoglycans in the skin : new targets in the fight against skin aging Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Gilles Pauly, Auteur ; Jean-Luc Contet-Audonneau, Auteur ; Philippe Moussou, Auteur ; Louis Danoux, Auteur ; Vincent Bardey, Auteur ; Olga Freis, Auteur ; Mélanie Sabadotto, Auteur ; Yanusz Wegrowski, Auteur ; François-Xavier Maquart, Auteur ; Andreas Rathjens, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 21-29 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : Glycosaminoglycanes  Protéoglycanes  Syndécane  Lumicane  Vieillissement Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Proteoglycans take an important part in tissue homeostasis. In the skin, Proteoglycans are present in the extracellular matrix of dermis, particularly with lumican which plays an important role in dermal homeostasis. In the epidermis, several small proteoglycans such as the syndecans are synthesized and play an important role in keratinocyte activation. There is much data on the alteration during skin aging of the synthesis and structure of glycosaminoglycans and some proteoglycans but little information on small proteoglycans, in particular lumican and syndecan-1. We recently observed a decrease in the synthesis of these two small proteoglycans with aging. We confirm in this work the decrease in lumican in dermis and syndecan-1 in epidermis with aging. These proteoglycans represent original important targets for cosmetology in the fight against skin aging. In different in vitro models, two synthetic acetyl tetrapeptides, AcTP1 and AcTP2, stimulate the synthesis of lumican and syndecan-1, respectively. The beneficial action of AcTP1 on skin thickness and firmness and of AcTP2 on epidermal cohesion has been confirmed in vivo. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10385 [article]

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A new water-in-powder technology : a novel structure for creating unique cosmetic products / Keiji Igarashi in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008) . - p. 31-34 Titre : A new water-in-powder technology : a novel structure for creating unique cosmetic products Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Keiji Igarashi, Auteur ; Keisuke Sagara, Auteur ; Junichiro Egawa, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 31-34 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Poudre  humide'  'Résistance  à  l'eau'  Hydrophilie  Fractale  Encapsulation  Technologie Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : A water-in-powder cosmetic is one in which a large amount of water is encapsulated in a powder. In this study we describe the development of this type of cosmetic. We first focused on the hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of the nano-sized powder surface. We looked at surface state of powders in the gas adsorption test and discovered functional powders that have an optimized balance of hydrorepellency and hydrophilicity due to fractal surface and free hydroxyl groups, respectively. Using this material we created a new powder technology that can encapsulate a large quantity of water in a stable structure. We also looked at how the powders encapsulated water by observing them with wet-SEM and how the encapsulated water is stabilized by measuring the water mobility with 17O-NMR. Based on these result, we developed a new technology with water and powder. By encapsulating a large amount of water, we achieved a cosmetic with many unique characteristics: The powder cosmetic can become a liquid by application of friction on skin, it is convenient to use and provides moist, cool feel. It also functions as an excellent makeup by spreading smoothly on skin to form a uniform makeup coating Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10386 [article]

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Coenzyme Q10 has anti-aging effects on human hair / Melanie Giesen in IFSCC MAGAZINE, Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008)

[article]  inIFSCC MAGAZINE > Vol. 11, N° 1 (01-02-03/2008) . - p. 37-42 Titre : Coenzyme Q10 has anti-aging effects on human hair Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Melanie Giesen, Auteur ; Thomas Welß, Auteur ; Erik Schulze zur Wiesche, Auteur ; Volker Scheunemann, Auteur ; Sabine Gruedl, Auteur ; Yasmin Oezkabakcioiglu, Auteur ; Elisabeth Poppe, Auteur ; Dirk Petersohn, Auteur Année de publication : 2008 Article en page(s) : p. 37-42 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Tags : 'Coenzyme  Q10'  'Follicule  de  cheveux'  Vieillissement  'Kératinocytes  externes  la  gaine  racine'  'Synthèse  kératine' Index. décimale : 668.5 Parfums et cosmétiques Résumé : Ubiquinones are the most widespread and therefore best investigated bioquinones. Due to their hydrophobic isoprenoid side chain, ubiquinones can be solubilized in organic solvents or lipids but are insoluble in water. Using a specific emulsifier system it has been possible to deliver positive effects to biological systems also from aqueous formulations. Ubiquinone-50, also referred to as coenzyme Q10, is well known in cosmetic science and especially in skin care because of its antioxidant activity. It is found in the membranes of peroxisomes, lysosomes, vesicles, the endoplasmic reticulum and notably in the inner membrane of the mitochondrion, where it is an important part of the electron transport chain. Using coenzyme Q10 in the proposed emulsifier system we could show that the molecule not only has relevance as an anti-aging bioactive in skin care but also has positive effects on the human hair follicle. The hair follicle is a complex mini organ and synthesis of hair keratin, the major component of hair fibers, is an essential prerequisite for the growth of strong and healthy hair. But like all biological systems the hair follicle, the biologically active part of the hair, also undergoes an aging process associated among other things with a decline in certain hair keratins. Due to this age-related shift in basic structural proteins of the hair shaft, mature hair often becomes fragile and difficult to manage. Therefore it is a challenge for cosmetic science to provide bioactives to fight age-related changes and maintain a youthful appearance of hair. Using cultivated hair follicle keratinocytes we identified coenzyme Q10 as a potent bioactive that stimulates the gene expression of different hair keratins, especially those which are reduced during aging processes in hair follicles. These results led us to investigate a shampoo and a tonic formulation enriched with coenzyme Q10 in a placebo-controlled panel study. In a left/right comparison a group of healthy volunteers older than 40 years of age applied the formulations daily for 4 days. Throughout the test period the gene expression of different hair keratins from plucked hair follicles was determined using quantitative polymerase chain reaction techniques. Subsequent statistical analysis revealed an increase in age-relevant hair keratins in human hair roots treated with coenzyme Q10, thus pointing out the striking benefits of coenzyme Q10 in hair care formulations. We conclude that coenzyme Q10 is an ideal ingredient for hair care formulations, providing anti-aging properties through activation of specific keratins aligned with the needs of mature hair. Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=10387 [article]

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