| Titre : |
Controlling fibrillation – experiences of the dyeing and finishing of lyocell fibres |
| Type de document : |
texte imprimé |
| Auteurs : |
Jim Taylor, Auteur |
| Année de publication : |
2015 |
| Article en page(s) : |
p. 424-433 |
| Note générale : |
Bibliogr. |
| Langues : |
Anglais (eng) |
| Catégories : |
Fibres cellulosiques
Fibres textiles synthétiques -- Finition
Fibrillation
Marketing
Production
Teinture -- Fibres textiles synthétiques
Tricot
|
| Index. décimale : |
667.3 Teinture et impression des tissus |
| Résumé : |
This review centres on the development of dyeing and finishing technologies for lyocell (TENCEL®) fibres since they were introduced onto the market in 1992. Initially, it will look at the reason for starting manufacture of the fibre and its manufacturing technology. An overview of basic dyeing performance is followed by a critical assessment of the fibre's introduction into the commercial world and the problems that ensued from its fibrillation property. The review then outlines the pioneering process development efforts made in Japan. Dye machinery manufacturers also played an important role in developing processing routes, particularly, but not exclusively, Then, Thies, and Krantz. Courtaulds Tencel formed an alliance with Sir T & A Wardles of Courtaulds Textiles, setting up a project to demonstrate successful jet processing of lyocell fabrics. Investment in jet dyeing machines and personnel was critical: the review explains how it was done and results that were achieved. It also considers how to control fabric behaviour in relation to creasing and fibrillation. The latter phenomenon held the fibre back from knitted applications. Both Courtaulds and Lenzing developed non-fibrillating versions of the fibres. This review covers these advances, as well as how new markets have been developed for the fibre, such as workwear and bed sheeting. It concludes by looking at the key market segments today and how Lenzing sees the lyocell market evolving. |
| Note de contenu : |
- The lyocell production process
- Fundamental dyeing behaviour
- Fundamental fibre properties and their influence on dyeing and finishing
- Basic process for standard TENCEL
- Processing in garment form
- The nidom development
- Piece processing on jet machines
- The Sir T & A Wardles project
- Continued development of the piece process
- The importance of woven fabric construction in wet processing
- Peirce's fabric cover factor theory
- Knitted fabric structures
- The development of non-fibrillating lyocell
- Comparison of TENCEL A100 and LF
- Lyocell is not just peach skin
- Chemical finishing is the key
- Pretreatment with NaOH
- Lyocell markets today and in the future
- Expansion of products and markets |
| DOI : |
10.1111/cote.12184 |
| En ligne : |
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/cote.12184 |
| Format de la ressource électronique : |
Pdf |
| Permalink : |
https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=25088 |
in COLORATION TECHNOLOGY > Vol. 131, N° 6 (12/2015) . - p. 424-433
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