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Lizard-look leathers from chicken-paw skins / Hafiz Rub Nawaz in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 34 Titre : Lizard-look leathers from chicken-paw skins Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Hafiz Rub Nawaz, Auteur ; Uzma Nadeem, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 34 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Conservation Cuirs et peaux de pattes de poulets Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Millions of laying chickens come to the end of their life each year. Most of these are sold for use in food products, and in particular the paws (lower leg and fee) when free of the skin are used for soap preparation. These paw skins are usually discarded as waste, and thus constitute an environmental problem. Hence an project was set up to see if it was possible to add value to this waste by creating a new and novel leather. Bulk collection of paw skins was made over a four month period from the Karachi area, and after fleshing these were preserved using three methods. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l_J0eao0Zk7kE83wcJYS76jDVNqzv0fs/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32336 [article]

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Choosing the correct base coat resin / Peter Jessop in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 37-39 Titre : Choosing the correct base coat resin Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Peter Jessop, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 37-39 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Couche de base Cuir pleine fleur Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Cuirs et peaux de moutons Cuirs et peaux de vachettes Polymères Réticulants Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Before developing a new finished leather, the tanner needs a great deal of information about the characteristics of the finished product if the leather is to match requirements completely and profitably. Getting it right first time is always a worthwhile challenge as this leads to speedy and timely delivery and the opportunity to put a new product onto the market ahead of the competition. To achieve this, the tanner needs to know how best the finished product will match customer needs, primarily through selecting the most competitively priced raw material. Having decided this, there still remain many process choices from beamhouse through to finishing. Usually there are many reference points from which existing processes may be adopted and this is the safest and easiest way to begin. Note de contenu : - MEETING THE SPECIFICATION : A white full grain shoe upper leather - Super-soft sheepskin garment leather - ESTABLISH THE BUILDING BLOCKS - PREPARATION OF THE FINISH FORMULA : Physical properties of finished leathers - Properties of polymers - A guide to cross-linkers - FUNDAMENTALS FOR SUCCESS - Fig. 1 : Typical properties required for modern finished leathers - Fig. 2 : Typical properties of polymers used for leather finishing - Fig. 3 : Guide to available cross-linkers - Panel 1 : Compacted products En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4bIUz8R_QtRTMtFDN_RERDWwOtsaOKV/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32337 [article]

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Corrected or non-correted grain ? FILK-QMA-1201 - a method to evaluate finished leather / Haiko Schulz in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 41-44 Titre : Corrected or non-correted grain ? FILK-QMA-1201 - a method to evaluate finished leather Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Haiko Schulz, Auteur ; Michael Meyer, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 41-44 Note générale : Bibliogr. Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Finition Echantillonnage Evaluation Microscopie Surfaces -- Analyse Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : A new method is described and illustrated, which enables differentiation between finished leathers that have been corrected or not. The method is very senstive, and can readily detect leathers that have only been lightly corrected, even when the leathers have been slightly snuffed. Note de contenu : - Sample preparation - Sample evaluation - Microscopic analysis of the grain - Microscopic analysis of the back-side of the finish - Microscopic analysis of the cross-section - Panel 1 : Definitions - Fig. 1a : Leather surface after complete removal of the finish layer. - Fig. 1b : Leather surface after incomplete removal of the finish layer. - Fig. 2a : Back-side of the finish layer after removal from a corrected grain leather. No fibres remaining in the finish. - Fig. 2b : Back-side of the finish layer after removal from a corrected grain leather. Fibres left sticking in the finish. - Fig. 3 : Leather surface of a full grain leather after successful removal of the finish. The arrows indicate the damage-free sickle- shaped pellicles and the fine structure. - Fig. 4 : Surface of a lightly snuffed leather after removal of the finish. Parallel cut/grind marks are a clear characteristic of correction. - Fig. 5 : Surface of a buffed leather after removal of the finish. Truncated hair openings are observed as well as grind marks. - Fig. 6 : Surface of a heavily buffed leather after removal of the finish. Hair openings disappear in a surface with a suede-like effect. - Fig. 7 : Surface of a crust leather after light abrasion with buffing paper. Fine cut/grind marks can still be clearly observed. - Fig. 8 : Back-side of a finish from a full grain leather. The mirror image of the typical grain surface is clearly observed as a result of the base coat flowing into the hair follicles. - Fig. 9 : Back-side of a finish from a leather that was slightly corrected. The cut/grind marks are clearly visible. - Fig. 10 : Back-side of a finish from a corrected grain leather. The cut/grind marks are clearly visible as well as the impression of leather fibres that remained adhering to the finish. - Fig. 11 : Back-side of a finish from a leather that was stucccoed and corrected. The leater substrate was digested by enzymatic treatment. - Fig. 12 : Cross-section of leather that was not corrected. The curvature of the hair openings is completely preserved. - Fig. 13 : Cross-section of a corrected leather. The curvature of the hair openings has been lost. They appear truncated,ending at the boundary layer in an acute angle. Base coat penetration into fibre network. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UoFYIeR41eUvEfOECWGfc0ZTIU6kuUYu/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32338 [article]

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Conflicting test methods / Markus Scherer in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 47-48 Titre : Conflicting test methods Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Markus Scherer, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 47-48 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés mécaniques Cuirs et peaux -- Propriétés physiques Déchirure (mécanique) Essais de résilience Essais dynamiques Normalisation Traction (mécanique) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : Many official test methods used within the leather industry are different to the official test methods used within the footwear sector for testing the same leather. This situation can all too easily lead to confusion and misunderstanding. It also involves added expense through the doubling of test procedures. At a time when both tanners and footwear manufacturers are under greater pressures than ever before, this makes little sense. The sooner a practical rather than theoretical approach is applied to test procedures, the better it will be for all concerned. Note de contenu : - Tensile properties - Test parameters - Tearing properties - Fig. 1 : Current physical properties & test methods - Fig. 2 : Test piece for tensile strengh EN ISO 3376 - Fig. 3 : Difference between the two test pieces - Fig. 4 : Results of the tensile tests of the leather sample - Fig. 5 : Test pieces for tearing tests - Fig. 6 : Test results of the tear tests of the leather sample En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RGTZtIorZuecgoN1EDpAVysmyAWBUkom/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32342 [article]

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Grey scale for assessing change in colour / Campbell Page in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 49 Titre : Grey scale for assessing change in colour : EN ISO 105-A02 / IUF 131 / VESLIC C 1210 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Campbell Page, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 49 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Colorimétrie Couleurs -- Stabilité Cuir teint Décoloration Gris (couleur) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This Grey Scale is for assessing changes in colour of leather in colour fastness tests, for example, wash fastness, perspiration fastness, etc. The scale consists of nine pairs of grey colour chips each representing a visual difference and contrast. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TyxwBMaydvWO3BEg5E3xg-CSxSxtLxv-/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32343 [article]

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Grey scale for assessing staining / Campbell Page in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 50 Titre : Grey scale for assessing staining : EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211 Type de document : texte imprimé Auteurs : Campbell Page, Auteur Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 50 Langues : Anglais (eng) Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of staining caused by a dyed leather in colour fastness tests. For example, the staining of wool and cotton fabrics in the wash fastness, perspiration fastness, etc. The scale consists of nine pairs of grey colour chips each representing a visual difference and contrast. En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/18gDmuMJOSUeCqcUUkb8oJeFv19-VDWzE/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32344 [article]

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Embossing and ironing in WORLD LEATHER, Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005)  

[article]  inWORLD LEATHER > Vol. 18, N° 2 (04/2005) . - p. 53-57 Titre : Embossing and ironing Type de document : texte imprimé Année de publication : 2005 Article en page(s) : p. 53-57 Langues : Anglais (eng) Catégories : Cuirs et peaux -- Appareils et matériels Embossage L’embossage est une technique qui a pour objectif de créer des formes en relief dans du papier ou un autre matériau déformable. L’embossage est la version artisanale de l’emboutissage, qui s’applique le plus souvent à de la tôle. On distingue deux types d’embossage : l’embossage à froid et l’embossage à chaud. Le premier se pratique avec un kit spécial composé principalement d’une forme dure qui permet de travailler le papier par déformation. Le second nécessite un pistolet chauffant et une poudre ad hoc. La poudre est posée sur le papier en suivant une forme prédéfinie et elle est ensuite chauffée pour lui donner son relief définitif. L’embossage se distingue du « repoussé » qui est une technique employée en orfèvrerie ou en reliure. Il se distingue aussi du « gaufrage » qui est une technique d'impression. L’embossage concerne les surfaces planes, au contraire du « repoussage » qui concerne les surfaces de révolution (par exemple : couvercle ou cache-pot en tôle) et nécessite un tour à repousser. Repassage Index. décimale : 675 Technologie du cuir et de la fourrure Résumé : The use of heated hydraulic presses to modify the surface of part-finished leather is a process dating bach over a century, to the introduction of the static platen press to produce smooth, flat surfaces or embossed patterns on the grain surface. These machines have had extraordinarily long working lives, and are frequently modernised with updated and safety interlocks; indded,it is not uncommon for the press to be older than the operators who are feeding it! In essence, the plate press consists of frame carrying one or two massive hydraulic rams which press the leather against a heated static platen, which can be smooth, shot-blasted or embossed. The earliest machines had cast frames in 'G' or 'O' configuration. The 'G' press had the advantage of operator access to three sides of the platen, but was limited in the pressure that could be evenly applied, and prone to cracking in the frame. The 'O' press, though a little less flexible in use, could apply greater and more even pressure, and it is this configuration is that still under manufacture today. The modern platen press will probably have a fabricated steel frame, with a single hydraulic ram in its base carrying the work table on which the leather is placed. The table is covered with a felt pad, which compensates for any thickness variation in the leather as it pressed against the platen, and this in turn may be covered with a thin sheet of plastic material to aid sliding the leather in and out. The platen is clamped to an electrically-heated plate fixed at the top of the frame, and may be up to 1600 x 1700 mm in the largest units. The hydraulic pump and oil tank are fixed to the side of the press frame. The ram will normally incorporate internally a small-bore 'pilot' ram to lift the work table rapidly into contact with the platen, when the full-bore pressure of the ram is applied - this reduce the cycle time of each operation. A total force of up to 2,800 tonnes can be applied by the largest presses over the surface of the platen. Interlocked guards are incorporated, so that the table cannot move until the work area is completely fenced off. Note de contenu : - Two man operation - Fig. 1 : Early turned 'G' frame platen press with belt driven hydraulic pump - Fig. 2 : Modern 'O' frame platen press - Fig. 3 : Early reciprocating roller press clearly showing the basic design - Fig. 4 : Modern reciprocating roller press for whole hides - Fig. 5 : Operator removing hide from rear of a throughfeed ironing machine - Fig. 6 : Throughfeed ironing & embossing machine for whole hides, with lifting and storage gantry for rollers, and dust suction for felt conveyor - Fig. 7 : Work rollers on storage gantry, showing swivel connections for heating oil - Fig. 8 : Whole hide ironing and embossing machine with multi-roller turret - Fig. 9 : Outfeed of multi-roller machine, with detach roller in raised position En ligne : https://drive.google.com/file/d/11EHSMJpozpoaDN9bt5WhrmPmmuhZP8u_/view?usp=drive [...] Format de la ressource électronique : Pdf Permalink : https://e-campus.itech.fr/pmb/opac_css/index.php?lvl=notice_display&id=32345 [article]

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